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Got some pics of some terrain I painted up over the past few months which were still accessible. A good chunk of my collection is currently packed away so just some pieces that I'd left around and snuck into the various christmas stuff around the house. Warlord/Italiari Stone Bridge A rather nice kit that is somewhat irritating to get together correctly with the various parts that need to slot together...just 6 pieces, 2 each of 3 different parts (Sides, and two parts for the top and underside of the bridge). The ridge in the center of the tops of the sides is one that is a pain to get any of gone, but at the same time, if you do, you end up removing all of the detail that makes it look like stonework. The detail on the top and bottom of the bridge is also shallow and rather difficult to do much with for drybrushes unlike the sides of the bridge. It's still a nice looking kit with rather minimal issues and most minis stand just fine on it at any point. Tabletop Workshop Dark Ages Chapel Another good kit, though I think that there were issues with the one I got. It has a sculpted interior that I wanted to set the kit up so that I could access it...but the inside was poorly cast with large areas that would have required extensive work compared to ones I've seen in various YouTube videos over the years. It's also one that I couldn't find anyone selling it in the US and needed to pay a decent chunk more for shipping from the UK...I'd love to get their other kits, but they're not worth the cost and international shipping for them. Alicorn Statue I'd found a decently scaled unicorn/pegasus toy at Dollar Tree a few months ago, sold in 2 packs with one that was the right size to repaint for use as a mini and a giant one. I just found a cheap wooden plaque in the same store for the larger one to use as a statue. I have two more that I need to grab a base for because they aren't restocking the oval ones and the others would work well for a paired one. I've been using the smaller ones as part of a Dragon Rampant force. The mini included for scale is Human Druid, Asandris who is painted to work with that force which is composed of, mainly, Anhurians...most of which are put away due to not yet having everything back in place after replacing carpets. Statue of Man-At-Arms Another Dollar Tree thing with their He-Man toys, just a bit to large to fit in with the majority of my stuff, so I shaved off the more techno bits from his gear and painted him as a statue, gluing him to a wooden disc from the craft store with a bit of painted card as a plaque on it. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a very clear pic of the front, camera just wouldn't focus right. Sacred/Memorial Stone Just a quick terrain piece that I put together when I needed a rune stone or similar immobile piece for a couple scenarios. It's, mainly, foam that's been heavily textured and coated with plaster while being attached to the 2" Nolzur's bases. While I loathe those bases for minis, I've found that they work great for smaller scatter pieces that don't need to be moved around the table that often. Barrels A rather quick paint and base of some craft store wooden barrels, again on a 2" Nolzur's base. I needed something to mark for a supplies objective in a game and just tossed it together when I needed it. I'm probably going to be making a few more similar ones. Rustic Cabin This is completely scratch built save for the shield which came from a Fireforge Games: Foot Sergeants kit (Same as the shield on the Sacred Stone). I started out making this following the tutorial from Mr Waaagh Media on YouTube's channel with a few changes to fit most of my minis, then decided to upgrade the design with wood and add a fireplace...which led to making a removable roof and playable interior. The tutorials on the channel are decent, but aimed more for beginners and I tend to see a lot of them and things to heavily upgrade them into things that look a lot more a part of the table. The Old Promontory Garden Ruin This started with the structure on top as something from Dollar Tree, it was, originally, just a brightly colored lantern, but the shape reminded me of the old garden aviaries, so I removed the light and started building up from the base to create something that would look like it fit and in the old, abandoned feel for it while retaining some playability and something that would work well as a piece to display some minis on at home. It also pushed me to experiment with other options for larger rockwork as this was, started and largely built last year during the major lockdowns and I ran out of the thicker foam that I would have turned to for it, and used layers of foamboard from Dollar Tree for it. Largely shaping it after assembling the general form and adding a lot of texture work to try for rock striations with patching compound and small stones worked into it to add more to it as I went. I think it ended up working extremely well and I'm considering other formations and structures that might work as an addition to this since I have another of the lanterns that I haven't done anything with yet. Marsh/Swamp And two large terrain pieces that I put together relatively recently. They're designed that I can hide a bit of the edges of the two with the bridge from earlier as part of a setup in a few ways for a bridge across a swampy/marshy area or be used on their own or individually in parts of a board. I started with a large, but rather thin plywood circle from the craft store, then I used the card from a larger box of soft drink cans that I cut to form the basis of the drier areas, then I worked in larger stones and patching compound to smooth things out, worked a few dried and sterilized twigs and some different sands glued over it before painting it up. The lilypads are made by taking a 3x5 card, painting it up with a mix of different greens, letting it dry and going to town with a hole punch before using scissors to cut a notch in them and putting them ontop of the polyeurethane gloss that I used for the water with a tiny bit more gloss ontop of them. I still have a pile of them put away for later use from the card.
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I've made a start on a new piece of scenery, a foot bridge crossing a narrow stretch of river. The tile is sized to fit with my other river pieces, but I'd like it to be an attractive little standalone model in its own right. We shall see. The bridge is one that I 3d-printed from a model I found on Thingiverse; I thought it was bigger when I started printing it, but it will do OK as a foot bridge — its total length is about 70mm. The base is 3mm MDF, sealed with black spray primer. The rock formations are DAS air-drying clay, press-moulded into Woodland Scenics rubber rock moulds, and the rest of the groundwork is SculptaMold plaster/paper goop. The steps and flagstones are just pressed and scribed into that once it had firmed up but not actually set hard.
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I was tasked with painting up a little ceramic puppy statue- but I couldn’t help but think it looked like Barong. Especially the way he is portrayed in the Persona games. So, that’s the direction I took him in. The basing is all my construction (it is based on images of Balinese bridges). Anyway, here he is:
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These are a couple of little bridge kits from the prepainted Renaissance Miniatures East Asian line. I put them together as part of a terrain bundle for my husband's birthday. I think of them as the sort of thing that would show up in a zen garden. Putting the slats on was a little fiddly because they sort of held the whole thing together at first. I needed to glue down a couple of steps at each end, then wait and glue the rest later. These are Hasslefree figures and a little Breyer horse for scale.
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For my birthday earlier this month my husband gave me various terrain pieces, including these resin pieces from Novus Design Studio. They are: 1019 - 28mm Fantasy Bridge; 1052 - 28mm Artillery Position; 1015 - 28mm Fantasy Wall Set; and 1079 - 15mm Stalingrad Red October Factory Ruin, or as I have been thinking of them: the bridge, the cul-de-sac, the walls, and the really cool even if it is a little small abandoned factory. I've never worked with resin before, and this has had something of a learning curve even for the priming. I scrubbed these things well with warm water and dish liquid, but wow, do they repel paint in parts. At first I mixed the paint with a little flow release, but that didn't work out too well. It still beaded up and the dried paint film was soft and susceptible to being picked up by a wet brush, suggesting a weak paint film later on. This is how they looked after a single coat of primer: The walls were mostly okay, with at least one wall having a ferociously paint-resistant top, even after double scrubbing with hot water and strong dish soap. Not even rubbing alcohol could break the beading and surface tension. So I switched tactics. I decided to mix my paint with a medium I have used previously when painting fiberglass sculpture, GAC 200 from Golden Paints which improves adhesion and reduces tack when dry. This is why I blinked when I first saw Reaper paints: The other thing I would do is keep a hair dryer blowing on the paint to dry it fast before it had a chance to bead up. This necessitated the sacrifice of a couple of brushes because they had to be used under warm blowing air. It also required a certain amount of juggling hands. But it seems to have worked, and the paint film is much stronger. This is how the pieces looked after the second coat of primer: And the third coat of primer. I had to stop using the camera's flash because they looked so white they only had a silhouette of the shape. In real life they do not look quite this opaque white: The factory I did last. It looks really cool, but all the detail is at the moment washed out by the white primer. I didn't remove all the flash and I think the hexagonal spaces in the ceiling supports were supposed to be cut out, but there's only so much work I have the spoons for in prep.
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Attempted to make two playing spaces of terrain in two nights for an Infinity tournament at my FLGS. While its not finished by any means I thought I'd share some pictures. To avoid a mile long post, you can find a blow by blow over at my blog. As the great MonkeySloth says, the first step is planning. Went back to my drafting class and made a scale layout. IMG_1843 by LittleRukh, on Flickr Base is 48x48x1/4" plywood. Foam is 1/8" "fan fold" insulation. IMG_1846 by LittleRukh, on Flickr Tunnels in place, starting on side one of the stream. IMG_1849 by LittleRukh, on Flickr At this point it was 3am, good enough for a quick base coat. IMG_1868 by LittleRukh, on Flickr Got out my best brush for this. IMG_1870 by LittleRukh, on Flickr As the FLGS played it. photo (42) by LittleRukh, on Flickr I eventually plan on adding a building to the flat spot on the lower right. The water will get some large rocks for cover. The bridge will get an asphalt road. The hills will get some pipe and other bits of construction stuff. I'm sure some shrubbery will be involved too.
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Now accepting suggestions for a better name. Attempted to make two playing spaces of terrain in two nights for an Infinity tournament at my FLGS. While its not finished by any means I thought I'd share some pictures. To avoid a mile long post, you can find a blow by blow over at my blog. Company I work for sells valves for water distribution. They come anywhere from smaller than 1" to larger than 48". A recent batch came in with 1/8" Masonite for protective covers. IMG_1856 by LittleRukh, on Flickr Made some bridges with notches in them so they would secure to the platforms. IMG_1858 by LittleRukh, on Flickr Had some heavy duty cardboard tubes laying around so I made legs to give the appearance of floating/high elevation. IMG_1860 by LittleRukh, on Flickr How I envisioned a partial layout. IMG_1861 by LittleRukh, on Flickr This is what happens when you hand over terrain without instructions. photo (40) by LittleRukh, on Flickr Oh well, they had fun. I hadn't started painting it so no harm done. Right now my plan is to do the underside and legs Chrome. The surface is textured so it will get grey with black wash. I may do some details but my free hand isn't very good.