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77451 77153 77449 77450 Thief : Blue Ink base + black ink to show details (least happy) Cleric : angelic ghost or spiritual weapon spell. Yellow ink + TMM Ranger: painted by minispawn. ill take it. Makes a great ghost Wizard: nulin Oil + higlights of green ink (fav) Fighter: I only painted the base. (represents an invisible PC pretty well.) I should talk to @Doug Sundseth about this again, since he is teaching a class on it, probably today. Not sure im happy with the set.

I saw these clear plastic Animals at Target today, and I thought I’d pass along the find thinking somebody might be able to use them for some kind of spell effect or magic animal. There were two sets at my store: a dinosaur and a safari. They were $3 each, and located in the under $5 area at the front of the store. The scale varied widely from animal to animal. Some appeared to fit with 28mm figures.

I'm getting ready to paint my Kyphryxis Dragon in the Translucent Bones, and wanted to test how the different colors of the Tamiya Clears looked on the Bones translucent material. So I picked up some of the 77306 Translucent Slimes. These are literally quick paints - I just slopped on the Tamiya Clear on each one. I'm posting them here not to show off, but for your convenience and reference. Warning - Pic heavy First off, a plain, untouched translucent Bones slime: The Tamiya Clear Gloss really makes the Slime translucent: The effect is much more noticeable when you see them side by side: Next, painted in Tamiya Clear Yellow: Next in Tamiya Clear Blue: Tamiya Clear Green: Tamiya Clear Smoke: Tamiya Clear Red: Tamiya Clear Orange: And finally, my actual test piece, which I'm calling a "Fire Slime". I will probably be using a similar scheme for my Kyphrixis: As you can see, the Tamiya Clears are really good at literally changing the color of the translucent Bones material, while maintaining the translucency. At some point, i think I'm going to try and pick up multiples of some of the other translucent colors, and do similar test pieces. I already know from the fire elementals that it will change the tones of the red/orange Bones.

This one is cool, IMO. Ever wished that Shadow Demon came in a different color than Purple? Once again, presenting my experiments with translucent Bones and Tamiya Clears. Warning Pic Heavy First off, an untouched Shadow Demon: With Tamiya Clear Gloss: Untouched next to the one with the clear gloss: Tamiya Clear Red: Tamiya Clear Orange: Tamiya Clear Yellow: Tamiya Clear Green: Tamiya Clear Blue: Tamiya Clear Smoke: All of them, in all their glory: As you can see, the Tamiya clears can actually change the color while maintaining the translucency on the smaller and thinner parts. The only one that doesn't do this to the same degree as the others is the Smoke. Hope people find this useful.

So I see a lot of people painting the translucent mini's like the slimes and grave wraith with Tamiya clear colors, but I do not want to have a second setup for their paint formulation, so I am wondering if the Reaper Clears (like 9099 clear purple) give the same effect? Would be nice to just go straight to the color instead of having to throw down a clear coat and then doing a wash onto the translucent mini's (like how I did my grave wraith). Any help or suggestions is appreciated.

I've been thinking about doing this for awhile - painting up one of the clear "invisible" adventurers in Bones III as a translucent figure. The obvious choice was 77449 - Invisible Rogue, as my delightful wife painted the matching 77035 - Visible Deladrin some time ago. I painted the figure using a thinned Tamiya Clear Blue X-23 (thinned with Tamiya Thinner X-20). This produced a very light blue tint to the figure while at the same time introducing some definition. I also hit points where I wanted extra definition, mainly the face and weapon transition points, with unthinned Tamiya Clear Blue. The broccoli is basically Reaper Peacock Green worked up through Reaper Clear Green to Reaper Clear Yellow. The bottom of the base has been painted Reaper Pure Black. Important Note: Tamiya Clear paints are significantly different from Reaper Clear Paints. Tamiya Clear are translucent, Reaper Clear are not. Issues - there's a big one in that because of the black I painted the bottom of the base, the boots of the translucent figure are significantly darker than the rest of the figure. It almost reads right, but I'd have been better off doing the first coat on the bottom a green or maybe a white so they looked like they were clear going onto the grass of the base. It's something I'll consider later, although could largely be ignored if you rebased the figure. But on the whole I think this came out pretty good, accidental scimitar that we never noticed originally on Deladrin and all. There's one additional issue that I didn't spot till after I posted this - a Virtual Chocolate Fish™ to anyone who can tell the class what that very delibrate mistake was for our educational porpoises.

Today, I have a bit of time. Not enough to really paint, but enough to do something that may be useful to me AND to other forum-ites. A week or so ago I bought those Badger Freak Flex translucent paints. I already had a bunch (but not all of) the Reaper Clear paints, and a few liquitex acrylic artist inks. I'm going to do a comparison on some paper. I think straight up, and then below 1:1 with matte medium In all I think it's about 20 colours, and I'll try to keep stuff clearly defined by brand and color. I suppose doing this over something like newsprint would be better, but I don't have any handy. Hopefully I'll be posting results later. If not, in the next few days. I'll update later with a full list of the colors I'm using, but in the meantime, if you have requests/suggestions within reason... please post them below.

So I've gotten into OSL and I wanted to find some MUCH brighter paints and I've always wanted them. So what do you guys prefer? Any recommendation? My search has only included those from Reaper: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Bright

I finished painting this beastie back in June, but I hadn't gotten around to taking pictures until now. The clear purple makes for really neat effects.

In my order of clears, I had the cube! I sculpted the flagstones with some greenstuff and a toothpick, and conveniently my cube is a snug enough fit on the inside bit that it'll stand quite comfortably on the base without slipping off. I wanted to get it seperable so that I could use it to eat other minis =] I did make a bit of a mess of painting the inner piece, because I just couldn't figure it out well enough ^^; but it's going to be fairly rarely seen, so I don't mind too much. I used Tamiya's Green and Yellow clears, and an assortment of Citadel for the solid bits... Screaming Skull, White Scar, Fenrisian Grey, Steel Legion Drab, and another blue and red that I can't currently remember. The flagstones are painted with Standard Mechanicus Grey, Dawnstone, and Agrax Earthshade. I also used Tamiya's Shadow clear to add some extra depth. I was really surprised by how big the cube actually was ultimately, I had to order new bases for it to fit on xD

So in my last Reaper order I ordered some big shiny stuff for other people, but for myself, I ordered a few translucent Bones, as I've had my eye on them for a long elf time. As I have the translucent dragon from Bones 3 eventually making its way to me, I decided to get some practice in too. So there was a thread around at one point about using Tamiya Clears on the translucent Bones minis, so I launched into painting mine with a similar approach =] I also got fed up with my SLR and its hatred of shooting indoors, so woke up its inbuilt flash and cobbled together the world's most slapdash flash diffuser, and was ultimately kinda pleased with the results. Annoyingly, a lot of photos are underexposed because they look fine on my camera, but the screen on that is weirdly bright and everything tends to be dark as all hell when moved onto my laptop. It is possible my laptop screen is funky, so I do apologise if the following image is now hugely overbright *facepalm* He's painted with Red and Shadow Tamiya clears, and then drybrushed very lightly with Citadel's Genestealer Purple, Khorne Red, and Evil Sunz Scarlet. His eyes are Evil Sunz =] I'm actually really quite proud of how he's come out.

My first completed BONES 2 mini, the Gelatinous Cube! As always, C&C welcome!

Just started with my clear stands. I bought 1cm clear tubes with 6mm holes. Also bought 6mm clear rods, but they were 6,2mm, so I had a lot of work to get them to fit in the holes. The next rods will be more clear as this one. In the moment I can put one saucer on 5 Deadzone height level. I still need to make a base (or use the original one) and get magnets so the saucer on the top can be removed easily. - Only difference to this picture I made it that I glued a rod filling most of the tube, showing out of the top. In the bottom I can connect other parts. - The first tube under the saucer is smaller than the others, together with the saucer height (incl. Dome), it reach 3 inch. - all the other tubes are 3 inch tall.

My FLGS is out of Reaper Clears, and I can't justify a direct order at the moment (though in future I might if it takes too long to restock). I do have a few (yellow, blue, magenta), and a few liquitex artists inks. What I don't have is an actual transparent red (the liquitex is opaque). I don't know anywhere local that sells Tamiya clears, so I'm wondering what else people like to use. I almost got the Army Painter inks, but they mention being resin based? and that made me a little leery of the compatibility with my other acrylic based stuff. I also saw some P3 inks available, but haven't been able to determine their transparency from searching online. The store also carries Vallejo inks, but they don't have a ton in stock. I thought I'd turn to the ever knowledgeable community for some advice and opinions. So... what do people like to use for transparent colors? and for the artists...what are your thoughts with transparent artists paints? how well do they glaze?

http://www.wowminisdb.com/Sarmoth.htm Working on some ultracheap prepainted minis for practice with LED lighting before I try working with my Translucent Bonestm. 5mm blue LED taped to two AG3 392 batteries, all contained in the mini. The internal pillar of light happened because over drilling to near the top of the mini. I like the light coming from the core, rather than the upper body, even if it makes the mini look like a possessed nuclear fuel rod. Also did a Crashing Wave Spirit.