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I have had this dragon "mini" for a while but couldn't decide on a color. I don't have a lot of green miniatures so it's now green.

For your consideration, I present Kallaguk, Troll King. This model was painted as part of a theme back in March 2020 where green needed to be the primary color for a Twitch streamer I follow. I had a lot of fun with this one trying my best to only use various shades of green. Happy with its result. C&C welcome.

Started this as a PC but the game went nowhere so he sat on my desk for quite some time. finally got around to finishing him and thought i would share. He's quite well detailed and has a lot of character I might get another one to try in a different color but that will be another day. Hope you enjoy him

Picked up this fellow as part of the recent Realm of the Dragon Kickstarter project. He is on a 40mm base, barely, and is a pretty good size. Did a simple tabletop paint job, a couple of layers of color and washes. Very happy with him given how easy he was to paint.

Painted to match my Warhammer Vampire army, using old Citadel Foundation paints and a lot of Agrax Earthshade wash

Painted this for the Lost Mines of Phandelver module that I am running. Venomfang will be reoccuring throughout their adventures. I painted this faster than usual, but would not call it speed pained because it still took me about a month. I put a bit more into it than my usual speed paints, but a little less than others. It is always hard from me to take pics of larger models, probably should have taken this one outside, may have benefited from the background trees and grass more than most other models.

I have no idea what this little guy is supposed to be, but he's easily the smallest mini I've painted. Lots of Army Painter Jungle Green, Vallejo Transparent Yellow, Army Painter Green Wash and a bit of white. The base is made from Liquitex Modelling Paste, which is surprisingly easy to use. Of course I stupidly did the base the day after I painted the mini, so hilarity ensued when I had to match the paints again.

This is the Reaper Bones 77371 Basilisk sculpted by Julie Guthrie. It's quite small - about the size of a large dog, with a wonderfully grouchy visage. I painted it up fairly quickly to illustrate a video about how yellow and black can be mixed to make greens. This was an example of the less vivid greens (For a really vivid yellow-and-black green, see my She-Hulk Show-Off thread). All the colors on the critter were mixed just from yellow (mostly Yellow Ochre, but also a little Hansa Yellow), black, and white. The video is here, if anyone cares to watch it.

This is Reaper's magnificent 50212 "Incredible Woman," sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. She's a great figure that can be painted up like a lot of (tall - she's a big one) women superheroes. Wonder Woman is on my wish list, and maybe Captain Marvel one day. This version is Marvel's She-Hulk from her classic days as one of the Fantastic Four, replacing Ben Grimm for a time. As a materials and techniques note, I didn't use any green or blue pigments in her skin. It's all mixed from yellow and black. This was partly to prove a point and is kind of central in the art video I posted on YouTube last week: Yellow and Black Make Green. Enjoy!

Hey there, here's some of my Almirthil CAV's from the 7th CAV Guards "Never Fail" Regiment. With Almirthil have some "Soviet" trappings, I ran with it and used an olive-y green for my units similar to Soviet armor from the Cold War period! All logos and the bear mural are hand painted (the squiggle lines are numbers for the faction!) Concussion CAV (Fire Support) Bear(s) CAV (fire support) Growler CAV (recon) Rhino CAV (Ritterlich CAV sent to the Almirthil on a "Lend Lease" Policy) Tiamet CAV (Fire Support) (Ritterlich CAV sent to the Almirthil on a "Lend Lease" Policy)

Greetings! I really like this Lizardman sculpt - he's equipped for many battle types, he was a joy to paint. Thanks for looking!!

Please help guys, I should be done with this guy by now but I just need the purple to POP, I think. Maybe something else needs doing?

With my bride away on a work trip this week, I decided to try to squeeze in a kinda big project... and after dithering about what it should be, I settled on painting one of my many Bones dragons. Blightfang was actually a main antagonist in a D&D campaign I ran a while back... so that's the one I decided to paint! Tonight was spent scrubbing him down, after he'd spent the day soaking in soapy water. I partly glued him together, and then got painting with Green Liner. I'm only partly assembling him, so that I can more easily access the harder to reach spots. Also the back legs don't fit well into the base he came with, so I'm thinking that I might need to make my own out of cork... And this was supposed to be a quick project... we'll see how I do.

Hopefully the first of many, this was an experiment in color - in this case, green. And while his wide stance was a problem at first, I made it work. Karahl Farstep: Hood and cloak are both a mix of Brilliant Green and Linen White, 3:1 for the darker areas and 1:2 everywhere else. The cloak is shadowed with purple (thanks, @Cyradis!), and I think it came out pretty nicely in front. Had to redo the back due to becoming shadow happy. For the light greens I was hoping to achieve something close to mint green, but it came out a lot more washed out and boring than hoped. So I freehanded borders around those parts with some Palomino Gold. Not daring enough to do anything fancier than that yet, but I think it makes a positive difference. Comments and critiques welcome, I’d like to know what works or doesn’t, and what to try and do better next time.

(apologies for large sections of text- I like trying to explain what I'm thinking as I'm going, but I promise it will have lots of pictures!) Right, so I need to get started on a few new projects and one of the things folks expressed an interest in after reapercon was busts. I went and bought this bust: …planning to see if I could use it for a class. And when it came, I realized it was a bit larger than I expected, even with the description. Also, the mold removal didn’t seem to go very well for the sender, so I wasn’t as happy with it as I might have been. However, I got to thinking I could use it for a WIP at least, and that that might be more helpful to start with anyway. I still might do a class, but the bust called to me and I had an idea and it ate away at my resolve… so here it is. The plan is to make her into Mother Nature. Originally I’d planned to do a bunch of the sculpting first, but I felt like painting. I’ll get the face mostly done, then do the sculpting and finish painting. She’ll have a tree growing out of her shoulder, a bunch of leaves and flowers in her hair and probably some other natural and unnatural things to make the whole a more interesting story. I may attach a few animal companions as well. Right. When I decided on the theme, I knew I’d need green skin. One important thing to think about when it comes to skin is that our brains are hardwired to recognize varying shades of tan, ocher, rust, etc as skinlike. The more saturated and intense the color, the less we believe its skin. So no matter what color I want the skin to look like, I need to chose a softer more desaturated color. Green yes, but it has to be a nice quiet and pleasant green. I went to my stash of greens, took a few deep breaths and asked myself why I had so many greens, and proceeded to pick the warmest ones. I played around with a few of them on paper. I find when working with colors I haven’t before, if I make a few washes on watercolor paper, I can see how they thin, how transparent they are and how they play with each other. See how the pthalo looks cooler compared especially to the viper green? I wanted to compare and knew that one was cool. I can tolerate the peacock even though its on the cooler side comparatively, You can see here the ones I was looking at. I ended up going with these: I added the fair skin mainly because it adds more warmth to the whole. Alone, the green will end up looking too weird, but adding a touch of flesh makes a difference- I'll explain with pics in a bit. The peacock green is still fairly cool. I couldn't find a really warm dark green. But I can glaze the viper over it in places to warm it up. Next, I slathered some paint on the bust to get a sense of how the colors look. Two things. I must decide early on where my light source will be. For a bust, this is probably even more important than a smaller mini, because there’s so much surface area to work with. I have to add enough interest to keep my viewer’s eye moving. Since the bust is looking down and to the viewer’s right, I’ll make the light source come from the top left. Second thing, I need a model to help me place all of my highlights and shadows appropriately on the face. You know how the phone/digital camera has that cool “face recognition” thing these days? (…showing my age…) We people have the same thing. When we look at a face we expect to see certain familiar features. At 28 mm scale, there’s not much space to work in, but at the bust scale, if I don’t paint the highlights and shadows in a familiar fashion, it’ll look weird. What's with the Picasso? Ah hah! The face is made up of a bunch of planes and mounds and shapes that flow in to each other. When we’re babies, the division between the shapes is less defined. Our baby fat fills in all the gaps. As we age, we can start to see the skeleton behind the flesh. When painting a bust, I make a choice (often based on the sculpture itself) about how old or young I want the figure to be. In this case, I’d like mother nature to have fairly smooth features, but maybe a few lines to make her matronly. I’ll get to that. But whenever you choose to paint a bust, think about things like that ahead of time and it will make the process smoother. Cubism among many other things breaks down the human into basic geometric shapes. Learning what those shapes are will help you build up a basic volume in each area. Once you have an idea where each of the highlights go in each basic shape, the rest is all blending. But if the bulges don't match the anatomy, it will seem off. If that makes sense. This was a hard concept for me to pick up at first. Ok, I generally choose a model for my bust. In this case, I chose Scarlett Johansson. She has lovely clear skin. Now, using her, I can see in great detail with a larger blown-up pic where highlights tend to live and where shadows tend to fall. See how her cheek are sort of square or maybe triangular? The forehead and chin are circles? I grab a variety of pics from hollywood, because I can zoom in and see where all the little fiddly bits go around the eye and whatnot. Having a high resolution photo is helpful as a map to follow. here's me debating gaze direction. and playing with the eye. I've sketched in the basic parts. I did some blending and smoothing. I put this one in to show the way the bust sits on the table. So the direction of gaze makes a bit more sense in context. It's hard to make eyes look directly ahead and make them match up, especially with this sculpt because one eye is sculpted larger than the other. It's a lot easier to have an off center gaze. I promise to come back to the eyes, but when I first start, I bounce around and let things dry while working on other areas. So it progresses more quickly. I did some smoothing on the skin and cleaned up the eyes, chose where I wanted a few more highlights on the cheeks. Worked on the lips. See how the top lip is dark and the bottom lighter? That has to do with the anatomy of the face. the bottom one bulges out and the top slants back and doesn't catch the light. Also, just to give you a sense of scale, here's another bust and sir forescale: She's ginormous. So, it stands to reason I have to put more detail into her features and work harder on the blending to make it smooth. That is one of the tricks with larger minis. You have to blend the heck out of it or it won't look like skin. Ok, it did more work on the eyes. I should explain eyes at this point... My trust internet model! Take a look at the eye and see where all of the highlights a shadows fall. This is based on the anatomy underneath. The eye is a big oblong ball-like shape. The lids cover this, which means they bulge out towards us. Generally, that means they catch light at their outermost part, and are shaded below. Take a look at the corner on the left of the eye. That’s the tear duct. Adding that to a bust really adds a sense of realism to the painting. Adding the lashes and the iris lines will tuck in little details to make it more like a real eye. The sclera (white) of the eye is actually a more blueish in color, though in someone with liver issues it can look yellowish. I save pure white for the reflection so it’s the brightest spot and can still be differentiated from the scelera. Pure white in the sclera means we won’t get the full impact of the highlight and also pure white is colder. see the palette here: the two whites near the middle are linen and pure I’m using linen because it has a hint of yellow in it and I want the skin to live on the warmer side. Also, see how the highlight on the eye isn’t directly over the pupil, but more over the iris? The eyes is constantly wet with our tear ducts, so it should always look shiny- that highlight spot helps sell the wet effect, just like light on a wet road or a metal sword edge ok- must work. more soon! I'll probably edit this post and add a bunch more explanation and details, I just want to post in case the computer tries to eat it!

For some reason, I paint very few dragon figures (even tho they are fantasy). My wife found this figure and loved it; so I painted it for her. It is her pride & joy.

Alright, he's done! This little guy is a gift for my computer repairing friend, who has dealt with my computer for far too long. He's an uber nerd. I tried my hand at NMM again on the pistol. This time I didn't quite go all the way to black, sortof. I used a super pale blue-gray, then washed with black, and highlighted with ghost white. There is a wee blue part on the back of the pistol - those are my friend's initials. The figure in the store page that's painted has the hands as just hands, but I saw extra wrinkles and decided to make the hands gloved instead. Would have been too much of a pain to file them down to hands, I think. Impression I was going for with the outfit was sweater, jeans, gray coat, black gloves and boots. I considered putting 5318008 on the calculator, but my brushes complained about that, so I went with pi. Still working out the photography aspect, but these aren't too shabby. Unfortunately, I accidentally got my fingerprints all over the outer lens of my nice camera when disassembling the lighting setup after this photo >.< The lens stuck to the light ring and it was so clear that I didn't notice until I bopped it with my greasy mitts. Link to the WIP:

I am going to be gluing this guy to a clear round base; the shoes will be painted last after I dislodge him from the tiny bit of metal used to hold him. I don't do much basing so I avoid this type until I find a perfect figure for my needs like this. This fellow will be a gift for the nerd who has been repairing my computer. Thinking blue hair, green skin, red shirt, gray coat, jeans. The eye turned out okay. Face is alright so far. Just started the sweater, but then I started hacking up a lung and stopped. It is tough painting right now as I sporadically am having hideous coughing fits. Both that and hot toddy remedies are bad for painting :( Anyway, current WIP. My rainbow fairy should get some updates tomorrow.

This is the first figure that I completed when I came back from my hiatus. I'd done his eyeballs and a tiny bit of his snout before the hiatus, then completed him after. Bonus - facial recognition catches both of the human heads as faces, hah! Title has 1/3 because the package has 3 frogmen in it. Again, still suffering on the photography side, but it is improved from just the paint table. The green shading and his throat went really well. The dragonfly "meh". His clothing "meh". But hey, was dusting off the brushes. The scarab on his staff went really well, but the photos don't really catch it. I imagine this frog leading a Green Power rally, then inciting the frogs to slay any non-amphibian in their site. I think I counted 5 species in what he is holding or wearing. He's a villainous slimeball.

From an old Grenadier box set, a green slime in the process of consuming a man in chainmail.

A cursory search found nothing...but: has anyone tried painting a mini with green hair? Like a more subtle "natural" tone rather than blazing neon or something? The reason is 'currently' a surprise but if anyone has tips/tricks that'd be great!

I am getting ready to tackle Cinder, as the name suggests should I go with red, or go with green due to the fact it resembles blghtfang who is a green? ahh help I am undecided.