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Found 35 results

  1. [Edited to reflect a thread split.] After seeing some of the incredible WIPs here, I wanted to try doing some of my own. So, I decided to start with something simple: Kaladrax! Over the Christmas holidays, I went over and trimmed and sanded all the mold lines from the model. Kaladrax's details are rather soft, but that was an advantage here, as I didn't have to worry much about losing any detail as I trimmed. The base was annoying to clean up. Every time I looked, there was another mold line I missed. The spine cleanup was a multi-day nightmare. Remember, always cut away from your hand. I was lucky this time, as I just poked myself only enough to draw blood. Personally, I sometimes think that a big project isn't really underway until I've anointed it with blood. Let's hope this isn't enough to rouse an ancient dracolich from aeons of slumber. That brings us to tonight: puttying and priming. When I boiled the parts to reshape them, the torso halves came apart. It was what I was planning to do, since there was a big gap between them. I've taken the opportunity to fill the gap with putty. I'm using Tamiya Epoxy Putty, since it's what I have on hand. It's designed for resin and styrene models, but should work here. I haven't used Green Stuff, but I expect it works the same as this: Trim two equal pieces from each stick, then fold them together until they're blended. Keep it wet while you're working it, to keep it from sticking to your hands. It's workable for about 1/2 hour or more before it begins to harden, and takes more than a day to fully cure. I made a long string of putty, then wrapped it around the outside of the torso seam. I then ran a bead of AC glue (super glue) around the inside, and on the inner alignment studs. I quickly jammed them together and squeezed them together with a few clamps, and set it aside until the AC set. There were a few lines and holes to fill on the model, particularly a large injection hole in the middle of the head (above, left) and a meet line or two on the base (above, right), where the Bones material cooled lightly before meeting, leaving a seam. Normally, I'd leave it as a crack in the stone, but since it overlaps a carved crack, I felt it had to go. I jammed putty into the gaps, then smoothed it over again and again with a putty knife, until the only material left was in the gaps. The head especially is too soft for this, and I had to add material back into the hold several times until I could smooth the hole over properly without leaving a depression. I'll deal with any surface roughness after it hardens. Back to the torso. I removed the clamps and trimmed the squeezed out putty away. Look! No gaps! I even sculpted a bit of rib past where it just ends on the casting, as you can see in the background two photos up. Now I just leave it to harden, which in this cold weather, may take two or more days. For the rest of the parts, I washed them and taped over the parts that will be glued together. Then I primed them with Liquitex Neutral Gray Gesso, as I expect the model to be painted in a mix of light and dark colors. This stuff shrinks as it dries and leaves a very smooth surface to paint on. (Also, you can never have enough clamps.) I had some trouble with the hydrophobic nature of Bones, and for this model at least I was seeing some serious beading. It's been rather hit and miss before, so I tried something different. Remembering an old science experiment about surface tension and water beading, I dumped a generous amount of gesso onto my mixing surface, then just barely touched the bristles of a wet mixing brush to a drop of dish soap -- the tiniest of smidgens. I then worked this thoroughly into the gesso, and painted it onto the model. Much, much less beading! I was left with a secondary problem -- more paint bubbles -- but that was as easy to solve as blowing on the gesso, and could be solved in the future by using a touch of liquid dishwasher detergent instead. It remains to be seen if this affects the primer adhesion. And that's a good place to leave off tonight, as all this dries.
  2. Kala gaps.. joint plugs probably need some trimming. two legs dont actually sit on the base..
  3. So I've decided I'm going to paint my Kaladrax using Quickshade. I'm sure there are a number of people out there that think this is some form of sacrilege, and part of me certainly agrees. However, I've recently been experimenting with Quickshade on bones, using my Bones minis as guinea pigs, and have decided that I really like the way it looks (see my Colossal Skeleton in the Show Off forum). Cleaned and Prepared Part of the decision was based on my very limited painting time, and I hope this will allow me to get it done quicker. I'm not aiming for a Buglips level of quick here, but hopefully it's not too much longer. To start, I decided to try out the theory on one of the tail sections. I figured this would be one of the easier ones to strip back if I changed my mind (I've already glued the legs on). Base coat - Vallejo Game Color Bonewhite Quickshade Strong Tone Well, I think it's going to work, so I'll keep going with this. The coloring looks better in the flesh as it were. One thing I'm really not looking forward to is going over the whole thing with matte varnish. I believe I'm going to have to buy more. Just to outline my full plan - I'm not going to be Quickshading the base, only the dragon itself. For the base, I intend to use the same scheme as Buglips (imitation is the sincerest form of flattery), as I really liked the way the stone/foliage colors worked together. Edit: Was this a wise choice for my first WIP? Well why not.
  4. So, I've been working on Kaladrax off and on since I finished Nethyrmaul, and I finally was able to finish him off! Now, I apologize for the lack of color depth to the pictures, I'm still working out the kinks for adjusting my camera to take decent pictures in a light box.
  5. Here is my somewhat finished Kaladrax. Unlike Buglips I took over 4 months and used all the shortcuts I could. I used Army Bone Primer for a basecoat, Army Strong Shader brushed on to age the bone. Front: Back: Statue: Most of the time was for inspiration. I waffled on how to paint the marble state and columns. I desided on Carrera Marble with no veining with Gilding on the leaf pattern on the column. It's not display quality but it is tabletop quality for me. I might go back and add glowing eyes, but the attempt at OSL glow from the non bone interior did not come off. It looks more like guts. Oh well!
  6. So I paint then assemble then put on the finishing touches, but while assembling, the male hip bone got stuck. It's about 3mm from being pushed through. I've tried putting nail polish remover into the bit, and I've immersed the entire thing in water over night but it hasn't budged. What can I try next? The only thing I can think of is to leave the hip hole blocked and cut off the male piece, then try to super glue the two hips on like that. Does anyone have a better idea?
  7. So I volunteered to experiment on my Kaladrax over in the http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/50151-spongey-bones-models/'>Spongey Bones Thread to see how paint sticks on the soft, bendable bones. I figured posting a bunch of pictures in a new thread over here would be better. Here goes. I washed head and tail first with warm water and dish soap. Painted with undiluted P3 white paint. Let it dry for about 24 hours (which is what I do for all my base coats, metal or bones, personal preference). I started with his tail. These were just the pictures I could get while holding the camera myself and bending his tail. Not easy, by the way. Here's the worst that happened: In the deep crevasses some of the paint cracked a little. Mind you, what I did to his poor tail should never, ever happen to it with normal gameplay or use. And here's his head: The jaw suffered no cracks at all. Though I did notice a spot I missed on the inside when I pulled his mouth open. For the horns I pulled and twisted them around all over the place. As with the tail, in normal use or gameplay they should never see that kind of abuse. I actually made myself a little nervous, wondering if I was about to break the horns a couple times. The pictures I was able to take can't even capture the way I twisted his horns about And again, all I saw was some minor cracking in the deep crevasses. All in all, as long as the directions for painting are followed, wash first, cover with undiluted first layer, I do not see the softness being an issue. If I do find an issue I will update of course. Oh, and for being so non-bitey, Kaladrax got a treat:
  8. Just outside of registration, there are a couple of tables with a parade of Vampire bones (from the video) along with other Bones including Kaladrax and Nethermaul. Here are a few pictures. Kaladrax: Kaladrax from another angle: Nethermaul (who looks puny by comparison) and the Undead Giant (who looks really puny by comparison): The Parade of Bones: Ron
  9. Since the tail feels excessively long to me, I'm going to shorten it a bit. It should be easy enough since the tail bones don't change size very much bone to bone, just clip a vertebrae here and there, maybe add some floral wire to make the tail hold position. Though maybe rebuilding the tail with animal bones might work if my local supplier still stocks them. Anyone else have Ideas?
  10. Hi folks! Finally finished Kaladrax reborn!!!! If you have seen Kaladrax in the shop you will know that he is in fact a drcolich or skeletal dragon. Having already completed a Ral Partha dracolich I decided to try and reconstruct Kaladrax in life. This thread shows the development of the sculpt and below is him finished. http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/showthread.php?37982-Resurrection-of-a-dragon I went for a very naturalistic colourscheme like that of a crocodile. To be honest he looks better IRL than in these piccies. I think I overworked it slightly and perhaps my paints are rather past it so I will have to invest in some new ones before I start on Cang! Overall I think my sculpt is much more successful than my last attempt (the Treasure Dragon). However, I have had a slight problem with the weight of the wings which means his right back leg is slightly cracked. Hoping that the arm resting on the base will prevent further shifting but that remains to be seen. :/. Also the left wing limb is significantly thicker than the right, in part I think due to the underlying bone structure and a few areas in the scuplting were not as well defined as they could have been. The base is made of supersculpy and decorated with various Woodland scenics products and a few bits of dried plant. DSCF6892 Kaladrax 4 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr DSCF6890 Kaladrax 3 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr DSCF6882 Kaladrax 2 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr DSCF6881 Kaladrax 1 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr Let me know what you think! Jo
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