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Showing results for tags 'metal'.
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This is another variant of Reaper's Elf Ranger Flat. In this case a Dark Elf. Since I had no idea what a dark elf was, I had to do some research. Basically, they're... dark. Purples, blacks, reds, etc. I suppose there's other variants. I added the nocked arrow using brass rod, putty flights and head. A small amount of carving was involved. Painted in Reaper acrylics. Qs and Cs welcomed. Glen
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- elf ranger flat.
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The Kickstarter is live: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1138228733/moonstone-fantasy-skirmish-game/description This one is for a skirmish game featuring their wonderfully fantastical minis many of which are available in either metal or resin.
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My favorite mini shown is the fairy archer which seems to not be in any pledge level or addon?
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- miniatures
- 32mm
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The weather is basically perfect, so I have been outside painting and writing D&D adventures while enjoying the sunshine! I got this bad dude finished a little bit ago and I am pretty proud of how he turned out. I will probably go back and touch a few things up later on, but right now I would appreciate any critiques and advice. Thanks in advance!
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Been playing this silly board game with my siblings called Quartz where you all play dwarven miners who mine for valuable gems. The day marker that comes with the game is just a lame little yellow piece of wood, so I set out to find something better to replace it. Ended up settling on the pack mule with plans to paint it gold. Then for no reason whatsoever it occurred to me that maybe it would be fun for each player to have their own little dwarf character that does absolutely nothing in the game itself. So I added pretty much every Dwarf that Reaper sells to my cart as well. My goal was to paint the pack mule with Vallejo liquid gold and all the dwarves with a bronze-like metal paint. Below is the result, and keep in mind I have never painted before... You may notice that two of these are not dwarves. Well I would counter that by telling you that one of them is an undead dwarf brought back to life by the sheer need to mine fancy gems, while the other is a tavern wench who's legs I MAY have chopped off to make her dwarf height. So for all intents and purposes, she is a dwarf. I used Vallejo Liquid Gold on the mule and MSP Dwarven Gold (mixed with varying amounts of MSP Dragon Black) on the dwarves. Also shaded them with MSP Sepia Wash then sealed them up with Vallejo Satin Varnish. Oh and fun fact, if you want to add heft to a 32mm round base a sacagawea coin fits perfectly inside and adds just the right amount of weight. Also threw on a 32mm washer.
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Here are two of the statues I finished for my Ruined Temple terrain piece. Bast spoilered so it'll be SFW as she's topless. I still need to put another coat of gloss over them, to protect them, but otherwise they're just waiting for the temple to fnish.
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I wanted to share this here for those of you not on the social media outlets. My daughter's latest project was the Crazy Cat Lady that I got her for Christmas. She painted the cats first which just amazed me because some of the detail she put on them was awesome. Once she was done and I could not get her to touch up anything else she wanted to base. I decided she would do it all except the super glue. So away she went with craft glue and basing materials. She has a few more things I got her for Christmas and then birthday is in less than two weeks and I have a couple more minis for then too. Should be a busy year if actually sit down and paint.
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Zombie hand trying to seize the dwarf by surprise is from some GW zombie and the water is greenstuff. More photos here: http://zgielk.blogspot.com/2017/12/losowy-krasnolud-random-dwarf.html
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<<<MOD>>> Link to the Live Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/dgsgames/eclipse-sisterhood-freeblades-fantasy-miniatures?ref=category_newest From DGS Games, "We will launch the Eclipse Sisterhood kickstarter campaign on the afternoon of February 14th 2017. This project will produce the six core models of the faction: leader, caster, two heroes and two followers. And as many stretches as our fans help us reach! For the Traazorites, that was four models. Let's show the Empire these fierce women can do even better!"
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Even though I got these during last year's 12 Days of Reaper, I only just got around to painting them! I tried an experiment with these; painting them first with special Chrome spray paint, and then using Citadel gemstone transparent paints on them: Spiritstone Red, Soulstone Blue, and Waystone Green, in an attempt to given them that lacquered mirror look that real ornaments have. I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. In the second photo, they are shown with Copplestone's "Lovely Assistant" to give a sense of scale with a normal sized human figure.
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For your perusal, Rasia w/ Spiked Chain and Dain Deepaxe: Dain was the last mini I was able to paint before packing up about three years or so ago, and Rasia represents my return to the hobby, as seen in this WIP thread. The latter suffered some paint loss on her left leg upon removal from the mounting base, visible here before being patched up. Rasia was also an experiment with the Red Hair triad. Overall, I’m pleased with the results. While I’m still a beginner, these two are a far cry from some of my early attempts.
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Finally finished the Gravewailers. Bought two ages ago and then the Bones 3 Mythos ex-pack had one. So I waited until I got the third one before painting. Seems I started on them ages ago. But things kept getting in the way to finish. Including my cat who decided they were delicious to nibble and suck on. Rather then doing in pink and reds. Decided I wanted to go for something a little more alien and starspawn like. So tried to make them purple with the look of bluish light showing from within. Trying to get that alien Lovecraftian feel of something beyond explanation. LOL think I need some sleep. Hopefully not about anything Lovecraftian :)
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The dwarf is the 5th figure that I have painted from the old Grenadier 2007 set. It was so hideous that I never posted it, partially because I didn't really like the figure and just slapped some paint on it to call it done. I mean, those eyes were just sculpted circles. I filled the center with color, edge highlighted the raised outer edge, and then went around them with a shadow color. If you are an aspiring sculptor... never ever sculpt eyes like it is 1980. But I was talked into posting it, so blame 72moonglum and Volksfest for the horror. For scale, here is the dwarf between and Infinity Nomad and a Reaper bugbear. Knee-capping is her only option.
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Today (well technically yesterday, but since I haven't slept yet it still counts as today) I decided to take a break from my 54mm mini and paint something quick and easy. None of the Bones were speaking to me, but then I saw my unpainted Grenadier Females staring at me and remember that I had planned to paint the set this year. I grabbed the "thief-sling" basically at random and sat down to get to work. It would appear at first glance that she should be a relatively straightforward mini to paint, but there was a complication. This poor unfortunate woman was lacking a face. Sure she had a jawline, and cheekbones, and even a nose, but there was only the barest hint of where lips should be, no eyes to speak of, and to make matters worse there was even a casting defect going down from where her left eye should have been and onto her cheek. This and a few other defects were filled with brush on sealer and it was time to freehand some true 25mm eyes! Except that I didn't quite get enough sealer over the defect which made the freehand a bit off. The after painting sealing is a bit satin, which is fine for everything but the hair which lost all subtlety. To keep the theme from the previous ladies going I outfitted her in only the finest 1980 colors, and deliberately made a effort to use paints that I rarely grab off the shelf. This makes four out of ten taken painted and sealed. Maybe the other six will have their own paint days before the end of the year? My valiant attempt at freehanding eyes over a defect. And lastly, I realized that I've never taken a shot with a coin to show off how tiny the minis I'm painting are. Wow, she's smaller than the coin!
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Hey all, I looked for a thread about this but didn't see one. Anyway, what do people prefer to paint, metal or plastic minis? I just started painting and have only done plastic. I've seen pictures of some metal ones and they seem to have crisper details. I see they offer both options for a lot of minis on the reaper store, wanted to see what people think? Thanks!
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A few people asked me how I painted the rust for my Ogre Commander so here is a tutorial. For this tutorial I dug through my Bones 3 to find something that had a large expanse of metal to properly show the technique I use. My genius husband grabbed the iron maiden. Perfect! You can use this on any metal that you want to rust but I wanted something big so everyone can plainly see. So the first thing I do is paint the metal just how I would if I weren't messing it up. I used gunmetal as my basecoat. I usually end up with three thin layers to make sure I have opaque coverage. I mixed dark brown (the same one I will use for rust) into my gunmetal and shaded. I used my painting lamp to determine shadows and highlights for this one but you can decide where your light source will be. I then mixed in more of the brown and did my darkest shade. (You can shade yours however you like, I just chose brown this time, I could have easily have chosen dark grey or purple!) I then used silver to go in and hit the "hot spots" where it would be the shiniest. I do not use my brightest highlight, which I use Vallejo Metal Medium usually, when I am going to muck up my metal. I let silver be the highest highlight. I use P3 Umbral Umber, Army Painter Chaotic Red, and Army Painter Lava Orange for my rust colors. This just happens to be what I have on hand but any dark brown, deep maroon, and bright orange will give you similar results. I do not use a nice sable brush for this technique. I am going to be dabbing and splotching and would ruin a good brush. I use a brush that is already past its prime that I keep around to do dirty work like applying washes or mixing colors. My husband couldn't figure out the focus so all of the next photos were blurry. I dip my brush in the umbral umber and drag it out leaving some paint behind on the palette. I do not want thin paint for this nor do I want my brush heavily loaded. I don't want the paint to run and I want to have control over how much goes on the mini. I splotch the brown on where I want the rust to be. I google images of rusted armor, rusted wrought iron, or whatever I am working on to see how the rust might form on different things. I can use these as guides or just put the rust wherever I think it looks good. I do try and keep some "rules" like I think rust forms along the edges where moisture would settle and around bolts and rivets and hinges. Continues in reply....
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Amazingly, this only took me two weeks to finish ! I think the major challenge to this Miniature is the paint choices, and figuring out how you are going to base it. Lots of thought went into those two factors. I selected regulation heraldic colors and stuck to the rules of using them. I had fun playing with application, and layering on of the colors. While it looks simple, just for the record "It Ain't" ! So here is the Otter Knight with Sword and Shield by DSM. Hope you enjoyed my efforts, and drop me a note. Love to read what you have to say all the time. Thanks. Jasonator
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- DSM-8087
- Otter Knight
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This has been one long term challenge paint job! Assembly has been a bear, AND the sword with arm just wants to bend at every touch. So get sets for some tough going in the glue up stage. The painting has been fun, especially when I switched color schemes mid miniature :) The blue black, sapphire black, Ruby red scheme had orange added to the mix. I also changed from a plain base to a mountainous base, with shrubbery ! Lots of changes you can do. Had a blast in the long run. Hope you enjoy the results. Leave me a note please. Here are some photos. Jay
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- Dark Sword Miniatures
- DSM 1178
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I was looking for something else, when I saw the Goblins in the Bones III Kickstarter. Those guys are pretty epic. I have been working on a set of goblins and do have some Bones and Metal minis of the existing Goblins. I vastly prefer the newer sculpts (the football head ones with all the sharp teeth) but for the display set I have in mind I'm wanting to get metal versions of all of them. Will the Goblins in Bones III be made available as metal minis some time in the future? And is there a general way to tell on other types of figures? I can understand not having the Dragons translate across due to weight and size, but are there some things that make it into metal and some that don't?
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Well; It has taken me a bit longer to get these mini's assembled and painted. It is such a joy to look at one completed. I went with the white horse because the color is so difficult. I used red just to experiment with the color on the surcoat, and gold for the emblems just because they are small and I wanted them to stand out. So here is Tom Meier's Sir Tristan (on Horse and On Foot). Hope you enjoy the efforts. Jay
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- Thunderbolt Mtn
- Tom Meier
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About this project Seet update #1 for details. Extraordinarily versatile, the Tablebreaker has as many uses as you can imagine: Express your individuality at work or home! Use it as a gorgeous, eye-catching desk display! Spruce up your game room with a colorful, themed accent piece! Incorporate your passion into your living space with a sleek bookend or mantle decor! With options for both Standard and Countdown number orientation, the Tablebreaker is the perfect life-counter that all your friends are sure to envy! The Tablebreaker was designed from the ground up with 3D modeling software; this allows us to ensure the greatest manufacturability and quality control. The Tablebreaker is then precision machined on a multi-axis CNC mill using a solid billet of 6063 architectural aluminum. After machining, the dice are color anodized to MIL-A-8625 specification. Finally, each die is etched using a CO2 laser. This process selectively removes the anodization and exposes the aluminum underneath to reveal the numbers on each face. Why Architectural Aluminium (6063)? Aluminum has a superb strength to weight ratio, making it the ideal material for a beautiful, yet durable display piece. Architectural Aluminum (6063) facilitates the most vibrant anodize colors. It’s always been our goal to bring you beautiful gaming accessories with as little risk as possible. Before launching this Kickstarter, we invested a lot of time, money and effort to make sure it was possible to bring our vision to life with a quality that we're proud of. During our testing, we’ve found that in order to maintain a flawless finish, a small, shallow hole needed to be made in the otherwise solid block of aluminum to allow the die to be hung during the anodization process. We worked tirelessly to incorporate this into the overall design for a beautiful and complete finish. We solved the design change by adding a second hole, and incorporating them into distinguishing markers for the 6 and the 9. Our final product will feature two small, flush, stainless steel accent screws to complete this modern look.
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I was wondering what kind of alloy the figures are made of. I want to have one coated in vantablack, but I don't know if they can withstand 300° temperatures unscathed. For those who don't know, this coating reflects virtually all light and makes anything appear 2D. Perfect for making shadow minis if this works.