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Just a weird fish-alien bounty hunter from an ex-Games Workshop sculptor doing his own thing:- https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/24797299/the-piscean There's a 360o video on the page that shows off the mini much better than a piccy can.

So I really had to share this because I'm super proud of it and had to show it off

Hi!! my name is Katerina and I'm new to painting miniatures, I begun with a miniature from NonSenseminiatures, the Barbarian, I buyed the 54mm because it's bigger and maybe easier to paint.I asked some help to NonSense and he already made a base coat for me, I would like to get some help for painting because I see too much information and don't know were begin.I already make painting but totally differentAlso he gave for me a discount code Katerina10%, because he will sell my paints also!!!

Hi folks! It has been years since I posted here but it has also been a while since I painted anything. This is a step-by-step tutorial for painting the Daggertooth King Lizard made by AntiMatter Games for ShadowSea. The way this model is painted is in steps that require the paint to completely dry before going to the next step. It is a lot of washes and glazes that build up on top of each other and not wet blending. Step 1 was to prime entirely in white. Then in Step 2 the underside was painted with a mixture of Liquitex Muted Gray and Matte Medium, about 50/50, then thinned with a touch of water. By touch, I mean dipping the tip of the brush into water after putting the color on the brush. The ink mix needs to be thin enough to flow but not so thick it collects in thick pools. Step 3 was to paint the top side with thinned Yellow Oxide from Golden Fluid Acrylics, mixed with Buttermilk (Americana Brand). More water was added to glaze this color onto the edges of the Muted Gray underbelly. Step 4 was a shading step, where the underside was given a wash of Black Ink + Phthalo Blue ink (20/80), mixed with Matte Medium (50/50 of mixed color to medium). Black can overpower the color, so only a small amount is needed. The top side was given a wash of Burnt Sienna ink + Matte Medium (50/50). The inside of the mouth was given a wash of brick red paint mixed with black paint and a bit of matter medium. The underside was done first and allowed to dry. When painting the top side, the model was flipped upside down so that the ink did not run down onto the underside. Sep 5 is something a little different. This is a glaze of thinned white paint to reduce the “intensity” of shadows and even things out. More layers were applied to the tops of muscles and areas that are highlight zones and to also make the belly lighter overall. The white paint was basic craft paint from Americana brand. Step 6 was a glaze step. Glazes of Burnt Sienna ink, thinned with about 50% water, were painted on the upper body and head and Burnt Umber ink was applied to the top of the back. The claws and spikes were given a wash of Burnt Umber ink + black Ink + Matter Medium (50/50 with color). Step 7 was to give paint some stripes. This was pretty simple, using black paint + Turquoise ink, thinned with water so it was translucent (maybe 60/40 water/color). Step 8 was the basic highlight stage. Thinned Buttermilk color was painted on the top edge of scales to simulate light reflection while thinned white was used to highlight the legs and underside. This was done with a very small brush, unlike all of the previous steps. The spikes on the back were painted with more Burnt Sienna ink mixed with Buttermilk to blend them, then thinned Buttermilk for the edge highlights. Some final highlights were with thinned white on the top of the spikes. Step 9. Final Highlights and Base. The claws were painted like the spikes in Step 8 while the teeth were glazed with white to build up brightness, then painted in the edges with pure white. Small details, like eyeballs were done here also, using bright yellow and orange for the eyeball and back pupil with a small white dot for the reflection. The base had rocks painted in gray paint and the ground a light tan. This was allowed to dry, then a wash of a mix of Raw Sienna + Turquoise ink + Matte Medium was applied. The ground was washed with Raw Sienna ink + Matte Medium. Highlights were made with the tan paint on a bristly brush (an old drybrush brush with bristles pointing all around). The paint was put on the tips of the bristles and stippled around to add some random patterns. A bit of thinned white was used to add some edges to the rocks. Then the while model was given a coat of Dullcote, which ended up being a bit glossy, but that’s how it goes sometimes. cheers, Eric antimatter-games.com

Hi Everyone, I wanted to share a new campaign that I've just started: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1502793436/mav3rick-modular-3d-printable-tank-kit-in-28mm-sca Featuring a snap-fit modular design, MAV3RICK is a 3D printable kit that can be configured into a number of different vehicle variants: Take a look, I'd love to know what you think. Thanks for looking! -Treadhead Rad

Not really sure where to put this question but this seems as good as any place. Is reaper done making metal minis? I own well over 100 legendary and warlord mini's as all as most of the old dragons all in pewter and much prefer pewter to the bones line. I'm mostly interested in the beautiful new dragons that reapers been turning out, and will be with the next bones 4

Hello all! I can't believe that i've missed this forum so far! My name's Andrew Cothill and i'm trying to learn to sculpt miniatures in 3D (Zbrush). I've been at it for about 9 months now. I don't mind brutal crits so please feel free to tear into it and i'll try to taken them on board for my current WIP =) Here's the concept i was working from by the super talented Klaher Baklaher Here's a sketchfab link to the model too. It's heavily decimated to fit on the site https://sketchfab.com/models/8d870cf7fd1447759c4322b75c7fc201 Thanks for looking and have a good day!

Hey all, I looked for a thread about this but didn't see one. Anyway, what do people prefer to paint, metal or plastic minis? I just started painting and have only done plastic. I've seen pictures of some metal ones and they seem to have crisper details. I see they offer both options for a lot of minis on the reaper store, wanted to see what people think? Thanks!

My friend found this dwarf, he thinks he got it around 2006, about eleven years ago:

I'm just looking for suggestions as to which huge or colossal sized dragon miniature I should get for my Pathfinder game. I'm a little picky about sculpts and how things are posed; I like some of the Bones kickstarter dragons, but the ones in particular that I want haven't been released in the reaper store yet, or if they have I can't find them.

Just a quick upload of some pics of my converted flower witch to a Harold on burning chariot of tzeentch.

So this mini has been passed along through 3 people before getting to my husband who said only "I think it's a RalPartha ogre." I've found nothing in my attempts to identify it. Unfortunately it was already black primered, so the pictures aren't grand. There appears to be 2 rats on (or coming out of?) it's back, and there's a fish hanging off the belt in the back. Anybody have a clue on this guy?

I'm new to this hobby, spent too much money buying my first pack of minis ((got the Hordes Krielstone bearer and stone scribe 4 set) because I hadn't come across the Reaper Bones at that point) and this is my fifth miniature I've painted. I wanted to paint a half orc barbarian sort of character in case I wanted to try playing D&D on Roll20 or something (im a bit shy, so an in person kind of D&D thing is a bit of a stretch). Welp, here is my uh.. 3/4 orc barbarian :)

I have the miniature pictured below. Does anyone know her name? Has she been discontinued? I would like to buy another, but can't find her anywhere. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/149604018845672761/ The forum won't let me load my pic, so the link is above.

So just recently discovered different miniature videos on You Tube and such and one I was watching today made me kind of think how I pronounce the word "miniature". I flat out just pronounce it probably eighty percent of the time as "min-uh-chur" and the other twenty percent of the time I'll do "min-yuh-chur", but the video I was watching today the guy was saying "min-ee-uh-chur" emphasizing that second "I" while I usually either ignore it all together or pronounce if very slightly and really not as it's own syllable but more as something that softens the vowel in the second syllable. So he was making it a four-syllable word, while mine is almost always a three-syllable word. Not that there is any right or wrong, but I just got curious. Any thoughts?

A Bones Orc Berserker. I'm trying to learn to paint shading on skin, primarily, although I decided to do this orc in green with the olive greens triad. I also decided to try a rust effect for the armor (inspired by somebody's verdegris post). I started with a Ruddy Brown base, heavy drybrushed steel over it, and then dabbed bits of the lava triad oranges on it with my most goofed up drybrush brush. I should make my players save against tetanus with this guy. I see from the zoomed up image that I seemed to have left some gaps in his armpits which is really frustrating, and I'm starting to get bummed out about my lack of basing ability...

This is a really odd figure, but I was looking for a burrowing creature, and this guy fit the bill. Biggest challenge was to find a paint scheme that looked rocky and organic at the same time. A floor wax coating on the teeth and tongue after the flat sealer gave the appropriate "wet" appearance. Kevin in Edmonton http://www.mageknightkevin.blogspot.ca

Hey all, A friend picked this guy up for me to paint for his upcoming pathfinder game. This is my 4th painted mini so far, and my first with a good brush. Painted this with a Raphael 8404, and the difference compared to synthetic brushes is pretty great. Anyways, all the colors were chosen by my buddy, and he wanted the gloss finish (though I would have gone with matte) This was also my first attempt at a transition/fade/gradient (dunno what to call it, mind is blank atm) effect on the cloak, which I think came out ok. Also, sorry for the totally 'meh' phone pics, ha.

I was curious how someone can make some tiny printed documentation like wanted posters so that I can glue to the base of a few of my miniatures or maybe glue to scenery? Do you try and use some thinner paper maybe or is the normal printer paper good enough (I doubt it though)?

The LEAD SOLDIER served honorably in Her Majesty's Royal Guard in his former life, and fought honorably in many battles... before being laid low by the sad fate of toys everywhere: he got lost. He had resigned himself to a sad fate of obscurity, and even risked being melted down, until he was rescued by a craftsman and restored to his former glory. His greatest fear is that someone will find out that he is not in fact a Lead Soldier... but that he is actually lead-free pewter, a shameful thing, as lead is dangerous, and a soldier wants to be as dangerous as possible. The WOODEN PIRATE sailed the seven seas in search of plunder, and given that his boy was a rather bloodthirsty sort, participated in many atrocities, which rather disturbed the Wooden Pirate; personally, he was a rather tenderhearted sort, and could be talked out of plundering your ship if it came out that you lacked insurance, a thing which made the other pirates laugh at him at the annual pirate conventions. After striking up an acquaintance with the Lead Soldier, he was convinced to take up heroism as a career, and is known throughout the land of Zo as the slayer of Shaykosch, the Deathless Wolf. The Wooden Pirate has found happiness in his new career field, and can often be found with his friend the Lead Soldier as they undertake new adventures daily. The Lead Soldier was rescued from the adoption table at Reapercon recently, and given a new paint job. His existence inspired the construction of a character found in the backstory of the RPG, "The Zantabulous Zorceror Of Zo," the famous and heroic Wooden Pirate, scratchbuilt from wooden doweling, beads, and some scraps. And yes, I know, his arms are visually disturbing for being a bit too long. This is a thing that will be corrected on the next wooden figure. Y'know what? Cyanoacrylate doesn't hold for beans on wood. Go with epoxy. And Alison wants you all to know she is NOT a puppet!

So, I'm working on the Dungeons & Dragons Animated Series characters, and I'm at a loss for Diana the Acrobat. I've got the rest, minus Dungeon Master and Venger, but I already have some ideas as to what I need to order for those two. And, yes, I know Impact! makes chibi D&DtAS minis. Those aren't what I'm looking for.

Greeting all, What would you recommend for a beginner painter for an easy humanoid (no monster) miniature? I am getting into to painting and want to something easy to begin with. Thanks

This is Reaper's 50287: Caine, Cyber-Troll, a design-your-own mini designed by Wayne Reynolds and sculpted by Bobby Jackson. It came in two parts, which fitted together neatly at his wrists and the shoulder point of the strap. They were rather bulky and I felt better using pins to hold them together. The base supplied was too small for Caine's wide stance, but I hear Reaper is working on that. Meanwhile I used a larger round base and painted it up to look like asphalt. The WIP thread (which also includes a number of old school Ral Partha Shadowrun figures) is here. Show-off threads for the other Shadowrun figures are: a Troll woman from Wolfram's Gang, a Wolfram's gang troll with tattoos, an ork woman street samurai, an Oni bouncer, a cyber-troll in reflective armor, and the unbelievably over-the-top Lord Torgo. You can see the entire squadron of cyber trolls on Jasper the 2nd's Spaceship Superstar - Squad Entries thread.

Heyguys, been a long time since I last posted. I recently decided I want to build a diorama involvingminiatures and at last one muscle car model. I'm not certain of what scale model car I should beleaving toward. I want one of my characters to conceivably be able to drive said car.

Hi there, Just ordered the 3 D&D 5th edition corebooks and notice something in the free basic rules: Fire Giant, Frost Giant and Hill Giant are now "Huge" monsters instead of large. So, do you guys know any nice miniature of these three giant types that fits the 28mm scale? DDM has nice frost and fire giants (including one really similar to PHB's cover) but they are all large size. It doesn't matter if it's plastic, metal or resin. Thanks!