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Some of these came back as other numbers, but but the rest won't be brought back by Reaper and some might be present in other paint lines. (Twilight Triad 9727) 9079 Deep Amethyst 9080 Indigo Sky 9081 Pale Indigo - mix equal portions of Imperial Purple and Sky Blue (Colored Liners Triad 9738) 9112 Red Liner - Reaper 9307 (Discontinued now) 9113 Green Liner - Reaper 9308 9114 Violet Liner - Reaper 9237 (Discontinued now) (Muted Purples Triad 9740) 9118 Dusky Grape 9119 Bruise Purple - Reaper 9326 (Bones 5) 9120 Faded Purple (Clear Brights III Triad 9744) 9130 Clear Orange - Lava Orange 9218 and Explosion Orange 9219 9131 Clear Viridian - Peacock Green 9226 (Discontinued now) 9132 Clear Plum - Royal Purple 9240 (Blush Colors Triad 9747) 9139 Antique Rose - KS Old West Rose 9140 Blushing Rose 9141 Porcelain Rose (Historic Blues Triad 9751) 9151 Steely Blue 9152 Military Blue - Reaper 9269 (Discontinued now) 9153 Weathered Blue (Desert Camos Triad 9752) 9154 Dune Shadow 9155 Desert Khaki 9156 Desert Sand (Mist Greens Triad 9756) 9166 Shadow Green - Reaper 9270 (Discontinued now) 9167 Field Green 9168 Mist Green (Terracotta Clays Triad 9757) - Redstone Triad 9775 (Discontinued now) 9169 Muddy Clay 9170 Terracotta Clay 9171 Fired Clay (Cold Greys Triad 9758) 9172 Stormcover Grey 9173 Coldstone Grey 9174 Icy Grey - KS Aircraft Grey (slightly greener) (Volcano Browns Triad 9760) 9178 Cinder Brown 9179 Volcano Brown - Reaper 9268 (Discontinued now) 9180 Ashen Brown - Reaper 9327 (Tropical Colors Triad 9761) 9181 Bright Coral 9182 Saffron sunset - Reaper 9247 9183 Cloud Pink - Reaper 9286 (Discontinued now) (Reptilian Greens Triad 9762) 9184 Serpentine Shadow 9185 Reptus Green 9186 Scaly Highlight (Sandy Colors Triad 9764) 9190 Sandy Brown - Reaper 9249 (Discontinued now) 9191 Sandy Tan 9192 Sandy Yellow (Sea Blues Triad 9765) 9193 Stormy Sea 9194 Clouded Sea 9195 Seafoam Blue (Humanoid Skintones Triad 9768) 9202 Troll Shadow - MSP Stained Olive 29838 (Discontinued now) 9203 Gnoll Brown 9204 Halforc Highlight (Reaper Ink II Triad 9771) 9211 Green Ink 9212 Blue Ink 9213 Purple Ink (Spring Greens Triad 9749) 9145 Moth Green - Reaper 9248 9146 Spring green - Reappearance at RCon 2015 9147 Luminous Green - Reaper 9248 + 1 drop of white (Redstone Triad 9775) 9223 Redstone Shadow 9224 Redstone 9225 Redstone Highlight (Bright Skintones Triad 9716) 9232 Bright Skin Shadow 9233 Bright Skin 9234 Bright Skin Highlight (Shading Colors Triad 9779) 9235 Red Shadow 9236 Green Shadow 9237 Violet Shadow (Dusky Skin Triad 9784) 9250 Dusky Skin Shadow 9251 Dusky Skin 9252 Dusky Skin Highlight (Evening Colors Triad 9789) 9265 Deep Twilight 9266 Violet Light 9267 Sunset Purple (Neutral Bone Triad 9791) 9271 Dirty Bone 9272 Graveyard Bone 9273 Splintered Bone (Western Colors Triad 9795) 9283 Old West Rose 9284 Lone Star Leather 9285 Denim Blue (Chronoscope Colors Triad 9797) 9291 IMEF Olive 9292 Bathalian Chitin 9293 Alien Flesh (CAV Colors Triad 9799) 9295 MSP Core Colors: Rach Red 9296 MSP Core Colors: Malvernian Purple 9297 MSP Core Colors: Adonese Green (Partial and non Triad colors) 9073 Chestnut Gold 9093 Golden Highlight 9121 Khaki Shadow 9142 Stained Ivory 9157 Olive Shadow 9159 Worn Olive 9175 Swamp Green 9177 Camouflage Green 9210 Red Ink 9220 Olive Skin Shadow 9222 Olive Skin Highlight 9226 Peacock Green 9229 Worn Navy 9230 Soft Blue 9238 Regal Purple 9244 Muddy Soil 9249 Sandy Brown 9268 Volcano Brown 9269 Military Blue 9270 Shadow Green 9277 Spattered Crimson 9278 Gory Red 9282 Maggot White 9286 Punk Rock Pink (Heavy Gear paints) RPR 61101 Terra Nova Tundra (Possible alternative: NMM gold?) RPR 61102 Macallen Brown RPR 61103 Redrider Crimson RPR 61104 Dune Shadow RPR 61105 Mekong Moss RPR 61106 Giant Fern RPR 61107 Okavango Swamp RPR 61108 Republique Red RPR 61109 Armadillo Tusk RPR 61110 White Sand RPR 61111 Paxton Red RPR 61112 War Paint Red RPR 61113 Arthurian Blue RPR 61114 Blue Crescent RPR 61115 Atlantean Aqua RPR 61116 Coated Armor RPR 61117 Factory White (Ghost white + Blue Flame perhaps?) RPR 61118 Grel Flesh RPR 61119 Afterburn Grey RPR 61120 Hazard Yellow RPR 61121 R.a.m. Black RPR 61122 Durasheet Alloy RPR 61123 Skunkworks Gunmetal RPR 61124 Beacon Yellow RPR 61125 Fallout Grey RPR 61126 Ash Grey RPR 61127 Waveform Aquamarine RPR 61128 Gamma Shielding Gold RPR 61129 Cat's Eye Umber RPR 61130 Cat's Eye RPR 61131 Red Dust RPR 61132 Drillbit Metal HD Line: 29803 HD Entrail Pink 29804 HD Rusty Red 29805 HD Burning Orange 29807 HD Mustard Yellow 29810 HD Mossy Green 29814 HD Ice Blue 29816 HD Solid Blue 29817 HD Winter Blue 29818 HD Nightsky Blue 29821 HD Sunburn Flesh 29829 HD Golden Brown 29830 HD Ruddy Brown 29832 HD Concrete Grey 29833 HD Ash Grey 29834 HD Field Grey 29835 HD Dirty Grey 29836 HD Military Grey 29837 HD Armor Grey 29838 HD Stained Olive 29839 HD Maroon Red 29840 HD Garnet Red 29845 HD Gilded Yellow 29846 HD spruce Green 29848 HD Jungle Camo 29849 HD Umber Brown 29850 HD Elfin Flesh 29851 HD Tropical Aqua 29852 HD Dwarven Flesh 29853 HD Rosy Pink 29854 HD Arctic Grey

I made the mistake of ordering a duplicate of 09426 Charred Brown and am struggling to find a general use for it. I applied a very thin glaze over grey I had underpainted with scratches and scuffs over grey and after two coats it did create a somewhat interesting washed out look. But it's a little too dead for leather overall. I think I could mix it in with Scale 75 inks for interesting dark wood, and maybe with purple and blues for dark desaturated shadows, but these are pretty specialized. What have you found it works well for? I've also got an extra bottle of 09458 Kobold Scale and 09483 Twilight Purple, but I think I can use those up quite readily for various things. Also, with the unfortunate demise of Secret Weapon, what Reaper paints would be the best replacements for their rubber colors? They had a reputation for being great for that dead grey cool blue that rubber often reads as. I unfortunately never got a chance to pick up a bottle. Thank you!

Once upon a time Palomino Gold was recommended as a substitute for yellow ochre (the same way Russet Brown fills the burnt umber role, among others). But I stumbled upon this page recently: https://www.reapermini.com/search/yellow ochre Is 09331 closer to typical artist paints' yellow ochre than Palomino Gold now? While we're at it, I've been wondering about replacements for rubber and rust colors since the unfortunate dissolution of Secret Weapon. I've never used them myself but heard they were quite nice. What current MSPs would match closest to Secret Weapon's old rubber triad and rust colors? I came upon "Oxidized Brown" and "Oxidized Red" at Miniature Market a few weeks ago. Thanks!

Hi all, quick question what are some paints you would like to see from reaper? I would like to see a line of effect paints, such as a few different rust effects, something for a running oil or grease, and a very flat black for soot build up.

10mm Kallistra Elves I did for a commission all painted using Reaper MSP Paints. https://youtu.be/wAFlY7PXhn4

So the stars have aligned and Mudgullet has been released just in time for my group's Tomb of Annihilation playthrough. I'm planning on going for a simple, suitably froghemoth-y color scheme but have realized that my palette is lacking in the greens department. Oh, no! So, time to remedy this. What should I grab from the MSP and Bones paint lines to give me a good selection of greens, while limiting the number of colors I need to buy (maybe 3-5 bottles this purchase)? What are some of the colors you folk tend to reach for, with an eye towards versatility? The Power Palette is only as good as the swatches it pulls from, and it's been my experience that Reapers paint swatches are very hit or miss, unfortunately. Thanks!

OK, I don't want to put the cart before the horse, but are Reaper examining the potential for colorshift paints? With those big bugs coming in Bones IV, now (or very soon) might be a good time for some sparkly shiftiness. If this can't be answered, that's OK--nuke away. But I'd be curious to know the ifs and whys (if available). I just suddenly felt like I needed them.

I have some Reaper-produced HD paints that came with white caps. I would like to obtain some black caps, in order to avoid the psychic pain of having paints that aren't configured properly. But the only caps that I could find in the Reaper store were white caps. Is there any hope for me? By which I mean, is there any hope that I could obtain black caps (for Reaper dropper bottles) from the webstore?

After a poll this seems to be the best place to put this thread. For the most part I'll stick photos under spoilers because my phone likes to make them large. So I bought a sketchbook today with the intent to catalog and show off all of my paints. I thought it was quite the appropriate book to get. First I made a grid on a page. Then added the title to each column: Name & SKU, None, Base, Wash, Brown Liner, Blue Liner. That's as far as I've gotten. Next I plan on starting to fill out paint names and SKU's. Then I will prime the squares with some plain white brush on primer (Vallejo in this case). I'm really hoping that the paper is thick enough to avoid the water from just being absorbed. If it isn't I will go to the craft store and buy a better book with different paper and can use this for something else later. Each column is a different thickness of paint/what I'll be putting it over. So None is straight out of the bottle, Base is thinned enough for a base coat, Wash is thinned down to a wash consistency, and Brown and Blue Liner will have each of them put over the primer and then a base consistency paint over that. I'm going to spend some time filling out the names and SKU's and then I'll get to priming the squares. Might go back and go over the lines with a sharpie or pen to make them a little more apparent where the lines are for my sake. ETA: I already have a spreadsheet of all of the paints I own and then sub-sheets broken down by line/company. I think there is a way to put color samples into the sheet but I've yet to figure it out. So I'm making this so I don't have to pull out all of my paints when I need to color scheme something. I can just pull out the book and go from there. It'll be much more efficient for me.

1) Will these 12 new paints (73400-73411) be available for normal retail sale at some point? 2) They claim to be HD paints, but they have white caps. What's up with that? 3) Is there any chance of being able to purchase black caps for Reaper paint bottles? I could find only white caps in the store.

Bit of an opinion piece here, but what are the Reaper MSP colors you find that you can't live without? What colors do you think should be in everyone's collection? A list of recommended paints for aspiring artists looking to get started with Reaper MSP. (Note: This list is neither complete, exhaustive, or required. It is just to provide you with a few ideas about where to start.) 1. Nightshade Purple (I lied, this one is pretty much required) 2. Walnut Brown 3.Bronzed Skin 4. Liner (Brown especially) 5. Clear Magenta 6. Dragon Green 7. Ritterlich Blue 8.Rust Brown 9. Ochre Gold Triad 10. Carnage Red 11. Snow Shadow 12. Dark Skin Shadow 13. Corporeal Shadow (may be out of print) 14. Carnival Purple (out of print) 15. Amethyst Purple 16. Terran Khaki 17. Linen White 18. Ghost White 19. Soil Triad 20. Stone Triad 21. Palomino Gold 22. Blackened Brown 23. Bloodthirsty Triad 24. Peacock Green 25. Dragon Red 26. Nightmare Black 27. Pure/Solid Black/White 28. Highlight Orange 29. Red Brick 30. Dark Elf Skintone Triad 31. Rosy Skin Triad 32. Oiled Leather

So I see a lot of people painting the translucent mini's like the slimes and grave wraith with Tamiya clear colors, but I do not want to have a second setup for their paint formulation, so I am wondering if the Reaper Clears (like 9099 clear purple) give the same effect? Would be nice to just go straight to the color instead of having to throw down a clear coat and then doing a wash onto the translucent mini's (like how I did my grave wraith). Any help or suggestions is appreciated.

Right then. I'm looking to switch to Reaper paints from Citadel for various reasons and would like to know if there are any tips or tricks for doing this. I figure this forum is the best place to ask. Plus, I like you people already. Y'all are my kind of people. Well, most of you. Except that one person... I've gotten a spreadsheet off the intertubes that has a rough guess about colour matches for the two ranges (including a few others, too) so I know which paints are similar. I'm going to continue to use Citadel's metallic and shade range as I'm used to the former and the latter are better than anything else I've seen barring what I can create - that is, unless someone can convince me otherwise. Here's my biggest problem: I own most of the range from the other company. I think I'm missing two colours out of the bunch. Should I bother switching at this point? Am I too far in to do this? It's not like I'm running out of paint every week - those paint pots last a while in this house - so replacing them as they get used is going to take a long time. That's fine, I guess. I just want the shiny new stuff now. Other than replacement, is there anything else I need to know to ease the process? Blocks of 54 paints at a time seems reasonable enough but, then again, this is coming from the guy that buys all the models for one solo campaign just to switch to another setting. That level of "reasonable" is what you're working with on this query. If this isn't in the right place for this post, please move it / delete it / kill it with fire. I'm still figuring the in's and out's of this particular forum. (I did notice there was no reception table in the lobby, though.)

So, I'm currently working on painting up Wyrmgear. I'm going for a brass, bronze, gold color; I've got several different MSP metallic paints so I decided to test them out to see which ones looked good or I could use for some TMM shading/highlighting. So I ran some lines of each color on a piece of paper. knarthax was on the hangouts and he said that other people might want to know the results so I snapped a quick pic with my phone. Here are the results. The cross at the top is Clockwork Brass (horizontal line) over Drillbit Metal. Both colors are very close to each other which is surprising as they look very different wet on the palette. I hope this helps someone. If needed, I can take a picture with a better camera and better lighting sometime later.

Hello all, I'm new to the forum, but have been following a few threads for painting help and inspiration. I'm currently working on painting my first two models after following a number of tutorials (Hot Lead, Forums etc.), and I'm using the Master Series Core Colors Set #1 (108 paints) which is a fantastic set and has pretty much all I need as a beginner. I've got quite a few minis that I plan to paint, and I can't help but wonder what I'm missing with some of the other MSP sets, particularly this one: https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/paint%20set/sku-down/09957 Does this effectively "complete" the entire MSP collection of colours following Set #1? Are there additional colours and sets that have been released since then? Also, generally speaking, what does this set add to Set #1 in terms palette and products? It'd be nice if there was a breakdown for each of Reaper's paint set offerings, to understand completely what they contain, what they add to your arsenal (complimenting other sets, general purpose or specific function) etc. I'd love to know what I'm missing and where else I should invest in expanding my paint collection. Any information would be greatly appreciated! Also I'll post some WIP soon (although I'm close to complete so I may just post the final result). Cheers! -Finn

So I know that the Liners are all really good for a "primer" for Bones minis, and that the infamous Brown Liner was the first to be discovered for this purpose, but that all of them have been found to be really good. My question though is that I have read here that some have found the Brown/Blue/Grey Liners to all be pretty similar in color. Are there are particular advantages to using the different colors of liners if you are using them as a "primer" for Bones, or is getting one of them going to be enough? Additionally, what are the other main uses for Liners aside from the (not originally intended use of primer for Bones)? As a newbie, I don't fully understand what it gets used for otherwise yet. Are they something that eventually I'll be using as I develop more techniques or are they just different consistency/shade/etc.? Finally, on a completely different note, as I am slowly gathering different colors as I build my collection and start my painting journey, are there any particular colors that seem to just get used a lot? I know that Walnut Brown is really popular (and I already have at least one bottle from one of the old LTPKs). Obviously this is highly dependent on what you like to paint, and beauty being in the eye of the beholder, etc. To that end, most of my stuff is going to be geared toward the fantasy angle as I mainly anticipate painting stuff for RPGs (D&D, Pathfinder, etc.) with the occasional other models thrown in for fun. But things like Orc flesh, etc. are going to be somewhat common as are armor, weapons, etc. I know that you can always mix paints too (and heck, that's a big part of the fun in experimenting) but was just curious if there are some particularly useful colors out there that I should be looking to snag since I really don't plan to buy them all (yet).

Am I missing something or does Reaper charge about $7 for the case in the big paint sets? Not that I disagree with their right to. Just want to make sure if I place a paint order I don't order a set if I don't need to. Or that I don't miss out on something else (other than the case) by not ordering the set. 3.29 a bottle x 54 ________ $177.66 Big set price: $184.99

Forgive me if any of these questions are prominently answered somewhere. I've been reading through a lot of materials here on the site and forums and learned a lot, but a few things I still didn't find answers on. What is liner? I've seen several paints called liner but I have no idea what that means or how it's different from the other paints. I understand washes and drybrushing, what they're good for and how to do them, but can somebody explain glazing to me? What should I be looking for in a glaze, and when should I use one? How should I use one? When would one use an MSP HD paint instead of a regular MSP paint, and vice versa? I've seen a lot of people extolling the use of wet palettes, and I've seen discussion on how to make one, but what exactly are they good for? Is there more to it than simply keeping paint from drying out on your palette? Does it water down the paint? What, if any, effects does it have on mixing, exactly? Do you still need another palette alongside it for certain things? I also have a few more general questions that have no correct answer, but I'm kinda curious to get a few responses/opinions on, as somebody new to this hobby. When you're doing a mini, how long do you typically paint for, not including drying time? What do you consider speed painting? When I see these incredible professional paint jobs, how long did those take to paint? How quickly do you go through paint bottles? Does it make sense to get an extra bottle of one's most commonly-used paints, or do those bottles last a long time? Do you personally use a sealer? Have you ever regretted not doing so? What are your ten most essential paints, the ones you personally use all the time for whatever reason? What painter do you think I absolutely must start being a fan of? What painter have you learned the most from since you started this hobby? And, what the heck, tell me what your favorite Reaper mini of all time is. Has to be one you've actually painted. I think my favorite is 77021 Lindir, Elf Archer. I butchered the face, but it's a fantastic mini and I learned a lot from painting him when I was just starting out.

Hey all! I know about the Chart at Dakka Dakka for GW etc, but I have been reading articles on the Craft and elsewhere that talk about Pro Paint Colors in the tutorials and such, and wonder if there is an equivalency chart somewhere? As I don't use all that much Reaper paint atm, I will still have to look it up in the store or in Casketworks.* But at least I will be able to try to match with what I have on hand... Thanks for any and all help! George *(Yes I like having Hard copy catalogues)

Hello, My recent holiday order came with an advertisement for a new paint series, the MSP bones line of paints. Is this just a new line of colors, or a specialized paint for just bones? Does this work as well for metal miniatures? Thanks

I recently bought my first MSP Reaper paints by purchasing SEVERAL triads and started to use them in my paints. First, I love the MSP bottles as I feel a great measure of control in paint volume without having to use a toothpick or brush to pick it out (my method for getting paint out of GW pots). On the flip-side, I have recently been painting chibi figures and so tend to lean to a highly saturated color palette (the cartoony look. . . go figure). It seems to me that the Reaper paints in general are not as color saturated as some of the GW paints. Either that or it is that they have a stronger matte finish compared to a glossier GW finish. Is this common experience or knowledge? It could be the particular triads that I selected. I needed a broader range of skin tones and browns to use so a lot of my triads fleshed out that area of my paint range (GW is sparse in flesh tones).

Hello all and thank you for your help. I feel like this has probably been covered, but I couldn't find specifically what I'm looking for so please excuse me asking. If there is already a thread you could direct me to that would be excellent as well. I am going to get into miniature painting and have decided that my best bet to get started would be to go through the Reaper Learn To Paint Kits 1-5. These come with a number of colors already, but I am interested in what (if any) colors people suggest adding to the collection of paint included in the kits. I can list the paints below organized by triad. Colors listen in parenthesis are not included in the collection, but are part of a color triad of an included color. I'm not sure if that's a good way to go or not as I understand the concept of triads and base, shadow, highlight principals, but not the application. You also get some duplicates which I will list how many. Information from this thread, which I then re-organized and reformatted to make it easier to read and cut out duplicates (IMO) thanks to Ced1106, with a few corrections on names. Over 50 bottles of paint, and 35 unique colors plus the Primer and Sealer. Here's a link to all the current Triads AFAIK might be as of 2009 only, so maybe there are newer ones. Additives Triad: Reaper Inks I: Lining Triad: Brush-on Primer x3 Black Ink Blue Liner Brush-on Sealer (Brown Ink) Brown Liner (Flow Improver) (Red Ink) (Grey Liner) Neutral Colors: Off-Whites: Pure White x3 Linen White x2 Rainy Grey (Leather White) Pure Black (Ghost White) Medium Skin: Rosy Skin: Tanned Skin x2 Rosy Skin x2 Tanned Shadow (Rosy Shadow) Tanned Highlight (Rosy Highlight) Gold Metallics: Silver Metallics: Colored Metallics I: Antique Gold x2 Honed Steel Pearl White New Gold Polished Silver (Ruby Red) (Ancient Bronze) (Shadowed Steel) (Copper Orange) Ochre Golds: Natural Steel: Palomino Gold True Silver (Chestnut Gold) (Blackened Steel) (Buckskin Pale) (Tarnished Steel) Yellow: Blood: Bloodthirsty Red: Sunlight Yellow x2 Blood Red x2 Carnage Red (Marigold Yellow) (Red Brick) (Bloodstain Red) (Lemon Yellow) (Deep Red) (Clotted Red) Burnt Colors: Red Browns: Autumn Browns: Classic Browns: Ruddy Leather x3 Mahogany Brown Russet Brown Intense Brown Oiled Leather x4 (Chestnut Brown) (Harvest Brown) Walnut Brown x2 (Burnt Orange) (Rust Brown) (Orange Brown) Blackened Brown Cool Greens: Warm Greens: Olive Greens: Grass Green Leaf Green Olive Green (Forest Green) (Pine Green) (Muddy Olive) (Jade Green) (Pale Green) (Pale Olive) Pure Blues: Martial Blues: Ultramarine Blues: Sapphire Blue x2 Breonne Blue Ultramarine Shadow (True Blue) Ashen Blue (Ultramarine Blue) (Sky Blue) (Templar Blue) (Ultramarine Highlight) From what I can see there is a lot of good colors that people recommend included in the L2PKs. What I'm mostly interested in are the following: -Autumn themed colors like Red, Yellow, Gold, Brown. I feel like I might be good on brown with what's included and Palomino gold might work great for turning leaves as well? What about a fall red and yellow though? I just love the look of fall and I would really like to get some great fall themed miniature armies going, much similar to this bloodydrakes amazing circle of oboros army. -Red seems pretty lacking too, maybe the Fire triad to get a nice orange as well? this kind've ties into the Fall theme I want to get going for a tabletop army. -Yellow. Any suggestions for another nice yellow or will sunlight yellow (which I like the look of a lot) be good enough for all my yellow needs. -Metallics. Some of my favorite colors are metallic Bronze and Copper, but any suggestions between Ancient Bronze, Coppery Orange, Scorched Metal, Old Bronze, Tarnished Brass? I'm looking for a cleanish looking color like gold, but a bit darker and more reddish/brown. Too many options :) -Forest greens. I'm quite surprised by the lack of greens, Grass and Leaf sound useful enough, but is there a preference between Forest/Pine green for a darker color or a different suggestion? -Liners, I don't know much about liners, but I keep hearing people say they are important. Is there a certain color I should get besides the Blue/Brown? Really anything that you more experienced painters found the L2PKs lacking in or consider a good stepping point once you graduate from the kits. Thanks!

I'm doing some shading on my current mini with some MSP Burgundy Wine. I have it really thinned down to about 1:10 paint:water. After several passes I noticed it started to get a chalky appearance. I used the same color as a base coat on another part of the mini with about three coats and had no problem there. It was only when I thinned it out to glaze that it started to chalk up. What am I doing wrong and is there a way to correct it? Thanks!