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Found 148 results

  1. Some of these came back as other numbers, but but the rest won't be brought back by Reaper and some might be present in other paint lines. (Twilight Triad 9727) 9079 Deep Amethyst 9080 Indigo Sky 9081 Pale Indigo - mix equal portions of Imperial Purple and Sky Blue (Colored Liners Triad 9738) 9112 Red Liner - Reaper 9235 (Back in Bones 3 as 9307) 9113 Green Liner - Reaper 9236 (Back in Bones 3 as 9308) 9114 Violet Liner - Reaper 9237 (Muted Purples Triad 9740) 9118 Dusky Grape 9119 Bruise Purple 9120 Faded Purple (Clear Brights III Triad 9744) 9130 Clear Orange - Lava Orange 9218 and Explosion Orange 9219 9131 Clear Viridian - Peacock Green 9226 9132 Clear Plum - Royal Purple 9240 (Blush Colors Triad 9747) 9139 Antique Rose - KS Old West Rose 9140 Blushing Rose 9141 Porcelain Rose (Historic Blues Triad 9751) 9151 Steely Blue 9152 Military Blue - Reaper 9269 9153 Weathered Blue (Desert Camos Triad 9752) 9154 Dune Shadow 9155 Desert Khaki 9156 Desert Sand (Mist Greens Triad 9756) 9166 Shadow Green - Reaper 9270 9167 Field Green 9168 Mist Green (Terracotta Clays Triad 9757) - Redstone Triad 9775 9169 Muddy Clay 9170 Terracotta Clay 9171 Fired Clay (Cold Greys Triad 9758) 9172 Stormcover Grey 9173 Coldstone Grey 9174 Icy Grey - KS Aircraft Grey (slightly greener) (Volcano Browns Triad 9760) 9178 Cinder Brown 9179 Volcano Brown - Reaper 9268 9180 Ashen Brown - MSP HD 29831 (Tropical Colors Triad 9761) 9181 Bright Coral 9182 Saffron sunset - Reaper 9247 9183 Cloud Pink - KS Reaper Punk rock Pink (Reptilian Greens Triad 9762) 9184 Serpentine Shadow 9185 Reptus Green 9186 Scaly Highlight (Sandy Colors Triad 9764) 9190 Sandy Brown - Reaper 9249 9191 Sandy Tan 9192 Sandy Yellow (Sea Blues Triad 9765) 9193 Stormy Sea 9194 Clouded Sea 9195 Seafoam Blue (Humanoid Skintones Triad 9768) 9202 Troll Shadow - MSP Stained Olive 29838 9203 Gnoll Brown 9204 Halforc Highlight (Reaper Ink II Triad 9771) 9211 Green Ink 9212 Blue Ink 9213 Purple Ink (Spring Greens Triad 9749) 9145 Moth Green - Reaper 9248 9146 Spring green - Reappaearance at RCon 2015 9147 Luminous Green - Reaper 9248 + 1 drop of white (Heavy Gear paints) RPR 61101 Terra Nova Tundra (Possible alternative: NMM gold?) RPR 61102 Macallen Brown RPR 61103 Redrider Crimson RPR 61104 Dune Shadow RPR 61105 Mekong Moss RPR 61106 Giant Fern RPR 61107 Okavango Swamp RPR 61108 Republique Red RPR 61109 Armadillo Tusk (hd) RPR 61110 White Sand RPR 61111 Paxton Red RPR 61112 War Paint Red RPR 61113 Arthurian Blue (hd) RPR 61114 Blue Crescent RPR 61115 Atlantean Aqua RPR 61116 Coated Armor RPR 61117 Factory White (Ghost white + Blue Flame perhaps?) RPR 61118 Grel Flesh RPR 61119 Afterburn Grey RPR 61120 Hazard Yellow (hd) RPR 61121 R.a.m. Black (hd) RPR 61122 Durasheet Alloy RPR 61123 Skunkworks Gunmetal RPR 61124 Beacon Yellow RPR 61125 Fallout Grey (hd) RPR 61126 Ash Grey RPR 61127 Waveform Aquamarine RPR 61128 Gamma Shielding Gold RPR 61129 Cat's Eye Umber (hd) RPR 61130 Cat's Eye RPR 61131 Red Dust RPR 61132 Drillbit Metal
  2. Hyjynx

    Paints for sale at Reapercon

    Forgive me if there is an obvious answer for this, I've never been to Reapercon before. I am needing quite a few Reaper paints. Will they be for sale at the Con? If so, would they have a Show discount? If not, I'll just go ahead and order some from Reaper now. Thanks
  3. Hello everyone! So I had to move cross-country about 2 1/2 years ago and had to box up all my hobby stuff. But now, circumstances require I get back into things (and I still have all those unpainted Bones IIs). So I managed to track down all my supplies and paints, but some settling may have occurred in transit - nearly all of my paints had fallen over from their upright positions and sat that way for the entire time. I have almost 40 bottles; most have been opened and used at least once, but none leaked at least. When turned upright the paints didn't immediately run down to the bottom, but they still slosh around when shaken. I haven't tried using them yet. Would they still be good, or should I take the loss, or is there a way to save them? Most are basic colors but a few were special promos that aren't being made again, and it would be a shame to lose those ☹️ Edit: I should clarify these are all Reaper paints.
  4. Mehman

    Paint It Black

    Right then, here's another question about the Reaper paint line. The last question was two months ago but I still feel like I'm bugging everyone. Anyway, I've decided to finally take the plunge and do some serious paint ordering for my solo game miniatures. Before I order at the end of the month (to get that Diva model for nothing), there seems to be a hiccup: there are a few different black paints in the line. I'm looking for a black to basecoat... black, funnily enough. There's Pure Black, Dragon Black, Noir Black, Nightmare Black, etc. Which of these (and the others not listed) would be closest to Citadel's Abaddon Black? Some of the blacks have a blue hue, brown hue, or whatever for different looks, but it's hard to tell from the sample mockups which ones have those hues and which don't. If anyone could break those down for me, I'd be grateful.
  5. Chrom.xh

    Chrom.xh's Little Project

    Hello every body, this will be here not to show off anything amazing or impressive. Just something that took me five and a half hours to do. Nothing to impressive or anything like that. Its a fairly simple paint job for this old miniature. It has been sitting on my portable painting desk for many years now, and I felt like it was time to finally paint it. So I could use it in Dungeons and Dragons if I ever played a Dwarf again or just to use in anything with Dwarves in it really. With the new system of being able to upload photos straight to here from a device, it may be a little weird. I have never used the new Reaper system for photos so lets see how it works. I will still be explaining everything to the best of my ability. All of the paints i used besides one were all Reaper Paints. So, lets get started. Okay, so these four photos are of the Dwarf miniature as a whole. I had to paint over the entire mini with black because it had taken some damage to the prime that covers it. After i had painted the entire thing I let it dry and took the pictures so I wouldn't forget to take them. Next I painted on the metallic colors that i knew i was going to do and I could see. This included the small amount of Chain mail showing under his massive beard, the large Warhammer and his shiled. These were done first in Shadowed Steel. Then I did the few detail pieces that I wanted in Antique Gold. After I painted those few things I realized that I hadn't painted the Rune Stone he is standing on. So I quickly mixed up a wash of the color... well Stone. I forget who the Stone wash is made by but I added some water and I think Glaze Medium. Chaoshead will yell at me in the comments to tell me i'm wrong since i was using most of his paints. Anyways, I did a couple of coats of the Stone wash and moved on to let that dry for a while. While I was letting the Stone wash dry I went on to other colors. I pulled the Rainy Grey out to do the fur that lines the inside of his cape, not realizing I had missed some it will show up later. This step was fairly easy when I was painting it on, but then again the entire thing to me seemed easy and I don't really know why. After the inside of the cape i moved on wards and started to paint Leather. I used Ruddy Leather for anything leather on the Miniature. I started with the gloves then moved on afterwards. Alright, in these few photos I painted more leather onto his sleeves, belt pouch, boots and the bottom of his Chain mail shirt. This step frustrated me because I accidentally painted over some of the metal, so I had to go back and paint the metallics again. I then moved on to some detail work that may have taken the most time to do... I think. On the Rune Stone, I used Breonne Blue to add some color to the... Stone. XD I wanted to paint the runes from the beginning of this small project. I think the Breonne was a good choice for the runes in the first place. Here I had finally painted his massive beard. I used Mahogany Brown for his beard since it was the only one within my small amount of paints that would work. I liked my choice of color for his beard though. In these three i painted the trim of the cape with the Ruddy Leather. I painted it very carefully to make sure I didn't get any on anything else. I already had to repaint Metallic colors earlier and i didn't want to do it again. Continuing with the cape i painted it Leaf Green and had to do it a couple of times to make sure it was one solid color. Painted the face with Tanned Skin and then used Grass Green to paint his eyes. Again this is all just a super simple paint job for this mini and is just meant to be a good, fun, little thing I like to do. As a final thing to finish this Miniature off was a nice little touch that I thought of last second. I painted the small heart on his cape with Blood Red. The Dwarf is done! He is done in all of the simplest ways to paint that I know how. XD If you all enjoyed and have some tips or anything to leave for myself. Please leave a comment and i guess stay tuned to here or another one I post in the future.
  6. Hi, i saw on amazon a paint mixer/stirrer that its similar to the ones for drinks or coffe, only this one is for hobbist paint, its brand is badger. I custom made one that its really similar to this one and actually fits inside reaper bottles. I just used it on some reaper and vallejo paints that i have for a while, some of them especially the vallejo ones were kind of gummy with pigment on the bottom, i used my custom stirrer and solved the issue! . Thing is, it works very well, but on reaper i feel as if it makes the paint less dense, and in some colours like pale saffron and lemon yellow this is more evident, is covers well but feels a little similar to watercolor in its consistency . Maybe its because the stirrer is quite potent and spins very fast, so wanted to ask help to anyone that have experience using a stirrer for mixing paint and also ask Anne Foerster or some people that actually work with the composition of paint, if any of you are seen this, please help ! ;) will really appreciate it. If i use this product can i harm the reaper paints that i have? Also on the other hand mixing the paint like this can have any positive effect as well? Thanks for all the help, i always count on this forum when i need some important facts or tips ;)
  7. ultrasquid

    Cheap paint sources

    At my friendly national chain home improvement store I found they sell mismixed paint colors at deep discounts. There I bought a 8 oz.(237 ml) sample pot of premium interior/exterior flat "paint and primer in one" for 50 cents. So I'm experimenting with using it as a primer for Bones. I will report on how it goes. In the meantime, feel free to discuss your budget alternatives.
  8. Right then, I've put together a list of some paints from Reaper that I plan to order this month (so that I can get that sweet, sweet 25th Anniversary model on the down-low). This is my first serious plunge into their paint line as I've really only ordered some paints for red hair - both natural and unnatural - and for a failed project in the distant past. The question is as follows: does this list of paint below encompass a fairly large scope for creating pale skin tones? Master Series Paint - Tanned Skin Triad - 09043 - Tanned Shadow 09044 - Tanned Skin 09045 - Tanned Highlight - Fair Skin Triad - 09046 - Fair Shadow 09047 - Fair Skin 09048 - Fair Highlight - Vampiric Skin Triad - 09274 - Vampiric Shadow 09275 - Vampiric Skin 09276 - Vampiric Highlight - Miscellaneous - 09062 - Leather White 09432 - Desert Sand 09436 - Bleached Linen 09447 - Undead Flesh Master Series Paint HD 29822 - Suntan Flesh 29823 - Caucasian Flesh 29824 - Maiden Flesh 29850 - Elfin Flesh Any advice or guidance would be appreciated.
  9. rubberbandman

    Pigments vs paints??

    So I just dropped nearly 100$ at my FLGS on reaper master series paints, only to discover upon closer inspection that they are actually pigments. I'm a beginner/moderate painter, so I didn't quite realize there was a difference. After conversing with one of my more hardcore painter friends, i'm even less sure than I was before. He tells me that the pigments are different from the paints and that pigments are usually only used to tint paints, but then i went to the website and saw that everything there comes in the same kind of bottles with all the same names. It seems strange to me that reaper would sell only pigments and not paints, and now I'm very very confused. So let me just pose this simple question: I purchased this bottle, and many others like it: Can I paint my Bones minis with this and some water? and as a follow up question: Did i just bone myself out of 100 bucks?
  10. Right then. I'm looking to switch to Reaper paints from Citadel for various reasons and would like to know if there are any tips or tricks for doing this. I figure this forum is the best place to ask. Plus, I like you people already. Y'all are my kind of people. Well, most of you. Except that one person... I've gotten a spreadsheet off the intertubes that has a rough guess about colour matches for the two ranges (including a few others, too) so I know which paints are similar. I'm going to continue to use Citadel's metallic and shade range as I'm used to the former and the latter are better than anything else I've seen barring what I can create - that is, unless someone can convince me otherwise. Here's my biggest problem: I own most of the range from the other company. I think I'm missing two colours out of the bunch. Should I bother switching at this point? Am I too far in to do this? It's not like I'm running out of paint every week - those paint pots last a while in this house - so replacing them as they get used is going to take a long time. That's fine, I guess. I just want the shiny new stuff now. Other than replacement, is there anything else I need to know to ease the process? Blocks of 54 paints at a time seems reasonable enough but, then again, this is coming from the guy that buys all the models for one solo campaign just to switch to another setting. That level of "reasonable" is what you're working with on this query. If this isn't in the right place for this post, please move it / delete it / kill it with fire. I'm still figuring the in's and out's of this particular forum. (I did notice there was no reception table in the lobby, though.)
  11. While fixing up the hobby room for the fiancee we came across the age old problem of Not Enough Places to Put Things. She likes to do acrylic canvas painting and I like to use the craft paints for terrain so we have a bit. We both like seeing what colors we have available as we work on a project and I wanted something that wouldn't clutter the work table or take up valuable shelf space. We've got several big windows in the room and while the natural light is great, the limit the amount of shelves we can have. I opped to try and make use of some of the dead space created by the window frames. 1-1/2" standard Schedule 40 PVC pipe fits the standard 2oz bottles well. I used a band saw to cut the pieces quickly. I used a fence to make sure all the pieces came out the same length. (marking it out >150 times would have been a pain) While quick, my saw left some debris. A quick twist with some 60 grit sandpaper took it right off and put a very slight bevel on the edge. All sanded and ready to go. Did a quick test fit with a bottle of paint and tried a few layout options. My goal was to fill the trim board on either side of the windows with storage tubes. Since we may sell the house some day I didn't want to mount the tubes direct to the trim. I opted to attach the tubes together, letting most of the weight sit on the table and then use a small metal bracket in the top side of the window trim which is often unpainted because nobody looks up there. I wanted something that I could pop off easily if I got sloppy with with the glue so I laid everything out on a piece of concrete board siding. It had the added featured of it was flat, had a straight edge I could line the pieces up on and I could draw out my trim dimensions so I knew what area I had to fill. I used the same glue that is used to glue the pipe together for plumbing. The stuff I get for work happens to be grey. You get what you pay for when it comes to glue so don't scrimp.Just don't get the stuff that is for wet or submerged pipe. It will literally push your parts around. Since I knew we were going to paint the whole thing I didn't care what color I had or if the printing on the pipe was visible. I made marks with a sharpie to show where the pieces touched so I'd know where to apply the glue once I picked it up. It also made sure I had the glue covered portion in the right spot when I put it in place. Got all my ducks lined up, Just gotta let it dry over night. I could actually pick it up after an hour but I wanted to give it plenty of time to fully set up. I ended up adding one more row after this picture to get it close to the top of the window trim. After everything was painted I screwed a small strip of metal to the top to let me screw it to the trim. If you look at the top of the center organizer, you can see the metal bracket. It is bent in an L shape so the screw is in the top of the trim, not the front. The larger units are done with 4" drain pipe (Thinner wall=cheaper per foot) One coat of glue made them stick together but I had to do several more coats to get some structural rigidity. I just used standard pray paint to cover them.
  12. So for a while now I've been incorporating the dark elf skin triads into my washings and shading quite a lot depending on the colors, but they are becoming kind of common for me. Does anybody else use them for the same purpose? Just curious....
  13. So I've gotten into OSL and I wanted to find some MUCH brighter paints and I've always wanted them. So what do you guys prefer? Any recommendation? My search has only included those from Reaper: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Bright
  14. Dilvish the Deliverer

    Comparison of MSP Gold/Bronze

    So, I'm currently working on painting up Wyrmgear. I'm going for a brass, bronze, gold color; I've got several different MSP metallic paints so I decided to test them out to see which ones looked good or I could use for some TMM shading/highlighting. So I ran some lines of each color on a piece of paper. knarthax was on the hangouts and he said that other people might want to know the results so I snapped a quick pic with my phone. Here are the results. The cross at the top is Clockwork Brass (horizontal line) over Drillbit Metal. Both colors are very close to each other which is surprising as they look very different wet on the palette. I hope this helps someone. If needed, I can take a picture with a better camera and better lighting sometime later.
  15. SparrowMarie

    Burnt Umber?

    So I have a bottle of Burnt Umber paint I bought a while ago and no matter how much I shake it it comes out very watery like a wash, is it supposed to be like this or did I get I bad batch, or something else entirely?
  16. Finnman

    Reaper Paint Sets

    Hello all, I'm new to the forum, but have been following a few threads for painting help and inspiration. I'm currently working on painting my first two models after following a number of tutorials (Hot Lead, Forums etc.), and I'm using the Master Series Core Colors Set #1 (108 paints) which is a fantastic set and has pretty much all I need as a beginner. I've got quite a few minis that I plan to paint, and I can't help but wonder what I'm missing with some of the other MSP sets, particularly this one: https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/paint%20set/sku-down/09957 Does this effectively "complete" the entire MSP collection of colours following Set #1? Are there additional colours and sets that have been released since then? Also, generally speaking, what does this set add to Set #1 in terms palette and products? It'd be nice if there was a breakdown for each of Reaper's paint set offerings, to understand completely what they contain, what they add to your arsenal (complimenting other sets, general purpose or specific function) etc. I'd love to know what I'm missing and where else I should invest in expanding my paint collection. Any information would be greatly appreciated! Also I'll post some WIP soon (although I'm close to complete so I may just post the final result). Cheers! -Finn
  17. Okay so, we got a new person in my gaming group and he wants to learn how to paint, simple enough. Right? Except he asked me to teach him and in my ecstasy I said, YES. Then I realized I have no idea how to teach someone how to paint. So, that's a minor problem. I would ask my father but in many ways I have surpassed his painting skills (not bragging, or at least not tring to) and he gets kinda grumpy when I ask him about stuff. Thus my dilemma, I don't want to send my friend to a video or whatever because it's easier to learn from a live person. So, help?
  18. Due to some awful circumstances I lost my entire Reaper set of Bones III Kickstarter figures and my entire set of Reaper paints. This caused me to step away from the hobby for awhile, due not only to not having paints but I felt a little heart-broken over the whole thing. (Mostly my paints, I had spent years building up my set of Reaper paints including some of their awesome limited edition ones they gave away during events.) However, it is time for me to wallow no longer and a trip to a local shop this past weekend has had me purchase some paints to jump start my passion for the hobby again. In the past I have only ever used Reaper and Citadel paints (Citadel paints are freaking awful, the way the yellows dry up after you've barely used them once... might as well be tossing money at a brick wall) so am keen to stick with what I know. I have however just purchased some Vallejo and Army Painter paints and washes due to the fact that no-where local stocks Reaper paints in store. I am avoiding Game Color paints as well because although my local store stocks them I have heard nothing but bad things about the stuff. I just purchased a few Army Painter tones and the Vallejo skin tone set. (The skin tone set has some handy dandy how-to inside as well.) This is enough to let me get a few licks of paint on some minis I have on hand but I am doing some research on the most cost effective way to restock the diverse inventory I had in one foul swoop. I've been looking into various Reaper sets (are the triads no longer a thing any more?) and am tossing up between the 'building your own paint set' and the pre-packed Reaper Master Series Bones Paint Complete Set: https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/set/sku-down/09966 I just had some fun in Photoshop pasting together swatches of all 54 colours in the set for easy reference: This set is $184.99 for 54 paints, which is $3.51USD per bottle, the same price as the 'build your own paint set' for the same number. That's $4.68AUD which is still cheaper than the $6 for Vallejo paints I can get at my local gaming store. Given that I don't use metallic paints much at all and I am fairly set for skin tones I suppose it would be better for me to build my own paint set. In that vein, are there any colours that anyone really recommends I get? A colour you personally love and find yourself running out of more often than not?
  19. I'm a big fan of Vallejo acrylics and similar, in convenient little dropper-bottles, but they suffer from the same issues that almost all paints do, and that is that the pigments tend to settle out of the medium. They have to be stirred or agitated to mix the two components to get good, even coverage. I've shaken the bottles manually for years, but I finally got sick of that and decided to go for a mechanical solution. This is a very cheap jigsaw. Brand new, it cost me about twenty-five bucks, but if you're even stingier than that, they're easy enough to come by second-hand. I wrapped the blade with multiple layers of masking tape. This serves several functions: I'm less likely to accidentally cut myself (or anything else) It provides a visual guide as to where the blade buries itself into the body of the machine. A paint bottle can't go below that point or it will be knocked off as the blade oscillates. It provides a fairly good non-slip padded surface to keep everything in place while the saw is running. I considered attaching some rubber non-slip mat with double-sided tape, but I haven't found that necessary — the masking tape appears to do the job adequately. I experimented with various means of attaching the paint bottles — rubber bands (too fiddly), little spring clamps (OK, but too small a contact area, and they tended to crush the bottle) — and finally settled on this one. It's a simple paper clip with a long curved barrel that provides good, firm attachment. I haven't yet had a bottle come free using this. For best results, one should add one or two agitators to each bottle of paint — short lengths of pewter sprue work well. But I've got a lot of bottles of paint, so I tend not to bother except with especially problematic mixes. This thing will give me the equivalent of half an hour of manual shaking in about 30 seconds, and it generally does the job just fine. One note: I've found that vigorous shaking sometimes seems to pressurize a bottle of acrylic paint slightly, probably due to bubbles forming. If there's paint in the neck of the dropper, this can cause a small volcano of paint when the bottle is opened, so I've taken to whacking the bottle base-down on my workbench a couple of times after shaking just to clear the dropper before opening.
  20. A while ago someone posted about Ral Patha Fire Glow paint. Just used it on this Water Elf Naiad guy. Just wanted to post something to show it off. Don't get a chance to use it that often. Is such a beautiful metallic that is so vibrant. Shame that the pic doesn't really show the reddish pink undertones in the paint. Kind of a mother of pearl effect. If there is one paint I wish Reaper could reproduce this would be one of them.
  21. Something to excite all you brushlickers out there. http://www.iflscience.com/chemistry/this-new-shade-of-blue-was-accidentally-discovered-by-chemists/
  22. Hey guys back again with the mighty Deathsleet. I decided to go crazy with colour to make this dragon stick in peoples memories! I decided he would definitively be a Gold dragon in my campaign but have powerfully magic charged wing membranes! So here we have it the gaudy gilded Deathsleet! I had an absolute blast painting this great mini! As always your comments are wanted and appreciated!!
  23. Garomero

    Reaper Vampire mini

    Hey guys my submission for today is the cool Reaper Vampire! He wasnt a complicated model to paint I had fun and hope you love it he is a great addition to my ever growing Dungeons and Dragons campaign! As always comments are wanted and appreciated!
  24. Garomero

    Reaper Frost Wyrm

    Hey guys back with the fearsome Frost Wyrm!! I painted this guy in semi traditional colours! I really hope you like this one and as always comments are wanted and very much appreciated! If anyone wants to add me as a friend I would be honored! I love to discuss painting schemes!
  25. Garomero

    Verocithrax (Koi carp) Dragon

    Hey guys back again and this time I painted the mighty verocithrax this amazing figure was very exciting to paint I decided to emulate Koi carp in painting the dragon I feel it fits well! As always comments are wanted and appreciated!
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