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Found 153 results

  1. New to the hobby and wondering both what people use to thin their paints, and whatever other 'essential' mixes are in your painting caddy. FLGS carries primarily Reaper MS paints/additives, so that's the stock I'm learning on. Planning on getting some empty dropper bottles soon, and trying to figure out what'd be most useful to put in them. I've seen a few stickied tutorials/threads with some info, but most are a few years old, and have either dead links, or are based off older paints, so I'm curious what works best with the current formulas. So - do you have a particular favorite mix? Does it vary for base coats, layers, washes, etc? Metallics? Metal vs Bones? Basically, what's your homebrew secret?
  2. Hello! I'll apologize right now if this isn't in the best place for it. I am a painting virgin, having only flirted with craft paint and plastic army men; but I think I'm ready for the big one. I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of the Bones 2 Kickstarter, and I want to have the widest variety of colors to cover the most situations. I am purchasing the Bones LtPK durring this glorious promotion that Reaper is doing, and I will have the first MSP HD paint add-on from the KS. Given the paint that comes in each, what colors/items am I missing that would help me have the widest range of colors for the best price? (I only need an item or two to get up to the $40 threshold to qualify for the Ghoulie bag). For help's sake, I will list the colors I will have below. 9030- Leather Brown 9037- Black 9039- White 9053- Honed Steel 9054- Polished Silver 9085- Shadowed Stone 9200- Harvest Brown 9228- Viper Green 9271- Dirty Bone 29801- Crimson Red 29806- Fireball Orange 29809- Pale Saffron x2 29811- Turf Green 29815- Dragon Blue x2 29820- Gem Purple 29822- Suntan Flesh 29823- Caucasian Flesh 29827- Griffon Tan 29829- Woodland Brown 29830- Ruddy Brown 29832- Concrete Grey Are there any glaring holes in my color selection? Are there any recommendations you have for what I should get in the name of variety and coverage? Is Reaper's brush-on primer worth it? I look forward to reading your wisdom! Thanks! IryokuHikari
  3. I'm pretty sure this will not affect Reaper paint at all (it being non-toxic and all). But I wonder what other paints out there that miniature painters use might be affected? http://online.wsj.com/articles/an-obituary-for-color-yellow-orange-and-red-1412718962
  4. I've been thinking about scanning paint swatches in digitally to get RGB / CMYK interpretations of them lately. I remember there being an old database where someone had done some of this that is now gone. Looking over my photography equipment here I realize I have a spectrophotometer that I use to calibrate all of my photo printers and monitors. So it seems to me it should be just as good at scanning color swatches of paint and getting RGB / CMYK values for them as well. If it works then I could have a database of these that could be useful for finding similar colors from other paint brands past and present. It will also get me into seeing all of my colors and giving all of my paints good shakes as a bonus. So I want to give this a try with a few colors and see how well it does work. But my problem is when I create these color swatches, what should I paint them on? So that is my question for the more art and paint experienced people here, what would be a good paper or material to use to make these swatches on? Is there something specific in the art world that would make a good place to paint on?
  5. I took a night off from painting to get myself organised a bit. See, I have one of those 4 drawer plastic carts (without the wheels) that I use for most of my art supplies. All of my mini paints are tossed in one of those drawers and every time I open the drawer, they fall over. On top of that, all of the lids look basically the same so it's hard to tell which brand I am grabbing and don't even get me started on how hard it is to find my brown liner when I need it. So, I took a trip to my local dollar store and bought some supplies and made something to help organize my paints so that I can find what I need. Hopefully this will help someone who has similar issues. Supplies List: 2 Foam core boards (got mine from the dollar store. they can be any color you like, I got black ones) Hot glue gun hot glue (I used about 3 small sticks) Hobby knife or box cutter straightedge would be helpful tape measure TOTAL COST $3 and I'll just put this disclaimer here... HOT GLUE GUNS ARE HOT, KNIVES ARE SHARP, AND FOAM COR COULD GIVE YOU A PAPER CUT. USE THE SUPPLIES CAREFULLY AND AS INTENDED! I'M NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR PAIN! Assembly and cutting took about 4 episodes (without commercials) of "Once upon a time" (3 hours ish) To begin, here is a pic of my paint drawer before all of this started. You can see my frustration. Start by measuring your drawers perimeter and decide how high you want your foam core to go. in my case the perimeter was 19" x 12" witha 2" height. I then cut a bunch of 2" strips from the foam core. since none of my measurements were longer than the width of my boards, I cut along the width leaving shorter pieces and more of them per board. I didn't count how many I cut and your size and amount may vary based on the style of drawer you use. Here are some of the strips and the perimeter set into the drawer to show how it fits. I did intentionally leave space at the front of the drawer. Now, using your hot glue gun, lay a bead of glue on the edges of your sides and glue them to the front and back pieces giving you a square/rectangle. fit it into your drawer to make sure it fits to your liking. Now, set a row of paints along one side and cut another strip to fit along side them like you see in the pic. If you glue the edges of the sides to the front/back then your dividers should be the same measurement as the side pieces. In my case, I needed 12" strips between each row of paints. Put hot glue on the edges of the divider then set it in place and press it against the paints and against the front/ back pieces. The hot glue dries quickly so it won't take long for it to set. You'll also notice the smaller divider to the left. i originally was going to give each pot its own square spot to sit. However once I got the first one in place, I noticed I could easily get 12 pots in each row with only once small divider in place. This allowed more paint post to fit in my drawer. Sadly, id didn't realize this until after I had glued the first one off-center. the rest of the dividers have a small one set in the middle so that each section can hold 6 pots of paint I should mention that for the most part, many of my paint pots are about the same size diameter. So Reaper, Vallejo, Secret Weapon, and army painter should all fit in each others slots. These will net 6 pots per section. P3 and Tamiya and possibly GW paint (not sure as I don't own any GW paint) are larger bottles and need a wider space. Keep this in mind when setting up your dividers. Here you can see how each section can hold 6 pots and each row hods 12 (2 sections). Just keep hot gluing the strips and dividers in place. at this point, I was getting ready for the larger paint pots. And finally, here is the finished piece with all of my paints organised. In my configuration, I can hold 132 pots of Reaper, Vallejo, Secret Weapon, or Army Painter and 30 P3 pots and 8 tamiya pots. I also have room in the front to hold my super glues. I may even figure something out in the front to hold my most used paint brushed horizontally. Due to height issues (my pots barely are short enough to shut the drawer) i didn't put a bottom on this, I just used the drawer bottom so I can't safely remove this and carry it around, but if your drawers are taller than mine, then you could feasibly put a bottom on and have a carrying caddy. You could also double stack them this way if you needed. If you were so inclined and had the space, you could add more small dividers as well. really you could make this however you wanted, this is just how mine worked out. And for a total cost for about $3, it was worth it. Now I need to go organize my basing drawer....
  6. So I was thinking of creating a thread where people could show off some of the nifty one-off colours we sometimes get as 'samples' from the awesome folks at Reaper. Would that be an OK thing with the Powers That Be? If so where would such a thread be appropriate? I'd like for people to be able to post pics of their sample colours but Show Off doesn't seem like the right place. Thanks for any guidance in this!
  7. I have three free sample paints that have come with my various orders over the years, They are nice paints and currently getting some use on my Relic Knights and Bones minis. There is just one problem I don't know what they are called so when I run out I won't be able to get more I have some sort of dark purple, a dark metallic purple and a light purple. I'm not sure I understand why they aren't labeled, surely they would provide more benefit to reaper if I could order more of the color when it runs out. Also being somewhat color blind make the non labeling problematic as well. I thought my newest one, the light purple, was blue, until my wife pointed it out to me as I was painting my Pathfinder mites. Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining about free stuff, (I was quite pleased to see the bottle of paint in my last order) I'm just confused as to the reasoning behind not labeling the free samples. Also any guesses as to what colors I have would be appreciated. The lighter purple and the metallic purple are certainly ones I'll need to replace eventually. edit:added the word "wife" to where I mention her.
  8. I've got my bionoid girly all sculpted and primed. Finally. Now the problem is how the fark am I going to paint her. I'd really like her to have the colours of those iridescent scarab beetles. I have no idea how to achieve this effect though, especially on something so tiny. Can anyone give me pointers? Examples of desired effect (I'd like mine to be more purpley though):
  9. Yo, folks. Questions: 1. When using a wash, how does one decide what color to use? I'm working with the Reaper triad, and I also picked up three Citadel shades the other day. Reaper's black I think I get. It gives a lining sort of effect and black shadows, in my early experimenting. The brown seemed to do pretty much obvious stuff with the mini I've tried it on--dirtied it up, gave it some shadows not quite so dark as the black but entirely noticeable. Would it be an avenue to explore for weathering/aging/whatevering wood and/or leather? The flesh wash--should I be trying to hit faces and hands with it? Save it for more scantily-clad minis? Something altogether else? I've also got some Athonian Camoshade, Agrax Earthshade, and Drakenhof Nightshade. So basically a green, a brown, and a blue wash. Unless I'm totally misreading. The Athonian I haven't used. What situations should I be looking at for a greenish wash? The Agrax seems pretty comparable to Reaper's brown. Is it? I haven't used it yet. I picked it up because everyone seems to swear by it--seems like I've seen it talked about with everything from skeletons to wood to leather. Thoughts and/or advice? I tried out the Drakenhof on a wizard's pale bluish robes with the hopes of both shadowing and blue-ing up the color as well. It seemed to work on both counts (though I wasn't entirely thrilled with the mini, but nevermind that). Was that a reasonable idea? What other considerations/situations should I keep in mind with this one? Or am I totally off the reservation with all this? 2. I'm painting a piece right now, and I mixed up a nice chocolate brown for a robe. I'm getting ready to highlight and got to thinking--should I vary up my colors with highlighting? I've been aiming for very-light versions of the base color. What would happen if I tried highlighting with something else? Is that a thing? Like, go with a yellow on a brown or some such? Or a red or orange or something? I feel like this question particularly makes less sense than it did when I was thinking about it earlier.
  10. Hi all, I'm a complete noob at painting and my debut will be with the Bones II Kickstarter. I know the Learn to Paint Kits are awesome, but I can't find them anywhere. I live in Brazil, have a limited budget (can afford 14 paints) and want to buy them until the end of August. (Import fees will increase by December) I wonder if I'm choosing the 14 best colors. Can you tell me if I'm doing it right? Pure White Pure Black Linen White Brown Liner Blue Sapphire Leaf Green Sun Yellow Carnage Red Chestnut Brown Walnut Brown Tanned Skin Aged Bone Fair Highlight Vallejo Steel An these are the miniatures that I will be painting: Lords of Darkness x1 Gelatinous Cube x1 Greater Demons x1 Devils x1 Cinder Dragon x1 Troll Slayer Sophie x2 Barbarians x1 Khanjira, the World Breaker x1 Dragons Don't Share x1 6 Goblins (Bones I) 6 Kobolds (Bones I) 9 Skeletons (Bones I) Thanks in advance! Any tips and suggestions would be appreciated!
  11. Hey, all! I'm a local-ish guy (down in Addison) wondering about the free Reaper Paint Club on Saturdays from 12-4. I have a few questions for all the veterans: 1) I'm an uber-n00b at painting. Though I hear all levels are welcome, will I be too out of place if I come? 2) I should have all the materials I need, but is there anything I SHOULD'NT bring that will already be there? 3) About how many people show up on any given weekend? Thanks in advance for your answers!
  12. Hey, all. I posted before in the stripping guide but figured it'd be best not to eff it up anymore. I've started trying to strip some lead (supposedly pewter, but the models are lead, from my research) miniatures from the 80's. I was really excited about the pieces, and I got a great deal, but they were previously painted--a kid's work, from the looks of it. I've never dealt with this before, but I'm guessing they're enamel paints. They're very shiny and glossy to look out, very smooth to the touch. I was ready to blast in with acetone and strip the mothas down. Only it's not working! A couple pieces on a six-hour soak followed by good scrubbing with a tooth brush has yielded little result. I decided to give them longer, added in more miniatures and let them go overnight. twelve-hour and eighteen-hours scrubs have produced little to no mentionable results. The acetone's turned murky, so something's happening, but I'm not losing the paint in any significant way. My understanding was that the acetone should be quick and effective, so obviously I need to try something else, right? I'll keep giving the minis currently soaking in acetone more time. Should I periodically change the acetone out, though, or stick with what's in there? What else might be good for removing tough old paints? We're looking at the toughest of the tough, apparently. I know a lot of folks swear by Simple Green, so I picked a jug up and have started soaking several minis in it. My understanding is that it can take 24 hours to tell whether it's really doing it, though. So I'll probably just leave it until tomorrow morning (maybe check it tonight, just to see). Sound about right? This a good option under the circumstances? I've also got a can of lacquer thinner. I'm going to try it this afternoon, most likely. I'm good with handling chemicals (licensed for all manner of nasty stuff thanks to my job), but still not really excited about it. Feel like this is hedging toward the nuclear. I'd love advice about these methods, and I'm certainly open to other suggestions. Any wisdom y'all have is greatly appreciated.
  13. Has anyone out there tried the Scale75 paints yet? They look interesting. Especially the NMM sets to help a person starting off on that technique. But the colors themselves look quite nice. Just wondered how well they worked in practice before getting a set for trial.
  14. hi people i been painitng for a few months now but thought i would post a few pics on here and see what people think. this is my first ever mini was actually impressed with myslef on this with it being my first. well apart from the face any way
  15. So today Dilvish and I went to visit Aard_Rinn and she gave me three cool brushes. (Thanks again Aard!) When I got home I immediately started to work on a serving wench for my D&D group, our last in school meet is next Friday. After I finished with everything Dilvish said the tomorrow he would teach me how to highlight hair on my minnies! I'm so excited! I'm gonna be posting picture of it as soon as I finish.
  16. I rarely buy Model Railroader anymore, it is just not geared to my demographic. However, in the March 2014 issue there is a good article titled Hobby Paint Roundup. If you are interested in other brands of paint that might be useful to you its worth picking up. The biggest issue I had with it is that some how they managed to cover Citadel Paint but not Reaper or Badger for that matter. I filled out their online letter to the editor section chastising for missing the American made competition to Citadel paint - Reaper! The article gives information on whether its safe on plastic, what the airbrush dilution is as well as a psi range. Clean up information and a comments section. It covers: Vallejo Model Color, Vallejo Model Air, Com-Art (Iwata), Citadel, Humbrol, Italeri, Lifecolor, Microlux, Model Master/Create FX, Private Stock, Scalecoat I and II (not Scale75!), Tamiya, and Tru-color,
  17. I'm curious about how people feel about the following limited paint colors: Deadrose Red Bubblegum Pink Christmas Wreath Powderburn Brown Pirate Gold Carnival Purple Clouded Sea Clockwork Brass Big Top Red Ginger Cookie Breast Cancer Awareness Pink Reptilian Green I have read many great things about ones like Clockwork Brass. But I would be curious to know (and assume others would also) how people have used these colors on their figures. How might you highlight, shade, or base coat with them. Any general feelings on what makes the color good or how you have used and liked them. And ONLY comments about the paint colors and your opinions on them please! Let's keep on topic about usage and similar things.
  18. I can't believe no one here has mentioned the paints that Reaper is teasing us with in our swag bags and from the banquet gift bags on the ReaperCon Facebook page.... so I guess I'm going to do it! These are the 3 that are in the swag bag I believe. And they talk of 6 more in each of the banquet gift bags as well. Wonder what the other colors will be?
  19. Has anyone tried these paints on the bones yet? Just picked up an airbrush and was wondering if anyone used these yet.
  20. Yay more paint! More colours! Looks like a couple more weeks for those who didn't order the new paint colours from the first Bones kickstarter. http://www.reapermini.com/misc/distributionphotos/01-06-14.pdf
  21. since we seem to get a lot of questions on paint (some from myself included) I thought I'd start this in the hopes we can all add to it. I'm hoping to try and limit it to the last 2 years so that we don't have reviews of old formulas, etc..
  22. Hello all, As Reaper doesn't include any descriptions (that I could find) on the properties of their Liners, Clears, Inks & Pastels, does anyone have a good knowledge of their characteristics? Like what are they primarily used for, are they more fluid, more dense, brighter, translucent? I think they are used for more vibrant and flowy washing effects? I'm thinking of buying $35 worth of Reapers' Ink & liner triads and maybe a clear and a pastel and some other different/special paints in order to get a free gift Sophie. Recommendations on these and other of Reapers' special paint products or neat colors would be appreciated. I can't decide whether to get Buron Street Sophie or Cowgirl Sophie.... *mind blows up* I'm primarily painting Bones minis with a modest selection of MSP core colors (2-3 of each of the 12ish main colors) help
  23. I'm coming back to Miniatures painting after a long leave of absence and as a result I don't have much of a paint collection, at least not yet. I'm building it slowly. My wife used to paint on canvas and I've inherited her acrylic paint kit (she doesn't anymore.) She has a whole host of colors in the tubes, I don't have the brand at the moment. I've tried using them in minor ways, but I've been fairly cautious as I'm thinking it might obscure details. So far I've thinned some down with water and acrylic medium (I bought a small tube at the hobby store, of late I've also tried using Pledge,) and used them a bit - I found the yellow and red don't cover well, the burnt sienna does a bit better, but I think I've had some success in thinning them down a lot and using them as washes - I've done a nice dark green wash and a purple wash. Does anyone have any advice? Anything I should be careful of? I can get the brand later this evening. I believe most of the colors are reasonably high end (well, probably not high end, but not rock-bottom,) the green and bright red look considerably cheaper.
  24. Reference point for specific paints that are both good, and bad as a first coat onto Bones. Good paints exhibit little to no rub off: bad paints rub or flake off extremely easily. Good Paints RMS Brown Liner RMS Blue Liner Bad Paints RMS Walnut Brown VMC Green RMS Pure Black Specify the paint brand. Please post below with examples. People should also specify what was done to the mini prior to using the problem paint (washing/rinsing, priming (with what), etc.). That way, we can pin down whether it's an issue with a specific paint, an issue with a specific primer, or a combination of the two (or some other factor). Credit to OneBoot for several useful suggestions. No warranty implied. I reserve the right to be wrong, mistaken, or full of crap. No batteries included.
  25. I've finished Ezren (I think) (Bones sculpted by Todd Harris). Rather happy with the outcome. My first face, first eyes, first clothes etc. Also the first base I've 'decorated' - that was fun. I think of Ezren as fighting on a blighted heath or tundra. The staff droops, but I did fix it. I did!! However we've had some rather warm days (Spring here) and I can only guess this allowed the staff to return to the shape inwhich it arrived. I envisioned Ezren as a practical wizard, of a rich family who suppy him shirts etc when he drops in but he wears practical clothing and carries all he needs so he is self-sufficient. That was the background to the colours I chose. Colours: Model Air Cam. Dark Green; Reaper Tanned Leather and Leather Brown with Citadel Sepia wash and a touch of red and so on to change tones a little. Oh and Reaper aged Bone for the shirt.
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