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Found 322 results

  1. One of our players is playing an Adamant Caste Alchemical in a game of Exalted (2nd ed., heavily modded). Info about them is semi-classified by the GM, but they seem to be sort of crystalline with interchangeable parts, a little like cyborgs. The Numenera Jack with the crossbow (or pickaxe?) arm seemed a decent fit, as the character is supposed to be somewhat androgynous. Here is the figure mounted on a fender washer for stability, primed white and washed with Burnt Umber.
  2. Some years back I acquired a starter box of the Khaliman Republic (basically Egyptian cat people) for the French wargame Alkemy. They are the first small-scale resin I've ever assembled or painted. Anyhow, one of our gamers wished to play a Ceilican (magical were-cat) in a heavily modded World of Darkness campaign. Of the five figures in the set this one appealed the most. It appears to be a sort of lynx-man but with a long tail. There may be some flash or something. I've been reluctant to get too slicey with the resin. Here the figure is primed white and washed with thinned Burnt Umber.
  3. So my husband is running a game this Saturday and he asked "Do you have any robot figures?" and I said "Ummm, let me get back to you." Happily, I had on hand a copy of Patrick Keith's 50246, "Marie She-Bot" familiar to film aficionados from Fritz Lang's seminal "Metropolis". I also had a handful of little robots from Johnny Lauck's Salvage Crew. So I glued them together and primed them and painted them very simply with metallic paints. The whole thing took less than an hour. For metallics I use the principles I learned for gilding: Everything has a color underneath it, usually a rust-red for gold and a black or grey for silver (or aluminum or palladium -- I never could bring myself to gild with something that could decay as fast as silver leaf). I originally planned to paint the Metropolis robot gold, so I primed her with Red Iron Oxide. Then I did the same with a little monkey-robot from Johnny Lauck (ignore the two little guys to the right; I didn't get further than this with them and I plan to paint them like plastic anyway, if I get to them before Saturday). Then my husband pointed out that if I painted the Metropolis robot silver she could stand in for a Moonsilver Alchemical later on. D'oh! ... Okay, so now I was going to see what silver paint looks like over brick red. For science! I washed over the two red robots with dark paint to bring out the details: Burnt Umber on the little monkeybot, as is normal for under a warm color like gold. But then I used straight Carbon Black on Maria She-Bot since she was going to be cold silver, and black generally looks cold under other colors. I notice that she looks just like the Chinese lacquer sculptures I've seen around, a point worth remembering to try some other time, perhaps. I also painted black primer on the servo on the left, another Johnny Lauck 'bot. I had to glue that one to a fender washer as it had a tendency to topple over to its left; otherwise its base had been the same size as the other Lauck robots. That's also why it appears now; its glue was setting while I was priming the others. (Once again, ignore the two on the right.) I then took my good #2 Winsor and Newton series 7 brush and drybrushed silver metallic paint onto the armed servo Lauck 'bot and Marie, She-Bot. ... I find using good brushes helps give a lot of control and evenness, even for this. This wasn't the really scrabbly kind of drybrushing anyway, more like stroking tiny amounts of unthinned paint over the high points of a countoured surface. Anyhow, you can see the different color effects based on what went under the silver paint, black on the left and brick red on the right. You can also see the detail level difference between Johnny Lauck's sculpt and Patrick Keith's. Then I did the same thing, only using gold metallic paint, to the Johnny Lauck monkey robot. I painted their bases solid black. Normally I like a base with at least a neutral grey with shadows, but I was in a hurry and the black contrasted better with their metallic shininess. I also added a few details, red eyes on the Lauck robots and a glowing yellow inside the armed Lauck bot's gun barrel (Which I see I didn't take pictures of. Need to fix that for the Show Off thread). And there you have it. Really really fast quick and dirty robot painting. Total painting time: About forty minutes. (With prep time, work time is probably an hour, or a smidgen more)
  4. This is Reaper's 02480, Sabertooth Tiger, sculpted by Jason Wiebe. It's a nice muscular rendition of the Ice Age critter. This is my standard priming, with a thin coat of Titanium White paint (Golden matte fluid acrylic) and a wash of Burnt Umber afterwards. It reminds me of a lynx in general aspect, so I plan to paint it with more or less a lynx's coloration. The first thing I did was paint a sickly green, mixed from Yellow Ochre and Carbon Blck, over the base. I like to paint thinly enough so underlayers show through, to make things look more realistic. This works well for fur too. ... I couldn't help but notice that that skull underneath the creature is mighty small. Like, child sized. Next: Fur!
  5. My husband is running a game of more-or-less-Exalted (2nd ed.) set in the more-or-less World of Darkness (2nd ed.) ("But rather less than more," as W.S. Gilbert wrote -- it has been given the complete Neil Gaiman-Alan Moore historico-mythological treatment, about which I can expound elsewhere and another time, 'cos it's a really fun game). One of the PCs is playing a mage of the Sons of Ether who has taken to proffering therapy to would-be reformed werewolves and vampires, who Exalted as a solar of the Twilight caste. If this means nothing to you, don't worry about it. He's a modern-day Scottish mage who has suddenly gotten an infusion of even more magey power. This is my standard starting point, the mini glued to a base, primed white, and washed with Burnt Umber.
  6. So there is this skirmish game, "Wild in the Streets" by Slow Death Games. Member FishNJeeps alerted me to it at Adepticon last month after I told him I was looking for minis of unarmed women in good street clothes for some friends. (Thanks, FishNJeeps!) I'm really grateful he did, because they had two sets of skirmishers that had a lot of promise. This figure is from the "Murder Cult Girls" set, which otherwise is a little goofy but has this one figure that really appealed to my friend. (I also got the "Goth" set which looks like it will prove mighty useful.) I just had to get rid of the big knife in her hand (the Goths are mostly unarmed, interestingly). I'm no expert with a knife, but I clipped and filed until ... well, until she had a sort of a clumsy mitt of a hand a little awkwardly held out. Hum. Not to worry because I had a brainstorm a little later. Here she is (left) primed with a thin layer of Titanium White and a wash of Burnt Umber. I've already started painting her skin in with mixes of Titanium White and Burnt Sienna with a little Yellow Oxide admixed because she is supposed to be Korean. With skin, at least for me, I add layers and add layers and it looks weird ... ... until it doesn't. I've painted a little transparent Quinacridone Crimson on her lips and her eyes are preternaturally blue and pupil-less on purpose. Her hair is only sketched in for the moment, but yes, it is supposed to be bubblegum pink. She is a wee bit of a Gothic Lolita. And then I worked out something about making her hand look okay. The character she represents has a green spider familiar. A big one, hand size. ... Hand size ... So I figured okay fine, I'm going to try to paint that lemon-shaped lump in her right hand as a big green spider. I'll work out how as I go along. To start with I painted it bright green. Phthalocyanine Green, my favorite green pigment, is completely transparent. It's great for color glazes but needs something opaque added to give it body. I decided to do a two step process to give it a really intense, glowing color. This is something I do a lot when I want a really eye-popping bright color: Paint a paler, solid version of the color underneath and then glaze over it with a more intense, transparent color. Here's my palette (Normally I use a wet palette but this was for a single quick effect): From left to right the colors are: Phthalo Green (looking super dark because of its transparency -- it's actually a brilliant peacock blue-green), Hansa Yellow Opaque (a brilliant warm yellow with only a little opacity, despite the name), and Titanium White. Above the Hansa Yellow is my mixed color with a ton of yellow, only a little green (it's a really strong green) and enough white to make it fairly opaque but not too washed out. Here's the first layer on her hand: Notice even "opaque" the color underneath shows through. I like this because it harmonizes the colors. There's something in fine art I've heard called "airlessness". It's when adjacent colors have nothing to do with each other, no reflections, no harmonics, just separate blocks of color. Maybe it's just a nice excuse for sloppiness, but I like colors bouncing off each other. Once the undergreen was dry I mixed a medium green with the yellow and no white in it, and glazed it lightly over the paler color. The under-color comes through and it's as close to a stained glass effect as regular paint can get. This is the state the figure was in for our first gaming session (Yeah, I'm slow.), and it was recognizable enough for the player to delightedly figure out that that was her spider. And yet there shall be more ...
  7. This is a PC for a game of Exalted mashed up with the World of Darkness. The GM is pretty inventive and has found ways to make it work that have all the players pretty interested. For complex reasons (which I do think I will get into somewhere, because this is one fun game), in the modern world a trickle of old-style Exalts have been popping up, which are the PCs. This character is a Persian ex-vampire who reverted to human when the Exaltation hit her. She has a lot of issues. The figure is Hasslefree's HFA004, "Kat". She's dressed a little more wildly than the character, who was mostly a businesswoman and philanthropist, but the sword is about accurate. It's a manifestation of the sun itself. The mini requires some firm pinning of the arms and I added some chunks of pewter under her base to help keep her from toppling over. Here she is primed and washed with Burnt Umber (I left the umber off her sword so that it would have a more intense solar "glow" later on).
  8. I will be making individual WIP threads when I can get organized enough, but I just wanted to share these faces I painted yesterday because they are the first things I have painted since last November (uggh, Beekeepers topics ...) and they made me happy. They are for a single game, some PCs and some NPCs.
  9. Two copies, primed with Titanium White and a wash of Burnt Umber: This is a Kitsune figure Reaper offers only as part of a set. I got mine from two copies of 03495: DHL Classics: Lady Lycanthropes (which also includes a werewolf and a weretiger). She also comes in the set 02900: Beastmen of the Wyld (which also includes a boar-man and an elk-man (American elk or wapiti, not European elk or moose)). I will confess, I had seen her around in the store and thought her sculpt only okay and kind of flat looking. But then a couple of gorgeously painted examples changed my mind: So I got two copies of 03495: DHL Classics: Lady Lycanthropes, since I knew I was going to need lycanthropes for a game soon and there aren't too many females out there. Just to get a sense of place I sloshed a little drab green, mixed from Burnt Sienna, Yellow Oxide, and a dab of Phthalocyanine Green, onto their bases. I decided to paint one up as a silver fox and one as a classic red fox. Using my standard method of slopping some beginning colors on, I mixed up a neutral grey from Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Sienna plus some white and daubed it on one of the figures (plus some pure white on the tail tip). I took some of the straight Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Sienna mix -- which is a transparent dark near-black with violet overtones -- and laid it on the silver fox in the standard places. If you Google silver foxes they are beautiful, almost like Siamese cats, with silver heads and backs and black legs, tail, ears, and face. I did similar things with the reddish kitsune. I mixed a dull rusty red from Burnt Sienna, Yellow Oxide, a dab of Titanium White, and a minuscule amount of Phthalo Green to grey it down just a hair, then I daubed it on the parts of a fox that would be red. I washed her darker bits with that same Ultramarine Blue-Burnt Sienna near-black, and a light brushing of pure white on her tail tip. Then I took some pure Carbon Black and laid in their eyes, noses, and lips. It's really hard to see on the silver fox, but there is a difference between it and the "black" on her face. So they are a real mess right now, but there should be some interesting developments as we go along.
  10. This is a catgirl pirate ( "Nyamaunir-Piratin"), figure #15503C from Das Schwarze Auge, produced under license by Ral Partha Europe (which is not Ral Partha). Got that? She is a wee bit on the small side. Here from left to right are a cat person (Khaliman) from the French "Alkemy" game, our little kee kat pirate, Reaper's 77340: Avatar of Sekhmet, and Reaper's 03478: Tawny Firehair, Cat Girl. Here she is up close. She has some nice details and a more fuzzy appearance than most of the cat people minis I've seen. This is my standard priming: A thinned coat of Titanium White allowed to dry for a full day, then a wash with thinned Burnt Umber. It's related to Renaissance painting techniques and I find it gives a good warm foundation to start from. I was painting her at the same time as some wolves, for economy of paint. I figure I'm going to paint her like a grey cat. The first coat of paint is a light grey mixed from Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Sienna, lightened a good deal with white. Here's a back view: It may be noticed I'm a little casual how I apply my paint. There are bits not covered and the paint has been thinned down and it isn't always the same opacity because of that and the under-brown shows through. I mixed a slightly more translucent, darker version of the same grey and added some more. Then I took some matte pure Carbon Black and indicated in her eyes, nose, mouth, and claws. I put an undercoat of black on her sabers as long as I was at it, since I find it looks very good under silver. Tune in later to find out what's next ...
  11. I've started the Kraken, since I've gotten strong hints that it will be a useful figure soon. Here are the pieces primed with Reaper's Brown Liner: You may notice that not only is the shipwreck separate, but the Kraken itself is in two pieces, the body / tail and the mouth / head / tentacles. This is because yesterday my youngest pointed out that another Kraken I was assembling for a friend, parked briefly in a decorative candleholder, looked just like a giant plant monster. Sort of like this: Anyhow, I plan to paint the front end sort of plantlike and the back end sort of spiny lobsterlike and blue-tac them together when needed to be a Kraken. The first thing I did was throw some medium bright green on, because plants and algae. It's still a bit wet in these pictures, and so looks brighter and more opaque than it really is. I'm just slopping the paint on at this point, getting color more or less where I want it, to be refined and nuanced later. Next I added some pure Mars Red, thinned down a bit so it's not opaque, to make the body look more lobsterlike. I mixed the red with some Titanium White to make a dull pink and painted around the creature's mouth. I hope to eventually make the tentacle canopy look disturbingly flowerlike. I mixed a soft yellow-brownish very pale cream color and scumbled it almost dry onto the creature's belly and corresponding outside of its tentacle canopy. Then I started mixing some dull grey-browns and bringing up weathered wood lights on the shipwreck (Reaper Sea Hag, unfinished, for scale). I started painting the creature's tentacles green. I ran out of the color about halfway around. I mixed a new batch which was brighter and yellower, and here is one of my big painting principles: It doesn't matter if the colors don't match. I almost never paint with a single color, and I layer on so many different colors for highlights and shading that by the end they more or less match anyway. Not only don't I sweat color matching, I prefer to paint with variations of colors to get a richer effect than any single color can manage, no matter how pure. Anyway, here are the tentacles in progress. I didn't take any in-focus pix of the shipwreck, but I dry-brushed some of the same bright green on it for more algae. And here's one last shot of the tentacles with more of the yellower brighter green brought over the duller, darker one.
  12. I've no idea if this is one of Hasslefree's originals or one of their tributes to media characters. At any rate, I'm painting her up as a slightly unnerving Russian bodyguard named Petra for a modern-day game. Here's my standard priming: A layer of thinned down Titanium White followed by a wash of thinned-down Burnt Umber. I love all the little details Kevin of Hasslefree puts into his sculpts. I especially love how plausibly backside-kicking his women warriors look. Here are a couple of the in-between states of painting up her skin (which is to say her head, since she's wearing gloves). I'm including them because they're messy, because sometimes people get worried when their painting doesn't look great at each step. Don't ever be worried that things are looking messy! Paint is made to smooth things over. This first image shows a single thin layer of Titanium White mixed with Burnt Sienna sketched in leaving the darkest shadows. This I find is when faces look their creepiest (Ignore the other two figures; they are for other WIPs). This shows some shading developed with thin, translucent layers mixed with more or less Burnt Sienna. Burnt Sienna is a warm orangeish brown which lightens into peachy tones which seem to work for generic white people's skin. There's also some Burnt Umber in the deepest shadows. Here I've washed a little Quinacridone Crimson on her cheeks (very thinned) and lips; slung some buff yellow mixed from Yellow (Iron) Oxide, Burnt Umber, and Titanium White on her hair; and done up pale, slightly staring eyes (Grey mixed from Ultramarine Blue, Burnt Sienna, and Titanium White) with a sort of dramatic dark eyeliner I've sometimes seen used by pale blondes. The eyes look a little more disconcerting because I haven't put highlights in. She has no eyebrows because she's so fair. I also primed her guns black. I'm probably going to refine her features a little, especially around the hairline. But she's okay for now. I mixed up a blue for her jumpsuit, which I am trying to imply is shiny spandex. It's a mix of Phthalocyanine Blue, Burnt Umber, and a little Titanium White (more white for the highlights, natch). As with everything here, it's still rough. And there she is, a modern female mercenary begun ...
  13. This was another entry in my year-end Conga Line of minis to finish. My husband gave me this whiskey (barrel) golem because it was made of wood and useful for a steampunk game he's running. This is Malifaux' WYR20603. (Apparently there is a slightly fancier version called the "Nightmare Whiskey Golem" which also has little goblin figures squirming all over it and drinking its leakage in disturbing fashions. I am just fine with this version, thanks.) This is the first polystyrene plastic figure I've ever put together. It was interesting, if fiddly. Here he is next to Reaper's 50016: Rosie, Chronotechnician for scale. Original WIP (from a while ago) here.
  14. Inspired by this post by Darsc Zacal, I'm starting a new game, "What Mini Am I Anyway?" Anyone can participate. The idea seems to be to see if you can identify a miniature from its silhouette and possibly some clues. Thematic groups are not required, but can add to the fun. This is the image that spurred the idea: Clues: This is a party of PCs in a game loosely (very loosely) based on White Wolf's World of Darkness. Two figures are from Reaper; I mentioned the sources of two of the other figures on these forums last month. One figure has been modified by the removal of a weapon. Players are encouraged to identify the figures by company, name (if any) and SKU number (if any). Prizes are, um, the respect of your awesome detectoring skills and "Likes".
  15. Whoops. I just dropped and lost my most useful-sized drill bit, the one that is exactly right for standard paper clips. What size is that, please? I should like to order a replacement. Or even better, a pack of replacements.
  16. Can I ask people's considered opinions about the history reference books from Osprey Publishing? I had been vaguely aware of them Wherever Games Are SoldTM. One or two have fallen into my lap and proven useful. But I have heard mixed things about them. Some, I hear, are more reliable than others. And I have heard a few rumors that academia doesn't exactly smile on them or those who write for them. I haven't heard anything about those who illustrate for them, but I have an interest in that too. Since the InternetTM can be unreliable in these things, I thought I'd ask people who stand a better chance of having some experience.
  17. This is something I've been thinking about for a friend's character. I include for posterity most of the discussion I had about it on the current Randomness thread: In the end I did a bit of gentle shaving with a fresh X-Acto blade, then filed the rest of the way. (I don't presently have Greenstuff, nor have I used it before.) This is what my copy of Aislinn looked like unmodified: And this is what Aislinn looks like now that I've tried a bit of filing. The filed areas are much shinier than the rest of the figure which seems to make them look rounder than they really are. Possibly they are not yet plausible pectoral muscles, but I'm hoping to help the effect with paint.
  18. Just checking. I am soon to assemble my first small-scale multipart resin miniatures, the sort with a number of possibly fiddly bits (Eyeballing them quickly, it looks like things like arms were fairly well-designed, with integral pin/pegs and corresponding shoulder holes already provided). I have assembled great slabs o' resin before, but this is the first delicate resin I've had to glue. On the whole I favor epoxy as glue, but would cyanoacrylate glue be a better choice for little minis? Any tips? The figures are more or less Egyptian-style cat people ("The Republic of Khaliman") from a French skirmish game called "Alkemy", if that makes a difference. Lots of thin little tails and arms.
  19. Pingo

    Pingo builds a boat

    My birthday is imminent (precioussss), and my husband gave me this resin ship model from German manufacturer Gelaendestuecke. I've never done anything like this before: Never worked with resin, never made a ship model, never tried to figure out rigging and sails (they aren't included in the model and even the masts are just dowels at the moment). So ... Woohoo, I have no idea what I'm doing. But I figure it'll be fun figuring it out. Here's the box And the instructions in their entirety The hull and the deck The wooden bits, the mast, bowsprit, and railings The cabin has a few issues. Note the little spot the arrow points to. That becomes relevant later. It also has a big missing spot from a bubble in the back And a crack and missing piece on one side Okay, so here's how I've begun it. First I scrubbed the resin pieces with a toothbrush in very hot water and dish liquid. There was a nasty waxy substance under the hull which I assume is mold release. Once cleaned, the bottoms of the pieces were really shiny, which seemed like it would cause a problem with the epoxy adhering. But sanding resin is problematic. Its dust is very fine and lightweight and highly toxic. Bad stuff to breathe. So I sanded them underwater, with a few drops of dish liquid add to break the surface tension so the dust wouldn't float on the water. Resin really wants to float. Sanding on the cabin exposed a greasy, waxy white substance where that little splodge was, something like a white oil pastel, and kind of gross. Scraping it out exposed more of it within the resin and lost a few flakes of the surface. It can be seen, rather big in this picture of the ship as it is at present. And here's a side view.
  20. Pingo

    Smilies for Devices

    Been meaning to do this for ages. My devices -- tablet and phone -- have never been able to access the formatting menu that shows up on this site on desktop computers. So this is a resource of smilies to cut and paste for this forum, for when I'm posting on the phone or iPad and can't remember the dang code for that one smiley. They are divided between posts because the number of smilies per post is regulated.
  21. Forumites may remember I painted this more than a year ago. Which I did, and then I, errr forgot to take finished pictures and post them. Sorry. I'm fixing that. This is Reaper's Bones kraken, #77291, which I believe was once offered in a resin-metal combo but is now sold in the much lighter and less fragile (and less expensive) Bonesium. When I put one together for a friend, I noted that the front end would make a pretty good carnivorous plant, especially when tucked into a lotus flower-shaped candleholder we have. It also seemed a pretty good evocation of the Sarlacc in "The Return of the Jedi". So when I put my own together, I left the body and the front end separate, both for ease of storage and for versatility of use. (I never did figure out how to put the tentacles on, though. I tried to follow the store image in both the ones I put together and they still both came out different.) I also love this model because it comes with a wonderfully elaborate base, the prow of a wrecked ship. We have been using that as scenery. Some of the creature has been painted with interference paint, which is either near-transparent or luminously glowing iridescent color depending on the angle of light and viewing. I've tried to include pictures to show the change. First are photos with a white background, to show the model clearly (I went a little overboard with underwater effects later). A few have Dark Sword Miniatures' mermaid warrior, DSM 1197, to show the scale of the model. This creature is BIG. Dark Sword Miniatures' mermaid warrior, DSM 1197, included to show the scale of the model. Very, very old WIP thread here.
  22. Pingo

    Hi. I'm back.

    http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/50425-randomness-x-glitter-wolves-and-mighty-thews/page-694#entry1467811 That was my last post here. It's been a time, but I'm back now. How are you all? I missed you. There's so much catching up to do. I left the boards That Night, as soon as it was obvious what had happened. The news was hard, and some of the conversations here leading up to the event had already been too painful. After I went silent some forumites PMed me to ask if all was well, and I returned to the boards a few days later to PM back that I was taking a break for a bit. At that time I took a look at the Beekeeper threads and found them difficult to bear. I felt I couldn't control my emotions, so I kept away to avoid being rude and impulsive around friends and inflaming things further. It hurt to leave, but I needed time to work through and come to terms with what happened. I have kept busy. We attended a science fiction convention. I taught art and practiced my knitting. I read Wollstonecraft and MLK and made donations to progressive causes and contacted elected representatives. The interior work under our new roof was finally finished and we started moving furniture and books back up there. I had surgery. The holidays happened, and two birthdays. We traveled out of state and a festive time was had. I missed you, did I mention that? So, how have you all been? Are you well? What news? What changes? What hobby-related goodness?
  23. Pingo

    2016 Figures Painted

    A wee bit late, here is a visual roundup of the miniatures I painted in the 2016 calendar year. I got off to a rapid start by attacking my Shelf of Shame in January, finishing 39 half-started figures by the end of the month: The whole Scooby Gang, female magicians and pirates, a small squad of driders, a few good monsters, some utterly enchanting Tom Meier elves, and some useful fantasy, modern, and sci fi characters. Things slowed down considerably after that, but I got some good work done in several pulses. Chaoswolf's lovely Box O' Goodwill project dropped some old school lead in my lap, and I enjoyed painting those sometimes chunky, sometimes elfin vintage figures. Summer brought some useful dungeon wall and floor terrain, which I hoped could be used for figure photography as well as gameplay. Some Doctor Who miniatures new and old were next, and the year's painting finished up with some cowboys converted to Githyanki and one magnificent and three slightly ridiculous vampires.
  24. These are three classic tiny Old School vampires, originally from Grenadier, now from Mirliton. Two of them I had when I was a child. The Mirliton set is called "NM002 Vampires". The Grenadier vampires were found in two sets: all three in "606 Vicious Vampires" and two of them in "2014 Folklore Creatures of the Night". I think I must have had the second set because the third vampire, the one in the "Aha! Argh" pose, is unfamiliar to me and it was not in that set. The female vampire is tiny. She is so small I was a little uncomfortable with the implications. My husband suggested she be a hobbit (or gnome) vampire and hey, problem solved. WIP thread here.
  25. This is Reaper's 03681: Nazera Bloodraven, Vampire. I love her sculptural forms. Whichever way she is turned, there is some interesting movement going on. Bobby Jackson did a lovely job sculpting her. I used iridescent interference blues and violets on her armor. I am thinking about discussing how I paint reds. WIP thread here.
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