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In the Reaper Live videos, it's been mentioned that most rattle primers are ok to use. But no one that I've seen has mentioned their results of spray priming their bones black, so I thought that I would post my results here. I hope that others will post theirs as well. Cleaning and prepping mold lines on bones black is very different than regular bones. I would compare it to other gaming companies hard plastic while still having a little bit more flexibility. So far I've used the following primers, I'll add to this list as I use new ones: Krylon Colormaster White primer- quick drying time with light spraying, no stickiness, no granular texture associated with light dusting. The white stayed relatively white unlike on other plastic models. Rustoleum 2X Paint+Primer Satin Poppy Red- Smooth coverage, no texturing. However, after 24hrs is still slightly tacky to the touch. In places where I've scrapped mold lines away the plastic underneath is not tacky. I'll give it a few more days to cure and then I'll try stripping it and see how that goes. The tackiness maybe due to the satin primer rather than the more commonly used flat primer. ETU: 60 hrs and no change in the tackiness so I used isopropyl to strip it with no issues.

I am current sitting with both Cinder and Blightfang Bones "minis", and before I paint it how did everyone else go about priming them? I want to do this large mini justice and prep it in the best way possible. This is the Reaper Bones plastic mini, so I don't want to use an Rattle-Can due to the curing issues. Keep in mind that I do not have access an airbrush. Also after I am done washing the mini in soap and water how else should I go preparing the mini?

Recently I moved from an apartment in a house, complete with a small yard, to an apartment building with a parking lot. Since I like to use Krylon spray primer I knew losing that yard would be a problem. So I thought about it and think I've come up with a solution. I took a copy paper box and lined it with a plastic tarp. The basic idea is to secure the miniatures at the back of the box and spray them one side at a time. That way the spray can would be inside the box while spraying with the liner stopping any paint bleeding through and keeping the mist contained inside the box. At the back of the lot there is an area where no one parks because it's pretty tight even for a small car (so there's no chance to hit a car). Testing there should be fine though I'm going to setup off the pavement in the brush just in case (I want to test the idea before I trust it on pavement). I should be able to test the affectionately named "Complaint Box" on Sunday unless something comes up. I'm hoping this idea works, but am open to others excluding switching primers that is. Has anyone else tried something like this or have a way to spray prime in the city?

I've got some Army Painter spray primer and I need to prime a couple figures, but the temperature has plunged here in Indiana. It was 41 this morning, though I think it's up to 51 now. Is that warm enough to prime?

So, my Scythe kickstarter just came in today and it has five minis for the player pieces. However, each one is firmly attached to a color coded base and I typically use ArmyPainter spray primer, which won't really work because I'll end up hitting the bases. I did look through my paints, and I have some white Reaper brush-on primer, but I've never used it before. Is it as simple as brushing it on? I searched for threads on it, but only found someone complaining about it being too thin. I appreciate any advice since I'll probably attempt to prime tomorrow. Thanks.

I just acquired a mini from Hasslefree Miniatures that was cast in green resin. Does this material need to be primed before painting, or should I just clean it and go to?

I picked up my first ever Bones piece at ReaperCon this year. I found out very quickly that water doesn't play well with Bones, but I also heard that you don't need to prime Bones. My question is simple: do you prime your Bones? And if not, how do I need to alter my paint prep to get the best results? Thanks!

Okay! So I've primed a few figures and I'm ready to go. The problem is, I notice that on one of my figure's very delicately muscled arm, there's a flashing problem: her bicep is bifurcated! I'd prepped this one earlier before priming, but like everything else, you notice the flaws better after priming. The problem is that I'm finding it impossible to use a file, hobby knife, whatev to clean up her lines. If I use the file, it won't fit into the area I need to get to, and actually starts to wear away on a spot away from where I'm trying to reduce the flashing. The same problem happens with the hobby knife, and I'm worried I'll give her a flat bicep. So... with that said, to what degree do you clean up casting flaws like this that go slightly beyond ordinary flashing? Do you rub greenstuff on the area and try to even out the miscast area and smooth as best as possible? Do you file away until one arm is skinnier than the other? Do you just leave it be and pray that nobody notices? What are the best techniques for getting rid or covering up flashing/miscasts/etc? For reference, this is the model I'm working on: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/blade%20sister/sku-down/14645 It's on her right bicep and I'm probably being overly obsessive about it, but I want to get better at my prepping. I should also note that there are a few occlusions in this model as well. Nothing too serious, but there is a distinct divot on one of her boots and a couple in her hair. They're small, but they're there. I guess I'm just OCD over this stuff, or Varaug was just a very good cast. Thanks for the advice!

Maybe my search fu is weak tonight. As the last metal figures I have painted were mostly lead and painted with Testors, I am wondering how much is enough for the Reaper brush on primer? Some of the pictures I have seen look almost white, while others seem to have a bit of metal showing. Just how much is enough? I understand the too much covering the details, but I just don't have a feel for how much is enough.