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Found 1276 results

  1. The Bones sarcophagus painted to my usual tabletop level. I have a second one that I'll try painting all the scrollwork, flowers, and whatnot on the outside. This one was mostly washes and drybrushing. I hope you like it.
  2. Another old-school Ral Partha fighting woman who is sensibly dressed. I finished her up last night. let me know what you think, please.
  3. The Bones bookshelf, painted to what I hope is a decent tabletop standard. Let me know what you think.
  4. This is an old Mega Miniatures giant frog that I have painted as an ice toad for use in games of Frostgrave. I have another one that's not quite finished yet; you'll see him a little later on. Tabletop paint as usual. ...and of course I see the base is scratched a little. I'll fix it in a bit.
  5. This is the other figure that comes in the blister pack with the female fighter I posted a while back: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/76723-ral-partha-female-fighter/&tab=comments#comment-1615258 I finished him and he's ready to join his lady friend on the battlefield. Table top paint job.
  6. Oh yes. It just had to be done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaMIg_q4LeY If you have seen the TV-series or the comic The Strain, you know what inspired this Evil Bloodsucking Chocobo of Death! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7MDGTWb5Dw 62110: Numenera Ithsyn Reaper Bones KS2 Bonesium PVC 40mm base
  7. In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one. Reiterating how to paint translucent minis: Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought! From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints. So anyway: The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so: When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. I use Army Painter Anti Shine Spray for this. (I find all Army Painter sprays (and Vallejo acrylic primers for airbrush) work fine on Bones material, be aware that some brands are to be avoided as they will not cure properly and remain sticky). This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat. Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this. Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop. I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone. The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white. Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila. I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there. I opted for a relatively heavy stain. To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result. Kyphrixis (clear variant) Reaper Bones KS3 Translucent bones 125mm x 90mm oval base
  8. The Thing. Last seen on an Antarctic research station…At least that is what this makes me think of. So naturally, I painted it in fleshy tones to make is as horrid as can be. Strange plant life around here… Now, start rolling those Sanity Checks. 77521 Gravewailer Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion Rigid PVC / Bonesium 40mm base
  9. From the Bones 3: Mythos expansion comes the “Camel w/ Pack”. Luckily, the pack-part is loose and fits quite snugly so it is not nessecary to glue it on. This turned out to be a really good thing, as I left the pack on it and went on a few days’ trip. When I came back, the camel was listing heavily to it’s right side. I pulled them straight again, too bad I forgot to take a picture. still listing... Herein lies one of the problems with the bones material, especially when the legs or other supporting bits are thinnish. They sometimes cannot support the weight causing the mini to droop earthwards. The legs are fine for just the camel, but they could not support the weight of the pack as well, and bent over time. I have experienced that almost all dragons and larger models need a third contact point in addition to the legs, or some reinforcement with metal rods to avoid drooping. It could have been a wild camel if not for the bridle. ..and the pack. 80075 Camel w/ pack Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion Rigid PVC / Bonesium 3D printed 60x35mm oval base
  10. Since I was one of the people most excited about Hobgobageddon in Bones 3 I was pretty excited to start painting these guys up. I still have 12 individuals left after this (or 3 more color configurations to try) but these were the first four. I tried to give them white armor because I thought it would provide an interesting contrast to their skin. Their skin is auburn shadow mixed and highlighted with carrot top red. Anyways, they were a lot of fun unfortunately some detail on their faces was lost in the bones process but the rest of the minis were wonderfully detailed and fun to paint. Thanks for reading!
  11. This is an old Ral Partha female fighter; she is part of a 2 figure set with a male figure dressed and armed in the same fashion. (He is still on the workbench awaiting a few finishing touches) I hope you like her.
  12. So having gotten in a few games of Frostgrave, I have decided that my warband was not optimal...... I decided to add the armored master crossbowman, (Can't remember his title...) and got a hold of 03116: Black Legionnaire w/ Crossbow, with one of my orders for the minis of the month... As I have not had any motivation to paint, I have tried a couple times to get my mojo going, and did some base coating on this guy... Hoping he adds some ranged punch to my group.... Thanks for looking! G
  13. A pair of big cats from the second Bones Kickstarter campaign Expansion set #1. That expansion was a seemingly random collection of different minis, these were the only “natural” creatures it it. The camera washes out the colours even though I have reduced the wossitsname that makes it less washed out as much as possible. I think the female turned out better. There is something wonky about the face of the male. They are based on my 50x25mm 3D printed oval bases. I put the stl on thingiverse where it can be downloaded for free. and now I have a hankering for *that* candy bar. You know which one.
  14. This is 01-151 Sea Dragon from Ral Partha, re-released by Iron Wind Metals under the same SKU. I got mine from the Chaos Wars Kickstarter they had a while back. I decided I would be more daring and colorful than I usually paint, and paint this up as a tropical coral reef dragon.
  15. These are Wererats, not Skaven at all: Being Bones, they are slightly soft in the details, especially the smaller ones. They are made of the slightly more rigid Bones material that most of the second kickstarter Bones were done in, and as such the thinner bits like blades and tails are still flexible, but not rubbery or so bendy as to droop under their own weight as has been known to happen to some Bones in extreme poses or with only the legs supporting heavy bodies, similar to the poses of these minis. However, these are all rigid enough not to have any such problems. So that is a win in my book. 77292: Giant Wererat: Erring on the side of caution with the backside picture, due to the ...huevos on display https://maledrakh.files.wordpress.com/2017/09/170927-reaper-bones-77292-giant-wererat-d.jpg The Rat Ogre (still can’t bring myself to call it a “Rat Ogor”) certainly has got a pair. 40mm base 77293: Wererat Berserker 30mm base 77294: Wererat Stalker 30mm base 77295: Wererat Assassin 30mm base These are all sculpted by Jason Wiebe according to the reaper store.
  16. he Bones 3 kickstarter shipment arrived at long last! Hoody Hoo! Which also means I have been in a frenzy of difficult mould line removal, scrubbing little white rubbery plastic bits in warm soapy water, dipping said bits in boiling hot water then cold to unbend bits here and there, and gluing stuff together and to their new bases. There are rather a lot of minis in this shipment... So I break it down into portions. Already I have roughly a square meter covered in mins that are ready for the undercoat. I snuck some of the translucent clear minis out first and did them up in time for their anti-shine spray varnish undercoat together with my Cthulhu Wars Glow In The Darks Great Old Ones that had been prepped for varnish undercoat just before I got the Bones 3 shipment. So I start with the Air Elementals. I do not know what Reaper calls these as they have not been released for general sale yet. I will simply call them Greater and Lesser Air Elemental. The Greater Air Elemental. I dirtied them up to a varying degree, as any twister pulls a lot of loose debris up into itself. I thought about sticking a bunch of flock to it here and there, but a dry run looked less than satisfactory. So I dropped that idea. My efforts to try to brush the flock into a blown pattern, did not work either. The Lesser Air Elemental. The bright light made them look a bit more frosted white than they actually are. At last I have the complete set of the four classic types of greater elementals. Greater and Lesser Air Elementals Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS I don't know their codes nor sculptor/s as they are not yet in the reaper store. Translucent clear bonesium PVC 60mm and 40mm bases respectively.
  17. Rounding out my egyptian themed minis I painted up these two avatars of sokar that I have. They were fun but challenging with all the detail. The bases were really fun to do. I made little pieces of temple floor with cork board then put a thin layer of milliput over them and used these textured rollers from Green Stuff World that was an egyptian themed roller. I've used Basius prior for stamping stuff and was surprised how well the rollers turned out and will be getting more of them in different themes eventually for sure. Anyways, thanks for reading!
  18. One of the other players in my group had me paint these guys up, Woody Stumpwimple and Balto Burrowell. The other players always wanted really muted (y'know, edgelord/masculine) colors so kept them pretty simple. Have already painted up Balto twice now (once for myself, 2nd time for a different player) so might say no more commissions for Balto although he's fairly easy to paint at least.
  19. Painted the duplicate of this guy a while ago and huz needed a 2nd one for an encounter we had so I painted him up pretty similarly. Nothing exciting, thanks for reading!
  20. The scenery from The Bones 3: Mythos Expansion 77525 Great Obelisk. I have tried to vary the tones on the greys used here, on the obelisk itself and not just the cephalopod on top. It really does not show up too well in the pictures. 77523 Cthulhu Shrine A statue that causes sanity loss. As above, I trued to vary the tones,mostly with different coloured glazes. And they do not really show up in the pictures here either. This does not seem to have a code nor a name (yet). It is also from the Bones 3 Mythos Expansion. I will call it the Cultists Altar.
  21. I remember when, during a dungeon crawling AD&D session a lifetime ago, we entered a part of the dungeon where the corridors were spotlessly clean but for a sign saying "Meet the Cleaner" or something to that effect. And a transparent, quivering wall moving towards us at speed... It ended badly for our party even though the Gelatinous Cube was defeated in the end, it's acidic jelly eating away at all our armour and favorite equipment, leaving our party drastically reduced both in capabilities and hit points going foward. And at last a proper miniature of such a Cube! Made in clear translucent Bones. I 3D printed a custom base for it, 8 cms in diameter. The middle piece is a part of the Cube and consists of a bottom "plug" and leftovers from some of the Cube's earlier meals. I tried for an oilslick rainbow-ish effect on the cube, dribbling on an assortment of inks and quickshades and then dabbing at it with some tissue paper to prevent too much colour pooling. I just wanted a hint of colouration to stain the clear rubbery plastic. An experiment, but I am rather pleased with the results. Apart from the orange/yellow being a bit too strong. The Cube it self is hollow and can fit a miniature inside completely! 77305: Gelatinous Cube from the Bones 2 kickstarter Reaper Miniatures Unknown sculptor Clear Transparent Bonesium PVC 80mm base
  22. Early last year, I pledged on Kickstarter for the Circle of Chaos Warband by Curtis Fell of Ramshackle Games fame, but I did not add on for the Rhinotaur at that time. ...So when I received the original 7 minis of the Circle, I kicked myself for not adding it on. The minis were weird-in-a-good-way designs by several sculptors, and great quality casts, and were all painted late last year. When the shiny syndrome at last overpowered me, I contacted Mr Fell, and he graciously ordred a Rhinotaur cast up and sent to me. After prepping, I added one of my 3D printed oval bases, and it has been standing around on my desk ever since, trying to get my attention. Which it in the end, did. "Very few mutations survive conception. Fewer still survive birth. Some are so twisted and hideous, the host's birthing screams must be silenced to maintain a shred of sanity. This begins the tale of one such horror, unleashed upon a blighted world. A beast of war and ruin so terrible a strong man's guts turn to water at the sight of it. A pair of ancient cleaving swords it yields, whirling and feinting despite its armored bulk. It's mighty horns used to batter and break and pierce, are sharp enough to penetrate a dragon's hide. But despite all of this, despite the horrible carnage, the hacking, the trampling, the impaling, the worst of it is its battle cry. Pig snorting and squealing in battle, reaching its fervor. And suddenly, blood covered and splattered with gore, it opens its jagged mouth and emits the piercing yet pure and joyful squeals of a baby." -from the KS update introducing the Rhinotaur addon. The completed warband in all it's glory. Curtis Fell / Ramshackle Games is officially on my "Kickstarter good performers" list Good communication, great product, timely fulfilment. A+ would back again. The Rhinotaur aka Grey Death Circle of Chaos Oldhammer Warband KS by Cutris Fell Sculpted by Jason Wiebe Metal. Heavy Metal 75x45mm 3D printed oval lipped base.
  23. My next two sets of hobgoblins and hobgoblin veterans. I was not as pleased by how well my first set turned out (first set) as I still struggle to paint anything in white very well and felt like there wasn't enough contrast or detail on the armor. So instead this time I tried a sort of a paint, then dark wash, then highlight to get the detail out on their armor. I was hoping the green armor would look more jade (I have those foo dogs to paint up eventually) and it didn't quite turn out like I wanted to, but I am pleased that at least the detail in their armor wasn't as lost this time around. Anyways, thanks for reading!
  24. This is an old Ral Partha 3 stage character; high level Cleric. I've got both the low level, and mid level ones around here somewhere; I need to dig them out and paint them, too. My usual tabletop paint job, I hope you like it.
  25. Here is the first (of three) stalagmites from Bones 2. The other 2 are in progress and will get added to this thread when they are complete.
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