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Found 6 results

  1. As the topic title suggests, this is just a collection of random heroes from my last painting sessions. A duo of Dramatis Personae for Mordheim from Tiny Furniture: s A sad dooter from Vae Victis A very jolly Gnome, also from Vae Victis A A mouthy and strangely armed Mercenary from One Gold Piece No heroes...just normal Beekeepers. From Printable Scenery
  2. Tiny Furniture's "Inserts 25mm - Village garbage" is a five-piece set of 1" circular garbage base inserts for your miniatures. They may also be used as terrain, objective markers, etc, with or without bases. Like Tiny Furniture's other miniatures, they have the high level of detail you expect, and can be painted easily by beginner players. Like Tiny Furniture's "Dungeon Garbage", the miniature bases have an assortment of garbage suitable for dungeons, city states, and villages. Each heap pile is a collection of smaller distinct items, so, like "Dungeon Garbage" you have the option of giving as much attention (and time) to the details as you would like. The bases are available unpainted. While I didn't see a painted version in the catalog, you can contact Tiny Furniture and see if a painted version is available. The five bases have different garbage: * Rat with barrel, plate, and bone. * Chest with broken plate. * Broken wheel, urn, and skull. * Broken barrel bottom, wood, and urn. * Broken pottery and wood. Color Scheme : Realistic and in the Background. Unlike Tiny Furniture's "Garbage Debris" miniature set, you may not want the garbage bases to be so demanding that they take the focus of the viewer's attention from the miniature on the base. This may result in the overall miniature and base looking too busy, as each element of the miniature and base is demanding the viewer's attention. At most, maybe the rat might be painted to be more noticeable by the viewer. Real garbage is a homogenous mess, typically brown, so I went with painting the miniature with that in mind, still painting the features differently if the viewer picks up the miniature to look at it closely. One of the photos has the "Garbage Debris" set next to the inserts. Painting Tips. I primed in a brown colored primer, followed by a dark brown wash, such as Army Painter's Strong Tone wash. I then painted the wooden pieces the same brown color, more or less. Skulls and bones were painted ochre. Optionally, you can then drybrush or paint ochre as an undercoat for lighter or different colors. Besides paints, you can use washes for a faded coloring. Both the Army Painter and Secret Weapon Miniatures has a range of colored washes you can use. To unify the base, I then used a brown wash, Secret Weapon Miniature's Sewer Water. You can then edge-highlight wood, etc. with a lighter brown and ochre. For the rat, I painted it grey, with flesh tone paws and ears, then black for its eyes. To make the rat stand out a little, I did not wash it. Conclusion. Most painters considering Tiny Furniture's "Inserts 25mm - Village garbage" are probably intermediate painters, but the set should be accessible to beginners with some terrain experience as well. The inserts can be used as garbage piles for a variety of other uses, such as objective markers, rough terrain, garbage piles, and so on.
  3. (Rough draft for a review on RPG.net. More Tiny Furniture Reviews : https://www.rpg.net/reviews/search-review.phtml?productCompany=tiny+furniture&orderby=category&showinfo=publisher Tiny Furniture's "Guillotine" is a multi-piece set, including guillotine, basked, and unfortunate man's head. The miniature may be purchased by itself, or as part of Tiny Furniture's "The Execution Day" set, which includes "1) Gallows and Scaffold, 2) Executioner axe and chopping block, 3) Guillotine, 4) Pillory, 5) Torturer". Both the "Guillotine" and "The Execution Day" miniatures may be purchased unpainted or painted. Like Tiny Furniture's other miniatures, their guillotine miniature has great details, even having a rope and tie down the side, pulley atop the blade, and various metal fasteners. The platform, where the victim would be lain down, is a single piece, rather than hollow, making it less likely to break apart. Assembly is pretty easy. You can even use putty (with superglue) to put the miniature together, if you wish to take it apart after play for safer storage. The model is easy to paint and pretty much has no mold lines. Some pieces need to be detached from sprues. The guillotine itself is painted as wood, rope, and metal. Except for the metal, I primed in brown primer, followed by brown Army Painter Strong Tone, and a light dry brush mainly on the edges of the miniature. For the platform, I painted the "hollow" areas with a dark black-brown. For the metal blade and other metal areas, I primed or painted in metallic primer, followed by dark Secret Weapon Armor wash. The rope and basket were primed in brown primer, then dry-brushed in ochre Army Painter Skeleton Bone. Paint the head as you would a zombie. While I didn't do it, you can add blood to the blade and stocks. Search on "miniature painting blood tutorial" for tutorials on painting blood.
  4. Tiny Furniture's "Troll Chief Throne" is a single-piece miniature, which stands 3 1/2" tall on a 2" x 2" base. Pretty large for a miniature -- and it's certainly not just tiny furniture! The throne is composed of various dragon, animal, humanoid, and human skulls and bones, held together with wood, leather, and rope, on a stone base. There's even a large stone axe and a rune stone. Even though the name of the figure is "Troll Chief Throne", the throne is fine for large evil humanoids, such as ogres, and physically powerful orcs, bugbears, etc. The throne has not only the incredible detail you expect from Tiny Furniture, but your players will want to pick it up and look at it closely, to try to identify the different skulls and other features on this impressive structure! As something of a spoiler, look for: a mammoth skull and tusks, a second set of mammoth tusks, a third set of mammoth tusks, two gigantic humanoid (orc?) skulls, the skull of a giant cat, an even bigger skull of an even gianter cat, and a dragon skull! Those trolls have certainly been busy! The model is available both unpainted and painted. Despite all this detail and features, this terrain piece can be easily painted quickly by a beginner. Intermediate painters with a little experience with blood effects will want to give the huge stone axe a nice coat of blood, and perhaps a blood stain on the steps of the throne. Just to make things interesting. I'm sure if you have extra skulls for basing, you could find some room for them on the steps as well. Painters will also be happy to know that the miniature has minimal prep, with pretty much no mold lines or gaps. Painting Guide: I choose an analog paint scheme of ochre bone colors, brown leather and wood, and dark grey stone. You can interpret the leather parts as cloth, if you wish to paint something more colorful, like the painted version. Prime the miniature in brown, then paint the stone base grey. If using colored primers, you can brush-prime the throne brown and the stone base grey. Myself, I didn't basecoat the miniature with brown or grey, but you may want to. Paint the bones and rope ochre. Wash the ochre bones and brown wood and leather with a brown wash, such as Army Painter Soft or Strong Tone. Wash the stone with Secret Weapon Miniature Stone wash, or a dark wash such as Army Painter Dark Tone followed by drybrushing of light grey. Highlight the bone with ochre and possibly white. Paint the leather and wood parts various different browns. You may want to pick out which details to highlight, so it's easier to see an individual skull. Blood: If you are an intermediate painter, by all means put some blood on this miniature! I experimented with Army Painter's Crusted Sore, Secret Weapon Miniature's Drying Blood wash, and Tamiya Clear Red. I pretty much put the paint and wash on the edge of the stone axe blade, then some coagulated Tamiya Clear Red on part of the blade. I did the same with the paint and wash for a few spots on the stone base. Do a search on "miniature painting blood tamiya clear red" for various blood painting tutorials. Conclusion: Tiny Furniture's "Troll Chief Throne" is one impressive detailed miniature, well-suited for "big boss" humanoid encounters for gaming. Yet, at the same time, it's a painting project even beginners should be able to paint. A big throne by Tiny Furniture!
  5. (Rough draft for an RPG.net review. TIny Furniture's "143-1: Halloween Pumpkins" is a nine-piece resin miniatures set, of three pumpkins, and six jack-o=lanterns. The pumpkins consist of a large and two medium-sized pumpkins. The jack-o-lanterns consist of three medium-sized jack-o-lanterns with candles, and three small ones. The small ones have a candle, a pot, and a demon-head. One of the pumpkins comes on a sprue, and all of the jack-o-lanterns come on a sprue, with the smallest jack-o--lanterns sharing a sprue. As a painting project, I would say that this project is a beginner to intermediate difficulty. Note that, since Tiny Furniture is located in Russia, delivery will take some time, so order them months before October! Tiny Furniture offers a painted version. You may find wholesalers on Amazon or other online stores able to ship the miniatures sooner. The set is pretty inexpensive for resin, so you may wish to purchase this with your order from Tiny Furniture. Details: The details, like many of the Tiny Furniture line, are impressive, particularly with the jack-o-lanterns. While most jack-o-lanterns I've seen are pretty much pumpkins with the "carving" pressed into the side, Tiny Furniture jack-o-lanterns are actually hollow, sometimes with the carving going through the "wall" of the pumpkin. The jack-o-lanterns actually have candles molded inside, although this makes them a little tricky to paint. Each of the jack-o-lanterns even has a different expression. Preparation: Like many resin terrain, the miniatures have minimal mold lines. The "eyes" of the jack-o-lanterns may have some resin to scrape out, although I didn't bother. Painting: I painted the figures on the sprues. I painted all of the pieces with a brown brush-on primer. I then basecoated them with orange paints, including craft paint. Rather than thin basecoats, I used thick vertical strokes to match the "grain" of the pumpkin skin. I also put less paint on the "valleys" of the pumpkin, to increase the contrast. I then washed with a brown wash. While I experimented with Strong Army Painter wash, you might try a weaker wash, such as Light Tone, which I will recommend later. The result was on the darker side, so I then reapplied orange paints. This time, I used the conventional consistency for painting miniatures. Interestingly, at this point, I ended up painting the pumpkins differently from the jack-o-lanterns. Pumpkins: Again, for the pumpkins, I used vertical strokes along the "grain" of the pumpkin skin and avoided the "valleys". Since pumpkins are similar to spheres, I painted downward strokes from the "top" of the pumpkin in lighter orange. I painted upward strokes from the "bottom" of the pumpkin in darker orange. To lighten orange, you can add yellow. This suggests light from above the pumpkin. I would say that most viewers would look at the pumpkin from above, much like most miniatures, because most people see miniatures from above, and because the features of these pumpkins, namely the stem and leaf, are on "top" of the pumpkin. After painting the pumpkins orange, I painted the stem a light brown, and the leaf green, including Army Painter's Green Ink. Jack-o-Lanterns: Unlike the pumpkins, the focus of the jack-o-lanterns is the "face". So, instead of painting the jack-o-lanterns from an overhead view like I did the pumpkins, I painted them from a front view, with emphasis on painting the faces over painting them like pumpkins. As a result, for the medium-sized jack-o-lanterns, I painted more orange paint over the brown "valleys" than I did with the pumpkins so that the faces could be more recognizable. I experimented with leaving the "valleys" more visible with the smaller jack-o-lanterns. If I used too much orange, I washed with the light brown Army Painter Light Tone. Light Tone kept the jack-o-lanterns from being too dark, and left the valleys less dark. Light Tone comes with the Army Painter Quickshade Ink set. Candles: Candles are molded into inside of the jack-o-lanterns. This makes them a little tricky to paint. Otherwise, paint the candle as you would any other, including the progression of the flame from white, to yellow, to orange, then red. If you are not already familiar with painting fire, you may wish to see a tutorial on painting flames to understand this color progression for a candle. Paint the candle ochre, and the melted wax and flame white. Paint most of the candle yellow, except for the base of the flame. Paint about the upper half of the candle orange. Paint the tip of the candle red. Small jack-o-lanterns: Finish off the small jack-o-lanterns by painting the details of the "tops". Paint the candle ochre. Paint the "stirring pot" handle brown and contents whatever colors you would like. I used green as a contrast to the orange. I painted the demon ears red, and the pumpkin stem brown, but you can use whatever colors you would like. After painting, you will need to be careful in removing the "pot" small jack-o-lantern from the sprue. I recommend cutting away the bottom of the pumpkin from the sprue, then carefully cutting away the handle, erring on leaving resin on the handle. Trim the remaining resin from the handle with a hobby knife, then paint brown. Conclusion: This set lives up to the Tiny Furniture standard of details, yet is still accessible for the beginning painter with some painting experience. The variety of jack-o-lantern expressions adds to the set. You'll want to show off these miniatures every Halloween!
  6. (Repost from RPG.net! : https://www.rpg.net/reviews/archive/18/18755.phtml Tiny Furniture's "131-3 : Half hundred of skulls" is over fifty human resin skulls for your 28mm basing and other needs. While the official photos show five ten-skull sprues, I received four fourteen-skull sprues, or fifty-six skulls total. Each skull is a different sculpture, although the differences may only be noticeable when looking closely at the figure. Four skulls on each sprue depict a skull with damage to the back of the head. Skulls, of course, are easy to paint, so this set is great for beginners. If you've painted a skeleton, you should be able to paint this set. Skulls are often used in mass quantities for gaming, and several companies sell skulls in bulk. Games Workshop is best known for its Skulls set. Citadel Skulls, at thirty dollars, is about three times the price for over two-hundred human skulls alone, plus over seventy-five other bone-related pieces (eg. jawbones and non-human species). While I do not have the Citadel Skulls, not everyone has a need for Warhammer-specific skulls. The Citadel Skulls are made of hard plastic, so I presume they have mold lines and other cleanup. Tiny Furniture's "131-3 : Half hundred of skulls" is made from resin, so are much easier to clean. While Citadel Skulls is a better price per skull, as an advanced tabletop painter painting batches of figures for gaming, I rarely add skulls to bases. But when I need them, I need them. So, I would say that if you do not have any skulls and are already placing an order with Tiny Furniture, you should pick up their "131-3 : Half hundred of skulls" for the occasional skull or two you may want to use for the occasional figure that needs it. Painting the skulls on the sprue is easy, particularly since mold line removal is trivial. (I actually cleaned up the skulls after painting, by scraping off some excess resin with a hobby knife.) Prime in brown, dry brush or otherwise paint with an ochre color, such as Army Painter Skeleton Bone (I just used craft paint), then wash with a brown wash, such as Army Painter Strong Tone. You can do these steps very quickly, certainly up to advanced tabletop standards. When you need the skull, clip the skull of the sprue, mount on the base of the miniature, then touch-up as necessary.
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