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  1. Used Tamiya clear blue to coat the Water Weird and Reaper paints for the well and highlights.
  2. So, I wanted to try my Tamiya clear blue on one of the Bones translucent blue elementals and I chose the Water Weird. So far, so good but I'm not sure how to finish it off from here. I'm thinking of trying to get a curly-wave-white-foam effect at the extremities but I'm not sure. What do you think hive mind?
  3. I used Tamiya Clear Smoke as a base coat, then highlighted the edges with Misty Gray. A couple of Clear Red dots for eyes,some basic grass-plus-flowers on the medium one, and then sealed with Crystal Clear and glued 'em to their bases. Quick, easy, ready for the tabletop.
  4. My elementals. I'm going to need to redo a few pics for inspiration gallery submission, but good for now. These have only been cropped, unlike most of my pics. WIP
  5. I've been thinking about doing this for awhile - painting up one of the clear "invisible" adventurers in Bones III as a translucent figure. The obvious choice was 77449 - Invisible Rogue, as my delightful wife painted the matching 77035 - Visible Deladrin some time ago. I painted the figure using a thinned Tamiya Clear Blue X-23 (thinned with Tamiya Thinner X-20). This produced a very light blue tint to the figure while at the same time introducing some definition. I also hit points where I wanted extra definition, mainly the face and weapon transition points, with unthinned Tam
  6. So I decided to do some elementals real quick. I gave them base coat of matte medium - primer for earth, because base coat. Then I attempted the yellow-ning. First it looked good, so I tried to add a little more, mixed with orange tint, and ugh. I think I'd recommend doing outsides red, and then use a yellow ink w/medium as "dry" brush to pick out details. It won't look right, but a lot of the translucents really seem to be table ready.
  7. So, when I first tried painting this, I made tolerably decent base for it, coated it with Tamiya Clear Green, and observed that the details were totally unclear. So I highlighted it with yellow. And it looked .... AWFUL. And therefore, I put it on the Shelf of Shame, from whence it has been reproaching me these past three years. "Fiiiiniiish usss," the ghostly damsels kept whispering to me in spooky undertones. "Nope," I said, and returned to all kinds of other projects. "Awwww," they would say, and disspiritedly return to moping in
  8. The fastest minis I ever painted! 15 minutes for two models, start to finish. Each got a single coat of Tamiya Clear Green/Orange and then glued to a base. I didn't feel the need to decorate the base for a puddle of acidic goo. I should probably seal them though. That hasn't happened yet, and will probably add another five minutes of slopping brush-on sealer onto them.
  9. So I was experimenting with Taimaya clears and I wanted to share what I've painted so far. I think the colors come out a little dark, but I love the jewel like gloss they dry to. I am going to get me some Taimaya clear (with no color) and some Taimaya thinner and keep expirementing. The Ghostly Summons has a few layers of Golden Glow over top to start building up some highlights. And so does the NightSpectre.
  10. Good evening! I'm trying to paint a 1/8th scale Tali (from Mass Effect). She's got a clear plastic face cover. In the game it's tinted purple. I had some Army Painter quickshade purple tone ink. It worked when brushed on in many thin layers but it's blotchy. Any suggestions on how to get a nice smooth transparent purple? Thanks!
  11. The WIP is here: A little less see-through than I'd like, but the light still passes. There is glow in the dark medium used, but it's not very effective, and would never come into play anyway.
  12. I had so much fun with my slimes I decided to do a few more translucent minis I had handy. These are the Grave Wraith and Nightspectre (somewhere else I have a Ghostly Summons 77095, Labella DeMornay 77096, and a spare Spirit 77098 that I will paint another time). I wanted to do these quickly, so it's ink mostly - the same ones as with the slimes, plus maybe a few darker phthalos. I've done a coat of glow in the dark medium for each (photographed), a coat of the not highest green, and picked out the skeletons in the nightspectre with a wash of medium and brown liner and base coated the g
  13. I have 2 of the clear bones shadows and 1 of the original spectres in metal. I might pick up another bones one. I'll be trying to paint these a few different ways, so they'll be distinguishable, but also similarly enough that they might be thought of as a unit. The metal spectre will be painted as a solid being, doing the reverse dry-brush, and glow-in-the-dark medium. One of the bones minis will use magenta, purple, payne's grey, prussian blue, dioxazine purple, maybe a pthalo and some warlord purple, and spectral glow for solid paints. I am going to do some experimenting. This will
  14. This is a quick post - pics will follow shortly from my phone. You can see the WIP with recipe and process pics by clicking on the link back there.
  15. In between base coats of glow in the dark medium for specter #2 I decided to unwrap and quick paint the slimes with ink. What follows is, to my belief, THE green slime recipe.
  16. Today, I have a bit of time. Not enough to really paint, but enough to do something that may be useful to me AND to other forum-ites. A week or so ago I bought those Badger Freak Flex translucent paints. I already had a bunch (but not all of) the Reaper Clear paints, and a few liquitex acrylic artist inks. I'm going to do a comparison on some paper. I think straight up, and then below 1:1 with matte medium In all I think it's about 20 colours, and I'll try to keep stuff clearly defined by brand and color. I suppose doing this over something like newsprint would be better, but I don'
  17. Probably my fastest paint job ever. Two nights, a couple of hours tops. He was fun though. It was my first translucent Bones and tried to use the translucency in a way that would benefit the model. Not sure how it ended up looking like this. I found it quite frightening when I was finished, like I painted something out of a nightmare.
  18. In my order of clears, I had the cube! I sculpted the flagstones with some greenstuff and a toothpick, and conveniently my cube is a snug enough fit on the inside bit that it'll stand quite comfortably on the base without slipping off. I wanted to get it seperable so that I could use it to eat other minis =] I did make a bit of a mess of painting the inner piece, because I just couldn't figure it out well enough ^^; but it's going to be fairly rarely seen, so I don't mind too much. I used Tamiya's Green and Yellow clears, and an assortment of Citadel for the solid bits... Screaming Sk
  19. So in my last Reaper order I ordered some big shiny stuff for other people, but for myself, I ordered a few translucent Bones, as I've had my eye on them for a long elf time. As I have the translucent dragon from Bones 3 eventually making its way to me, I decided to get some practice in too. So there was a thread around at one point about using Tamiya Clears on the translucent Bones minis, so I launched into painting mine with a similar approach =] I also got fed up with my SLR and its hatred of shooting indoors, so woke up its inbuilt flash and cobbled together the world's most slapda
  20. I used some of the suggestions on these forums to paint these. I first sprayed a clear matte sealer on (so the ink and paint will stick to the mini) then doused it in purple ink, then dry-brushed with 2 shades of pink (darker one and a lighter one) and then I hit them with a small amount of white. Still retains some of the translucent purple effect. Good for a Ghostbusters game.
  21. This is actually a mini that I painted at least a couple of years ago. I'd seen quite a few versions where people had painted just the hands and head and left the robes translucent, so I decided to do the opposite and paint the robe. I still painted the hands and skull with some Tamiya clear green, and gave them a quick highlight with white.
  22. I'm pretty happy with my Wall of Ice. The WIP is here. I tried doing the highlighting 2 different ways - I described it in the WIP - but I don't remember which is which anymore. I used a variety of inks - I'll have to get back about which ones exactly, I don't remember any more - to try and create some variety in the thickness of the ice, but it didn't work out so well. Edging was done with Reaper Ghost White. There's some happy accidents in there too where the brush slipped. If anyone's wondering, yes this is still see-through.
  23. With limited time to paint I needed to get an easy win, so I tackled the Large Fire Elemental a couple weeks ago and finished him up last weekend. I was hoping to make the face standout, but the details were messed up and to fix with paint at my skill level would have wasted the translucent properties of the Bones material. After prep I coated the mini with a layer of Tamyia clear yellow. Added saffron yellow to the dark crevises and pure black to the tips of the flames. The opaque paints left a stark change between their location and the untouched Translucent material, so I coated the whole t
  24. For 2/5..my first attempt at painting blue, translucent water...it works for tabletop, I think, but not much beyond that.
  25. So I picked up a blister of the Walls of Fire from The Complete Strategist in NYC yesterday, and took a few minutes to wash, dry, and coat them with some Tamiya Clear Paint. I did one with Clear Red, 2 with Clear Yellow.... I am wondering how much I can 'shade and high light' with these clear paints. I am thinking of using some Smoke on the tips... Anyone try this? Pics: The middle one is the one done with Clear Red... Comments Welcome! 8) George
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