Search the Community

Okay, I picked up this particular cloud giant at 40% off in the clearance section at the local FLGS. First section I hit when I get there every few-to-six months. It's been sitting here next to my chair in the living room under consideration for addition to the Joten Horde for a bit. One of the first things I was concerned with was the color under the translucent "air" effects. When I paint the skin the spot under the "air" will look different than the skin tones. So after some internal debate about how to proceed with everything I figure the clear effects needed to be dismantled and the cloak needs to come off so I can get at his right arm. This is where I learned that WizKids/Gale Force decided to take a shortcut on getting the effects of the air. ... *facepalm* The entire miniature is made of translucent material and they just "primed" the non-air parts. There's one exception to this; the ruff around the neck. That means the head, the hand, and the legs where the other translucent effects exist are not multiple pieces as I had originally imagined, but are, in fact, one piece each. Arg... I'll be disassembling the ruff as well as the "pauldron" so I can at least paint under that piece of "air." Anyway, stay tuned and enjoy. We'll see what I can wrestle out of this. Ps: The jewelry on the face reminds me of the emperor from the movie "300."

77451 77153 77449 77450 Thief : Blue Ink base + black ink to show details (least happy) Cleric : angelic ghost or spiritual weapon spell. Yellow ink + TMM Ranger: painted by minispawn. ill take it. Makes a great ghost Wizard: nulin Oil + higlights of green ink (fav) Fighter: I only painted the base. (represents an invisible PC pretty well.) I should talk to @Doug Sundseth about this again, since he is teaching a class on it, probably today. Not sure im happy with the set.

WizKids make both Nolur's Marvelous and Pathfinder Deep Cuts miniatures, both similar in style, scale and the primer. These, however, were clear transparent with just their integral bases primed light grey. I started by painting them all over with Army painter Anti-Shine Matte varnish. Then I gave them a wash of Citadel Casandora Yellow shade. When dry I then drybrushed carefully, using only "twelve to six"-strokes (think of a clock, the strokes going straight downward) with a pinkish red, a dark reddish brown and black. As these paints were both thin and carefully applied, the effect is much like a tasty gummy bear. Some dark blue in the eye cavities, followed by Army Painter Crystal Blue and Reaper Copper Verdigris on the eyeballs to make that demonic glow. The collars were painted with scale color Black Metal, followed by Army Painter Alien Purple and Scalecolor Deep Blue, topped with some more Black Metal. Inside the open mouth I painted some Citadel Yriel Yellow and Reaper Pure White. Hell Hounds are really big dogs! I did the bases with black flock directly beneath the hounds, with a crescent of my normal green flockmix to the front. I dabbed some yellow and orange paint along the edges to hint at burning grass. The bases themselves are 3D-printed 30mm x 45mm lipped ovals. 72581 Hell Hounds Pathfinder Deep Cuts by WizKids Transparent PVC 30x45mm bases

All I did was cut off the integral base and glue them on painted bases from CMON. Another 4 done! Reaper Bones: Invisible Rogue 77449 Invisible Wizard 77450 Invisible Cleric 77451 Invisible Warrior 77453

These are my first two painted minis in I think several decades, with probably fewer than 10 total even including my old figures. Being me, I decided to start with easy figures but non-standard paints. These were scrubbed, then primed with Army Painter Anti-Gloss Varnish to get as strong a grip as possible on a translucent figure. I decided to do the flat slime as a Crystal Ooze. For this I mixed Gallery Glass Charcoal Black, White Pearl, and Pledge Floor Polish in about equal parts. (It's hard to really dole out equal portions with the Gallery Glass sampler pots...) I gave the top a couple of layers - about 15 minutes between coats, since it takes a while for the Gallery Glass to firm up though it's a bit faster with thin layers and the floor polish added in. I decided it was a bit too pearly and not quite dark enough, so added some more Charcoal Black and a bit of water after that for the last three layers. With the top done to my liking, I added a few drops of MSP Black Ink to the remainder and gave the bottom a couple of coats. The result was a bit too shiny, so I gave it a final quick finish of the Anti-Gloss Varnish to dull it just a bit. The rearing slime is an attempt at an Ochre Jelly. I used the same basic 2:1 Gallery Glass to Floor Polish formula, this time with Harvest Yellow and Cocoa Brown. Again after two layers I felt the color was a bit too "happy" and added some more Cocoa Brown. I did two more layers and then added a few drops of MSP Brown Ink to the mix (not well blended, so I could make adjustments) and did a thin glaze with that. I didn't bother with the final Varnish coat on this one - the Ink glaze provided enough of a dulling effect on its own IMHO. The pictures don't really do justice to the transparency of the Gallery Glass paint; phone flash really killed the ambient lighting through the figures.

Used Tamiya clear blue to coat the Water Weird and Reaper paints for the well and highlights.

So, I wanted to try my Tamiya clear blue on one of the Bones translucent blue elementals and I chose the Water Weird. So far, so good but I'm not sure how to finish it off from here. I'm thinking of trying to get a curly-wave-white-foam effect at the extremities but I'm not sure. What do you think hive mind?

I spotted this set and got it originally for the woman in the slinky circa. 1930 gown, not yet realizing that it had two other great figures as well. RAFM sells three-packs of adventurers for "Call of Cthulhu" showing a progression: first the person in his or her civilian life, then out on the hunt for otherworldly horrors, then gone mad with the horror. They are kind of mixed in quality, but have a certain charm. I did not paint these as a progression of one character, but as three separate women: A society dame, a sporty modern young woman from the Indian Raj, and a madwoman out on the moors -- or tidal flats of New England, anyway. There are lots of fun details with these three. I tried to paint the madwoman's slip as transparent. It's eau-de-nil, an extremely fashionable color in the 1920s. Her feet and arms are supposed to look a little grubby. I added gloves to the society lady since no lady would be out barehanded at the time (her furs really should be a wrap around the back, not be two separate pieces; I think the artist did not have a visual reference for her back). And the sportswoman's boot is resting on a block carved with the most wonderful tentacled thing, although I did not paint it as clearly as I would like. The bases of the society woman and the madwoman were a little small for stability, so I glued them to pennies. I didn't do anything fancy with the society woman's base, but I added painted foliage and rocks to the madwoman's. The madwoman's base can be seen from above in this post: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/49565-i-hate-to-base-so-i-painted-them-instead/

I'm just wondering because my FLGS has a couple of sets of transparent tints. A 12 color set and a 16 color set. I thought they were badger originally, but apparently they are not. I realize they'd probably be designed for airbrush, but I'm wondering how they'd be used as brush on with medium, for example. Might they function like inks or reaper clears? I'd also like to know from anyone who's used them how they feel about the results, and please post links/pics if you have any. Thank you. edit: This is what I'm talking about.

My FLGS is out of Reaper Clears, and I can't justify a direct order at the moment (though in future I might if it takes too long to restock). I do have a few (yellow, blue, magenta), and a few liquitex artists inks. What I don't have is an actual transparent red (the liquitex is opaque). I don't know anywhere local that sells Tamiya clears, so I'm wondering what else people like to use. I almost got the Army Painter inks, but they mention being resin based? and that made me a little leery of the compatibility with my other acrylic based stuff. I also saw some P3 inks available, but haven't been able to determine their transparency from searching online. The store also carries Vallejo inks, but they don't have a ton in stock. I thought I'd turn to the ever knowledgeable community for some advice and opinions. So... what do people like to use for transparent colors? and for the artists...what are your thoughts with transparent artists paints? how well do they glaze?