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Found 17 results

  1. Good Friday everyone, It's been a while since I posted something here. Well, it's been two months. I've been working on a large project and it's finally time to share with you some progress I've made. Here are pictures of my Harrowgate graveyard. Each part of this set was sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. I only added 3d printed gothic style spiers, designed by gothic.things, on both sides of the gate. Also, the characters, monsters, statues and sarcophagus displayed on one of the pictures are all from Reaper Miniatures. Here are the sku: 77529 Harrowgate graveyard set, 77527 fence gate, 77530 short fences, 77531 fence posts, 77532 long fence and 77731 gargoyle finials. There are also other finials available. Here's the list of the colors I used on the stones; Army Painter Skeleton Bone basecoat, Reaper MSP 9029 Earth brown stains, Reaper MSP 9110 Oiled Leather stains, Citadel Agrax Earthshade shading, Army Painter Skeleton Bone dry brushing, Reaper MSP HD 29838 Stained olive stains, Reaper MSP HD 29848 Jungle camo stains.
  2. Hello everyone! Halloween is getting close... now's a good time to start chewing garlic. Here's my 77137, Sarcophagus sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.
  3. Hey everyone, here's a two-piece model I painted for my current D&D campaign. Strongly attached to the Halloween theme 77540, Large Sarcophagus sculpted by Kevin Williams. A place of eternal rest, unless there are ghouls around.
  4. Hey everyone, it's been a while since I posted. I was working on a large model. I painted this terrain piece mainly with Reaper MSP paint. The stones were painted with 9088 Stormy Grey and 9089 Cloudy Grey. For the non-metallic metal (NMM) copper on the roof, I used 09030 Leather Brown, 09031 Tanned Leather, 29825 Tusk Ivory and 09039 Pure White. Then, for the verdigris I used a blend of 29848 Jungle Camo, 09294 Alien Goo and 09282 Maggot White. The shingles were painted with 09028 Muddy Brown, 09030 Leather Brown, 09031 Tanned Leather and 29825 Tusk Ivory. I also added rust effect on the metal parts using 09028 Muddy Brown and 09469 Fireball Orange. I finally added shading with a 09255 Black Wash on some areas to give more contrast to the stones and shingles. This Windmill is the second Tabletop World I paint for the hamlet I'm building. I painted it in the same fashion as the Water Well I did two months ago. I will build a base for the windmill later. If you look carefully, you'll see I added six decorative anchor plates on the windmill wall. I designed these structural reinforcements in Inventor software, prepared a program in Chitubox and printed them on my new resin 3D printer. I broke one of them when I removed it from the print supports but I think it’s even more interesting and realistic this way. As you can see on the last pictures, the anchor plates are about 14mm long and only 2mm think. Have a great weekend! Windmill next to the Water Well Model design in Inventor 3D print program in Chitubox 14mm long anchor plates
  5. Hi all, It's been awhile since I have painted! Summers are always busy for me. A few months back I was approached by an old friend who got back into DnD. He started to buy some minis, and I showed him my profile here. Back in June, he called me to ask if I would be interested in painting a special character for his campaign- Harshnag the frost giant. The mini looked cool and I really wanted to help him out, so I said bring it on! It's taken me far too long to do this, but you know what? I kind of like re-paints. There's a level of pressure that's taken off with color choice that is really nice. Anyway, I didn't take many pictures, but here are a few. This is what arrived- pre-painted from WOTC, but only color blocking (ans often a bit sloppy in places). The whole thing would need to be painted over since I'd probably mess up color matching. Here's after having done steps 1-10 or so. Model mostly re-painted and shaded, highlighted, and drybrushed where it needs to be. Still some work to do on the leather. Also decided to add in some bronze for a pop of color- though my buddy specified he wants it weathered and worn down. Here we are after doing the verdigris. The chainmail will be rusted as well- after doing the final verdigris highlights I'll move to the chainmail. I really like the messy verdigris look- I think it draws my eyes to it more, though I'll be continuing to refine a range of verdigris effects in this and future works. The nice thing is I am working on a quick and dirty verdigris technique that I think works really well! Anyway, enjoy! C&C welcome as always.
  6. After ~6 months of not being able to work on projects, I present my first finished project of 2018- an ancient skeleton horde! The goals of the project were to: (1) Start out with a bang in my goal to paint 52 minis this year (2) Add a good deal more skeletons for horde encounters in an upcoming tabletop RPG I am running (3) Get more practice with OSL in a setting that allowed me to try multiple techniques on similar models quickly (eyes) (4) Try my hand at verdigris, again trying multiple techniques to see what I like best (5) Try out doing weapons/armor chipping and weathering. Happy to say all 5 goals were met (just took a long time)! This was a tabletop-level project, so while they aren't perfect, they are "good enough". Please let me know what you think- I relish C&C as it is a critical step in making me a better painter. I also have a question: I need to seal these guys. I want to use a matte sealer for the skeletons themselves (you can see the gloss from where I used quickshade), but I don't want to dull the metals on the arms and armor. What matte brush on sealers does everyone prefer? Thanks for looking!
  7. Hi everyone! So looking back at 2017, I am absolutely ashamed to see that I had only completed 5 (five! Only five!) Miniatures this year. Granted, I didn't have access to my painting stuff until April, and had five major life events happen this year both good and bad. The minis I did complete I am very happy with, and I did really push myself to get better and learn some new techniques. I also started about 30 miniatures that have not been finished, so I did more painting than it seems. When looking at my paint desk it has become apparent that I have far, far too many unfinished projects- including a few from more than four years ago. Therefore I have 3 goals for 2018: 1) paint 52 miniatures within the calendar year. Any stand alone miniature counts. 2) of these 52, complete at least one CAV force to bring to reapercon 2018. 3) complete two unfinished miniatures before starting a new miniature. In that vein, I have started my resolution a little early: These are 20 skeletons from wargames factory I assembled and primed this summer, but never finished as I had airbrush problems. Tonight in about 2 hours I blocked them in woodstain brown and began dry brushing with terrah khaki- a nice bone color by the way! My intention is the shade and highlight them, then arm them. I want to use these guys as an excuse to try verdigris... I am very excited to see how it turns out. If i get these guys done I'll already be more than a third of the way to 52 miniatures. Wish me luck and expect more update soon!
  8. Hi everyone, I need your help. I feel as if I am at a bit of an impasse. I am currently painting an armed force of ancient skeletons. The primary reasons for taking this project was to practice my OSL on the eyes, and trying my hand at verdigris for the first time. I love how both the skeletons and the ancient metal are coming out. However, I feel as if there is not enough contrast on the models, and when viewing them from tabletop distance, they look too... homogeneous. Do they look "boring" to anyone else? Does anyone else have a suggestion for how to fix them?
  9. So, I puzzled over what would be the first thing I would paint from Bones 3; and I decided tonight: the Crypt from the Graveyard Expansion. When I took it out of the package, I saw that the roof of the crypt is very clearly metal plates; and I figured this was a chance for me to try some verdigris, I think it's turning out all right. Here's the progress I made tonight: Base coated the walls, door, floor, and 77137 (Sarcophagus by B. Ridolfi) with RLM grey from Tamiya. Mixed sky blue and cockpit green from Tamiya to make the base verdigris color: stippled on some lavender color (it's one of the Reaper sample paints I got with no name/number attached), and then using Tamiya purple to fill in the summoning circle: Black/brown wash over the floor and I think you can clearly tell evil things are going to be happening here, really soon: Moving back to the roof; I broke out my Tamiya bronze and stippled that rather heavily over the roof: Had to test fit everything together, because reasons, obviously: That's it for today, but it's more paint than I've put on anything in months, so I'm happy; and I'm looking forward to digging through the rest of this expansion: C&C welcome; thanks for taking a look. ~Josh
  10. Young Swamp Dragon "Copper Dragon on Marbled Tiled Hex Base" At the monthly Paint Day I host in Seneca Falls, NY ... Finger Lakes Paint and Game Day ... a Reaper forumite came up for a visit from down near NYC. He brought with him some great pieces of marble tiles that were left over from a floor installation. These tiles are 3/8 inches thick and one inch to a side hexagons of white marble. He gave me several before he left to return home. Not long after that day, I decided to utilize one of his amazing pieces of marble for the Reaper Miniatures Young Swamp Dragon, sculpted by Kevin Williams, that had been sitting in his blister pack on the wall above my work table. But I wanted to really utilize the gleaming white marble and pay an homage to the base. So using plastic squares as individually placed tiles I set out to make a marble floor on top of the marble base. The base turned out wonderfully. But what kind of dragon was I interested in painting? I certainly wasn't interested in making him a "swamp" dragon. After some thought and a comparison of size to some of my other dragons, I decided he would be a copper dragon. But that led to the idea that the copper dragons would molt their skins like lizards and snakes. This molting would in fact take the form of verdigris (copper rust) and form around the outside of the dragon as it slept for long periods. I set out to create a verdigris combination of paints to paint on his wings and underbelly. But after some conversations with other artists and a specific comment from the provider of the marble tile, I decided the dragon was shaking off his molt and scattering bits of the verdigris around the floor and that his wings were still not finished molting and that hardened bits were still attached to the dragon. To see everything that went on in the production of this piece, please check out the WIP. Thus, I present to you, my copper dragon: Enjoy. Check him out in the Inspiration Gallery. (Approved) Added to Thrym's Index of Reaper Miniatures & Thrym's General Show Off List
  11. I give you Sssllthr the latest recruit for my Army of the Lost World. WIP: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/69308-army-of-the-lost-world-xherman1964-paints-coldblooded-creatures/
  12. Was looking for some minis to break up a lot of the groups I have to paint now and decided to paint this not-dragonborn fellow. A player in my D&D campaign plays Dragonborns occasionally and he usually picks the golden one. He was using a mini I had painted as an NPC for Hoarde of the Dragon Queen (which was therefore a blue dragonborn) but I decided I could paint this guy to reflect the character he plays. Of course the curse of painting the mini is on me and now our group is indefinitely on hold. Anyways, enjoyed the verdigris effect of the shield, can't remember who posted the tutorial for that but I bought Reaper Mint Green just with the intention of doing it and decided that could work for his shield. I didn't want to have too much contrasting silver/gold so his armor is sparkling blue. The hilt of his sword was all weird so I thought it kind of looked like sculpted jade and attempted to paint him that way. The only thing I really don't like is I did my usual matte testors spray over the top of him and he's a lot less shiny than when I had just painted him. I am debating going back over his shiny bits (like his scales) with a semi-gloss but am not fully decided yet. Anyways, thank you for reading!
  13. This was a quick paint inspired by a few threads. The detail is in the WIP, which starts here. This was totally fun, though I realized I have no bronze paint, so I mixed up an oiled bronze from black, a dark brown and copper.. and a bit of antique gold. It looked OK by my inexpert eye.
  14. Frogimus posted this awesome formula for verdigris in this post: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/64829-statue-for-frostgrave-proof-of-concept/?hl=verdigris#entry1242403 Base coat is Reaper 09263 Mint Green, followed by Army Painter Soft Tone, then dry brushed with Reaper 09049 Ancient Bronze. And I kinda got carried away... Repainted Prepaint Brass Golem from Wizards of the coast: Reaper 50313 Wild West Wizard of Oz Tin Man: Reaper Bones 77025 Giant Spider, I really think the eyes came out good on this one (the frontal picture really creeped me out when I was working on reducing its size). Reaper Bones 77168 Battleguard Golem, I tried to paint his pouches as if they were old and moldy... Reaper Bones 77256 Brass Bull:
  15. I've always wanted to do a verdigris miniature. It's been nearly 13 months since I first picked up a brush, and while I still have a lot to learn, I am far more comfortable trying new things now as opposed to when I started. Anyway, this is my WIP Iron Golem. I wanted to do light verdigris--not fully consumed metal, and so I kept my effect to the places that I thought would be weathered most. While it wasn't in progress in this set of pictures, I had only just slapped on my base layers, I am also going to attempt a rust-effect on the sword. For the metal, I've used a combination of four paints: Reaper Scorched Metal, Reaper Ancient Bronze, Reaper Antique Gold and Vallejo Game Colour Brassy Brass. For the base coat, I mixed equal parts Ancient Bronze and Scorched Metal to Brassy Brass in order to create a dark, brownish-red metal nearly that of a mahogany. Then, I used different combinations of the Ancient Bronze, Brass Brass and Antique Gold and layered highlight upon highlight, to give the metal a realistic-look. The verdigris has (so far) consisted of: Vallejo Game Colour Turquoise, Reaper Surf Aqua and Reaper Mint Green. I made MANY different combinations of the paints to build up the verdigris, about 7 or 8, from greener hues to more blueish, brighter hues, so I can't really give too much of a recipe guide unfortunately. In places where I wanted the verdigris less prominent, such as the shadows under the arms or in the small of the back, etc., I used heavily diluted Army Painter Strong Tone Ink. To give some of the verdigris a greener tint in places where I wanted it to have less "pop," I used heavily diluted Army painter Soft Tone Ink, as it is a very soft, almost tan brown. Anyways, the mini is about 65% completed, and while I know that that's a bit far along for a WIP, i really wanted to try and document at least SOME of my progress to get some input, suggestions and opinions.
  16. Credit to Daniel36 on the Warseer forums, since this is where I originally saw this. His rust effects are what I use on the few things I make rusty. Problem is, his pictures were on Photobucket, and they have since disappeared. I will make notes of my differences in paints and what I do differently in the steps, as he is using GW paints and has some differences on what kind of rust he wanted. I prefer a more brownish orange rust, myself. Except for my notes and added steps below, this is a direct cut and paste, since his photos have long since disappeared. The aim for this was tabletop quality, however, I can use the same technique for display style quality (I did my dragon, Abyzarran, using similar techniques to the verdigris, and I used those same techniques on the gears of his base). Total time spent painting the golem between last night and today, including drying times was about 3.5 hours. Now, onto the Tutorial itself. I will warn you, this is taken directly on my workspace, so the pictures aren't the prettiest, but they came out pretty well. Step 1 Base in a dark tone. I use Vallejo Game Color Charred Brown as my base, you will note that, even with the Bones, I prime a medium-light grey. I personally like this regardless of what paint I put on top. My mix is 3:1 RMS Black Primer to 1 Vallejo Game Color White Primer, just enough tooth and just enough butter. You could probably use a similar "mix" of primers, even doing all black or white, or everything in between. The base is a 40mm resin base that I cast myself, along with a pair of rocks using a couple of rubber molds used for model trains. Great for filling up that extra space! Step 2 Once you have your dark base, here's where you start building up. I tend to stipple this, and it shows in the pictures. I use VGC Beasty Brown. The other thing of note is my brush. I use a pig hair brush intended for stippling. This is very handy and makes some of the work easier. When doing display quality, use something better (and SMALLER!), but this worked for my purposes for getting a second, tabletop golem out there for future player torment. Step 3 I diverge from Daniel 36 at this point. I begin with stippling Vallejo Game Color Fire Orange (really, any bright orange will do, but this one really pops and resists our next steps. Step 4: Lining where I want the metals to show. Yes, I want the golem to look like he's articulated and moving along the edges. I did this with my trusty #2, and used Vallejo Model Color German Grey. Step 5 Now, to bring down my rust tones, I follow his original step 5, and wash with a mix of VGC Charred Brown and Leather Brown This plays a huge role later on, when I return to this, using reds and oranges. This is also where his tutorial ends and I continue, since Verdigris is also going to happen. Step 6 We're going to start metals after this, so I want to be clear, we will return to the rust later on, but the metals become important in my sequence, while you may choose to complete the rust effects in your own path, this is my path. I start by painting the Shoulders Vallejo Model Color Brass and the steel areas with VMC Oily Steel. I will note I brought down the brightness, as the metals seem to glow when I do the standard adjustment. Step 7 This is my Verdigris recipe. I do not use Acrylic inks, I use India Inks. 2 parts Bombay Turquoise Ink, 2 parts Bombay Green Ink, 1 drop of Vallejo Model Color White paint. Step 8 Reclaim some of the areas of Verdigris with Brass paint. This will be done in a transparent, slow manner on a normal figure, but, for this guy, it was done a lot faster. Step 9: Back to the Rust! And Gem stones. I started them when I added the reds and oranges to the main body as well, as they were simple enough to add and contrasted with the surrounding verdigris. Following steps 1-5, I painted the sword of the golem, and began adding reds to the main body of the golem Step 10: Adding more interest with some scrapes on the sword. Step 11: Flock and Done! And, go hang out with an old war buddy while you're at it.
  17. With all these great looking miniatures being posted, I thought I'd show off the other end of the spectrum with my latest beginner level dwarf :) I got some feedback on my last mini that I neglected the metallics, so I tried to do a little better this time. C&C welcome!
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