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Wear and tear is usually a welcome addition to most vehicle models. After all, tank armor is made to take a few hits. One of the things to keep in mind when painting something like that is the story it tells. Where and how you place it tells of how the damage happened. Rusty areas are older than shining metal showing through- moreso if there are streaks of rust leading down. A combination of rust and metal shows that this is a place where the rust layer gets scrapped off. This vehicle is from Seedy Tea Publishing‘s Simulacrum Protocol line.

Hi everyone, here's another Dungeon Dwellers model. 07012, Caerindra Thistlemoor was sculpted by Bobby Jackson. I painted it with Reaper’s MSP acrylics, shaded with Citadel inks, used Vallejo Acrylic Matt Varnish and 3D printed the base. Her left eye is not as sharp as I'd like it to be, she seems to have a black eye, I will need to fix this.

Hello everyone, And welcome to my weathering class. No. Not WEATHER - WEATHERING. So more like this: After having worked on some vehicles for quite some time and having recently finished some tanks in winter camouflage (check out ->here<-, ->here<- and ->here<-), I was asked to do a tutorial and explain some weathering techniques. That said, I have to be honest and want to make clear that I LOVE to overdo it, so that things pop out on the table. If that's too much for you, you need to adjust on your vehicles and stuff accordingly. As it is hard to give an overview over the topic of weathering and find THE solution to all the different approaches of aging a vehicle, house or other mechanical thing, I will use different vehicles and techniques and explain everything in order for every vehicle I work on - so maybe a technique that suits you won't be done in the first tutorial, but in a later work. So please be patient. First off: If you want to see some people doing great stuff with different models and weathering techniques, check out these channels on Youtube: ->Plasmo - Plastic Models<- ->Andy's Hobby Headquarters<- ->Doctor Fausts Painting Clinic<- ->Laser Creation World<- They may answer some questions you have and provide in-depth sight into the process of weathering a vehicle or building (which means: this tutorial is basically meaningless - haha) Anyway: Let's get started! Table of Contents: What's Weathering? Going the first mile (How to plan and to start) (Under construction)

Finally got around to take pictures of my Warhammer diorama. I entered it into a local competition, and was lucky enough to win the Warhammer category. Thanks to everyone who wrote a comment in the WIP thread. Link here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/81383-warhammer-diorama-pic-heavy/ ..Sorry for the overload of pictures! -could'nt help myself.. Although on these pictures I can see many mistakes, I am quite happy with it. Hope you enjoy it, and as always any comment, critiq or question is welcome.

This is my first go at using chipping medium, and in all an experiment with weathering. Just wanted to share my experiment with everyone, do not really consider this as a tutorial as I did not know what I was doing. :o) 1. A piece of a blister pack plastic, prime black, and painted a mix of Black Brown and Dry Rust. 2. Wet blending with following colors in random pattern; Black Brown, Wet Mud, Explosion Orange. 3. Wash with mix of Flesh Wash and Dark Red. 4. Stipling and a bit of wet blending with Wet Mud and Explosion Orange. 5. Wash with mix of Flesh Wash and Wet Mud. 6. Adding Chipping medium to the top and water and salt to the bottom. The idea with the salt is that it can be peeled of later to leave 'paint chips'. But I only seen it achived with an airbrush, so wanted to try it with brush. 7. Green paint, couple of layers. Way most of the salt fell off, leaving only the very small pieces, they do give a good structure of rust-bubling paint though. 8. Water to start the chipping. I ned a bit more patience, so the first chips went too deep and removed some of the brown paint too. And to get the chipping look good seems to need some practice.. I used a tooth brush and a tooth pick to scratch the green paint off. 9. 'Repaired' some places with stipling of Wet Mud and Explosion Orange and a wash of Dry Rust. 10. Added streaks with Strong Tone and Dry Rust. And made the rust patches darker with Dry Rust. Those streaks really breathed life into the decay. Done! Came out allright, but the streaks seems to be making a big difference.im

After ~6 months of not being able to work on projects, I present my first finished project of 2018- an ancient skeleton horde! The goals of the project were to: (1) Start out with a bang in my goal to paint 52 minis this year (2) Add a good deal more skeletons for horde encounters in an upcoming tabletop RPG I am running (3) Get more practice with OSL in a setting that allowed me to try multiple techniques on similar models quickly (eyes) (4) Try my hand at verdigris, again trying multiple techniques to see what I like best (5) Try out doing weapons/armor chipping and weathering. Happy to say all 5 goals were met (just took a long time)! This was a tabletop-level project, so while they aren't perfect, they are "good enough". Please let me know what you think- I relish C&C as it is a critical step in making me a better painter. I also have a question: I need to seal these guys. I want to use a matte sealer for the skeletons themselves (you can see the gloss from where I used quickshade), but I don't want to dull the metals on the arms and armor. What matte brush on sealers does everyone prefer? Thanks for looking!

Hi everyone, I need your help. I feel as if I am at a bit of an impasse. I am currently painting an armed force of ancient skeletons. The primary reasons for taking this project was to practice my OSL on the eyes, and trying my hand at verdigris for the first time. I love how both the skeletons and the ancient metal are coming out. However, I feel as if there is not enough contrast on the models, and when viewing them from tabletop distance, they look too... homogeneous. Do they look "boring" to anyone else? Does anyone else have a suggestion for how to fix them?

Okay all, I'm sure you've noticed that I've popped back up on the forum. Basically, I'm picking back up where I left off, with the exception I've also started getting into armor as well as minis. At any rate, where I left off was that I was about to start messing around with pigments. The problem is, I'm not sure which line, if any, to go with. What got me started was the Tiger 1 model I'm currently working on. I decided that I needed pigments to weather it, but got impatient and just started using what I had lying around. I sufficiently muddied the thing, and now I'm going to have to make a muddy diorama to go along with it to justify Hans and Franz' off-roading antics, but I digress... What I'm curious about is what brands do some of you use/recommend? I'm leaning towards the Secret Weapons weathering pigment set as it has quite a few pigments in it, and I can't see needing more than that. However, I'm also aware that Scale75, Tamiya, and quite a few others I hadn't heard of before also produce pigments. Shoot, I even made a rust pigment in the past to use on one of the exchanges we did on the forum, and I may just make lampblack to finish out the sooty areas that need to be on the Tiger. At any rate, I'd love to hear y'alls experience with whatever powdered pigments you've used in the past. Thanks for any input you can provide! -K

Hello all! While I'm waiting for my dull coat to dry so I can finish basing, I was curious if anyone has any experience with weathering pigments. I came across these at Hobby Lobby today: http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/87080weathering/ Our Hobby Lobby recently upgraded its inventory, so there's a LOT more Tamiya, Vallejo, etc. products. I've seen similar products over at the Secret Weapon website: http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=37_38 So, what's the sitch? These look like they could be useful....