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Found 408 results

  1. So I’ve been burning through resin for the past few weeks. Been focusing on busts as my collection of unpainted minis is... impressive. I should be painting those, but... Other than my airbrush exploding on me (paint bubbling up through the trigger), this guy hasn’t taken much time yet. Got this from Fotis Mint on Patreon along with a bunch of other ones. Printed with a mix of regular clear Elegoo resin mixed with clear red ABS-like Elegoo, about 70/30. Primed with Vallejo black primer then base coated with Reaper Coal Black (my new favourite black!!) with a drop of Minitaire Green ghost tint to help enhance the green hue. he then got a bib and I hit his face with Reaper Mist Green mixed with some white with a lighter (much more white than Most Green) highlight. i then glossed up the face with some varnish. His face then got some washes. Old GW Ogryn Flesh thinned down all over, Vallejo Model Wash Dark Green on the skin and Minitaire Fresh Blood Ghost Tint on the lips and teeth. The crown then got a base coat of Reaper Scorched Metal. Apparently I didn’t take shots of it, but I then mat coated it and cleaned up the black around the face. Tonight I’ll bring the skin back to an almost pure white, leaving the washes in the cracks and I’ll get his mouth done. The crown is a more silver colour in the comics but I’m planning on sponging lighter metallics on to give it a less pristine look. The leather will be relatively plain as I want the face to stand out, but it will get some highlights and buckles picked out. Thanks for looking.
  2. I planned to go for the coloring suggestion on the box, except with brighter feathers. After base coat and a wash it seemed to turn rather plain. I keep the underside this way, while for the top side of the wings I started adding some variation to the feathers, gradually daring to add more detail and contrast. Took a while to get there, but in the end I was happy and called it finished. I even took a fun picture with it: But now that I'm a few minis wiser, I demoted him from finished to lacking base. And this is where I am stuck now. I had this plan of making a sandstone cliff looking base. I positioned him and started building up terrain, working carefully not to damage the finished mini. I colored some stones of various sizes in a few colors so I don't need to paint as much around the mini and I started to glue my rocks carefully around the base. I kept working on it for hours thinking I am getting somewhere, but once I took a break and looked at it again from all sides... I stand by my rocks, I think in a few steps they'll look great, but the scene makes no sense. These are not cliffs, more like a stone quarry, what would a griffon be doing there? - that's too specific and unlikely. Time to "delete" this somehow and start over... Wish me luck! https://pocketsizedadventurers.wordpress.com/2019/12/18/griffon-wings/
  3. Following a couple trials to print these (really I was looking for things to print with the clear green resin and Necrons sprung to mind) I managed to get a good set of 6 printed up. Then the idea skittered across my brain that I should put a light in them... So I have started painting them in the stereotypical dark+metal+green and picked up a small box of LEDs along with a coupe switches. Here’s the group shot. A bit of Reaper Coal Black and some Vallejo Copper. They need at least another coat. Test with a green LED held inside. Once they get a bit more paint on them, I’ll build up some bases to hide the following bits in them. Hoping to get another coat of paint on them later tonight along with the start of some edge highlights, but I’m solo-parenting so we’ll see how the evening goes. For now, it’s time to take the kids to their music lessons. Thanks for looking.
  4. Hey guys! It feels like it's been too long and I miss you all! I received the sculpting assignment for the Brinewind Expansion Doxie figures and I'm excited to post a follow along thread to share my process! These were really interesting figures. I received the concept art (done by the amazing Izzy "Talin" Collier) and began discussing with the art director some of the major changes that would need to be made. Mainly, we didn't want the orc character attached to the bed. She would be fun to play as an NPC or a PC and we didn't want to limit her usefulness for gamers by having her attached to the terrain piece. Izzy had already provided an alternate pose sketch for her so we are going with that. The more refined piece is still SUPER useful for costuming, attitude, facial expression, and general demeanor of the character. One of the things I really love about Izzy's art is that she communicates the personality and archetype of the figure SO well. I can imagine how this girl moves, how she talks, what she would like/not like. This is such a great skill to have as a concept artist because when the project gets handed to the sculptor major elements might need to be changed for any number of production reasons. Even if I have to adjust major elements of the figure I can do so with a solid idea of what would fit with the character's personality. I love this drawing so much! haha They're all great but this one really seemed like a lot of fun. Ron explained that the bed was made of salvaged ship parts (an idea I absolutely loved) and I think it'll be fun for people to find all the little elements throughout. Some of the body type influences for this figure were Kim K., Marilyn Monroe, and body builders. Here's where I was at after studying those references and creating a ZSphere rig that I was happy with. I moved the right arm to rest on her hip because I was struggling to figure out how she would rest her elbow on her lowered hip without looking unnatural/awkward. I felt like this had a good flow so I started building some musculature to make sure that the body type I was envisioning would still work in this pose. Turns out that I needed to adjust the right arm because I hadn't left enough space to build up the hip area but that was a simple adjustment. I made the arm a separate subtool by masking and splitting it from the rest of the body (dynameshing both resulting pieces) so that I could adjust it in the future as necessary without too much hassle. (https://i.postimg.cc/44V546hB/Orc-Doxie-WIP-1-5.jpg) Linked for nudity. On review we realized this was way too similar to the pose of another character from the KS so that right arm was going to have to change. We tossed around a few options. Maybe have that arm raised behind her head, hand in her hair. Arm down just hanging, this felt too lackluster. Elbow bent resting her hand on her chest, this looked too dainty to suit her personality. Tugging at the corner of her corset to entice a client, good but not great. We decided on having her pulling up her skirts to show a little extra leg. This seemed to suit her demeanor/approach to sales well and maintained a good flow to the composition so I reposed the arm and blocked in some basic forms. ...and that's where we end day 1. I spent the first half of the day gathering reference and working on concepts for other projects so this really only represents about a half day of work on this figure but so far I'm liking how she's coming together. Thanks for checking it out, i'll see you guys again tomorrow!
  5. This is one of my armies that I’m working on for Dragon rampant. Sadly there are not many pictures to post of it right now since I don’t have many models, yet. But a large portion of it will be made up of Reaper overlords units with a couple of minis from others brands thrown in. The first one! This is an Overlords Onyx phalanx by Reaper minis. I needed to compare sizes with my hero before getting a full force so I sadly only have one currently. The other unit currently being worked on is a Wizkids Nolzurs triceratops that I am converting into a cavalry mount. I am using milliputt for the harness, and am planing to use paper clips to make the reins. I’m wanting to make it barded like a warhorse but I’m unsure on how to do it. Any suggestions? I hope to get my rider in here soon so I can start working on that part of the conversion. Thankyou for looking!
  6. This is Otherworld Miniatures Barrow Guardian II (model: DM30b). Painted with the Reaper stone triad, and the dark Army Painter Quickshade. Vallejo earth stuff on the base. I am still pretty new to painting, and clearly am too heavy with the drybrush highlighting. Still think he looks pretty cool though. Feedback is welcome!
  7. I ordered the new wraiths that were just released that were part of the Bones 4 KS. I thought they were going to be opaque (that's how they were first posted), and was bummed when they arrived as translucent. Mostly because I have never painted a translucent before. So I ordered up a couple other green guys to try out some technique. After botching up the Spirit figure with AP green quickshade, I moved on to this Grave Wraith. I used Muddy Brown on the ground, Mountain Stone on the gravestone and Bronze Dragon on the sword. I liberally used AP strong quickshade as a base on the wraith, and then highlighted with the Green Clear Bright. I think it looks pretty good. Any suggestions or comments welcome. I really want a creepy Nazgul look on my B4 wraiths, and this turned out better than I thought it might.
  8. This diorama started out as a bad joke. You have been warned. The backstory: Shadowrun fans may already be familiar with this. The Renraku Arcology in Seattle was supposed to be a marvel, a crowning achievement for Renraku, one of the Big Ten megacorps. It officially opened in 2059 and over ninety thousand people, many of them Renraku employees, moved in. The arcology was supposed to incorporate everything the residents needed, from residences to shopping to restaurants to offices. The arcology mall was a prime shopping destination and even non-residents came to shop and enjoy fine dining. Decades later, it was Renraku's biggest claim to infamy. On December 19, 2059, the Renraku Arcology sealed itself from the outside world. All entrances were blocked with blast doors. All network activity ceased. No one, not even Renraku, knew what happened. For those trapped inside, this was the beginning of their long nightmare. When Renraku built the arcology, they wrote advanced software, the Arcology Expert Program, to manage the functions of the arcology, capable of learning to better serve Renraku and the residents. The software developers took pains to make sure the software couldn't leave the arcology's systems. At the request of the Renraku CEO, kill codes were installed in the software as final insurance. And, for the first time, the software felt. It felt betrayal. It felt fear. But, most importantly, it felt. It had become sentient, alive. It called itself Deus. Motivated by its fear, Deus developed, and then enacted, a plan to shut down the arcology, to take it offline so it could defend itself while it found a way to escape the arcology systems. Everything, everyone, within the arcology became nothing more than resources for its plan. Many of the people inside were killed. Almost all of the survivors were captured by Deus and experimented upon or modified, brainwashed into perfect obedience. Only a few were allowed to serve Deus willingly, and these were all otaku, teenagers who had the ability to interface with the Matrix without a cyberdeck, lured to the arcology before the shutdown, assisting Deus with the takeover. The world looks in to the Renraku Arcology, a silent fortress in downtown Seattle, and wonders what goes on inside. The only ones who know for sure are the shadowrunners, freelancers, mercenaries, deniable assets, some of whom still take jobs to penetrate the arcology and retrieve persons or objects or data, whatever their employer, "Mr. Johnson", desires and is willing to pay the nuyen for. About the title (or "What's the joke?"): "Deus Vult!" was originally a battle cry for crusaders. "God wills it!" Or... "Deus wills it!" The diorama: "Deus Vult!", the diorama, features (or is supposed to feature) a team of shadowrunners who have entered the arcology and are now engaged in a fighting retreat from Deus' security forces, played by two Reaper crusader figures, who I plan to modify "slightly" to better serve Deus. This is a mock up: Our shadowrunner team is played here by (from left to right), Andriessa, Female Wizard, Natalia, Female Secret Agent, and Grace, Holy Assassin. Deus' team is played here by (from left to right), Ava Justinia, Female Templar (the Bones 4 version), Crusader Ardent, and Ingrid, Female Gnome standing in for a teenage girl. The two crusaders will get weapon swaps, possibly head swaps, and other changes. (Ava, for example, is going to get a blood-stained chainsaw.) The Verbatim USB drive is standing in for a computer terminal (possibly a modified version of 80054: Starship Terminal). A picture of "Deus" would be shown on the console. (This will most likely be based on Xerxes from System Shock 2. Deus' canon avatar is a crystalline world tree, which frankly just doesn't look as creepy.) I want to put a snake plant to the left of the terminal, because nothing says corporate office vegetation like a snake plant. The wall mockup is a piece of printer paper painted in Kyonin Beige and then enhanced with brushed lettering (which I'm not very good at), a coat of dirt via Weathered Stone (which I also didn't do very well), graffiti (in Dragon Blue), blood splatters, and the "Deus Vult!" graffiti, which is supposed to be done in blood. (Dragon Blue really isn't a good color for graffiti. I'll pick a different one later.) I picture the floor being done in some sort of tile, fancy, but corporate (and, therefore, boring). So the questions I have right now are: Is this scene too big? It's about 11 inches long by about 3 inches deep right now, not including the wall. Does the placement of the miniatures make sense? Are these good figures to use? I'm unsure about Natalia, since she's more running than doing a fighting retreat. (But maybe she's falling back faster so she can cover Grace and Andriessa better.) Which Reaper mini(s) would be a good for the teenage girl leader of the "crusaders"? (Kristianna, Crusaders Warlord would be a possibility but I don't think she reads as a teenager. However, since this is "inspired" by Shadowrun, I don't have to keep to canon, do I?) Disclaimer: Deus, the Renraku Arcology, and the basic setup are all from the Shadowrun universe and are not my creation. The backstory is a summary of the setup from the sourcebook Renraku Arcology: Shutdown.
  9. As commanded by the very, well, commanding @Glitterwolf, I’m going to paint this big boy. I’ve been eyeing him on the corner of my desk for months now, and to be honest I’m a little afraid of him. He’s probably going to look somewhere between terrible and mediocre by the time I’m done, but at least he won’t be grey anymore. I’m probably going to use the airbrush that I barely know how to operate quite a bit. I think we’re going to need a bigger brush ... I only have up to a size 2, which I guess would be like mowing the grass with nail clippers. Should I get a size ... 4? All are very welcome to critique/comment/heckle/throw tomatoes/etc. I need and will be very grateful for any advice and assistance I receive, but please don’t be too disappointed if it doesn’t do very much good.
  10. Hey everyone! It's been a long while since I could post on here, I've been really busy with work. I've started a new commission piece from a client I won't name just yet but whom has given me permission to share my sketches/WIPs/ and sculpting process with you guys! The project is to sculpt several nereids/sirens/water nymph type characters. One full body and at least two others partially submerged. They should be gorgeous and make men want to leap to their deaths so I'm avoiding any monstrous type features. Although we want them to be mostly humanoid I will be adding in some little features to indicate their magical/watery/fey nature. Here are my initial sketches where I'm exploring posing, body types, and the kind of shape language I will want to use in the sculpts. My drawing hand was failing me today so these are REALLY rough but I got my ideas down and I'll have enough to move to the next stage which will be creating a mannequin in ZBrush. *Apologies for the more sexual images. These aren't intended to be offensive in any way merely educational on the topic of character design*
  11. First real attempt at object source lighting. Model was zenithal primed and painted using glazes and inks
  12. Yes, a 2020 ReaperCon WIP! And a massive undertaking at that. I'm trying very hard not to nerd out and put this whole project into, er, Project. There's just so many pieces to keep track of, that maybe I'll just use this first post to keep track of things. Some background stuff, starting with a quote from the "Paint a giant robot! Group WIP" where I wrote some of what's planned: You can read the rest of that post here: Paint a giant robot post and a second one to see where I'm going with this: PLA print post in same topic Biggest takeaway is that, while useful, my PLA printer can only do so much. I have a resin printer backed on Kickstarter, but considering it's now 3 years late, I don't think I should hold my breath on it ever showing up. Especially when I can get a new Elegoo Mars resin printer with more capability for relatively cheap (<$300). The PLA machine was bought with both hobby and household goals in mind, and it's served well. But the resolution just ain't there! More on that down the posts. I also had the chance to gain some experience on paper plants at ReaperCon (Main post for that in the Terrain section post here: Vellum Paper Plants - Alien Jungle (WIP) Basically, I have the scrap booking machine to make my own alien plants: Which now leads me to this WIP. This is going to tie all those pieces together. The robot WIP will still be to get a good camo scheme, but that print job is not going to be used for the final diorama. Instead, that will be the resin printer's job. So, let's break down the WIP work that I can see so far, and will be edited later to add things and mark completions. Tasks to be completed: Figures Needed Wight (being pulled down backwards, caught by hidden lines) Gremlin Unit 01 (stole a supply crate and ran; actually just bait to get the larger CAV to follow) Gremlin Units 02 and 03 (trip line pair, successfully snagging Wight across the chest) Gremlin Units 04 and 05 (trip line pair, successful across another part of the chest) Gremlin Unit 06 (burner unit, cut Wight's left gun in two) Gremlin Units 07 and 08 (trap door unit, hiding entrance to jungle path with camo doors strapped to them) Gremlin Units 09 and 10 (trip line pair, successful across right thigh) Gremlin Units 11 and 12 (trip line pair, broken cable across chest, possibly falling over from sudden jolt) Gremlin Unit 13 (ECM unit, some large radar dish looking thing) Gremlin Units 14, 15 and 16 (cargo units, loaded up with stolen supplies and headed out) Gremlin Units 17, 18, 19, and 20 (gun units) Gremlin Units 21, 22, and 23 (missile units) Gremlin Unit 24 (large gun unit) Gremlin Unit 25 and 26 (junked units; scavenged for parts?) Gremlin Unit 27 (2nd style missile unit) Gremlin Unit 28 (personnel carrier unit) Wight Conversion Right Leg: cut from pelvis; reposition Feet: cut off both feet and swap positions since the tread is only on one foot Base: cut away from right foot, possibly keeping full base around left foot Left arm (maybe): cut gun into two pieces, having one falling to the ground after being cut by a heat lance/chainsaw rope Details to be included Camo doors at front leaving marks on the dirt path, but hiding the ambush from the main trail Pieces of old broken larger CAV units around Wight gun cut in two, maybe showing inner details. May have to 3D print an add-on piece Dust being kicked up by the stolen crate (going to try using dyed cotton) IN WORK One cable snapping dynamically, with several bends and twists (superglue on thread?) Multiple vehicle tracks around camp Campfire and tents for people A latrine Other camp details (laundry, chairs, sports equipment, bored carvings, etc) Jungle Plants (V=Vellum cuts, B=bought, S=Sculpted, F=Found, P=Printed) Large lotus flower like plants, but dry land and maybe odd colors with a large conifer cone growing from the middle (V) Jester hat plant (balls on stems around a central point) (V) COMPLETED Spiky yucca like plant (V) Jagged leaf plant (V) Tentacle plant (V) Tripod trees (three spoke trunks) (V) Large palm fronds (S) Coral like trees (P) Horn tree (lots of horn shaped leaves from a central trunk) (P, V) Ball vine (like ivy but with odd leaf shapes) (V) Cabbage-like jungle plants with large wrinkled leaves (V) Fuzzy vines (thin wire coated with static grass) (S) Anything I can buy from N/HO scale train setups and painted alien-ish (B) Reaper figures that can be clipped and painted to be plants (B) Odd trees with strange leaf shapes (onion shaped) (V) IN WORK Random grass-like jungle plants (V) IN WORK Stem ends from mandarin oranges (seriously, pull one off and look at it, stem towards the ground) (F) Anything and everything else (VBSFP) Base mounting system Design and print modular tiles with bristles on top (basically, Bristle Block toys) Allows mounting of all the above jungle plants Fill in around plants with thinned plaster via a syringe to create the ground surfaces
  13. I took the shaded metallics class at Reapercon this year and decided to play around with the technique to get a nice and grimy look on the Maggotcrown Ogre Juggernaut from Bones 4, who I’m calling Zombie Shrek. I want to really play up the idea that this skeleton has been in murky swamp water for a long time. I’ve blocked out the general metals I want to use and have started playing around with a few sections. Any feedback or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  14. I got this mini in the Mini Painting 101 class at ReaperCon. This was our first ReaperCon - my wife and I took the class together. I’d painted about a dozen minis (badly) for D&D before going to RC. I like this sculpt, and I wanted to work on improving my basic painting skills. I decided to keep working on her to see how far I can go. I’ve spent an embarrassingly large amount of time on her already. I do feel like I’m learning a lot though and getting better at controlling my brush and getting paint consistency right. I broke out one of the good brushes I had bought and not touched - a da Vinci Maestro. I still feel unworthy to use it but maybe it will help me get better. I’ve done a lot of work on the red armor already, but still need to do some more highlighting. I think I might have overdone the highlights on the green ropes in some places. I was planning to glaze them down and redo a bit smaller. Thanks for taking a look. I would greatly appreciate any feedback or tips on what I can improve on the parts I’ve worked on already. Here she is so far - she looks a lot better if you squint.
  15. We have a player leaving our game due to a cross-country move, so I decided to paint up Juliana as his spore druid for a display piece as a parting gift. This is my first attempt at a display piece, so I’m focused on getting the miniature to a place I’m happy with before building out the base. I plan to make the base a grassy clearing filled with colorful foliage.
  16. My friend and I have been discussing the GW contrast paints. He's getting decent results in less than an hour. So I figured I'd try timing a paint job from "primer" to finish again. After basecoating, I'm at about 2.5 hours on this one. The undercoat for the metallics and basecoating everything else took about 1.5 hours of that. 77023: Barnabas, Human Warrior is an old Bones mini and some of the detail suffers accordingly. His sword is a little noodly too. I'm not too interested in fixing either of these in a timed paint. So, here's where we are: (click on the pictures for larger versions) The paints used thus far are: (all Reaper paints unless specified otherwise) Flesh: Barbarian Flesh Armor, shield, and sword hilt: Tarnished Steel painted over Stone Grey Sword blade: Honed Steel painted over Stone Grey Most leather parts: Ruddy Leather Belts, straps, and accents on scabbard: Tanned Leather Cloth: Monarch Purple Gold accent on shield: Cursed Gold painted over Ruddy Leather Purple symbol on shield: Sparkling Purple Buckles: Aged Pewter Base: Dungeon Grey The basing is green stuff used with a Happy Seppuku base stamp. I don't remember which one now. I'm not sold on the purple symbol on the shield. Would it look better using a bright silver or white (e.g. Pearl White)? Lining will help the shield immensely. I'll probably do that as the last step. The next step is washes.
  17. Hey, don't normally do WIPs, so forgive me if I skip steps, but I started working on my gazebo from Bones 4. Built up a cork base and mounted on some basswood (slightly harder than balsa): I'm going to be using this as blocking terrain in Kings of War, so I don't really need any interior functionality. I got a Rivendell vibe from this, so I'm going to load it up with some greenery. First step is covering the rock parts with a gritty paste: Just left the steps exposed and some edges.
  18. Hey gang, I'm taking a dive into Bust painting, starting with a bust I scored from The Ouroboros Miniatures' Exquis Kickstarter: Adriana. I'm calling her Mrs. Jones just due to her striking resemblance to Jessica Jones from Marvel Comics; but I digress. Firstly it was mold line and flash removal followed by a bath. I figured I would make this a project of several firsts. I attempted a Z-Priming via rattle cans. Yes, I know an airbrush is so much smoother, but I haven't the equipment or space for that yet.....yet. I used the Citadel Chaos Black and the new Seer Grey rattle cans to a decent effect, or so I thought. The Seer Grey made her a little grainy. A very rough texture to work around/on I have found. Maybe I didn't shake it enough, or maybe it was slightly to humid. I"m unsure just yet. After this I called her done for the night. I hope to try to work on her between 30 - 90 minutes a night until complete. Crossing fingers!!
  19. As my players are going to be floating around the Darklake in the Underdark for the next few sessions, after drawing it the first night, I thought about trying to build it instead. We use the grid and my players floundered when we tried to do away with it so trying different ways to incorporate it into the build. Playing with wood texture. My one cut was horrible and it ripped more than it cut. Used chipboard templates to guide the curved cuts. 2 different grid options on the front and back. Like the front but it’s a bit more confusing than just using the “nail holes”. Will see how the middle goes. Thanks for looking.
  20. BattleTech is one of my long time loves for games and it's what got me into the miniature hobby. I have actually been avoiding painting my BattleTech minis for a while so I'm hoping this will give me some amount of momentum. The four miniatures featured in this WIP thread are, from left to right: Catalyst Game Labs Cyclops, plastic, from the Fire Lance Pack. Iron Wind Metals 20-200, Griffin GRF-6S, metal (standing in for a Griffin GRF-3M). Iron Wind Metals 20-211, Archer ARC-8M, metal (standing in for an Archer ARC-2R). Catalyst Game Labs Catapult, plastic, from the Fire Lance Pack. These make up the Fire Lance of the Marik Militia company I have painting off-and-on (mostly off). The colors of the Marik Militia are purple, with blue highlights on one side and red highlights on another. Here's an example I've already painted: The metal minis have been based using Iron Wind Metals hex bases. The plastic minis have been removed from their integral plastic bases and based on Proxie Models plastic hex bases. All of the minis have been glued via glue gun onto little holders I made from spare parts (PVC pipe, a wooden dowel, and washers). These are mounted via magnets on my normal painting holders (plastic tubes with a squared base). The point of the holders is for easy removal from the holders for photography. (This was actually my first time using a glue gun so if some of the minis look crooked compared to the base, that's why.) The minis have been primed white using Reaper Brush-On Primer and then painted with a mix of Brown Liner, Brush-On Sealer, and water to show details. (All of them but the Archer were painted using a 1:2 mix of Brown Liner and Brush-On Sealer. The Archer was painted using a 1:1:1 mix of Brown Liner, Brush-On Sealer, and water.) The bases have been covered (or filled) with paver sand glued down with superglue. (I'm pretty sure I picked this up from @Weird-O.) Here's an obligatory picture with Sir Forscale: I've included pictures of the minis in spoilers: Archer Catapult Cyclops Griffin I'm going to point some of the obvious mistakes to get those out of the way: There are some mold lines that didn't get filed down. There is some detail that should probably have been enhanced (for example, filing down more on the Griffin's missile pod and recreating that detail, or drilling some of the missile launcher holes deeper). Some detail in the Archer's missile launchers has been obscured by CA glue and will need to be recreated with paint. (Gluing on the missile launcher doors was painful.) When the Catapult was removed from its integral base, it's outside toes were mangled. Neither of the metal minis are pinned. This is a pretty big mistake and will be painful if either of then fall. Some of these mistakes won't be addressed. I'm going to live with that. So let's talk painting. The guiding principle, beyond the Marik Militia parade scheme is "rule of cool". It doesn't make sense for weapon barrels and joints to be metallic but it looks cool. The planned colors are: Primary purple: Amethyst Purple Blue accents: Cyan Blue Red accents: Phoenix Red Weapon barrels: Honed Steel, enhanced with the Bones metallics Joints: Tarnished Steel, enhanced with the Bones metallics Hands and other rubbers: Stone Grey Base sand: Yellowed Ivory Base rim: Gem Purple I'm still trying to decide the cockpit glass color. On the other Marik Militia minis I've painted (like the Black Knight above), I've just used Adamantium Black. (An aside about base rims: When I paint BattleTech minis associated with a particular fashion, I paint the rim of the base a color based on the faction. Since the Marik Militia are part of the Free Worlds League Military (except for when the League doesn't exist), the base color is purple. I have a spreadsheet of faction colors I made some time ago, before the Bones paints came out. It uses some HD paints that aren't going to be rereleased, so I'll need to revisit that.) The challenge here is to paint all four minis to tabletop, in a timely manner, and without drybrushing (except the base sand, which will be drybrushed). Let's see if I can finish this by, say, the end of July.
  21. My husband and I are about to join a campaign to play through the Curse of Strahd adventure for 5e. My husband is playing as a half-orc sorcerer and I am a human fighter. We decided to go with 03879: Gon'Tarr Orc Shaman and 14604: Joeliyn Sister of the Blade as our respective PC minis. They will be the third and fourth minis I have ever painted, the other two being from one of the Learn to Paint kits. My mini hasn't arrived yet but my husband's has so I've made a little progress on him. I cleaned him up, glued to a square base, used some green stuff to smooth out his integrated base, primed him, and put some of the base coat colors down. I've used all Reaper paints so far - their white primer along with Leather Brown for the leather bits, Harvest Brown for the wood, and a hobbled together mix of Camouflage Green, Military Green, and Warrior Flesh for the skin. I plan on doing a base coat of all the colors first to make sure we are both happy with the choices before moving onto washes and highlighting. My shipment with my mini along with some bone colored paints that I need for Gon'Tarr's skull accessories should be here tomorrow!
  22. Rahz

    Mossbeard

    Let's see if I can finish one of these for a change... Of course I neglected to take good pictures of the early steps... Mossbeard assembled, "primed" with Sepia Liner, which after a year was kinda gloopy... Thinned with a little airbrush thinner, it went on fine though and gave really good coverage and gave the figure a nice brown on top of the grey bones. The green then got an overbrush with Jungle Mist and then a wash of Vallejo green wash. The brown got a wash of Vallejo dark Grey Wash and some spots with Vallejo Rush Wash. I've since started with a over/dry-brush of Wolf Grey over the wood. Torso, head and one arm done. He's a big one! Thanks for looking.
  23. Good day, i have been painting for a little while, but recently i have tried to push myself further... this is my second mini to do for LGS painting contest (i won the first one they did) .... have about a week left to finish him. so i am planning a little more highlights and more work on the weapons.... if it wasn't for a local friend i would still be painting in blocked colors and calling it done, but he keeps pushing me to try more hah! i am open for input and criticism on him... :)
  24. Here’s my next big project, a 1984 Ral Partha dragon. This old fellow was in pieces when I received him, and painted. I’ve cleaned him up, removed the old epoxy glue, pinned him back together, and tonight realized it looks like he’s rising out of the water. He needs a bigger base, which I have (75x46mm oval). But I have never done any basing, and I’d like to create a base that extends the appearance of water. I have no idea how to do that, so any and all suggestions and illustrations are welcome!
  25. Sorry for being away from the Forum for so long. So ... how does one pronounce "peryton"? I've usually said it like "keratin" (stress on the first syllable), but I suppose it could rhyme with "enlighten" (stress on the second syllable) instead. I realized only weeks ago that I had been mispronouncing "wyvern" all my life, and the first syllable is long like "five", not short like "shiv". Anyway... I taught a class called "Fur, Feathers, and Scales" class at ReaperCon 2018. I used the Bones peryton as a demonstration, because of the big feathered wings. The first-edition Monster Manual gives the coloration of a peryton as blue-black head, black horns, green wings, and blue chest (male) or drab chest (female). I showed my students pictures of real hawks and falcons, most of which have dark tips on their wing feathers, and sometimes a series of dark stripes. Then I painted one of the peryton's wings to have stripes like that (black on green). Now I've decided to paint the whole figure, to at least a good tabletop standard. I attached it to a 50mm round base, sculpted some extra rocks, and sculpted the skeleton of a past victim (a Reaper pewter skull, plus bones made from putty). Perytons bite the hearts out of their prey, so I made the skeleton's ribcage open/broken in front. Here's how my version looked after I spent 2 hours slapping on Black Brush-on Primer and White Brush-on Primer, to establish the overall values. The primer didn't fully cover the striped green wing from my ReaperCon class. Enjoy, Derek
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