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  1. In tandem with actually posting in my own Show-off thread, I decided to post pictures of one of my most recent endeavors, A stone golem. Using the Bones mini, but going with okri's painting tutorial.
  2. I've been painting for nearly a year now, but I've never been happy with the TMM work I've done. This community has been really helpful in giving advice on some other pieces I've done, so I decided to pick out a handful of mini's with a lot metal on them, and put up a WIP. Hopefully, by the time I'm done I'll be much better. The finalists are: From left to right - 77055 - Anval Thricedamned, Evil Warrior - 77094 - Trista, the White Wolf - 77168 - Battleguard Golem - 77023 - Barnabus, Human Warrior - 77058 - Almaran the Gold, Paladin I've started prepping Almaran, hopefully I'll get some time to paint this weekend and be able to get some pictures up. References: http://mainlymedieval.com/ozpainters/viewtopic.php?t=878 http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1232-painting-metallics http://monkeyman7x.com/articles/metals-silver/ [edit 5/16/2014: added references]
  3. Starting this one too.. the wings join through the body (pics later) aren't fitting right.. it looks like the socket has some extra bonesium in the bottom corners and so the plug of the other wing+leg won't seat completely.. there also appears to be a large gap in the chest where the plug side (wing + leg) joins. This also appears to be cause either by the plug not seating properly or the bottom part of the neck or the upper thigh on the wing+leg section needing some minor reduction for fit
  4. I was asked to paint a few Reaper miniatures up to fit in with an undead Mordhiem army. As this is outside of my comfort zone I thought it would be a good idea to do a WIP so I can get some feedback on them. The three figures are Reaper's 03345 Ridley Darkedge sculpted by the incredible Julie Guthrie, 03496 Castrus Vile sculpted by the great Guy England and 0390 Ilkhand the Bloody sculpted by the wonderful Werner Klocke. I hope to included lots of photos as I paint, but unfortunately I sometimes forget. So to start I prepped Ridley tonight and boy did he need alot of work. I spent alot of time removing mold lines first with my scalpel, then with files and finally smoothing him out with some fine grade sandpaper. Then I washed him in some soap and water, after gluing him to a square base with a start of some sand I primed him gray. After I saw him primed almost as always I saw a few issues which needed corrected. So since this is a WIP I shall share all my mistakes in hopes it may help someone avoid them. Here he is all primed with a few issues which I will fix before painting. The area behind his arm I will use some liquid greenstuff and level out, after it is dry I will use a bit of brush on primer. The tiny speck of either dirt or metal flash I missed on the cloak I will simply take my scalpel and cut it off and prime as well. The sword since it is so tiny and I don't want to spend the time with liquid greenstuff I figure a bit of superglue applied carefully with a toothpick with fill in the tiny pit mark. Although since I only primed him tonight I want to let it cure until tomorrow until I mess with it as it will help keep it stronger and that way I do not risk gumming it up. I will take an after photo before I lay some paint down. To help visualize a color scheme I printed out some black and white photos of the mini from Reaper's site and applied paint to it. This helps me get a better idea for my base colors and allows me to make notes as to what colors I used to start with. Here is a quick iphone picture which does distort the colors a bit but it should give you an idea. I learned this trick from both Derek and Marike and it certainly helps me with color as I sometimes really struggle with picking colors. We settled on the colors in the second picture. The cloak with actually be a base color of P3's coal black and will hopefully have some freehand added before he is finished. That is all I have to share for now I hope to have time to paint tomorrow and will post more then.
  5. [Edited to reflect a thread split.] After seeing some of the incredible WIPs here, I wanted to try doing some of my own. So, I decided to start with something simple: Kaladrax! Over the Christmas holidays, I went over and trimmed and sanded all the mold lines from the model. Kaladrax's details are rather soft, but that was an advantage here, as I didn't have to worry much about losing any detail as I trimmed. The base was annoying to clean up. Every time I looked, there was another mold line I missed. The spine cleanup was a multi-day nightmare. Remember, always cut away from your hand. I was lucky this time, as I just poked myself only enough to draw blood. Personally, I sometimes think that a big project isn't really underway until I've anointed it with blood. Let's hope this isn't enough to rouse an ancient dracolich from aeons of slumber. That brings us to tonight: puttying and priming. When I boiled the parts to reshape them, the torso halves came apart. It was what I was planning to do, since there was a big gap between them. I've taken the opportunity to fill the gap with putty. I'm using Tamiya Epoxy Putty, since it's what I have on hand. It's designed for resin and styrene models, but should work here. I haven't used Green Stuff, but I expect it works the same as this: Trim two equal pieces from each stick, then fold them together until they're blended. Keep it wet while you're working it, to keep it from sticking to your hands. It's workable for about 1/2 hour or more before it begins to harden, and takes more than a day to fully cure. I made a long string of putty, then wrapped it around the outside of the torso seam. I then ran a bead of AC glue (super glue) around the inside, and on the inner alignment studs. I quickly jammed them together and squeezed them together with a few clamps, and set it aside until the AC set. There were a few lines and holes to fill on the model, particularly a large injection hole in the middle of the head (above, left) and a meet line or two on the base (above, right), where the Bones material cooled lightly before meeting, leaving a seam. Normally, I'd leave it as a crack in the stone, but since it overlaps a carved crack, I felt it had to go. I jammed putty into the gaps, then smoothed it over again and again with a putty knife, until the only material left was in the gaps. The head especially is too soft for this, and I had to add material back into the hold several times until I could smooth the hole over properly without leaving a depression. I'll deal with any surface roughness after it hardens. Back to the torso. I removed the clamps and trimmed the squeezed out putty away. Look! No gaps! I even sculpted a bit of rib past where it just ends on the casting, as you can see in the background two photos up. Now I just leave it to harden, which in this cold weather, may take two or more days. For the rest of the parts, I washed them and taped over the parts that will be glued together. Then I primed them with Liquitex Neutral Gray Gesso, as I expect the model to be painted in a mix of light and dark colors. This stuff shrinks as it dries and leaves a very smooth surface to paint on. (Also, you can never have enough clamps.) I had some trouble with the hydrophobic nature of Bones, and for this model at least I was seeing some serious beading. It's been rather hit and miss before, so I tried something different. Remembering an old science experiment about surface tension and water beading, I dumped a generous amount of gesso onto my mixing surface, then just barely touched the bristles of a wet mixing brush to a drop of dish soap -- the tiniest of smidgens. I then worked this thoroughly into the gesso, and painted it onto the model. Much, much less beading! I was left with a secondary problem -- more paint bubbles -- but that was as easy to solve as blowing on the gesso, and could be solved in the future by using a touch of liquid dishwasher detergent instead. It remains to be seen if this affects the primer adhesion. And that's a good place to leave off tonight, as all this dries.
  6. Well, I thought I'd add my WiP Minis thread to the list, so here goes... First one here is going to be used for Sheska, the Fighter in one of the Games I run. This here is Torchbearer, my PC in a new Campaign I joined recently. He is a Warforged Fighter with the Firecrafter Theme. Basically, I describe him as "Fire, barely contained". In the Campaign's world, Warforged are made by fusing a soul to a Construct body and are made primarily by Kenku as servants. My PC's creator made him from a Fire Elemental soul and used him to carry his torch around. My PC was not amused by this and attacked the Kenku with a Sword of Fire that came out of his arm. He took the name "Torch" after this incident and is now on the run. GF
  7. Given how helpful I found my Pathfinder Red Dragon WIP Thread, I've decided to start a new one for my next large project: Ebonwrath! Here he is assembled: And here's a base. I started with a Renedra 120mm Elipse platic base, then built it up with cork, glue, sand and bonsai stones. Here's the final assembly: I added a little more corck to support his feet, as he doesn't sit perfectly flat, and added green stuff to his joins and the base. For a colour scheme, I decided to stick with making him a panther-like black dragon, but I wanted to experiment with lighting a bit. I've settled on an obsidian theme - high contrast, gleaming skylight from above contrasted with gold and red lava flame from below. Here's a mock-up I did in Photoshop: Next step: Base coat! I'm glad I bought a spare bottle of Pure Black...
  8. I've just started painting, so I thought I'd post things I'm working on and hopefully get some hints on where to go next. First up are some Bones Goblins. My two goals for this are to develop better contrast and tweak my techniques so that painting goes more quickly. I started with a base coat of walnut brown for 3 and blacked brown for the other 3. I'd definitely do them all in walnut brown if I had it to do again. Then I put down a base coat of olive green for the skin. The metals are true silver mixed with true black or mahogany brown. Then I put on either oiled leather or ruddy leather for the leathers and made various color hats (for tracking which is which when gaming) The next steps will be to finish base coating the cloth bits and the various accessories and then blending to add shadows and highlights to the skin, leathers and hats. I'll probably had some pure metal highlights to the metal bits too, they don't stand out as well as I'd like.
  9. Howdy all, It's been about 6 years since i've posted any figures. It's time to get back in the game! Any advice or suggestions (good or bad) is always welcome.
  10. In imitation of all of the big boys I'll try starting one of these myself. Index of finished stuff: 77004 - Cave Trolls 77009 - Werewolves 77029 - Unicorn 77005 - Ogre Chieftain 77011 - Fulumbar 77048 - Mocking Beasts 77043 - Eye Beast 77032 - Oxidation Beasts 77185 - Large Earth Elemental 77168-71 - Vampire Package Golems Random stuff: Cheesegear, clockwork rat
  11. After I did the Ezren, Iconic Wizard from Pathfinder, I decided to do the Amiri (in my "I will paint one mini of each sculptor" list of what is next...). So, I opened my Pathfinder Book and started it. Information: 89005: Amiri, Iconic Barbarian by Derek Schubert in BONES. Paints so far: - Skin. Vallejo Model Color 70.815 - Basic Skintone Vallejo Model Color 70.860 - Medium Skintone Vallejo Game Color 72.099 - Cadmiun Skin - Hair. Vallejo Model Color 70.846 - Mahogany Brown Reaper´s Master Series 09137 - Blackened Brown - Cloth Vallejo Model Color 70.846 - Mahogany Brown Reaper´s Master Series 09137 - Blackened Brown (to get the Turquoise color) Vallejo Model Color 70.844 - Deep Sky Blue Vallejo Model Color 70.838 - Emerald Holy paint mess Batlips! Now that I Zoomed the face photo I see the "ecce hommo" job I did on it. Hopefully some small work and glaze make it better... I am very messy in my paintings, I go forth and back some times to correct slops and mishaps and ups strokes.. Stay tuned to next episode...
  12. The pile of minis is haunting me, despite being somewhat organized. I have a habit of starting multiple figures at once, and then hoping they are seen through to the end. Thus this thread. Larger projects will be in separate threads, but my day-to-day...who am I kidding...week-to-week work will be here. To start: Isabeau Laroche in Bones. I love this sculpt, and the Bones version retains much of the sharpness of the metal version. I worked on her for a couple hours last night, cleaning up some mold lines, putting down a layer of brown liner to pull out the detail, and starting in on her face. Here is the progress so far: I decided to not use my normal caucasian skin tone bias, instead going for a palette based on Gina Torres' and Halle Berry's lovely skin. Google and Reaper's Power Palette are awesome. Since the brown liner tinted everything a little grey-brown, I first covered her face with linen white to provide a good foundation for the skin, then lay down a midtone of blond shadow. The palette I ended up with is: Base: Blond Shadow Shade: Oiled Leather and Chestnut Brown Highlight: Tanned Skin and Fair Skin I really need to get my good camera out, but hey, these are WIP pics.
  13. Okay, so I really wanted to participate in the Painting Excuses: Paint Into A Picture Challenge contest but I just couldn't find the time to get anything done ... until today ... the day before the deadline. Well, after some dithering, I decided I'd still give it the old college try and started working on it today. Unfortunately, I'm probably not going to complete it in time to submit it to the contest since my plan has always involved major mods to my KS1 Bones version of 03547: Juliette, Female Wizard and, as I'd never actually used Green Stuff before, I didn't realize how long it takes for it to cure enough to be sanded and painted (4-5 hours, according to the instructions that came in the tube, with 24 hours to reach full hardness). In any case, since I'm waiting for things to cure up, I figure I would start this thread and post the photo's of what I've already done. First, here's the photo that the finished Juliette is to be placed into. It's kind of large, so I'm hiding it behind a spoiler tag. What I'm doing is converting Juliette into a Japanese Geisha Fan Dancer. My first step was to cut off most of her hair and then use green stuff to turn it into something more like a Geisha's hair style. Then I removed the scroll in her right hand and the scroll pouch hanging off the right side of her belt and used green stuff to smooth out the rough patches left behind. Finally, I decided to give her a high collar and change the top of her blouse from a "keyhole" to be an open, low cut neck line. Next I created two fans for her to hold. I did this by using short wire segments to serve as the ribs of the fan with a thin layer of green stuff laid over them and sculpted to suggest an open fan. So that's what I'm waiting to cure up, but I believe I have shortened the wait a little. I found some advice online noting that green stuff cures faster when in an warmer environment so one can accelerated the process by warming things up a little, even by just aiming a desk lamp at it from a close position. It also noted that some professional sculptors create a little "green stuff oven" using an old coffee can and a desk lamp. Not having a coffee can to hand, I McGyvered something together by lining an empty plastic container with aluminum foil (shiny side visible), putting the figure and the fans in there and then placing my desk lamp right above it. So hopefully things will have cured enough for painting in maybe another half an hour to an hour (I stopped "fiddling" with the various green stuff bits around 5:00 PM PST and it's 7:31 PM PST as I'm typing, so two and a half hours have already
  14. Okay! I'm starting this post to keep track of the miniatures I've painted in one place. Just ignore if you've seen them already! 1. Barrow Rat (LTPK1) Finished (11.14.2013) 2. (Actually don't have this one on this board! LOL!) 06023: Anhurian Swordsmen ??? 3. 02924: Bertok, Barbarian (LTPK4) Finished (11.18.2013) 4. P02741A: Nymph (LTPK4) Finished (11.21.2013) 5 & 6. 02811: Dain Deepaxe & 02823: Rasia, w/Spiked Chain Finished (1.29.2014) 7. 14536: Varaug, Orc Warlord (Alternate Sculpt) WIP & Finished (2.16.2014) 8. 14645: Bladesinger Sister "Phoebe" WIP & Finished (3.4.2014) 9. Jazzy's Garden of Eden WIP - Liriel Finished (3.27.2014) 10. The Picnic or Something Victorianish... WIP & Finished! (finally!) (4.12.2014) 11. Winter Miniature Exchange: Stonehaven Dwarf Rogue Partial WIP & Finished! (4.19.2014) 12. 14321: Bow Sister "Nubian Princess" WIP & Finished! (5.1.2014) - Special WIP! Building A Better Bowl - Basing tutorial 13. 03473: Khesh Blackscale, Dragonman (Sorry! I got WIP lazy ) & Finished! (5.17.14) - Redemption! (sorta): Lazy Basing WIP 14. Stonehaven Miniatures Gnome Hoplite (a.k.a.: Pocket Achilles) Finished! (5.26.14) 15. 02689 Kurff the Swift (a.k.a.: The Hero of Speiburg) FAIL! WIP & Finally Finished (11.09.14) 16. 02981 Lonnia, Female Duelist or "The Fair Spansh Lady" WIP and Finished! (6.23.2014) 17. 50180: Mega-Mutant or "The Fly" Finished! (7.14.2014) 18. Bombshell Miniatures HS38 Rocket Bike & GhNT Security Bot or "The Race" Finished! (9.7.2014) 19. 14600: Kaya the Reaper or "Year of the Giants: Part I" WIP and Finished! (10.4.2014) - Year of the Giants: Part Deaux! WIP - Year of the Giants Diorama: Mothers Finished! (12.31.2014) - ReaperCon 2015 Silver!!! Yay! 20. 02902: Slithe Queen or "Low Tide" [Fall Exchange Mini] Partial WIP & Finished! 21. Hasslefighter 2014 WIP PAUSED (11.8.14) - HFGGL4 Fist of Golgo (i.e.: Billy) - HFGGL8A Bobby Van Li (i.e.: Williams) - HFC008 Kado 22. 01325 Bailey Silverbell Finished! (11.8.2014) - Official 1st Anniversary of Painting Mini! Yay! - ReaperCon 2015 Silver!!! 23. Target Acquired: Hasslefree's HFSF 109 "Smudgester" WIP & Finished! (11.21.2014) - ReaperCon 2015 Bronze! 24. The Freaking Dungeon!!! (a.k.a.: Super Dungeon Explorer) WIP 25. Dr. Who Diorama (Present for Haden) WIP & Finished! (12.24.2014) 26. Bones Beauty Pageant: "Little Friend" (Cassie, Gnome Wizard) WIP & Finished! (2.7.2015) 27. "Never Toss A Dwarf" or 60004: Harsk, Iconic Male Dwarf Ranger WIP & Finished! (3.2.2015) 28. "She Be Queen!" Spring 2015 Exchange Finished! (4.16.2015) 29. "Speedy the Gobbo" Exercise in "speed" painting Finished! (4.20.2015) 30. Will's Dino Guy or Maj. Johan Emigholtz WIP & Finished! (6.8.2015) 31. Cowboys!: Roland Deschain or 59007: Gunslinger Finished! (4.5.2016) 32. Spaaacccceeeeee Woooollllvvvvsssssszzzz!!!!!! WIP 33. Dragons of Fall Latecoming or Marsya's Really Late I'm So Sorry It Took So Long And I Should Be Ashamed Project Finished! (4.2016) 34. Icewind Gail or Winter Witch 60149 WIP & Finished! (4.9.2016) 35. (ish) Some hood from Hasslefree.... (um, Joe!) Practically Finished (9.11.2018) Running Total: 40ish Miniatures Completed! (+ a TARDIS!) ( #10 required 2 minis; #18 required 2 minis; #24 required 2 minis + a custom TARDIS #29 required 3 minis ) (Please note that the Running Total tabulates actual painted miniatures. The numbers indicate individual projects, some of which may have not been completed.) Also, a list of my continuing struggle of photographing these guys can be found here and here.
  15. Got the itch to do some pirates! And lo'! The Vampire package came with four, so let's paint four of 'em, shall we? Nothing really special. Bones figures, primed grey, then a couple different skin tones. Girls are light, shirtless guy will be tanned, and the dwarf in betweens. Painting one on video (link at the end) but the other three are for my own enjoyment. I do paint slower than molasses, but maybe I can work on my viscosity.
  16. A cloaked zombie by Studio 2 Publishing. Taking pics when a mini is nearing completion helps in spotting problems that might otherwise be missed. In this case I've redone the right eye and touched up the one hand since these were taken.
  17. Hello everybody. While I am waiting (and waiting... and waiting) for my minis for the Here be Dragons! Diorama, I started working on my Infinity minis. Now, the idea is to get back into gaming, and also to pull back into the hobby my wife, my brother and my best friend. I started working on the minis, but then got caught up with making a nice looking table. I got inspired by the internet, but a lot by Dadcube's recent thread (here!). Scratchbuilding terrain (and stuff, in general) has always been a passion for me. I cannot match the great paintjobs out there, but I can build nice looking stuff that looks great, because it is original and one-of-a-kind :) After some weeks working on it, I thought I would share. Perhaps this can inspire some of you, and feel free to also share ideas and tips. All pics are from my cellphone and under yellow, household light. Sorry :/ Another note: I work with centimeters. If you need to do a conversion, think that an inch is about 2.5cm So 25cm = 10 inches, and 1 meter = 100 cm = 40 inches (I know this is off and only for you to get rough measures). We started thinking about a 1.2x1.2m board. This board would be made out of 16 30x30cm pieces that could be arranged in different dispositions. These will include streets, modelled in the middle of the pieces. This is a sketch I made on a little piece of paper to share with my friend over the phone: The "theme" of the board will be futuristic-clean-oriental. If you are familiar with the Infinity background, we are thinking about making this with touches of YuJing, sorta like a merge of ultra-modern Japan and touches of cultural China. We will see where this takes us... The board: Being in Argentina we don't have a lot of materials available; or at least no big stores like Michaels, or hobby stores. This means we have to use our creativity to find stuff that works! That being said, my friend works in design so he is familiar with a lot of materials and techniques. He suggested a certain foam type that is dense... upon inspection I believe this is very similar if not the same that is used in the US for insulation. It is called "Polifan" foam here, and is used to carve out letter for signs, 3D logos, etc. I got a 60x100cm board for about 10USD. The minimum thickness is 2cm. We cut the 16 squares out of this foam board. We also got some plasticard for later detailing (probably the most expensive thing yet). I also got a big plank of "grey cardboard" as it is called here; it is the kind of stuff architecture students use here for their scale models. Cardboard plus some supplies (white glue, craft paints and clear acetate sheets*) can be seen here: * the clear sheets, intended for windows and stuff, is actually a pack of "clear plastic A4 covers" that was laying around the office; they used it as a clear cover when spiral-binding reports. I don't think they will miss one pack, plus they haven't bound reports in a lot time with PDFs now). (next post with more!)
  18. Since seeing the Bones Elementals as an add-on option, I have been plotting and planning my very own magma elemental! Whooo!!! Also since I got 2 sets, I'll probably do a traditional earth elemental to satisfy our Druid's tendency to hang around in wild shape... unless I can talk the DM into allowing a magma elemental... inspiration: Anyway- prepped figure by washing with soap and water and trimming mold lines. used sanding needles for hard to reach areas. Put on a basecoat of walnut brown (see- don't you just love walnut brown!?) and started in on some simple shading with blood red and saffron sunset. I originally intended to use carnage red but grabbed the wrong bottle. Oh well. Blood red it is! I intend to really make this guy glow. Anyone who wants to play is welcome! Elemental party time!
  19. I've had a wonderfully productive basing/painting weekend. Tonight I got a start on my DHL Classics skellies, which will be used in an upcoming D&D adventure. I'd wanted to wait for more tips from Buglip's dry/wetbrushing how-to thread, but ultimately, I was just too excited to get started, and I think I know all that I need in order to get a start on my own. Drybrushing generally freaks me out. It's messy, and often used for putting finishing highlights on a mini. With my heavy hand, I'm likely to get paint all over the place using this technique for highlights, and so I've refrained from doing it very much in the past. With the skellies, though, the bone ridges practically DEMANDED drybrushing. But I don't want to drybrush a nearly finished mini if I don't have to, so my plan of attack goes like this: Drybrush bone basecoat -> wash bone shade -> drybrush bone highlight(if necessary) -> basecoat, wash then layer weapon and armor highlights (with minor drybrushing highlights on the wood grain.) Here they are, all primed up and ready to go. I wanted to paint up four sets of three different types of skeletons: Bleached, Aged, Blue, and Red. The Red Skeletons are a throwback to my childhood, playing Final Fantasy on the Nintendo. The Red ones were just a little bit tougher than the regular ones. But why Blue? I don't really know. I guess because I needed a 4th option, and that seemed the least offensive? I had to do a little bit of mixing in order to get the colors right, especially with the reds. I don't want any of these to deviate too far from the white/off-white coloration of bone, so everything got a small does of either bleached sand, or light buttermilk. I also threw my drybrushes in the picture. Artist's Loft Roma brushes from Michaels. This was my first time getting any real use out of them, and they took a beating tonight. I like using the big one a lot. The little guy is just there for precision stuff I can't reach with the other. And here's how the drybrush basecoat turned out. The Bleached(1st) and Blue(3rd) are very similar, almost indistinguishable from one another. I may go over the bleached ones with some pure white just to increase the color difference. The Aged(2nd) and Red (4th) ones also look similar in the pictures, but are fairly distinct in-hand. I plan on applying dark black, brown, blue, and red washes to four different types, which should help on that front as well.
  20. So I am working on the items i got for Christmas starting with Burbon Street Sophie Right now I am debating the color for the wings Flesh color or something else.
  21. Finally got some time to work on painting today. Since I have gotten a bit stuck on the other minis I started these.
  22. So, in anticipation of my Kickstarter Bonenami arriving SoonTM, I decided to start my own WIP thread, even though I currently only have one Bones mini to my name. I decided to get a bugbear as my practice mini, (my tiny FLGS only had about 5 Bones to choose from :/ ), just to see what I was in for and familiarize myself with filing, boiling, painting and stripping paint, etc. These first three pics are of him straight out of the package. Needs boiling, obviously: He also looks like he was the victim of a botched beheading: Lastly, the straps that are supposed to be holding his shield to his arm are, instead, only attached to his arm. While I could forgive maybe one strap in this condition, all four attachment points are currently floating and it just looks silly: (edit: I retroactively took this picture after doing some work, in case you noticed that his neck looks better now. I'll detail more in my next post) Clearly, he's gonna need some work before I even think about touching paint, so it looks like I chose a good one for learning on! Huzzah! --OneBoot :D
  23. Kala gaps.. joint plugs probably need some trimming. two legs dont actually sit on the base..
  24. So for the Dragon challenge I decided to tackle this dragon we bought back when Grenadier was still in business. Just a little over a month to go still, I think I am cutting it close.... Here is a picture of the box, I really like that paint job, so I am going to try to emulate it. And here are all the pieces: Two weeks ago, trimming flash and getting the pins ready. Husband is handling the pinning for me. Here's is a not so flattering pic of what we glued that weekend (turkey dragon):
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