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Found 88 results

  1. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/iain-lovecraft/the-frost
  2. Tor Skullcrusher, dwarven tattooed monk A Thrym Project :: A Custom Miniature developed on Hero Forge and 3D printed by a friend. Started working on character of mine who is a Dwarven Tattooed Monk. As I mentioned, I created him using Hero Forge, downloaded the .STL, and had him printed elsewhere. I enjoy using the interface on Hero Forge so far. I have designed and purchased 3 STLs and 2 minis. Once I received the print, I made a manual adjustment to his skull. An ironic happenstance, given the character's name. Tor, being a dwarf and confident in his skills against ogres was going toe-to-toe with a rather large ogre with a great club. This is not something unusual so far. The party had been exploring an ogre controlled encampment searching for an item and information for a tribe of centaurs nearby. Unfortunately, Tor suffered a critical hit from the Ogre Champion's club and took a lot of damage when he was already near unconsciousness. He effectively had his namesake applied to his own noggin. So I removed a large segment of his skull by the patch to approximate the results of his disfigurement once the party ... eventually ... managed to raise him from the dead. His demeanor and appearance was never pleasing to begin with and now it's even worse. I painted on a primer coat first so I could see where I was removing plastic better. The majority of the work was done with a rounded mini-file as well as a small gouge chisel. I cleaned up the space with a small sanding twig. For a color scheme, his pallid skin is Reaper's Fair Skin. The coat is Army Painter's D&D Vampire Garments with Army Painter D&D Mouldy Wash. I put the wash over his skin and his hand wraps as well. The coat's trim is just the Vampire Garments again. For the tans I used Reaper's Desert Sand, Desert Stone, Desert Tan, and Woodland Brown; or some combination thereof. The eye patch, the lining of the coat and the belt are Army Painter's D&D Wraith Black as well as the tattoos on his right and left forearms and the side of his head. His boots started out as Reaper's Coal Black but I need to reshake the bottle before going back to it. Yes, I know the pics and the paint wash are a little dark, but the next set of pics will be better lit. I am planning on layering his highlights up to brighter points. More work to come soon. Stay Tuned and Safe. Enjoy.
  3. 3D Printed on my Elegoo Mars. Designer Artisan Guild. Part of my Shifting Sands Project, in my World she's the Stygian Queen. WIP: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/79372-shifting-sands-glitterwolf-paints-egyptian-undead/page/19/ The Desert is a dangerous place, should one travel far enough, avoiding the Sand Worms, the Giant Scorpions and the Undead that roam there, one might find the ancient civilization of Stygia. Be afraid, very afraid, this place is not ruled by Men, be warned when you see the first signs of Snake statues and other signs of worship of Apophis! The first people you meet might look human, but on closer inspection you'll notice the strange eyes, the forked tongue and sometimes the scaled skin. When reaching the Capitol it will be too late. The Serpents and Snakepeople of Stygia will either devour you or enslave you. RUN! I give you Queen Sthenaria the Evil ruler of Stygia. ( Pictures below in the Temple of Apophis Photoboard I built)
  4. 3D Printed on my Elegoo Mars. Design from Heroes Infinite ( Raging Heroes 's 3D Section) Part of my Subterranean Realms Project. WIP HERE: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/90052-the-subterranean-realms-by-glitterwolf/page/2/#comments Exploring caverns or mining minerals is not without danger. There is life down there, some of it miniscule and harmless, some of it though.....
  5. Next week, the Lost Colony: Spaceship Graveyard Kickstarter goes live. Preview video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoWMlOpl2Vk Pre-signups at https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/saucermenstudios/lost-colony-spaceship-graveyard Lost colony: spaceship Graveyard is the ultimate starship wreckage system. It's all about customisation, fallen spacecraft and the fragments they leave behind. This modular, 3D printable terrain is the second Kickstarter from Saucermen Studios and is even bigger and more diverse than the last. As stretch goals unlock, over 210 models become available to help you build incredibly detailed and tightly packed skirmish tables or larger, sprawling battlefields. The huge core set of 80+ interlocking spaceship wreckage parts is delivered as stl files. It features incredibly detailed, double sided hull plates with internal features, computer terminals, piping, machinery, airlocks, windows, rooftops, debris sections as well as attachable ship featuressuch as boosters, engines, landing gears, weaponry and hi-tech gadgetry such as sensor arrays. Follow the project at https://www.facebook.com/saucermenstudios
  6. So I figured that I would start a thread that semi-details my adventures in learning to 3D print in resin. The printer I'm using is the Elegoo Mars Pro, which is largely the same as the base Elegoo Mars. The primary functional differences are that the build plate has a different texture, and the LCD has something called a UV matrix added to it that makes it just barely faster than the base Mars when it comes to exposure times. I don't know what a UV matrix is, I'm not exactly knowledgeable in that area, but the Mars and Mars Pro use the exact same screen for replacements so it must be something that's not part of the LCD screen itself. Other differences are that they moved the USB port to the front for easier access than the back of the base Mars, and a largely useless air filter/gasket combo that does almost nothing to actually cut down on the resin smell. Practically speaking they're so close to identical that the things I learn here should be equally applicable between both the Mars and the Mars Pro. I've had a single successful print, 1 total failure, and 1 partial failure so far. My first print was a single miniature and, as pretty much expected, it was the total failure. I bought an STL off of HeroForge, loaded it into ChituBox, gave it a slight tilt, hit the auto-support button using light supports(it's a small model, that's all it needs right?), and immediately tried to print it. The end result was that my supports failed, leaving me with a bunch of little sticks stuck to my build plate and a vaguely human shaped blob stuck on the bottom of the resin tank. It was after that failure that I went and watched a couple youtube videos about how to properly support a mini. I learned that the auto-support option absolutely sucks a donkey's nether regions because of all the things it will miss, and that the only real way to ensure a good print is to do the supports yourself, checking every little thing along the way. So after my crash course I went and did my own supports, using what I'd learned, and about 45 minutes later I went to print again. I almost immediately regretted it, as I decided to continue watching more videos about support placement once the print had actually started. What resulted from my regretful printing was a solid print, and my only completely successful print so far.. Everything is there where it should be, and yet I still wasn't happy with it. See, I still screwed up. I didn't screw up the supports by not placing enough, in fact I probably overdid it by a ton. I screwed them up by way of where I placed them. I had a couple supports going right into some of the most detailed areas on him, and supports being built off of the mini itself rather than being built from the plate up. And where I'm pretty sure that I overdid the supports I gave him a lot of little pock marks and nubs that will require a good bit of cleanup. And since a bunch of those marks are on areas that are plainly visible at all times or detailed, like the hat and his shirt, it gives the mini a bad look. Oh well. It's a learning experience. And it isn't like I'm wasting a ton of resin since it's a single, small figure. No, all I was wasting was time because with an SLA printer the print time remains the same regardless of how packed your X and Y on the build plate are. All that matters for print time is the Z. Which is why people tend to load up their build plate with as much as they can before they go printing. Each one of those little Lemmys cost me two and a half hours and about 30 cents worth of resin. I probably wasted more resin cleaning the tank after that first failed print than the first print actually used. So let's fix that, shall we? Let's load up a build plate so that when I fail again I'm blowing both time and money, though with how relatively inexpensive resin is it still isn't much money. And to change things up I went and grabbed a different model. I don't need 6 Lemmy the Dwarfs, although I have plans to pretty much print just that in a couple days. No, this time I grabbed a larger multi-part model. Since I'm currently playing the crap out of Destiny 2 I got myself a free 75mm Cayde-6(RIP, Robot Nathan Fillion) from Thingverse. It's a good sculpt, it's designed to be printed in 6 pieces total including the base, and it will let me test out some of my newly acquired knowledge of placing supports. And that's what I did. I spent probably 2 hours the other night placing supports, moving supports, double checking supports, scanning through the slices to make sure I'd gotten everything, trying to get the pieces as good as I could. It was slightly nerve wracking. But then before I headed to work today(or rather yesterday since it's past midnight here) I decided I'd let it print while I was at work. Kill two birds with one stone. I had to be gone for 12 hours, the printer had to print for 4 and a half hours, so I hit print just before I walked out the door. Sounds like a perfect deal. Boy was I wrong. It's a good thing I didn't have to actually do anything at work because I was anxious about my print. I wanted to know how it was going, and I had no way to check on it. I just had to wait until I got home. And when I got home I found this. That's a perfectly printed Cayde-6 torso and head, with horribly failed arms, legs, and cape. Apparently they just didn't stick to the build plate at all, because as you can see from their misshapen blobs, they have the thin outer edges where the bottom layer extends past the actual outline of the part to give it a bit of a raft, and then everything else is that dark area. And outside of that differentiation they're all perfectly flat. That tells me that there was just no adhesion at all. So after cleaning the tank I leveled my plate again, refilled my tank, and am currently in the process of reprinting everything. I'm writing this up just before I go to sleep, and when I wake up I'll find out how it went. Or, since it's actually been about an hour since I started it(Really? It took me that long to write this crap?) I may just go check on it now... Well, crud... That's the torso and the legs, but no arms or cape. I'm going to let it finish, though. It'll give me the chance to check out how the supports on the legs went. And if I know those supports are good, then I can turn around and make a new file of just the arms and cape. It could be that I damaged the FEP film a bit much when I pried the failed prints off. They didn't want to come off at all, and I may have accidentally put a small divot or two, and maybe a scratch, into it while trying to pry them off. But I just got paid and official replacement FEP is available for $27 on Amazon, so I'm ready to live and learn through destruction if I need to... Edit: If you guys want to see my supports just let me know and I can post screenshots. But seeing as how this is probably going to be a thread dedicated entirely to my learning process and failures, I dont know if you'll want to use them as a reference.
  7. After a certain owner of RBJ Game Company kept trash talking my simple windmill, I decided it was time for an upgrade, because every village game needs a lonely windmill to joust at. Everything is printed on an Ender 3. Here, Farmer Forscale fills in for his nobleborn cousin (Reaper 77665: Townsfolk) Next to the older Windmill, a file from Thingiverse
  8. A ranger I painted up for someone's first ever D&D character. His name is Bad Dog, he was raised by wolves. Also, first real attempt at doing some basing, added some mud to a spare base I had printed and also muddied up his boots a bit.
  9. In a previous post I mislabeled Aline the Bold also from Artisan Guild as this model so here is the actual Sony Jona. I had a happy accident with the teal cloth. I was painting in bad light (tsk tsk) and ended up mistaking silver on my palette for white. By the time I realized my mistake I was mostly done with the skirt but upon reflection (no pun intended) I thought it didn't look half bad and sort of fit the personality of the figure. The other thing I realized too late is that the base is designed so that the scroll and bottles snug up to her right foot. I realized this as I was painting the base at the end. Since she was pinned and glued in place so she remains.
  10. Hi folks and welcome to our first campaign - Dragon's Gate! We're passionate tabletop gamers and our aim is to share this passion with all of you through creating interesting and enjoyable models for all your tabletop needs We hope you like it! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/miniverse-miniatures/fantasyverse-dragons-gate
  11. I've been working on a hugely modular spaceship wreckage system. The base set has 60+ parts but the entire project includes over 150 models. Lost colony: spaceship Graveyard is the ultimate starship wreckage system. It's all about customisation, fallen spacecraft and the fragments they leave behind. You can follow the project at https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/saucermenstudios/lost-colony-spaceship-graveyard
  12. Printed this out a while ago and made a base for her with the Greenstuffworld Cobblestone Roller and a twig. The primer came out a bit chalky will try to remedy that. But for now I've basecoated her boots. Leather can be a bit rough so it's alright.
  13. Continuing my posting spree. This beholder is the fist model I have printed and painted. I went for a very simple, classic look, and I was really pleased with the bright purples. I have been enjoying MZ's catalog, but man, printing stuff is a lot of work. I really enjoy painting eyes, so this subject was a treat.The Spectator is now on my shortlist to paint thanks to the positive experience I had with the dodgeball of doom.
  14. Well I said I would try the WIP for this project so we will see how it goes... Earlier this year I completed the print of the Beta scout created by second dynasty. The print was pretty ambitious and wound up using over 2kg of filament This was the completed print Then came a really long wait for badgers 3d leveling solution and prime. It worked pretty well though I think most of the work was the leveling solution rather than the prime I decided to use the paint scheme from the starmaster from the TTA books So I started with a scarlet paint from badgers airbrush paint line But it wasn't red enough so I gave it a second coat with a ghost tint 'fresh blood And that got me where I want to be. Once its dry i can strip off the tape hiding the white lines and see how the edges did. I still have a dark blue line in the back so more air brushing tomorrow then I can start painting the interior...
  15. Just a random collection of recently painted 3D prints. All of these are from a slightly modified Creality Ender-3 A Longship from EC3D: The Wilds of Wintertide The Draken Airship, from Lovecraft Designs Oh, well! Also from Lovecraft Designs The Ferisia Mage Tower:
  16. 3D file is from Rocketpig Miniatures, I printed it on the Elegoo Mars. It's now part of my Shifting Sands Project. WIP HERE: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/79372-shifting-sands-glitterwolf-paints-egyptian-undead/page/16/#comments
  17. Another 3D print today, this time from Lost Kingdom Miniatures current (October 2020) Patreon release. The Canopic Sorcerer More info, pictures and awful puns below.
  18. RocketPig Miniatures. 3D printed on Elegoo Mars. Necromera. Part of my Children of the Night Project. WIP Here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/79298-children-of-the-night-by-glitterwolf/ It's night, it rains and it seems everybody in this forsaken town has closed their doors and windows. Even the Inn seems to be closed, why? One would think the villagers are afraid of something. You hear the sound of wings in the dark sky above you. Suddenly you hear a soft voice: All alone in the dark? How nice! You turn around and the last thing you see is the Necromera.
  19. So, I invoke the 3 foot rule on these; one could go back and forth forever attempting to edge half-timbered buildings. I have been idly working on new scenery since the pandemic, and finished two more buildings plus a well I bought a few months ago. (That’s lightning speed compared to some projects.) These are sold on Amazon by some outfit called Ender Toys. I picked up a group of four, and a second group of two, some fences and the well. If these are an example of what I could get at home, I’m not rushing out to get a printer to wrestle with. The filament lines are pretty distinct close up. However, they are light and didn’t take all that long to paint, so I think they will be fine in a game. I posted the earlier buildings plus some tree bases in this thread: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/92205-tree-group-bases/ The overall building collection now looks like this, including a Battle Masters tower: My crystal ball says there is a skirmish game in my near future...
  20. I got this one printed out in FDM from a kickstarter. In hindsight I should have chosen resin, it did help me decide to go for a resin printer myself. The printlines are visible and it's rough, I even used putty to smooth things out where I could. All in all a nice sculpt though. WIP here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/88958-beneath-the-waves-by-glitterwolf/page/5/
  21. [Not sure if it should go here or another thread, but here goes.] The model makers I'm seeing are: Albino Raven Mini and Hayland Terrain.
  22. 3D printed on my Elegoo Mars. Design by Artisan Guild. Abyss Demon this one came as a sample for presupported minis without his hands, so I printed two claws from the Death Tide Jurakin Set and upscaled those to 125% to fit the Demon. He's part of my Horde of the North Project. WIP here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/79398-horde-of-the-north-glitterwolf-paints-barbarians-and-mammoths/page/5/#comments The Horde marches South to the civilized lands, ready to plunder and pillage. Led by the mighty Mumlak all barbarians, beastmen, orcs and trolls join the Horde. The Horde grows, sometimes a group gets impatient and infighting is common, Mumlak cares not. There are enough warriors to conquer the Realm of Men. A Shaman has performed a dark ritual and summoned a demon to join their cause. Full of rage the clawed abomination enters the mortal realm, ready to kill. Amused Mumlak watches the scene, wondering if the shaman will be able to control the demon.
  23. By Velrock on Thingiverse. I used a lighter winter color scheme for the pack. I know they look all cute and fluffy but they are really vicious hunters. I did these three as part of my July 4th holiday weekend Paint Binge. I used a combination of Secret Weapon bases and base inserts.
  24. Just throwing this out there for anyone interested (yes I did back and no, I don't know them)... I did back their last KS as well and was happy with the results. They did a great in keeping people up to date and got all of the files out quickly. The figures look "funny" in the pictures due to them using the print-ready 3D files. I think that at the smaller scales especially, they are enhanced just enough so they will keep their detail and make them easier to paint IMO. Anyway take a look if you are interested! http://kck.st/322b1bO
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