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got this today at the comic shop. I was looking for a good looking Paladin NPC. I can see it now after battling a slew of evil fighters the pali looks around for something to take back to his chapter house. He spies a sword and it seems something is telling him to pick it up, what harm could it do. sure it looks evil and feels wrong but if it is used for good it should be all right, right? a sword is only a tool like a hammer right? who ever heard of an evil saw or shovel, right? hey how did this sword end up in my hand? and why am I feeling I should pick up this scary looking shield to go with my new tool. if it scares my enemies its good right? right? now lets go talk to that evil inn keeper that refused to stable our horse on the way up here. probably need to burn down his whole evil inn and everyone in it right? right? the mini is duke Gerard with a slight mod using a GW pole arm for an sentient evil sword and a GW shield for an evil sentient shield. let me know what you think about my plan to use this as a plot point please. finished thanks.
So here's a dump of plate-wearers. Isabeau you've already seen here, but she appears here again in the little "diorama" I made because reasons. I came up with a little story idea for these guys, in that the paladins all wear red cloaks/capes/what-have-you and white armor. The anti-paladin was once a member of their same order, but kept his cloak as a sort of middle finger to his old friends. It's a sore spot between them all. Almaran is a bit pale as I was using the Fair Skin paints on him and have decided I'll likely stick to Rosy Skin as the absolute "fairest" I'm going to paint someone who is not undead. He looks sickly, at least in person. Also I didn't see the mold line on his face before I was painting him so he has a kind of Two Face thing going on that he shamefully hides behind his shield. I've actually painted all 3 of the paladins before. My other Almaran is floating around here somewhere. My Duke and Isabeau though are kind of laughably bad, particularly contrasted with their newer, shinier versions, at least to me. We're our own hardest critics, right? Anyway, enjoy!
After a lot of trail, error, frustration, and procrastination I finally am happy enough with Renault to call him good and put him up on the show-off thread. This was a lot of learning trying to get the NMM on his body armor done to look passably right and the TMM on his shield/sword done. If you are interested, here's the start of his WIP in my WIP thread, be warned it gets chatty in there though. This figure is Duke Gerard (Reaper Bones SKU #77063) sculpted by Bobby Jackson, but I did convert his sword by taking the scimitar from the Iconic Pathfinder Cleric (bones version). For my purposes, he is a figure to be used at my group's Pathfinder Table and his name is Renault, Paladin of Iomedae. Without further ado: C&C are welcomed and appreciated!
Hello Fellow Fans of Blue! I love Bones, because they're cheap enough for me to use to demonstrate some fun stuff. I know a lot of newer (than me) painters have lots of questions about color, light and paint mixing, etc, so I was hoping to put a bunch of that stuff here. My goal is to walk through a monochrome blue miniature, using a Kickstarter Mini, Kickstarter paint, and some simple/intermediate techniques while doing some "teaching" on color and light. Er, not ambitious at all! I get to practice while doing it, so we're all having fun! First, the players of our little game: For this tutorial I'll be using Sapphire Blue, Pure White (take my word for it, ignore the label) and Walnut Brown, and of course, 77063 Duke Gerard. Sapphire Blue is a nice bright (saturated) blue. It's a good standard blue as well. When you look at a color wheel, I tend to think of a cobalt or ultramarine blue as "blue" but sapphire is pretty good, and it's a kickstarter color and learn to paint kit color, so most of us have it. Next, what are their painting stats? How do they behave? What can we do to them? Here they are! Simply painted as a flat swatch of color on paper. The picture is a bit dark, sorry! I'm using walnut brown as my black- see how nice a dark it is! Now, for our volunteer Male Paladin I'm going to essentially be using 3 base shades: blue, blue with some white (1:3) and blue with some brown (4:1) Here they are on the palette: walnut, walnut/blue, and blue on top and white, white/blue on the bottom. Here's an example of the Sapphire blue with a wash in the first swatch. The second is by brown/blue mix with a wash, and the third white/blue with wash. Here's where we learn a bit about saturation. The first picture is bright. Nice pretty blue. Like an autumn sky. The second is dark, moody, stormy and intense. The third a bit lighter, fluffier and softer. Each of these shades reflects light to us differently. The more pure pigment in a color, the greater the intensity. The more we dull the color, either by adding it's complement if we're mixing pure pigments or by adding white or black, the more we alter it's ability to reflect it's color back to us. I think of this like hummingbird feathers. The hummingbird's got a specialized air bubble structural pattern in it's throat feathers that literally reflect a single wavelength of light. But- only at the right angle, which is why they often look dull or black unless you catch them just right. Paint obeys the same physics. The more stuff we put it in that can potentially reflect less light, the duller the color. A possible exception/complication is white, which is nice and reflective. White is great at drawing the eye on a miniature, and great for highlighting when you want bright highlights. More on this later. One fun thing you can see when painting is how translucency can affect the way color looks. See below: Hmmn. Those look similar, don't they? The top is a thin wash of sapphire blue. The left my white/blue mix (normal paint layer) and the right my sapphire blue with a white glaze. What I take from this is that you can paint however you want, using whatever technique you want, and get the results you want! There's not one right way to do it. So things like wet blending can mimic layering/glazing or washes! Remember with washes- here I'm painting on white paper, so the surface is very uniform and the wash smooth and flat. Your miniature may have many different surfaces, primers, curves, etc. When painting on the miniature, paint will obey the laws of gravity. It will pool in crevices and drip down surfaces if allowed. Also, washes are by nature translucent, so you'll need a smooth, well-prepared surface to get the maximum effect. Ok- let play with our miniature and actually paint! I've basecoated our Paladin using just our 3 colors. Again, Sapphire blue, Blue/White mix and brown/blue mix. I tried to think about where I wanted my most intense blues, where I wanted my lighter areas, and I decided ahead of time I was going to go for a darker look to the armor. This is a nice, messy, quick "speed-painted" basecoat. No fancy stuff. I thought I had trimmed his mold lines, but I missed a few. Oh well. He's an experiment, so I'll leave it! I did wash him with dish soap and water first. The cloak and hair I'm doing in sapphire, the skin and leather/pouches/etc in white/blue and the armor in blue/brown.