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Found 2664 results

  1. Hi just wondering if all the previous bones miniatures will eventually be cast in the black bonesium or will they be kept in the original bonesium only?
  2. Since Callie is coming to a close, I have been preparing the Oxidation Beast. I have one in metal also, so I will paint both together. I had some 40mm hollow, round lipped bases that seem like a good fit. I used some styrene model train cobblestone for one, and sculpted dressed stone tiles for the other. I plan for one to use the 5th Edition Monster Manual color scheme (Bones) And the metal one to follow the Pathfinder Bestiary 1 color scheme. It has a red with black stipple color scheme.
  3. Cygnwulf

    Viridus - Autumn Monarch

    Everyone, meet Viridius. He's a hefty boi. No Ma'al or Kalladrax, but still pretty big. He doesn't even fit in my light box, as you can see. I've thought a long time about how I was going to paint him up, I don't think I'm going to go with the standard green dragon look. Instead I'm going to take my inspiration from the time of year, and make him an autumn forest dragon, whose coloration changes with the forest around him. So I'll be doing him in mostly golden yellows to oranges and reds, but keeping some greenish tones as the base of scales and other places, to kind of give a reminder of the verdent glory he was before. One thing I'm choosing to see as an opportunity is that the tops of his wings are very smooth, ideal for some freehand work. The question is, what to do? Some kind of leaf like pattern, or perhaps a butterfly like eye pattern (in the leaf colors, of course) Out of the box bag he was in pretty good shape. The usual mold line cleanup, though he has some gaps that will need to be filled. I followed up with reshaping the wings a little with some boiling water. I forgot to get a complete before picture, but below you can see the before and after for the right wing I've had to fully assemble him, I don't like the way the wing joins look without greenstuff, so that's going to be the first order of business. So painting around the wings might be a chore, but it's nothing I haven't dealt with before (Although, not in recent history) I begain the gapfill on the right side, but after sticking a finger in greenstuff twice and having to flip him back to touch up the texture, I decided to call it a night and do the left side gaps later.
  4. Hello all! @Echoside_ challenged me to do this! I attached the colors that were rolled and a pic of the dragon lined. Sorry for the short post, but it serves purposes. Cheers! -Z
  5. Here is the next figure on the list. Callie. I think it’s funny that episode 1 was Cassie, and right next to her is a figure with almost the same name. She had had a weird straight warp to the lower part of her bow. I boiled that out. It has stayed in the corrected position for a month now. This is after Brown Liner. It looks like an arrow coming out of the quiver, but strange it has no fletching....From the front, maybe a finger?
  6. Trying to paint the new Bones 4 Roc with the coloring of the American Kestrel. You can see some of my printed off sample images/notes. I was mainly taking the photos so I can recall what colors I am blocking in sections, so if I get distracted (typically), I can go back an easily pick up the colors I need. As I was taking the picture, I thought I might try my first WIP, so here it goes...
  7. Paradoxical Mouse

    Raptor

    I painted a raptor. He was a speed paint to let out some steam.
  8. Oldwolf359

    Giant Rhinoceros Beatle

    My take on the Giant Rhinoceros Beatle from KS4
  9. Zethia

    WIP 77109: Fire Dragon

    Now that my Bones 4 order is here, my backwards brain decided it's finally time to paint the fire dragon I've had in my box of shame for a year and a half! I don't think I can claim that I'm "new to painting" anymore, but this is my first dragon and by far the biggest mini I've attempted thus far. In order to actually paint more things I like instead of saving them until I've practiced or become good enough to attempt them, I'm trying to adopt the mentality of trying at least one new technique with every mini I paint. Hopefully this will get me out of my comfort zone and into some new styles and skills. The focus of this guy is going to be blending, both wet and feathering. I'm still getting used to the process of documenting my WIPs, so if anybody has suggestions or requests (pics of my working palette, color recipes, what have you) please let me know. Lots of pics beyond the spoiler!
  10. SparrowMarie

    Sparrow Paints a Temple Dragon

    I've never successfully done lava so I'm attempting it again. Hopefully this little guy will be lava-riffic. Started with a base coat of Clear Yellow, unthinned.
  11. This is what I'm working on at the moment. I had to start over a few time due to issues with the sculpt. Before I even got started I had to, well I didn't have to but I chose to, fix some of the more obvious problems with the sculpt using Apoxie Sculpt. Some of the mail had no detail at all, so I add it in, and there were some just terrible mold lines. I finally just decided to say forget it and move on with the painting. I was going for more of a grey skin, but ended up with a greener skin. I'm ok with where it's going, but on the next Orc I'll adjust the skin tone. Sorry the pics are a bit wonky.
  12. I put together a few documents related to using Bones. I've submitted these to the Craft section of the website, but as it may be a little while before Reaper has the time available to add them, Bryan suggested that I post them here. Bones - Frequently Asked Questions Bones - Preparation (mould line removal, glue, putty, etc.) Bones - The First Coat is the Difference (this document) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Painting Bones Miniatures: The First Coat is the Difference One of the revolutionary features of Bones miniatures is that you can paint them straight out of the package. Because this is such a departure from recommendations for painting metal or resin miniatures, it is understandable that this feature raises questions and concerns for painters unfamiliar with Bones. Painters familiar with other types of miniatures will find that there are some differences in how the first coat of paint behaves, or that there are painting techniques or substances that require a little tweaking to use as a first coat on Bones figures. The Bones material is a little hydrophobic, meaning that it tends to repel water. Paint diluted with water, sometimes even just a little water, may display a tendency to bead up or pull away from crevices or higher raised areas. The more water added to the paint, the greater this effect. The first coat of paint applied to the surface can also take a little longer to dry than usual. The image on the left is a Bones figure straight out of the blister, the one on the right is a primed Dark Heaven metal miniature. Each was painted with a brushstroke of Master Series Walnut Brown paint of various dilutions. From right to left: undiluted; 1:1 paint water ratio; heavily diluted. On the Bones figure, the stripes painted with diluted paint display beading and pulling away, but the stripe painted with undiluted paint covers smoothly with clean edges. Once you apply a first coat of paint, primer or other appropriate surface preparation to a Bones miniature, you can freely use paint of any dilution and the full array of painting techniques! Painters who prefer to use thinned base coats, those who like to start with a dark wash over white primer, and those who use black or custom coloured primer need not despair! The following information will help you find ways to tweak your preferred techniques to work with the Bones material. It also includes information about brands of primer, paint and other substances that are known to work or not work well with Bones, and tests of the utility and durability of certain of these products on Bones. Slightly Thicker Paint Will Not Obscure All the Sculpted Details For years painters have been reading tips and tutorials that exhort them to thin their paints so as not to obscure the detail sculpted into their figures, and to obtain a better quality paint job. While it’s definitely the case that using excessively thick paint can affect detail and paint quality, I think it is also true that some people are worrying too much about this in regards to painting Bones. Reaper Master Series and Master Series HD are produced with a consistency pretty close to ideal for base coats. Several other miniature paint lines are produced in a similar consistency, or require only a small amount of water to reach the correct consistency. Two or three layers of such paint will not clog up all the detail on your model. Also, remember that when you paint metal or resin miniatures, you normally paint over a coat of primer. One layer of undiluted paint on a Bones miniature is equivalent in thickness (if not thinner) than one or two coats of primer on a metal or resin figure. The picture above is of four Bones bases. The tiny text relief sculpted into the bottom of these is a perfect way to test whether paint coats obscure small detail. Each of these bases was given four coats of a substance, and then brushed over with a paint wash to bring out the detail. (The bottles of paint and primer used in this test were fairly fresh, no more than a year or two old.) From left to right, the bases were coated with four coats of undiluted Master Series Pure White, four coats of undiluted Master Series White Primer, and four coats of undiluted Master Series Brush-On Sealer. I prepared a second base with the Brush-On Sealer as the wash didn’t quite turn out on the first. The word ‘Miniatures’ has lost a little detail on the base coated with four undiluted coats of paint, but apart from that both it and the primer coated base still have excellent detail. The text is still mostly legible on the bases coated with Brush-On Sealer, but some detail has been obscured. Wash Bones Figures Before Painting Many people find that the paint is less likely to bead up if the figure has been washed. Also, if you’ve had your figure out of the blister for a while, or you’ve handled it to remove mould lines or otherwise prepare it, you should clean it before painting, as it probably has dust and skin oils on it that may repel paint or cause paint to chip off after it has dried. All you need to clean it is some dishwashing liquid and an old toothbrush. Give it a scrub, and then rinse it really well to get off all the soap. Let it dry before painting. (You can hurry up the drying with a hairdryer set on low.) Black Primer? Custom Colours? Paint One Coat of Paint over the Entire Figure First! Some painters prefer to paint over black or gray primer. Others start with a primer of a particular colour to speed up painting units. For example, you could paint a coat of khaki on a unit of modern army figures and be half way finished painting their uniforms. One way to get the same effect as a dark wash over white primer on Bones is to first apply an all-over coat of white paint, followed by a dark wash. (Keep reading for other ways to do washes directly on Bones.) Some Primers Work on Bones Traditional metal or resin miniatures need to be primed before any paint is applied. Paint applied over bare metal does not adhere well, and rubs off with even light handling. Primer etches into the metal on a microscopic level. Paint adheres well to primer, so using it forms a stronger bond. Bones figures do not suffer from this issue! Acrylic paint painted directly onto the Bones surface is as durable, if not more durable, than if you use paint over primer on Bones. If you still prefer to use primer, Reaper’s Brush-On Primer works well on Bones, and is available in black and white. Another product people sometimes ask about is gesso. Fine arts painters use gesso to prepare canvases for painting. Some people have experimented with liquid gesso as a primer for miniatures, Bones and otherwise. People have reported it working in terms of creating a surface that you can paint thinned paint over. Reports vary as to how durable the material is, so it may not be the best choice for miniatures that are going to be handled. For those who prefer to use spray primer, the best option is to use an airbrush to apply a coat of acrylic paint to the Bones figure. Reaper Master Series paint thins well with Golden or Liquitex Airbrush Medium, and maintains its strong adhesion, though I have found that adding airbrush medium does noticeably increase the drying time of the paint. Aerosol spray primers and some spray paints can have some issues with Bones (and with other plastics). The chemicals in some of these primers and paints do not react well with Bones. The main effect seems to be that the primer never completely cures, remaining tacky to the touch. Some will also fail to form a bond with the Bones material. The following is a list of aerosol paints and primers that people on the Reaper forums have reported testing on Bones. Please consider the list just a guide. The best idea is to test your chosen spray by using it on a small Bones figure you don’t care about a lot. After you give the spray time to cure, carefully look over the figure to make sure the chemicals in the spray haven’t reacted with the Bones material to melt or otherwise damage it. If not, test the primer surface by touching it to see if it stays too tacky to paint over. Also, flex parts of the figure to make sure the primer doesn’t crack. Note: Some people have successfully used Krylon primer, and possibly other spray primers that some people have reported as problematic. And other people have reported problems with primers that some felt worked well. One difference seems to be that a light spray rather than a heavy coating is more likely to minimize tackiness. Environmental factors such as temperature and humidity are also always a big variable with any spray product. Recommended aerosol spray primers and paints: Army Painter white and coloured primers Krylon Dual Paint + Primer Duplicolor Sandable – slight tackiness possible Rust-oleam Painter’s Touch Ultra Cover 2x – slight tackiness possible Problem aerosol spray primers and paints: Krylon white primer – doesn’t bond, stays tacky Testors Enamel flat black – stays tacky Walmart Valu flat white – stays tacky Krylon Primer red-brown – stays tacky Citadel spray Use a Medium to Thin Your Paint or Make a Wash Water is the element in thinned paint that causes it to bead up on the Bones surface. If you try thinning your paint with a dilutant other than water, you may be able to create a mix that is closer to the consistency you like to paint with. Depending on what you use, you can even create something translucent enough to act as a wash or glaze directly on the Bones. Mediums designed to work with acrylic paints are good products to try. Examples are matte medium, glazing medium, airbrush medium. Reaper’s Brush-On Sealer can be used this way. Note that many of these products are a little less fluid than water, so they may not dramatically change the consistency of the paint (it’ll still feel a little thick rather than watery, but it will look a lot more transparent). You can also test adding just a drop or so of water to your mix of paint and medium to see if you can get closer to the consistency you prefer. I diluted some Master Series Bone Shadow with various mediums to make washes. From left to right, the products are listed below. Master Series Brush-On Sealer: I added one drop of water to a large drop of paint and several drops of Sealer. Worked well. Liquitex Matte Medium: A thick product. I added a drop of water. Beads up too much to work well for a wash. Liquitex Glazing Medium: Another thick product, I added a drop of water to my mix. Took longer to dry than the others. Did not sit in crevices well enough to work well for a wash. Very shiny finish. Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium: Applied well, dried quickly. Even application of the colour. Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer: Worked decently, seems a bit more inclined to pool in the crevices with less colouring on the surfaces. Shiny finish. ADDEDUM (not pictured) Golden Acrylic Flow Release (undiluted): Applied well. Took a little while to dry. Shiny finish. Reaper Flow Improver: Applied well. Took a little while to dry. Finish is shiny in areas where wash pooled. Use a Medium as a Primer Because of how well acrylic based products adhere to the Bones material, it is also possible to use mediums as a primer alternative. Once dry, you can paint over them using thinned paint. These are applied by brush, or possibly with an airbrush. I tested a number of different brush-on products on some Bones Cave Trolls. These were straight out of the package and had not been cleaned. After the products dried, I applied a thin coat of paint to see how it behaved over each product. Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer: Exhibited slight pulling away from some high or curved surfaces, though generally it just required running the brush over that section again to establish coverage. Dried quickly. Reaper Master Series Brush-On Sealer: No significant beading. Dried quickly. Paint was less durable than with the other products, see the durability testing section for more details and pictures. Golden Airbrush Medium: Bubbled a bit when applied, thin enough to pool a bit in depressions. Took more than 40 minutes to dry. This product works well if you use a drop or three to thin paint down for a base coat, although it does increase the drying time slightly. Due to it drying time, this is not the best choice as a primer alternative or for thinning washes that will be applied directly over Bones. Liquitex Matte Medium: Somewhat thick. Minor beading and pulling away. Significant beading when thinned with water. Dried quickly. When paint was applied, there were still some mild occurrences of paint pulling away from higher/curved areas. Liquitex Glazing Medium: Pretty thick consistency. Dried fairly quickly. The paint coat still beaded a little. Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium: Dried fairly quickly. Paint went on quite nicely. Also works on metal miniatures. Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer: Dried quickly. The paint layer exhibited slightly pulling way. Folk Art Blending Gel: Extremely thick. Beaded up too much to use. Not pictured as it worked too poorly to continue to the testing stage. Speed Paint Drying with a Hairdryer Whether on a Bones or metal miniature, if you find that your paint is taking too long to dry, you can speed up the drying by using a hairdryer on the low setting on the paint. If the paint you’re drying is a wash, you should let it dry naturally for a little bit, or you risk blowing the paint out of the crevices and depressions you want to darken. Testing the First Coats for Durability Once you get your paint applied, you want to make sure that it stays there. In my experiments, the most durable Bones miniatures are those where the first coat applied to the miniature is undiluted Master Series paint. Several of the other substances I tested were pretty close in durability, but it should be noted that there were a few that performed poorly. I painted these ghosts in August 2012. They accompanied me to Gen Con and Pax Prime 2012, stored loose with some unpainted Bones in a plastic container I carried in my backpack. Their travels included a six hour car ride and return plane trip. At the conventions they were handled extensively by dozens upon dozens of people, including being tossed on tables. The paint jobs were stressed pretty much equally through the Gen Con trials. The ghost painted only with Reaper Master Series paint was handled a lot more than the others during the Pax Prime trials. The ghost sculpt has some thin and thus particularly bendy areas, most notably on the hood and where it meets the tombstone. I flexed these parts by hand repeatedly to additionally stress the paint. Unfortunately I chose poor colours to easily be able to see all the damage in the photos. After the first coat I used painting techniques of thinned layers and washes with no difficulty and with the same effect on each of the miniatures. From left to right the first coat on each miniature was as follows. Undiluted Reaper Master Series Paint: Displayed the least damage during the Gen Con trials. Following Pax, has some chips at the flex point on the hood and near the tombstone. Was handled a lot more than the other figures. Reaper Master Series Brush-On White Primer: A few very small chips at the flex points, and some paint has scraped off a few sharp protruding areas. (Edge of the hood, finger tips on one hand.) Dupli-Color Sandable White Primer Spray: The unpainted base stayed slightly tacky to the touch for weeks after priming. The figure has several small areas where paint was scraped off, but only one chip on a flex point. Testors Dullcote Spray: This product created a good surface for painting, but performed very poorly in the paint durability tests, and I would not recommend using it as a primer substitute if you plan to use your Bones for gaming. Chips formed on the major flex points early in the Gen Con testing, and the paint has flaked off extensively from there. The figure also has some small areas of scraping damage, but those are no more notable than on the Brush-On Primer or Dupli-Color figures. I wanted to perform a similar test with the other surface preparation products I tried. First I painted on an additional coat or two of paint. Then I placed the figures loose in a plastic box with some other Bones, a wooden, MDF and plastic base, and a metal figure. After wrapping the box in a towel secured with rubber bands, I put it in my dryer on the air setting for 10 minutes or so. The green painted areas on each figure are those that were painted over the primer alternatives. The brown painted areas are Master Series Paint directly on the Bones surface. (These were part of tests for methods to remove mould lines.) The brown areas on each exhibit very little damage. Some have none, some have a few small chips or scrapes. (However it should be noted the brown area of this sculpt has far fewer surface protrusions than where the green was painted.) From left to right: Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer White; Reaper Master Series Brush-On Sealer; Golden Airbrush Medium; Liquitex Matte Medium. Three of the four show pretty similar levels of damage. The figure painted with Brush-On Sealer as a primer displays the most paint damage of all figures tested in this series. From left to right: Liquitex Glazing Medium; Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium; Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer. Damage levels are pretty similar to the better performers above. The Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium and Liquitex Glazing Medium performed the best of the seven products tested. (The Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium performed better in terms of acting as a primer, and is inexpensive, so would be my recommendation between those two.)
  13. EvilJames

    Black warg

    So this is an experiment in multiple ways. First, when I painted this guy up. I wanted to try and paint a black wolf for something different. I wasn't sure how to make the fur stand out, so this is the first time I've used reference photos. Also for the longest time I've been having trouble getting photos to turn out. They look fine on the phone but awful on my laptop when I try to edit them. Turns out, when you upload things to a potato, they look like potato. So I'm seeing if I can make it work with just my phone. Anyway here we go.
  14. This past week I painted Bufo, the Frogman (or maybe he's supposed to be a Toadman) figure from the Bones 4 Dreadmere Expansion. I decided I'd paint him like a frog, and since most all of my frog figures are already painted like colorful tree frogs and poison dart frogs, I thought I'd continue that pattern and paint Bufo like a Red Eyed Monkey Tree Frog. I love how full of character this figure is, and had been looking forward to painting him since the Kickstrater ran. Painted for tabletop use.
  15. Prex

    Demon from Bones 4

    I take so long to pain a figure that I decided to try and challenge myself to fully complete a figure, including basing, to tabletop standard in a single day. This was the result. I will likely go back and darken the wing membranes a bit but overall I'm pretty happy with the overall effect. It was also my first try at a lava base.
  16. boldfont

    Djinn bones 4

    Speed paint! I’m happy with it though. There’s a lot to paint from the Kickstarter.
  17. I created a little Graveyard. The Crypt and the Raven are resin models from Minimonsters, the Skeleton rising from the grave is 02043 from Reaper. The Tombstones and Fence are from the Reaper Bones III Graveyard Set. The pathway was made with Milliput and I used the Greenstuffworld Cobblestone Rollerpin on it. Enjoy! Likes, comments and job offerings to lead Undead Hordes welcome! WIP Here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/79298-children-of-the-grave-by-glitterwolf/&page=6
  18. This thread is shamelessly ripping off a wonderful idea from our goblin friend @buglips*the*goblin from this thread way back around Bones KS1 days. The intent of this thread is to have lots of people post WIP shots of their Bones Sophie paint jobs. Here are the minis to pick from (SKUs to be updated here soon): From Left to Right: KS2 Trollslayer Sophie 77370, KS3 Sophie the Sage 77491, KS4 Innkeeper Sophie, KS4 Small World Sophie, Sir Forscale (Note that Sir Forscale is just that, for scale. He is not part of this for WIP purposes.) There is no time limit or set starting date. If you come across this thread long after I have posted it and want to join, feel free. Quick ground rules: 1. Only Bones Sophie is allowed. There are four of them (unless I somehow missed one). 2. Try to limit yourself to a few posts a day, though. No reason to flood this thread too much. (Unless this doesn't pick up interest and it is just me, lol). 3. Watch the side conversations. Ideally this is primarily WIP pics and some direct conversation to help encourage or guide the painters. 4. If this picks up lots of interest, we will use one Show Off thread as to not overwhelm that thread too badly. 5. Play nice. This is meant to encourage people to paint. I am hoping we get painters of all levels of ability. Encourage people to join in. The more the merrier. Feel free to PM me with questions or concerns. I will try to update this thread with any clarifications or whatnot. Alright, now let's get this party started!
  19. This Bones figure was the demonstration model in my 2-hour "Good Fast Painting" class at ReaperCon 2017. I got her about 2/3 done in the class. She stood half-painted on my shelf for a year and a half. This past Sunday, I just needed to paint something, and this was it. An hour later, I was ready to call her done. As always, I spent a lot more time per square millimeter on the face & eyes. Enjoy! Derek
  20. imars

    Svetlana and Boerogg Blackrime

    For a recent game I was able to finish these two pieces, Svetlana, Frost Giant Princess and Boerogg Blackrime, Frost Giant Jarl. I was going for a whiter skin on the giants. I tried it on Boerogg, but it did not work out like I wanted so I left Svetlana the way she was. If you want to see their in between stages, check out my blog.
  21. Hey all, been a while. Quick job from Bones 4. Added a saddle, threw on a Mantic Soul Reaver cavalry rider with a head swap from Puppetswar.
  22. Next up, a thundering of Giants from Reaper Miniatures Bones 4. I went for 3 different skin tones this time.
  23. Citrine

    Citrine paints Aviriel as a Drow

    I had used a bunch of leftover paint for the Reaper bones version of Aviriel Tellerion (77070), and those colors where more in the "evil spectrum" so I switched her over to being a dark elf. Very happy with how her face turned out, sadly she is looking down so you cannot really see it on the table. It has been a while since I posted, I have had a slump in my desire to paint this spring and I tend to wait until I have a bunch to show off to get the light box out. Avirion here was painted in March.
  24. So this is the bones version of Thain Grimthorn the Dwarf Cleric (77213). I was stuck on painting him for a long time, I had started with a normal skin tone, but it just didn't click for me. Then I had the epiphany that since it was unlikely that someone would pick him as a PC was very low, so I should paint him as an evil dwarf instead. I am much happier with him now. Here I present Thain the evil dwarf:
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