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Found 6 results

  1. My second project for Fealron marked off a few firsts: First magnetization, first mounted cavalry, first Pugh sculpt. Here you can see the 2mm magnets inserted strategically. This is how he sits mounted. But, I wanted to keep it removable, thus the magnets. I confirmed it would stay in place upside-down! A sharpened paper clip acting as the scaffold for the horn. I also sharpened the lance tip. It comes cylindrical out of the blister. Green putty to make the horn and cover/reinforce the magnets.
  2. The Faceless is a neat game with some really interesting miniatures. The player token is a compass, and all of the miniatures have magnets in them to manipulate what direction the compass points. When the players move, they have to follow the compass direction. It is a really neat game, and most of the minis are little double sided dioramas (they have one side that’s a poor child about to be abducted by a monster, and the other side is the creepy little chimera that he turns them into). Anyway, here are the minis I painted:
  3. Hi everyone, it's been some time. I recently completed the individual base for the Fox Critters I painted lately. I stuck a magnet under each model and in each base socket. This way, each model and base are interchangeable. I will now build a large diorama base on which there will also be magnet encrusted socket to hold and display all the models together. As suggested by @Boaz , I used flat magnetic tape, it was easy to cut to the shape and size I needed. I used Reaper's 40mm round base and filled them with green stuff that I carved like grass. I then added natural stones and painted birch tr
  4. I finished painting my cemetery fences from the reaper 3 kickstarter. I painted them up generally following the same approach as my dwarven forge dungeon tiles. Here's how I painted them: - I primed the pieces with krylon black camo primer - I then painted on a heavy drybrush of Pokorny Base Grey on all the stone parts - I then picked out some of hte stones with Pokorny Earth Stone - I then did a light drybrush with Pokorny Olive Dry Brush - I then mixed together Pokorny Base Grey and Pokorny Stone Edge Dry Brush and did a very light dry brush - Now I worked on t
  5. I wanted to use the cemetery fencing as terrain in wargames, and I wanted to be able to configure the fences any way I wanted, so I decided to try using magnets to hold the fencing together. I first had to decide on how to approach the problem. The straight sections were pretty simple... I could just drill into the ends and install magnets, with the polarity opposite on each end so they can be chained together. For the short sections with a flat on only one end I decided to do do half with one polarity and half with the other, so I would always have an option as to which to use. But for the co
  6. Next time you are opening up a can of food, or when buying canned goods, measure the lid, There is a good chance it will be 3" or 4" across. To get that lid ready to be a base for a big miniature, you'll probably just need a hand held can opener. Then wash the can lid and file down any left over burs of metal if there are any, You'll have a nice durable metal base for your big minis. Magnet ready too in case you want to be able to swap bases for various rulesets. This does not generally work with pull ring type cans, so you might have to change your brands if you get
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