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Found 971 results

  1. Bonnie Bailey

    Trick or Treat Witch

    Good Evening! SO after sorting through my minis and cleaning up my workstation post reaper con, I felt inspired to tackle some techniques that I have been avoiding. I wanted to pick a mini that i felt I could paint quickly (but lessbehonest, I don't paint quickly at all) and that would be a good candidate for two techniques that I am trying to learn. after a long drawn out process of hemming and hawing I found a miniature that I received an unmentionable number of years ago from reaper as a prize for buying miniatures during October. So it is Krissy the modern witch with out her familiar. I have an idea of what I want to do, I want to keep the miniature a tight focus on OSL and Transparent fabric. If I am feeling like it after I have completed the mini, I may do a special base for her. I feel pretty good about my understanding of color, but I think this is going to be a pretty good challenge. Here's what I have so far.
  2. First time posting to the Forum. Feedback welcome! Thanks.
  3. With my Cadian army nearly finished and my wife's army at a playable state I decided to take a break from 40k painting. Since I've been painting for our actual armies for so long I decided to start a new WIP thread rather than use my old random projects thread (the "Too Many Projects" thread will be replaced by this one). But before getting too far ahead I'd like to show everyone just how bad my box got while painting for 40k and killteam. This of course doesn't include any GW boxes I may or may not have on hand to paint "just for fun". I swear I'll paint those Skaven sooner or later. Though some of the figures were closer to completion, I simply couldn't resist painting one I've had my eye on for months (I mean this quite literally as the figure sat on my lamp's base since I first got it and probably ended up in the background of many of my progress shots). When I first pulled this from a box of goodwill I knew exactly what I wanted to do. This figure just screamed Don Quixote, at least to me it did. So that's exactly how I painted it and though it may just be a simple paint job I'm already thinking about creating a new character just to use it.
  4. I got this mini in the Mini Painting 101 class at ReaperCon. This was our first ReaperCon - my wife and I took the class together. I’d painted about a dozen minis (badly) for D&D before going to RC. I like this sculpt, and I wanted to work on improving my basic painting skills. I decided to keep working on her to see how far I can go. I’ve spent an embarrassingly large amount of time on her already. I do feel like I’m learning a lot though and getting better at controlling my brush and getting paint consistency right. I broke out one of the good brushes I had bought and not touched - a da Vinci Maestro. I still feel unworthy to use it but maybe it will help me get better. I’ve done a lot of work on the red armor already, but still need to do some more highlighting. I think I might have overdone the highlights on the green ropes in some places. I was planning to glaze them down and redo a bit smaller. Thanks for taking a look. I would greatly appreciate any feedback or tips on what I can improve on the parts I’ve worked on already. Here she is so far - she looks a lot better if you squint.
  5. Since I don't have enough projects on the go, I decided to start another one. When the Bones III Kickstarter came around I really liked the Blackstar Corsairs, so much I ordered two sets. When the giant box o' Bones arrived I was surprised to see them on their sprues still and in pieces. Not a problem, it just meant I couldn't play with them, err, inspect them when I was sorting my figs. So they all went in a Ziploc. Today while pondering which project to work on I noticed them (they were hiding behind another project I have't even started a WIP on yet....). And tonight while pondering how the Olympics ruin TV for everyone, even when it is night where the Olympics are being held, I decided to go take a look at them. I found it interesting that all 5 come with the same "accessory" sprue, which contains a bayonet, a belt of grenades?, the visor, a sheathed knife and a gun with right hand. But 80076 and 80080 come with the same gun on their parts sprue as well. So you end up with a couple extra guns. Each guy comes in 4 parts btw, lower torso, upper torso and each arm. My plan is to do the first 5 as designed, then do some mods on the other 5. May need to look for some weapons to swap. At this point these guys are just clipped and friction fitted. I'll get them cleaned up and glued together sometime soon. The middle 3 will likely need the right arm and weapon left off until after painting the body. Not sure if I'll use all of the accessories on all of them or not. I'm very happy with these guys, glad I got 2 sets. They will likely play a role in my Savage Rifts campaign at some point. And maybe the IMEF have a new enemy to battle....
  6. aku-chan

    44047:- Deep Gnome Heroes

    Presenting a pair of Deep Gnome heroes (I'm calling them Harold and Alice) from Reaper. I got these to see what the Bones Black material was like on smaller minis (I was quite impressed), and while some parts could've gone better (One day I'll learn how to highlight dark blue) they were a lot of fun to paint up. As always, any comments or criticisms are warmly received.
  7. Since I like painting when it is dark outside I normally don't take photos, to combat this and get into the habit I am starting this thread. I will post some of my recent work, including things that are 95% done and are only missing a base. Some of the photos may not be the best, but they should suffice. Any advice and criticism is welcome. So let us get started: An old Pandora Metal starter set from Malifaux (and some Victoria Miniatures): The skin for the baby was done using Mars Violet (PR101), Nickel Titanate Yellow (PY53) and Titanium White (PW6). I may have also used Titanium Buff (PW6:1) The litle girl is sculpted with a basket full of candy, but since she is holding some scissors I decided to make it arts and crafts materials and a mirror. I went for a Black, Red and White colour scheme do to the spade on her shirt which reminded me of cards. The black is painted using Titanium White and Perylene Black (PBk31, which is green-ish in glazes and when tinted with white), I also decided against priming the figure and used the metalic to my advantage by glazing the Perylene over it. The redish colour is created by mixing some Quinacridone Magenta(PR122) with Red Iron Oxide(PR101). The mirror was done with Prussian Blue (PB27, I just love how it behaves. Only one of the manufacterurs, Matise, that I can get locally sells it in acrylics due to the the pigment chemicaly reacting with the acrylic binders), and Titanium White. The white cloth was done using Titanium White, Nickel Titanate Yellow and some Burnt Umber (PBr7). Skin and wood is a mixture of Red Iron Oxide, Burnt Umber, Nickel Titanate Yellow and Titanium White/Buff. Vampire sending little girl to collect blood with those scissors: As you can see she is tiny. Some Reaper Bones, mostly from Bones 4: Comments on them: - The monk and scribe were fun to paint. - The death statue was so nice I decided to make it a summon instead, with otherworldy energy showing throught the cracks. - The old lady with a cane had her dress done by glazzing colours (ohh look I could make it behaved similar to contrast paints for a litteral fraction of the cost. AU$10 for 60mL of paint + AU$20 for 237mL of glaze medium + some dish soap/flow improver, wonder how many cidatel pots I can make with that especially with the contrast costing about $AU12 per 30mL pot) - The pillar has some meted bodies flondering in pain, fun to paint. - The Red/Black lady is some Pyrole Red (PR254) + Cerulean Blue(PB35) , and Perylene Black + Titanium White, the skin is made of Mars Violet and Titanium White. Similar to the vampire lord with little girl. - Fish lady has a pipe in her hat. Some minor conversion My dreadmare herbalist arrived without the cylinder, I personally didn't really like that design choice so I decided not to ask for a replacement. Instead I was going to do some "magic". First the gap was filled with some green stuff. This involved resculpting some of the satchel on her frock, the sides of her frock, some skirt and the bag strap. = Then I painted the dress and blocked in some of the colours. Dress: Ultramarien Blue (PB29) + Titanium White Frock and shoes: Raw Umber(PBr7), Titanium White and Yellow Ochre(PY43) Bag, hedgehogs and hair: Raw Umber . After a working on and of on her she is mostly finished: The bag recieved a glaze of Quinacridone Violet (PV19) after it was highlighted with Titanium White + Yellow Ochre +Raw Umber. Greens are Ultramarine Blue mixed with different yellows, the minty green is made by Ultramarine Blue and Nickel Titanate Yellow. Red is some Red Iron Oxide and Cadmium Red Medium (PR108). You may be able to see the eyes and nose of the hedgehogs. Perylene Black was used for the metalics. I tried to give her some freckles, they look good from the front but I am not sure if I am to happy with one of the side looks. The flower was Nickle Titanate Yellow + Titanium White glazed with Indian Yellow (PY139). Practice With FreeHand I did some freehand practice on the Bones 4 milkmaid: This was achieved by first drawing a square with some diluted Perylene Black and then convering everthing inside and oustide it with thin layers of titanium white. The forest was first drawn by just when blending some Prussian Blue, Titanium white and a yellow. The Perylene Black may also have been used. The mountain was draw with some Prussian Blue and white, this was grayed with some orangy colour which I can't remember. A lighters glaze was used on the sky. Luckily this blended with the snow covered top of the mountain so I outlined the mountain with the same orange I used to gray the prussian. Then I glazed some Indian Yellow up from the mountain. This created an effect that I really enjoyed (didn't really make vissible green due to the sky being a greyed blue). The top of the dress looked a little empry so I painted a titanium white cloud that had a shadow of the deep grayed prussain at the top and a reflection of the orange at the bottom. The freehand is the centre piece so I did not want to detract from it with the rest of the paint job. To do this I made the dress a desaturated green, but found it to be to empty by itself. To make it pop a little more I drew a patern on it by mixing the dress colour with a lot of Titanium White and then diluting that with some flow improve and lots of water. Then I sketched the lines with the highly translucent mixture. To further highlighty the stripes which were lost in the folds of the dress (bad locaiton choice on the vertical stripes) I decided to make a higher Titanium White mixture that had less water and dot that in each line intercept. Now the model is drying (mostly finished) and if the weather permits I will have some nice pictures "Soon". Eureka Minatures Such characterful miniatures they produce, I will probably spurge for some more on my birthday. 1st Picture: Some duelists. One of them is so secure in his victory he is holding his folded cloak in one hand, or is he hidding something there? 2nd Picutre: An older lady feeding some chickens, currently missing chickens. 3rd Picture: has some muscians, I did not take a close up of all of them. They each have their own chairs and sheet music. There are 4 dogs, 2 of them are holding buckets with something in them. 2 chickens, a rooster and 2 chicks 4th-6th Pictures: musician closeups. 7th Picture: That lady behind the cow did something so scandalous that the lady further back started chocking, requiring her friend to help. Otherways is just 2 milkmaids, one milking a cow and there is a really curious auroch bull looking at the bucket. 8th Picture: I am not sure if blowing a seashell horn into the ear of a person is a bright idea, especially if they are dressed like that and holding a scepter staff while you only have a loincloth. The scepter is quiet heavy and a nice weapon, just a warning. Churning some Butter One of the Eureka Miniatures is this boy, he is not that small but still recognisable as a child (goes up to around the shoulder of adult miniatures, so if we take into acount the base of the vampire lord he is only up to underneath his arm.) The chemise is painted using some glazes of Transparent Red Oxide (PR101) and Burnt Umber over a base coat of Titanium White and Yellow Ochre. Everything but the close and hair has a basecoat of Burnt Umber. The shirt is some greyed out (I think I used Transparent Red Oxide in this case) Ultramarine Blue and Titanium White. The trouses are Nickle Titanate Yellow, Ultramarine Blue and some Titanium White (they may have been greyed out a little with Transparen Red Oxide). The trim of his trouses is Mars Violet with some Titanium White. Grumpydot Now this old lady is telling us to get off her lawn, so I brightened up her day by splattering her pinkish dress with some dots. The pink was made out of Cadmium Red Medium and Titanium White. This mixture was further lightened out with Titanium White to make the dots (lots of water with flow aid used to make them nice an easy to paint). The lady was still grumpy so maybe she did not like those dots? Too late for her then since htey are staying, instead lets give her some stripes. Her under-dress was painted a dark green (forgot the mixture, it may have involved some Ivory Black (PBk9) and Green Gold(PY129)) and the stripes were painted using some Nickle Titanate Yellow, Titanium White and the green mixture. To make them stand out more the shadows were glazed with some Perylene Black (I think it was that). Some Burnt Umber, Yellow Ochre, Nickle Titanate Yellow and Titanium White were used to paint the wood,shoes and headscarf. Her hair was painted using Perylene/Ivory Black and Titanium White. Reaper Speakers Now this is not the best pictures, the hair looks washed out (it has far deeper shadows than what is seen here). The hair for left and middle is Raw Umber, Yellow Ochre and Titanium white mixtures. The metalics were some Vallejo Liquid Metal "writing rubbed out" Gold. Either old gold or red gold, but sadly my bottle has the name of the colour rubbed out. The right lady, had her dress painted by first making a grisalis of Titanium White and Ivory Black, this was then glazed with Pthalo Blue (PB15:3). Her yellow decoration where painted using Nickle Titanate Yellow and Titanium White glazed with Indian Yellow. Inner Dress was a mmixture of Prussian Blue and either some Nickle Titanate Yellow or Titanium Buff. Hair were washes/glazes of Transparent Red Oxide, Indian Yellow and Burnt Umber. The book has some squigles that you can see in real life, but didn't come out in the picture. The middle lady has a dress of Hanza Yellow Light (PY3) and Pthalo Green (PG 7) which I think is the blue shade. I can't remember her inner dress. The leftmost lady is painted using OILS, it took her a while to dry, but I just love how using Prussian Blue and then wiping the top came out for her dress. The inner dress is painted with Green Gold. Her scepter handle is some Quinacridone Magenta and white. Some of my slowly "Speed" painted Handgunners I spent about 10-20 minutes on the skin of each figure and then left them bare. Over the course of the last month when I finished doing some painting and had some colour left I would take one of the figure and start blocking in a section of their attire, all sections, but the skin, are highlighted with Colour used+ Titanium White. Overall I would Say that each figure took me about 30-60 minutes of paint time. There are still 2 models left (double of each sculpt). 1:72 scale Freehand This guy is about the same hight as the butter churning boy, except he is a lot thinner (somewhat realistic proportions), I allready finished painting him. Sadly I don't have a photo of him right now, so the onnly thing I can show you is that I painted stripes on his throuses. The throuses and cape are Cerulean Blue and Titaniym White, The stripes are heavily diluted Perylene Black.
  8. HonorableLordKentaur

    Warlord Bones?

    just wishing to put this out there, but what are the chances of warlord coming back, hopefully with the success of bones reaper can really hammer our full fledged army boxes. i only ask this as warlord was my very FIRST miniatures game and heck it was the first miniatures i ever bought and wish to see it again even if its just bones army sets or something. maybe even a third edition possibly. i mean am i alone in wanting warlord back?
  9. Jellyranger69

    New Here!

    Heya guys! I’m relatively new to the hobby and I’ve only recently discovered Reaper minis. This is my new favorite company, great pieces that even a broke dude like me can afford. I suffer from partial blindness so extreme details can be a challenge....but it’s just for fun so whatevs. I plan on spending my remaining years of vision painting as many pieces as I can. I’ve seen some really incredible work from you guys! Thanks and feel free to hit me up. I’m always down to chat about minis and always open to critique. I’m here to learn. - Jelly This is my first completed Reaper product: Athak, Undead Knight!
  10. Monoksbones

    Avatar of Rage 77586

    Saw this figure in my LGS a while back, decided to buy it, and now I'm using it as my new DnD character. He was quite intriguing to paint. I really enjoyed this one. I used Citadel paints for it. I also gave it a spray undercoat first, I do with all minis even ones that are already primed, too much of a habit now.
  11. Bartimeuase

    Black legionnaire 02464

    Inspired by Doug Sundseth’s red and white legionnaire, I did this mini for a paladin I want to play in an upcoming campaign. This guy offered a lot of fun details, especially the sword and sheath. I used Liquitex basics, with some Agrax Earthshade
  12. BrokenWolf668

    Finished and based Graveyard Golem

    All done up for a Halloween present. Hope you all enjoy, this was a fun one!
  13. Doug Sundseth

    02464: Black Legionnaire

    Found this figure looking for a two-handed swordsman in plate for an RPG character. Metals are P3 paints, the rest is a mixture of manufacturers.
  14. boldfont

    Dire Crab BONES 4

    I don’t have the lot number yet. Also, this is my first post so guidance on posting conventions is welcome. The Bones 4 haul was extraordinary! Edit: sized down. I’ll figure out how to get down to 150 kB later.
  15. Jasper_the_2nd

    Jasper vs. Duck Season

    As mentioned in the Rabbits topic, when I first saw 03929: Drangus, Duckman Warrior, I knew I'd found the opposition for my Rabbits. The problem is, duckmen don't seem nearly as common as Rabbits. This is my current "army". That's two copies of Drangus and Oathsworn's duck-billed platypus (it's got a bill so close enough!!). So far my quick search has only tracked down one set of Duckmen, by Rebel Minis (bookmarked!!). I'm hoping Reaper will expand their Duckman line in the comming months as well (please?). I'll be doing a weapon swap on one of the two Drangus's (Drangi?) to make them a little different. So if you know of any more Duckmen figs, or just duck figs, or really any associated waterfowl or waterfowlmen, feel free to let me know.
  16. So! This is my attempt at getting some fire lit under my behind and get to painting. I love miniature painting, been doing it... 15 years? Probably more if I count my Warhammer history. At some point I went from 'painting to game' to 'game to paint'. :) I have a lot of miniatures and a lot ambition. Unfortunately I also have a job that I love and I spend a lot of time with. When I do not though... I like to paint. I also like to GM, in the last years I have finished Serpent's Skull (Paizo AP), well at the time of writing the final session has been planned. I am also running Skull & Shackles, another Paizo AP. I have strongly modified book 6, which is where my PCs are at the moment. So that one is ending soon as well. Then I plan to take a break, maybe a year. Let some of the players run one-shots, a module, etc. Recharge the juices. :) Something that has been on my mind since it came out though was me wanting to run Wrath of the Righteous, a Paizo AP about a demon invasion/liberation thing. It is their mythic AP, basically a right good excuse to have the most epic demons, spellcasters, landscapes, etc. And of course, me being me, that gets in my head and I want to run it... Sure. But I want to run it fully painted and pretty. Not likely to happen, but I can try. I've been half-sassed trying to get stuff painted for... a while now. Ok years. I want to catalog the 'journey' a bit more. So I shall start a painting log specifically about the AP. So: Spoilers for the 'Wrath of the Righteous Adventure Path' for Pathfinder from here on in. Complete spoilery expected! *** *** *** *** Alright then. I have already finished painting a bunch of minis for the campaign. I shall get to re-posting those pictures sometime soon. I wanna get my hands dirty a bit again first. So I am focussing on the models Reaper Miniatures made specifically for WotR. Right now I have Xanthir Vang, a worm that walks from book 3, and Aravashnial, an NPC from book 1 onward on my table. I am also painting another Reaper miniature as Horgus Gwerm, a wealthy merchant. The miniature is actually a, I think, limited miniature specifically for Pathfinder Society. A friend in PFS gave it to me, cause he knew I love minis. It is called Grandmaster Torch, and was a 2010 Paizocon exclusive. :) Instead of creating a thousand-and-one WIPs I am going to just throw it all in here. :) So to get things started. The three characters on my desk atm! Horgus Gwerm (rich merchant) Not available in the Reaper store :( Aravashnial (an elf caster) Available here: Aravashniel, Elf Wizard Xanthir Vang (Worm-that-walks) Available here: Xanthir Vang
  17. Maglok

    16 bones 4 statues

    Boom! Partial stoney nudity: Females Partial stoney nudity: Males
  18. NebulousMissy

    Speed painting NPCs

    I'm running an adventure. I'm running an adventure that starts with a ball. A ball full of NPCs. Half are important, half die in the first few sessions. How to keep my players from distinguishing? Paint them all. Aaaaall of them. I have kept myself to less than 3 hours per mini. First, High Strategos Maxillar Pythareus. He's #77200 Sir Conlan The blue and green, while visually dull, will be a recurring theme among the NPCs. The kingdom's heraldry is a gold crown and white lion over a blue and green field.
  19. This is my diorama entry from Reapercon 2019 "Done and on to the next one". It received silver in the diorama category and 2nd place Dark Sword Individual Figure. The two figures are DSM7627 Female Ranger with Bow from Dark Sword Miniatures and 77189 Creature from the Blood Reef (Bones version) from Reaper Miniatures. My intention with this piece was to show a dynamic interaction between the two figures as compactly as possible and with a clear indication of the action, but with enough uncertainty in the details that the observer can be lead to many different interpretations of the story. For example, did the creature just miss her with a claw attack, or is he clinging to the rock in dying desperation while she contemptuously uses him as a launch pad? I went through many challenges with this figure (including crushing her in transport, breaking off her arm, crushing the bow and snapping off her leg at the ankle). Some of the detail work I did on this included: cleaning out the quiver and sculpting new arrows re-sculpting her chest and back to be a wool dress (the original figure has a bare stomach and back) adding the taught bow string using monofilament fishing line changing her bracer so that the buckles are on the side away from the bow string carving up and adjusting the creature layer by layer until he fit exactly where I wanted him (this is why I chose the Bones version - I would have found it nearly impossible with a metal figure) I am very grateful to Brice Cocanour who gave me a lot of advice on how to bring out the best look of the piece by adjusting the colour and value balance. He was also kind enough to let me use some of his tools and his big container of water effects to fix some of the problems with the base. Once again, I learned a ton from seeking help from the artists. I also really appreciate the feedback I got from the judges. As a first-timer at the MSP Open, I made some newbie mistakes that I will fix for next time, and as a long-time painter, I appreciated being told exactly where things were off so that I could reflect on them for future projects. The judges feedback was: They liked the tartan, the fabric texture and the colour choice. Some of the lines on the tartan could be made cleaner. One way to do this is to do the lines repeatedly with very thin paint. Small mistakes are then harder to see, but the correct position of the line gets hit repeatedly making the visual appearance of the lines neater. Another suggestion was to map out the tartan pattern in light grey first before adding any colour. Use pure white to make landmarks at the intersection points of the lines which are bright enough to show through the subsequent paint layers. This helps to make the layout of the pattern more precise and less risky. Because the pattern is laid out before any colour is added or a lot of work is put into highlights and shading, any mistakes in the layout can be corrected without having to do a lot of repair work. Overall composition was good with the story being very clear with the construction being very tight and kept to the essentials (no wasted space and unnecessary features). They liked the overall skin tone and highlight placement to focus attention on her face. They pointed out where improvements were needed to some of the blends on the skin, specifically on her calf where some of the shadow, dirt and highlight blends are misaligned or too abrupt and not bright enough (her ankle for example needs to be a bit brighter). The final surface texture of her skin could have been smoother. Suggestions for this included using brush-on sealer to smooth out flaws, paying close attention to cleanliness of the figure (eg large dust particles) and removing them as soon as they are found, then filling the craters and smoothing their edges, and glazing additional layers of the mid-tone to smooth out some of the edges of the blends. Clean up the water effects where they meet the base to give a crisper line between the action and the base. It was recommended to mount the diorama directly onto the wooden plinth if possible rather than on a gaming base attached to the top of the plinth. The judges scores were 3, 3 and 4 for 10/12 (Silver).
  20. Kangaroorex

    An experiment 02889 and others

    This grouping is a little eclectic because I was experimenting with a new medium. While I was at Reapercon, James Wapple introduced me to the joys of using oils to help me work on my tabletop minis and my blending. When I got home I found I had everything lying around except for some quality thinner so I got some of that, sat down and gave it a try. He has a number of YouTube videos describing the technique better than I ever could but it basically uses the fact that oils have an exceptionally long drying time to allow for some really nice wet blending without developing chalkyness or the layer steps I always get in dry blending. The oils being a heavier body also seems to help me give the mini a fur effect of different hairs across the body What I found was a new method, for me, that should help me clear a lot of army minis and take them from primed to done and looking good in a very short period of time. First thing I tried wss a whitehorm stag that I had sitting next to my desk when I got home. It was by wizkids and pre primed so easy pickens including setup that was about 40 minutes work and my first try. Next up wss a hippogryph which has been haunting my shelf of shame for 4 years now because I could never get the horse part right While not as good on the feathers (feathers aren't easy for me and these are barely scored enough to show detail) I finally got some results on the horsey part that I actually liked: nice warm red tones and highlights that don't look painted on. The chest feathers in was also able to get some highlights into that don look drybrushed. And again, this was another 40 minutes or so. Finally I decided to try some rats that I needed for a (hopefully) upcoming Rangers of Shadow's Deep campaign. Since the method Scott showed me uses #6 and #8 brushes I was curious how it would work on Such a small mini. I think it did very well, again giving me noce highlights in the fur without looking drybrushed and without taking a huge amount of time (30 minutes for the lot) Not too bad for my first few tries. I especially like how the greys and browns turned out but even the white rats have some character. I am certainly going to give it some more time and minis, both for animals and a huge group of Wrath of Kings minis that have languished in the back of my shelves for years. Hope you like what you see. They are my first trys and I really like the results
  21. Paradoxical Mouse

    Reapercon 2019 Bonehenge Iconic

    I can't recall which iconic she is, but I started her during Reapercon.
  22. Here is the Tiefling Sorcerer I just started working on for my next D&D campaign. My lovely wife is a writer and helped me with the backstory. Take a gander at the backstory and let me know what you think if you'd like... Otherwise, just take a look at the figure and follow along. I've been going back and forth with whether or not I should cut his horns off to fit the backstory or not.
  23. Maglok

    Fertility Idol

    I recently painted this fertility idol from Bones 4. Just for fun. Technically they are stone statue boobies, but boobies are boobies. CLICK HERE FOR VIEW FROM THE FRONT <--- (Stone) NUDITY Here is 'her' back though. :) PS: Couldn't find her in the store atm, maybe not released yet?
  24. Ooook

    KS Bones (Reaper)

    What's better to start my KS Bones topic than Mr. Bones himself ? (bigger pics on my blog : click the pic to go there)
  25. JudgeSamson

    77456 OGRE GUARD

    Here is my Reaper Bones Ogre Guard, 77456. It took a long time to finish the skin. I had a hard time getting it right with dry brushing layer upon layer and several washes, but I like the way it turned out.
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