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Found 11 results

  1. Having recently joined the airbrush crowd, I'm discovering how much i love blasting paint through it. Saving so so so so much time on my zenithal priming groups of minis. Now that I've got the priming and ink through it, I'm curious about another medium going through - varnish. I own satin and gloss varnish from liquitex. I've used them as brush on, which isn't my favorite. I want to know: 1. Has anyone used this in an airbrush? 2. If yes, how did you thin it? Did you use airbrush thinner or something else? 3. Does it require different
  2. I'm planning to test some different ways of varnishing Bones, since there is some confusion and some materials seem to dry sticky, or turn sticky after some time. This is going to be a long-term experiment because of the aforementioned change over time. I have a dozen rats and five mummies from the first two Bones Kickstarters which I have painted up in colors known for their shininess (the blacks and reds on the rats) and their matte qualities (the grey bases and the linen color on the mummies). These are super quick paints, just there to test the results. Once they are fully
  3. The goal is to make a miniature's shield look almost like a cracked crystal portal (to a galaxy). My thought to achieve this is to create an illusion of depth with an underpainting, MANY layers of varnish, and even small touches of paint between layers. Being a mini, there won't be too much bulk, but I wondered if anyone had any experience with a project like this and could offer any pointers. Would this idea work?
  4. I seal my miniatures with Liquitex High Gloss Varnish through an airbrush and then do a matte coat. Last year, I put a number of figures away sealed with gloss but did not get around to putting a matte coat on them. Figures were primed with Badger Stynylrez, had several paint brands used on them and washed with an ink/liquitex medium/flow improver/slow dri home made mix. Some of these figures were Reaper Bones, some were not. They were all kept in a display case that, while not airproof, does keep dust out and is not in direct sunlight. The metal, resin and hard plastic figures have cured just
  5. Hey folks! A newcomer to the forums just made a comment that they did not know what Dullcote was, so after explaining what it was and adding a pic of the can, I thought I would add a link to a discussion on sealers.... Imagine my surprise when I searched the pinned resources to find nothing listed! Now a search of this forum gave me many hits to a lot of different threads, but they were all about a problem, or people asking questions or something other. So I decided to start a thread talking about Sealers. Now I use Dullcote Spray Lacquer from Testors, and have been using i
  6. So all, I just finished something this morning, the combination of middle age and wanting to get things done before people start waking up and make me do other random fun things (like take down the Christmas decorations) and I want to seal it. I normally wait for a day for whatever reason, but I'd like to get this figure finished and move on. Is there a recommended minimum drying time for paint before you throw varnish on it?
  7. I have been using Testors Dullcote on all the bones models I paint as a final varnish following the satin purity seal varnish I have. I have tried looking for more varnish here in the UK and every online shop seems to be out of stock. What makes it worse it seems that our postal service has decided that posting and handling aerosol cans is more dangerous then anything so the cost of postage has go up for couriers. Can anyone recommend an alternative Matt varnish or lacquer that is readily available in the UK? Thanks
  8. I've been encountering some problems in a search for a new varnish. Mostly on leftover sprues that I've painted up just to test varnish. I started painting off and on again last year and eventually decided I had enough of spray sealers and wanted to go brush on/airbrush. I haven't moved on to the airbrush stage yet as I've been having problems actually finding a varnish. I've got two that seem to work well for the gloss coat, Liquitex High Gloss Varnish and Vallejo Gloss Varnish. Occasionally a coat will stay very slightly tacky after it has dried (multiple days). Sometimes (but very rarely) i
  9. Hello All, This is my first post so please excuse any incorrect use of etiquette here. I hope this hasn't been posted elsewhere. I have searched for varnishing tips and I get conflicting information all over the net. Each person has their own methods and what works for them it seems. I have a pewter mini I purchased through Reaper. (Lucius Panderwagon) It is my first one. I have just about finished painting it and I purchased some varnish to complete it. I have Liquitex Matte Varnish. The liquid inside looks cloudy and when I test paint it on a surface it gives it a light frosti
  10. Hello, everyone. I recently finished a miniature I had been working on for a few days. Proud of the paint job, and knowing it was going to be used for tabletop gaming, as is my standard, I applied 2 coats of spray-on Matte Krylon. (Exact product: http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Matte-Finish-Spray-Artists/dp/B000RMPT0C/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1369944326&sr=8-9&keywords=dullcote) Imagine my surprise when I noticed, "Hey, this thing is kinda shiny....." Now, I have never before used glossy varnish, until a few months ago when I began to paint again, and read about the
  11. Hi all, Quick question: I was in Kansas City this weekend and visited a hobby store there, Tabletop Games. Really nice place and they carry the full line of Reaper paints. I got a brush on sealer 09107 because I'm running out of the Vallejo stuff I had. So the question is - is this Reaper sealer a flat, matte finish or does it have a shine to it? Thanks, Mark
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