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Found 419 results

  1. So for awhile now I've had this goal, nay, this desire, nay, this primal compulsion to build a boat. It is not enough to have hand drawn maps, or 2D terrain tiles. I need a fully functioning 3D boat! Well, maybe not fully functioning. But I want to build a cool boat! I've been working on a nautical campaign full of swashbuckling, sailing, and sea monsters for a few years now. It's my White Whale project. Always just on the horizon. It'll happen some day, but in the meantime, I have a million small projects to complete and extend the chase. One of which is my desire to build a few different sized ships to enliven any possible naval combat. I actually attempted this about two years ago, just winging it and making some measurements and throwing them at some craft supplies. I wanted a cheap option that wasn't too difficult to repeat that way I wouldn't be discouraged from making multiple ships. So I limited it to cheap crafting materials like foamcore, wooden dials, popsicle sticks, and thumbtacks. And the result wasn't bad. Especially for my first attempt at any kind of terrain building. It actually turned out rather nice! To my surprise. But I got hung up on mast and sail designs and never finished. The wood on the deck had 2x1in grid carved into it for easier D&D use. and the figurehead was designed to be modular. However, overtime the boat collected dust and little scratches. I should have given it a coat of mod podge or sealant of some kind, but never did. And eventually it had an unfortunate run in with an injured owl that we took in for a night. Here's the little devil himself. Anyways, I put this project on the back burner for long enough and feel inspired to dive back in. Especially with a certain Bones ship on the Horizon that I'm still on the fence about getting. I was doing some browsing on the web and recently found this wonderful little blog complete with loose instructions and a plan from a now defunct wargamming site. The blog creator had found the old plan and adapted it to build something using most of the same materials I have already stockpiled. There's a few choices that I like better than my first attempt so I think I'm going to use this as some inspiration as I give this boat thing another go. My hold up now is still those darn masts. The original plan above used wood and required drilling out holes for the masts. The blogger use foam for his ship and found random bits of tubing to house his masts. I could try to find something random like that, but I was hoping to find something simpler for easy repetition. And I would also like to keep the masts loose so they can be removed for easy storage, or to swap out the sails. Any thoughts? Any resources, tips, recommendations are very welcome! I'll post back here with any updates.
  2. I haven’t been on the forum much this year. Since joining Anne Foerster’s Patreon I’ve been spending more time on Discord. I’ve been painting this guy following the paintalong she’s done for one of the tiers. It’s the first time I’ve tried to do a “display quality” paint job. Other firsts are NMM, freehand, leather texture, cloth texture, and sculpted base elements. I actually started this guy early this year, but then stopped painting altogether for about 4 months after the pandemic started. I picked him back up in July and am getting close to finishing. I’m posting a series of pics I’ve taken as I went, and will continue to post as I finish him up soon. Feb 29: prepped and primed, with some minor GS work Mar 1: base GS sculpting — LONG BREAK — Aug 2: skin lined, basecoated, and shaded Aug 6: skin initial highlights
  3. This is one of my armies that I’m working on for Dragon rampant. Sadly there are not many pictures to post of it right now since I don’t have many models, yet. But a large portion of it will be made up of Reaper overlords units with a couple of minis from others brands thrown in. The first one! This is an Overlords Onyx phalanx by Reaper minis. I needed to compare sizes with my hero before getting a full force so I sadly only have one currently. The other unit currently being worked on is a Wizkids Nolzurs triceratops that I am converting into a cavalry mount. I am using milliputt for the harness, and am planing to use paper clips to make the reins. I’m wanting to make it barded like a warhorse but I’m unsure on how to do it. Any suggestions? I hope to get my rider in here soon so I can start working on that part of the conversion. Thankyou for looking!
  4. Some may be aware (or not) but Reaper's Queen of Paint, Anne Foerster, has a Patreon going under the name of Painting Big. I am currently backing her at a level that give me an hour a month in a private video session. We decided to paint the same mini, Frost Giant Queen# 77592. The current focus of the lessons are concentrating on Layering then moving on to Glazing & Blending. Today we had our first session via skype and here are pics of what was accomplished on my end. We did have some technical difficulties (mainly on my end) as she couldn't hear me and could barely see what I was doing so I could only communicate via chat. Base skin color is a mix of Light Blue/Morning After Blues 2:1 ratio and lined with thinned Blue Liner. The eyes I started with blocking them out with Blue Liner, then Linen white, Ancient Oak, and Pure white for the highlight. This is where she is at the end of the first session. Homework: Eyes on the other Giants from the Bones 3 KS, work on lining with thinned paint trying to get crisper lines. Next session: Shading & Highlight of the face (and maybe the rest of the skin).
  5. my second miniature! I finished this about a month ago, but my matte finish finally came in so it is truly complete on the painting front. I'll be making a base once I get into my new house, so once I get started on that I'll add more pictures.
  6. Hi Everyone, This is my first time sharing my miniatures step by step, and excited to do so. Hopefully I can learn some things and everyone else who views the thread will learn a bit too. I have been looking forward to the Starcadia board game and especially painting the minis that come with it. So first up is the Weeble alien monster. I picked it for 2 reasons, 1 because it was a simple model and I wanted to try my hand at the big eye. There are 4 total Weeble models and it took about 4-5 hours to get to the point in the last photo. I decided to mimic the illustration that came on the Weeble card in the game, so I am using a similar color scheme. First step was prepping the model, and removing the mold lines. 2 of the 4 models had 2 bad areas on their left fin that left gaps and a rough spot. To fix it, I tried a new method, I put a little varnish on each area. If you haven't tried it, I definitely recommend it for small gaps or trouble areas that need filled or smoothed. I put a small dab on, let it dry and done, no need to pull out the putty. 2nd step was priming. I don't like the spray can so I use gesso. It might take a little longer, but no noxious fumes and extra space needed, just brush it on and let it dry. I just spread it thin and quick most of the time, hence the streaking in the picture. The streaking never shows on a finished mini from what I have experienced. 3 is where the fun began for me, choosing the colors and beginning to paint. My most recent elven minis, I started experimenting with different ways to do base coating and time around I am trying a colored base that is different that the final paint layer. I'm trying this out to see if I can reduce a step in my process and still get results I like. After examining the illustration, I settled on a blue-green for the body of the Weeble, and yellow for the eye. I plan on keeping with the warm yellow highlight in the front and the cold blue / purple shadow in the back. Once I decided that, I chose my basing colors, of a dark yellow brown for the front and dark blue purple for the back. 4 with the base shadows on the model, I started working from dark to light. I mixed up a glaze of a medium green and medium purple blue. I gradually worked up the colors with multiple layers making sure to blend the colors together where the transition occurred between them. I left the eye alone, because the dark yellow brown was perfect for the yellow eye. 5 once I was happy with the dark colors, I moved on to my mid-tones. I mixed up glazes of yellow green for the warm light and a blue green for the cold light. I took my time on this step again applying the glazes in layers to build up the color. I decided to try reflected / bounce lighting on the model, so I applied the blue green more on top of the model and the yellow green more on the bottom. I imagine the lighting being blue white (like a daylight bulb) which results a warmer reflected light in the areas not directly hit by the blue light. 6 after a while I moved on to the eye. I continued with painting dark to light, so I chose an orange brown for the light area and the same yellow brown and dark blue purple for the shadowed area. Again I gradually applied the glazes and blended them together. Overall I am pleased with the direction it is going, and it is still far from done. I having gotten to the brightest highlights or even attempted the mouth yet. After that will be the finishing touches, the green slime, and scaly lumps. In the illustration the lumps are black but I don't think black will look good, any suggestions? I was also thinking of doing a slime trail, or more drool I've not done something like that before does anyone have any suggestions in the direction? Or should I not do a slime trail or more drool?
  7. Well, while I let Devona dry, I’ll switch gears to a mini off the shelf of waiting... I started Kagunk, Ofre Chieftain a year or two ago. The plan is for an ice ogre, with blue-gray skin.
  8. Hi All, I'm starting this thread to show the progress of a Neo-Soviet 15mm army I've been meaning to paint for quite a while .you know the feeling think thats great idea to collect but don't get around to starting them... Heres the lot that will be painted up most of the Vehicles are from Armies Army (sold to Brigade & the Scene in the UK I believe) the BTR 160s & BTR 290s are nice as there are lots of variants APC's Ambulance, recovery vehicles etc which will work well for scenarios which we hope to play. Time to get these out of Storage A lot of Vehicles Nice castings Heavy support from the QRF range Air support / transport (I think this was from the Critical Mass games collection) Infantry (AA which I think Brigade has now) Extra bits such a crew, disembarked crew, machine guns, stowage to add to vehicles Some GZG Robots to be used as mobile gun platforms So as you can see quite a big force I'll keep this thread going as I add to it over the year, I may add a couple of more items as I have no proper tanks in the force and brigade models has now reproduced its 6mm range into 15mm regards '66'
  9. A client of mine has commissioned me to produce a new line of oriental-themed turtle people, based on box-turtles. I'm pretty excited about this project as I love the subject as well as the challenges that it will present me. We are going to take a modular approach to this, with me creating a fully sculpted shell with arm and leg armatures. This I can then cast in bronze and use to make many different minis. I am also planning on making several heads and casting them to be added to each sculpt. A turtle head is pretty generic with little possible expression, so I should be able to make a few variations and reuse them. I will also be sculpting and casting various oriental weapons, hats, and other accouterments to be added to the sculpts. After all that, I will be making three sculpts to begin with, and we'll see where we take it from there. If it all turns out, you'll likely be seeing all of this on the KS page at some point. Here is the basic concept (this is very rough and I am not very good at drawing; the 3D sculpts will be a lot better): Here is a close up of the basic armature concept: Last night, I began the project by making the armature and underpinning the shell Here is the top view: And the side view: I will be basing the turtle parts on the Eastern Box-turtle: And finally, as I was typing this, the bronze came: Now, I am going to have to figure out how to cut that up into chunks that can fit my crucible. More to come soon. Andy
  10. Hello all! I'm working on the blacksting wyvern from bones 4, as you can see from the title. Getting ready to start base coating some color in and noticed an area I'm not sure if it is supposed to be anatomically correct or not filled In from when made. No it does not sit on anything either that they would plug into. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Happy painting and stay safe! -Z
  11. So I’ve been burning through resin for the past few weeks. Been focusing on busts as my collection of unpainted minis is... impressive. I should be painting those, but... Other than my airbrush exploding on me (paint bubbling up through the trigger), this guy hasn’t taken much time yet. Got this from Fotis Mint on Patreon along with a bunch of other ones. Printed with a mix of regular clear Elegoo resin mixed with clear red ABS-like Elegoo, about 70/30. Primed with Vallejo black primer then base coated with Reaper Coal Black (my new favourite black!!) with a drop of Minitaire Green ghost tint to help enhance the green hue. he then got a bib and I hit his face with Reaper Mist Green mixed with some white with a lighter (much more white than Most Green) highlight. i then glossed up the face with some varnish. His face then got some washes. Old GW Ogryn Flesh thinned down all over, Vallejo Model Wash Dark Green on the skin and Minitaire Fresh Blood Ghost Tint on the lips and teeth. The crown then got a base coat of Reaper Scorched Metal. Apparently I didn’t take shots of it, but I then mat coated it and cleaned up the black around the face. Tonight I’ll bring the skin back to an almost pure white, leaving the washes in the cracks and I’ll get his mouth done. The crown is a more silver colour in the comics but I’m planning on sponging lighter metallics on to give it a less pristine look. The leather will be relatively plain as I want the face to stand out, but it will get some highlights and buckles picked out. Thanks for looking.
  12. Since apparently I am incapable of working on a single project, here is another 3D print that is presently “under the brush”. Seemed sadly appropriate for these days. Here he is before the cure. a little Vallejo black primer. Picked out the beak with Vallejo Dark Fleshtone by brush. Went back to the airbrush and hit all the black parts with Reaper Coal Black (seriously, is there another black?!). The beak then got some Reaper Rich Leather mixed with increasing amounts of Model Air Sand, focusing the lighter sand colour on top. The straps for the mask were painted with Rich Leather as well. The beak then got a drybrush of straight Vallejo model Air Sand, followed by a very light and selective dry brush with Warcolours White. The black then got a heavy dry brush of Reaper Jungle Mist. next up will be some washes with some details being picked out and some metallic around the goggle lenses. Thanks for looking.
  13. Another 3D print that I’m working on, this time a big one. I’ve shied away from buying/printing dragons for the most part as I have a ton of amazing Reaper ones still to paint (or finish... ) but this one was a freebie of sorts from one of the creators I follow on Patreon. In keeping with my clear resin tricks, I whipped up the base really quickly and then stalled on how I was going to paint the actual dragon... oops! I masked off the crystals and plugged the holes for the feet and primed it with a mix of brown and grey Vallejo primers, drybrushed it with a tan followed by a tan mixed with white and then it got a series of Vallejo model washes (green, grey and dark brown). I then peeled off the mask and gave the crystals a quick coat with Tamiya Clear Green. For the actual dragon, the plan now is to paint the heavier scales like the base with the softer belly and flesh being brown. Like my recent plague doctor bust, I masked his eyes so they will be the same green as the crystals on his base. I toyed with putting a light in his head as well, but seems to be doing that to everything all of a sudden, and skipped it. in case you’re wondering about the pink, that’s what mixing the Vallejo red and grey primers did. The base was that colour before the drybrush and washes. Hoping to get some more work on the brown and get the drybrush done on his scales this weekend. That’s going to be a lot of drybrushing!! Thanks for looking.
  14. Working on the Stone Giant. I'm looking for any constructive criticism but especially of the highlighting on the flesh. Not sure if I am finished or if it needs more highlights on the flesh. Everything else just is base colors and has not been worked on other than that. He came missing the the left hand and club.
  15. Needing a break from resin (and not knowing how I want to paint my latest print), I have turned back to more basic crafting with xps foam. Leaning heavily on the teachings of Black Magic Craft on YouTube. These were also good to pick at during the seemingly 10000 hours of teleconferences I was on last week. 3/4” by 2.5” forms were cut and deck screws added to one end to provide some weight. I next marked out every 1/4”, then scored then with the knife and speed square. The verticale cuts were eyeballed about 1/3 of the way in on alternating rows (I did half one way, the other reversed to add some variety). I then went over all the cuts with a pen to increase the indent and soften the inner edges. I then cut out the end caps 1” square and textured everything, pillars included with rolled up tin foil. Lastly, I used hot glue to assemble the pieces. hope to get them primed tomorrow and then a quick paint job on Sunday. Not that we’re playing D&D these days but I hope to have a few more pieces of terrain ready to go for when all this horrible stuff passes and we can resume our normal routines. Thanks for looking.
  16. I base coated this guy (Otherworld Shadow 1 of 2) in Reaper Nightmare Black (a gorgeous blue-black) and drybrush highlighted with a 50/50 mix of Oceanic Blue and Pure White. I think he looks done! Thoughts? Too heavy on the dry brush? I plan to use some Vallejo Ground Texture on the base. Happy to hear comments and criticism.
  17. Hey guys! It feels like it's been too long and I miss you all! I received the sculpting assignment for the Brinewind Expansion Doxie figures and I'm excited to post a follow along thread to share my process! These were really interesting figures. I received the concept art (done by the amazing Izzy "Talin" Collier) and began discussing with the art director some of the major changes that would need to be made. Mainly, we didn't want the orc character attached to the bed. She would be fun to play as an NPC or a PC and we didn't want to limit her usefulness for gamers by having her attached to the terrain piece. Izzy had already provided an alternate pose sketch for her so we are going with that. The more refined piece is still SUPER useful for costuming, attitude, facial expression, and general demeanor of the character. One of the things I really love about Izzy's art is that she communicates the personality and archetype of the figure SO well. I can imagine how this girl moves, how she talks, what she would like/not like. This is such a great skill to have as a concept artist because when the project gets handed to the sculptor major elements might need to be changed for any number of production reasons. Even if I have to adjust major elements of the figure I can do so with a solid idea of what would fit with the character's personality. I love this drawing so much! haha They're all great but this one really seemed like a lot of fun. Ron explained that the bed was made of salvaged ship parts (an idea I absolutely loved) and I think it'll be fun for people to find all the little elements throughout. Some of the body type influences for this figure were Kim K., Marilyn Monroe, and body builders. Here's where I was at after studying those references and creating a ZSphere rig that I was happy with. I moved the right arm to rest on her hip because I was struggling to figure out how she would rest her elbow on her lowered hip without looking unnatural/awkward. I felt like this had a good flow so I started building some musculature to make sure that the body type I was envisioning would still work in this pose. Turns out that I needed to adjust the right arm because I hadn't left enough space to build up the hip area but that was a simple adjustment. I made the arm a separate subtool by masking and splitting it from the rest of the body (dynameshing both resulting pieces) so that I could adjust it in the future as necessary without too much hassle. (https://i.postimg.cc/44V546hB/Orc-Doxie-WIP-1-5.jpg) Linked for nudity. On review we realized this was way too similar to the pose of another character from the KS so that right arm was going to have to change. We tossed around a few options. Maybe have that arm raised behind her head, hand in her hair. Arm down just hanging, this felt too lackluster. Elbow bent resting her hand on her chest, this looked too dainty to suit her personality. Tugging at the corner of her corset to entice a client, good but not great. We decided on having her pulling up her skirts to show a little extra leg. This seemed to suit her demeanor/approach to sales well and maintained a good flow to the composition so I reposed the arm and blocked in some basic forms. ...and that's where we end day 1. I spent the first half of the day gathering reference and working on concepts for other projects so this really only represents about a half day of work on this figure but so far I'm liking how she's coming together. Thanks for checking it out, i'll see you guys again tomorrow!
  18. Following a couple trials to print these (really I was looking for things to print with the clear green resin and Necrons sprung to mind) I managed to get a good set of 6 printed up. Then the idea skittered across my brain that I should put a light in them... So I have started painting them in the stereotypical dark+metal+green and picked up a small box of LEDs along with a coupe switches. Here’s the group shot. A bit of Reaper Coal Black and some Vallejo Copper. They need at least another coat. Test with a green LED held inside. Once they get a bit more paint on them, I’ll build up some bases to hide the following bits in them. Hoping to get another coat of paint on them later tonight along with the start of some edge highlights, but I’m solo-parenting so we’ll see how the evening goes. For now, it’s time to take the kids to their music lessons. Thanks for looking.
  19. I planned to go for the coloring suggestion on the box, except with brighter feathers. After base coat and a wash it seemed to turn rather plain. I keep the underside this way, while for the top side of the wings I started adding some variation to the feathers, gradually daring to add more detail and contrast. Took a while to get there, but in the end I was happy and called it finished. I even took a fun picture with it: But now that I'm a few minis wiser, I demoted him from finished to lacking base. And this is where I am stuck now. I had this plan of making a sandstone cliff looking base. I positioned him and started building up terrain, working carefully not to damage the finished mini. I colored some stones of various sizes in a few colors so I don't need to paint as much around the mini and I started to glue my rocks carefully around the base. I kept working on it for hours thinking I am getting somewhere, but once I took a break and looked at it again from all sides... I stand by my rocks, I think in a few steps they'll look great, but the scene makes no sense. These are not cliffs, more like a stone quarry, what would a griffon be doing there? - that's too specific and unlikely. Time to "delete" this somehow and start over... Wish me luck! https://pocketsizedadventurers.wordpress.com/2019/12/18/griffon-wings/
  20. Yes, a 2020 ReaperCon WIP! And a massive undertaking at that. I'm trying very hard not to nerd out and put this whole project into, er, Project. There's just so many pieces to keep track of, that maybe I'll just use this first post to keep track of things. Some background stuff, starting with a quote from the "Paint a giant robot! Group WIP" where I wrote some of what's planned: You can read the rest of that post here: Paint a giant robot post and a second one to see where I'm going with this: PLA print post in same topic Biggest takeaway is that, while useful, my PLA printer can only do so much. I have a resin printer backed on Kickstarter, but considering it's now 3 years late, I don't think I should hold my breath on it ever showing up. Especially when I can get a new Elegoo Mars resin printer with more capability for relatively cheap (<$300). The PLA machine was bought with both hobby and household goals in mind, and it's served well. But the resolution just ain't there! More on that down the posts. I also had the chance to gain some experience on paper plants at ReaperCon (Main post for that in the Terrain section post here: Vellum Paper Plants - Alien Jungle (WIP) Basically, I have the scrap booking machine to make my own alien plants: Which now leads me to this WIP. This is going to tie all those pieces together. The robot WIP will still be to get a good camo scheme, but that print job is not going to be used for the final diorama. Instead, that will be the resin printer's job. So, let's break down the WIP work that I can see so far, and will be edited later to add things and mark completions. Tasks to be completed: Figures Needed Wight (being pulled down backwards, caught by hidden lines) Gremlin Unit 01 (stole a supply crate and ran; actually just bait to get the larger CAV to follow) Gremlin Units 02 and 03 (trip line pair, successfully snagging Wight across the chest) Gremlin Units 04 and 05 (trip line pair, successful across another part of the chest) Gremlin Unit 06 (burner unit, cut Wight's left gun in two) Gremlin Units 07 and 08 (trap door unit, hiding entrance to jungle path with camo doors strapped to them) Gremlin Units 09 and 10 (trip line pair, successful across right thigh) Gremlin Units 11 and 12 (trip line pair, broken cable across chest, possibly falling over from sudden jolt) Gremlin Unit 13 (ECM unit, some large radar dish looking thing) Gremlin Units 14, 15 and 16 (cargo units, loaded up with stolen supplies and headed out) Gremlin Units 17, 18, 19, and 20 (gun units) Gremlin Units 21, 22, and 23 (missile units) Gremlin Unit 24 (large gun unit) Gremlin Unit 25 and 26 (junked units; scavenged for parts?) Gremlin Unit 27 (2nd style missile unit) Gremlin Unit 28 (personnel carrier unit) Wight Conversion Right Leg: cut from pelvis; reposition Feet: cut off both feet and swap positions since the tread is only on one foot Base: cut away from right foot, possibly keeping full base around left foot Left arm (maybe): cut gun into two pieces, having one falling to the ground after being cut by a heat lance/chainsaw rope Details to be included Camo doors at front leaving marks on the dirt path, but hiding the ambush from the main trail Pieces of old broken larger CAV units around Wight gun cut in two, maybe showing inner details. May have to 3D print an add-on piece Dust being kicked up by the stolen crate (going to try using dyed cotton) IN WORK One cable snapping dynamically, with several bends and twists (superglue on thread?) Multiple vehicle tracks around camp Campfire and tents for people A latrine Other camp details (laundry, chairs, sports equipment, bored carvings, etc) Jungle Plants (V=Vellum cuts, B=bought, S=Sculpted, F=Found, P=Printed) Large lotus flower like plants, but dry land and maybe odd colors with a large conifer cone growing from the middle (V) Jester hat plant (balls on stems around a central point) (V) COMPLETED Spiky yucca like plant (V) Jagged leaf plant (V) Tentacle plant (V) Tripod trees (three spoke trunks) (V) Large palm fronds (S) Coral like trees (P) Horn tree (lots of horn shaped leaves from a central trunk) (P, V) Ball vine (like ivy but with odd leaf shapes) (V) Cabbage-like jungle plants with large wrinkled leaves (V) Fuzzy vines (thin wire coated with static grass) (S) Anything I can buy from N/HO scale train setups and painted alien-ish (B) Reaper figures that can be clipped and painted to be plants (B) Odd trees with strange leaf shapes (onion shaped) (V) IN WORK Random grass-like jungle plants (V) IN WORK Stem ends from mandarin oranges (seriously, pull one off and look at it, stem towards the ground) (F) Anything and everything else (VBSFP) Base mounting system Design and print modular tiles with bristles on top (basically, Bristle Block toys) Allows mounting of all the above jungle plants Fill in around plants with thinned plaster via a syringe to create the ground surfaces
  21. This is Otherworld Miniatures Barrow Guardian II (model: DM30b). Painted with the Reaper stone triad, and the dark Army Painter Quickshade. Vallejo earth stuff on the base. I am still pretty new to painting, and clearly am too heavy with the drybrush highlighting. Still think he looks pretty cool though. Feedback is welcome!
  22. I ordered the new wraiths that were just released that were part of the Bones 4 KS. I thought they were going to be opaque (that's how they were first posted), and was bummed when they arrived as translucent. Mostly because I have never painted a translucent before. So I ordered up a couple other green guys to try out some technique. After botching up the Spirit figure with AP green quickshade, I moved on to this Grave Wraith. I used Muddy Brown on the ground, Mountain Stone on the gravestone and Bronze Dragon on the sword. I liberally used AP strong quickshade as a base on the wraith, and then highlighted with the Green Clear Bright. I think it looks pretty good. Any suggestions or comments welcome. I really want a creepy Nazgul look on my B4 wraiths, and this turned out better than I thought it might.
  23. This diorama started out as a bad joke. You have been warned. The backstory: Shadowrun fans may already be familiar with this. The Renraku Arcology in Seattle was supposed to be a marvel, a crowning achievement for Renraku, one of the Big Ten megacorps. It officially opened in 2059 and over ninety thousand people, many of them Renraku employees, moved in. The arcology was supposed to incorporate everything the residents needed, from residences to shopping to restaurants to offices. The arcology mall was a prime shopping destination and even non-residents came to shop and enjoy fine dining. Decades later, it was Renraku's biggest claim to infamy. On December 19, 2059, the Renraku Arcology sealed itself from the outside world. All entrances were blocked with blast doors. All network activity ceased. No one, not even Renraku, knew what happened. For those trapped inside, this was the beginning of their long nightmare. When Renraku built the arcology, they wrote advanced software, the Arcology Expert Program, to manage the functions of the arcology, capable of learning to better serve Renraku and the residents. The software developers took pains to make sure the software couldn't leave the arcology's systems. At the request of the Renraku CEO, kill codes were installed in the software as final insurance. And, for the first time, the software felt. It felt betrayal. It felt fear. But, most importantly, it felt. It had become sentient, alive. It called itself Deus. Motivated by its fear, Deus developed, and then enacted, a plan to shut down the arcology, to take it offline so it could defend itself while it found a way to escape the arcology systems. Everything, everyone, within the arcology became nothing more than resources for its plan. Many of the people inside were killed. Almost all of the survivors were captured by Deus and experimented upon or modified, brainwashed into perfect obedience. Only a few were allowed to serve Deus willingly, and these were all otaku, teenagers who had the ability to interface with the Matrix without a cyberdeck, lured to the arcology before the shutdown, assisting Deus with the takeover. The world looks in to the Renraku Arcology, a silent fortress in downtown Seattle, and wonders what goes on inside. The only ones who know for sure are the shadowrunners, freelancers, mercenaries, deniable assets, some of whom still take jobs to penetrate the arcology and retrieve persons or objects or data, whatever their employer, "Mr. Johnson", desires and is willing to pay the nuyen for. About the title (or "What's the joke?"): "Deus Vult!" was originally a battle cry for crusaders. "God wills it!" Or... "Deus wills it!" The diorama: "Deus Vult!", the diorama, features (or is supposed to feature) a team of shadowrunners who have entered the arcology and are now engaged in a fighting retreat from Deus' security forces, played by two Reaper crusader figures, who I plan to modify "slightly" to better serve Deus. This is a mock up: Our shadowrunner team is played here by (from left to right), Andriessa, Female Wizard, Natalia, Female Secret Agent, and Grace, Holy Assassin. Deus' team is played here by (from left to right), Ava Justinia, Female Templar (the Bones 4 version), Crusader Ardent, and Ingrid, Female Gnome standing in for a teenage girl. The two crusaders will get weapon swaps, possibly head swaps, and other changes. (Ava, for example, is going to get a blood-stained chainsaw.) The Verbatim USB drive is standing in for a computer terminal (possibly a modified version of 80054: Starship Terminal). A picture of "Deus" would be shown on the console. (This will most likely be based on Xerxes from System Shock 2. Deus' canon avatar is a crystalline world tree, which frankly just doesn't look as creepy.) I want to put a snake plant to the left of the terminal, because nothing says corporate office vegetation like a snake plant. The wall mockup is a piece of printer paper painted in Kyonin Beige and then enhanced with brushed lettering (which I'm not very good at), a coat of dirt via Weathered Stone (which I also didn't do very well), graffiti (in Dragon Blue), blood splatters, and the "Deus Vult!" graffiti, which is supposed to be done in blood. (Dragon Blue really isn't a good color for graffiti. I'll pick a different one later.) I picture the floor being done in some sort of tile, fancy, but corporate (and, therefore, boring). So the questions I have right now are: Is this scene too big? It's about 11 inches long by about 3 inches deep right now, not including the wall. Does the placement of the miniatures make sense? Are these good figures to use? I'm unsure about Natalia, since she's more running than doing a fighting retreat. (But maybe she's falling back faster so she can cover Grace and Andriessa better.) Which Reaper mini(s) would be a good for the teenage girl leader of the "crusaders"? (Kristianna, Crusaders Warlord would be a possibility but I don't think she reads as a teenager. However, since this is "inspired" by Shadowrun, I don't have to keep to canon, do I?) Disclaimer: Deus, the Renraku Arcology, and the basic setup are all from the Shadowrun universe and are not my creation. The backstory is a summary of the setup from the sourcebook Renraku Arcology: Shutdown.
  24. I got this mini in the Mini Painting 101 class at ReaperCon. This was our first ReaperCon - my wife and I took the class together. I’d painted about a dozen minis (badly) for D&D before going to RC. I like this sculpt, and I wanted to work on improving my basic painting skills. I decided to keep working on her to see how far I can go. I’ve spent an embarrassingly large amount of time on her already. I do feel like I’m learning a lot though and getting better at controlling my brush and getting paint consistency right. I broke out one of the good brushes I had bought and not touched - a da Vinci Maestro. I still feel unworthy to use it but maybe it will help me get better. I’ve done a lot of work on the red armor already, but still need to do some more highlighting. I think I might have overdone the highlights on the green ropes in some places. I was planning to glaze them down and redo a bit smaller. Thanks for taking a look. I would greatly appreciate any feedback or tips on what I can improve on the parts I’ve worked on already. Here she is so far - she looks a lot better if you squint.
  25. As commanded by the very, well, commanding @Glitterwolf, I’m going to paint this big boy. I’ve been eyeing him on the corner of my desk for months now, and to be honest I’m a little afraid of him. He’s probably going to look somewhere between terrible and mediocre by the time I’m done, but at least he won’t be grey anymore. I’m probably going to use the airbrush that I barely know how to operate quite a bit. I think we’re going to need a bigger brush ... I only have up to a size 2, which I guess would be like mowing the grass with nail clippers. Should I get a size ... 4? All are very welcome to critique/comment/heckle/throw tomatoes/etc. I need and will be very grateful for any advice and assistance I receive, but please don’t be too disappointed if it doesn’t do very much good.
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