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Found 42 results

  1. Tiny Furniture's "Inserts 25mm - Village garbage" is a five-piece set of 1" circular garbage base inserts for your miniatures. They may also be used as terrain, objective markers, etc, with or without bases. Like Tiny Furniture's other miniatures, they have the high level of detail you expect, and can be painted easily by beginner players. Like Tiny Furniture's "Dungeon Garbage", the miniature bases have an assortment of garbage suitable for dungeons, city states, and villages. Each heap pile is a collection of smaller distinct items, so, like "Dungeon Garbage" you have the option of giving as much attention (and time) to the details as you would like. The bases are available unpainted. While I didn't see a painted version in the catalog, you can contact Tiny Furniture and see if a painted version is available. The five bases have different garbage: * Rat with barrel, plate, and bone. * Chest with broken plate. * Broken wheel, urn, and skull. * Broken barrel bottom, wood, and urn. * Broken pottery and wood. Color Scheme : Realistic and in the Background. Unlike Tiny Furniture's "Garbage Debris" miniature set, you may not want the garbage bases to be so demanding that they take the focus of the viewer's attention from the miniature on the base. This may result in the overall miniature and base looking too busy, as each element of the miniature and base is demanding the viewer's attention. At most, maybe the rat might be painted to be more noticeable by the viewer. Real garbage is a homogenous mess, typically brown, so I went with painting the miniature with that in mind, still painting the features differently if the viewer picks up the miniature to look at it closely. One of the photos has the "Garbage Debris" set next to the inserts. Painting Tips. I primed in a brown colored primer, followed by a dark brown wash, such as Army Painter's Strong Tone wash. I then painted the wooden pieces the same brown color, more or less. Skulls and bones were painted ochre. Optionally, you can then drybrush or paint ochre as an undercoat for lighter or different colors. Besides paints, you can use washes for a faded coloring. Both the Army Painter and Secret Weapon Miniatures has a range of colored washes you can use. To unify the base, I then used a brown wash, Secret Weapon Miniature's Sewer Water. You can then edge-highlight wood, etc. with a lighter brown and ochre. For the rat, I painted it grey, with flesh tone paws and ears, then black for its eyes. To make the rat stand out a little, I did not wash it. Conclusion. Most painters considering Tiny Furniture's "Inserts 25mm - Village garbage" are probably intermediate painters, but the set should be accessible to beginners with some terrain experience as well. The inserts can be used as garbage piles for a variety of other uses, such as objective markers, rough terrain, garbage piles, and so on.
  2. Designs include cobblestone, cobblestone, green 40K, and yeah I'll pick up more cobblestone. Made in the USA. Economic disruption in China has shut down non-essential production, including plastic injection figures. Q&A on Dakka : https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/785873.page Live: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/secretweapon/hd-bases-by-secret-weapon-miniatures
  3. I put in for a bag on the Black Friday sale, because ever since I was a kid, I had a certain fascination with the surprise element of grab bags ... and there's something especially fun about the assortment of random bits from SWM: "How can I make use of this oddball base / terrain bit?" Basically, the story behind the "Bag o' (Crud)" (that's not what it's actually called, but Wendy would be disappointed in me if I used that word in casual conversation) is that it's a bag of whatever assorted bits are on hand that aren't quite up to Secret Weapon Miniatures's usual production standards -- so there might be some bases with warping, or bubbles in the base near the edge, or breakage, etc. I also notice a lot of variation in resin color, so maybe some are the result of testing out different resin types for casting. Sometimes the bases show no discernible flaws at all, but that might simply be because he throws in a few random spare bits to fill out the bag if there's not enough "trash" around. In particular, I got some more "Shattered Ritual" bases of assorted sizes and styles. (I got a big oval "Shattered Ritual" base, and actually bought one 120mm round-lipped "Shattered Ritual" base last Black Friday circa 2018. I thought I could use the latter to base an Iron Kingdoms mini project, but never got around to it, as the campaign had already ended, and noises about possibly starting it up again got well snuffed out.) I *love* this style, even though it's rarely a fit with the sorts of games I typically run. Basically, each base has an intricate collection of "magic circle" designs with a ruinous look, like some wizard's tower had circles-upon-circles interlinking with each other, and then SOMETHING WENT HORRIBLY WRONG. (And thus the "shattered" part.) The surface of the flooring is fairly smooth, but with lots of finely scribed detail that would be a pain to try to paint out by conventional means. However, I found a method that works for me: 1) Spray-paint it with white primer, right out of the bag. It seems as if there's just a tiny bit of residual mold release that collects in the "scribed" areas (or perhaps there's some other "surface tension" effect taking place), and the end result is that the paint tends to collect on the flat, top surfaces, but DOES NOT pool into the sharp scribed lines, so this actually *brings out* the detail more. 2) Once it has fully dried, I smear the surface, section by section, with Apple Barrel paints "Pewter" acrylic, then wipe it off, allowing the paint to "stain" the surface and especially the recessed areas. "Pewter" is a strange "dirty grey" color that has an ever-so-faintly yellow-green shift to it. It ends up turning the white-primered surface into what looks (to my eyes) something like aged porcelain, with a faintly grimy yellowish tint to the surface, and a dirty-grey "stain" that brings out the scribed lines. Sometimes in the course of wiping off the excess, I will catch some of the paint in the recesses, so I go back later (after it has dried) to do some touch-up work where needed. 3) I apply some brown wash to the exposed "ground" areas where cracks between the "magic circles" have given way. If some of this brown splashes onto the surface, I just wipe it away, and any resulting "stain" just adds to the grimy effect of the ruins. 4) Using a fine liner brush, I trace the thicker border lines around the circles with Golden Yellow (not a particularly BRIGHT yellow), and then go back with a very little bit (at a time) of watered-down Pumpkin Orange to tint random parts of the golden-yellow for a little color variety. (Burnt Sienna would probably work well, too.) 5) Also using a fine liner brush, I go in and do some spot tinting of some of the circles, symbols, and other shapes (but not all!) with various pastel or otherwise reduced-saturation paint colors (Barnyard Red, French Blue, Denim Blue, Pewter, Olive, etc.), slightly watering down if necessary, as I want a *hint* of color, not solid, garish spots. It's perfectly fine if the colors are "dirtied" a bit, or the coverage isn't complete, since a bit of *wear* would be appropriate. Here's "Fiametta" (Soda Pop Miniatures - "Relic Knights" - heroine from "Doctrine" faction) painted up and based on the rounded-lip "Shattered Ritual" base I got from the latest Bag o' Crud ... on top of the oval base I got in last year's Bag o' Crud ... on top of a Tablescapes "Forgotten City" tile set. "Doctrine" is basically this faction centered around a "magical academy" in Relic Knights, so the "mook" forces are a bunch of magic-school kids (boring looking guys in school uniforms, and girls in really short skirts, all waving wands), with most of the heroes either being "teachers" or other "staff" at the school, plus a few special "graduates" ("mahou shoujo" types, mostly). The faction color is yellow/gold, so I used it for the base rim, and also used it as a recurring element for the magic circles on the Shattered-Ritual bases.
  4. Since Bryan has shut down the Basius 2 Kickstarter thread and asked that we continue any discussion with how to use these Stamp Pads in the Craft Section. I've opted to go ahead and open this thread. This is a group/open thread for us to learn how to use our pads and obtain best practices with all the different kinds of basing materials that are available to us. Please feel free to share how you did something (with pictures) and what material(s) you used. Keep off-topic chatter to a minimum so that the thread doesn't get out of control. Most of all... Have fun! First off, the pads that were in the Basius 2 Kickstarter Pad 01 - Imperial Pad 02 - Mountain Pad 03 - Sanctuary Pad 04 - Kings of War Pad 05 - Hex Pad 06 - Plaguelands Pad 07 - Elven Pad 08 - Warpath Pad 09 - Dungeon Pad 10 - Battle Zones
  5. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/416262521/scenic-resin-bases-for-28mm-tabletop-wargame-minia?ref=discovery After a successful 1st kickstarter project earlier in the year I am back with a second. This time I am looking to extend my existing range of 28mm scenic bases with 3 further lines. I already make bases as part of my business and have paved bases, lava bases etc. along with various bits of terrain in my range already. Moonkraft is a fairly new start up and I am looking to add many many more goodies to what I already sell. I have a brain overflowing with ideas, the only trouble is deciding which to do 1st. If you are like me and are a miniature painter and gamer, then you already know that a good base will give you miniature the finish you want and can really make or break a good bit of painting. Also this bit of modelling can be a little tedious and time consuming and if you are painting a new army those minutes soon add up and turn into hours. I have created 3 new sets of bases, Rocky outcrops, Skulls and Rocks and my personal favourite Atlantian Temple Ruins. I need to raise just £500 for the moulding costs to produce all 3 of these sets of bases. which I will add to my growing range of terrain and bases. The bases were sculpted by myself and I have made them in 3 sizes, 25mm, 30mm & 40mm so they should fit all the sizes you require. The pictures don't do them justice. 25mm Temple bases 30mm Temple Bases 40mm Temple Bases 25mm Skull & Rock Bases 30mm Skull & Rock Bases 40mm Skull & Rock Bases 25mm Rocky Outcrop Bases 30mm Rocky Outcrop Bases 40mm Rocky Outcrop Bases I do things the old fashioned way, no 3D printing or computer software, I build and sculpt, then I make moulds, then I cast. If necessary there may be a 2nd mould made to improve casting after any adjustments have been made, but this is a rarity as I am an old hand at the process. The funds will be used for the silicone to make the molds (the expensive bit) and also go towards the resin. Postage. We will be shipping the set out as soon as the funds come in and the prices are set to the following 3 zones: UK, Europe & Rest of World. Prices are based on Royal Mail to calculate the cost.
  6. This is another clix project. I picked up a bunch of plastic figures for cheap, cut them off the original clicky base, and made new ones. The bases are by Reaper, turned over and filled with putty and then stamped. Simple base coat and wash and those were done. A few of the figures got paint touch ups to clean them up and bring them all together in a blue and black color scheme. They've been sprayed and are ready for the table.
  7. About this project Because the best bits of your miniature collection are the bits you sculpt yourself We want to put a special BASIUS COMMUNITY pad in the hands of every tabletop gaming club in the world Since launching our first BASIUS Kickstarter project (now known as BASIUS ONE), thousands of gamers have used BASIUS to aid & develop their sculpting skills as well as customise & awesomify* their miniature collections. During this time we have had to move BASIUS out of the garage and into the Industrial Estate! The BASIUS team has grown since then, and now includes the same family of four sculpting gamers that created BASIUS all those years ago and the family of experienced casters at History Craft. We now have ten complete collections of 12 themed 50mm square BASIUS pads prototyped. Some are favourites from previous Kickstarter projects, some have been altered and updated, and the rest are brand new. We need your help to fund their creation on an industrial scale! COMMUNITY Community is important - in gaming, just like in the rest of life. We love gaming with our friends in our local geek-hobby store and we initially met many of our friends purely because of that community. Friendly gaming clubs and hobby stores that go out of their way to host gaming communities are awesome, and we want to help to increase that community awesomeness. Kevin Jackson, from the online community, sent us this photo showing how he based his miniatures using BASIUS It stands to reason that if a person wants to do something positive for others in life then it's best to do something they are actually good at, and feedback from all four of our previous BASIUS projects has shown us that we have become rather good at BASIUS-ing**. OUR GOAL With this focus of community being central to what BASIUS has become, our goal for this latest Kickstarter is quite a big one... Alongside the release of our 10 themed BASIUS collections, we want to provide every tabletop gaming club in the world with a special BASIUS COMMUNITY pad, so that all gamers can use it and help each other to use it, to develop their own and each other's sculpting. WE NEED YOU It would be awesome if every gamer & hobbyist reading this... in every town worldwide, could pledge to get hold of a pad or two in this kickstarter, make some bases with them, show their sculpting to their gaming club and ask their club chairperson to contact us to get a BASIUS COMMUNITY pad for their club. Tyler, from the online community, kindly sent us this photo. These base textures are made using just BASIUS, 'Green-Stuff' and paint - thats it.
  8. Do you still sell the box of 250 square smooth bases? I bought one a while ago and it's almost empty. I looked on the site but I can't find it anywhere. I even tried looking up the sku on the box I have. Thanks.
  9. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/wamp/fusion-bases Fusion bases offer a quick and easy way to create great display quality wargaming miniature bases and plinths with little effort.
  10. About this project NOTE: Additional sizes are coming. Such as 30mm, 32mm, 50mm and 120mm. There will also be more themes as the Kickstarter moves along. So many ways to paint these Bases. I can't wait to see what you come up with. - Add-on's stick well (Skulls, tuff, grass, and more) -No need for pinning. Glue works amazing. -All primers that I have used work great. -Can be magnetized. -Can be stripped if you want to repaint. Careful on what you strip with though. -Can be mounted on elevated surfaces (if you want to build a bigger base) -Green Stuff and other epoxies stick well, but stick great after primer. BE SURE to check out the Stretch Goals
  11. So, finally getting started on some of the ideas i had from the replies in my last post and some techniques that will be BLATANTLY ripped off from posters of said ideas (thanks and sorry in advance Pingo if i butcher your technique in the tweaking of it). For our campaigns end game battle i found a model i thought would fit the bill. Its base has some almost rune patterns that i wanted to pop and be seen. i'm not looking for lava because ... that doesnt fit to me with something that has been "summoned", but i want high contrast of what i'm sure will be the stone floor of the secret chapel deep inside the high lord of the city's keep. Dry brush seemed like a good way of doing it but i am a time pressed individual so i was looking for a way to do that at faster pace than with a brush. i thought high density foam roller... but that wasnt right for the surface but i picked up some cheap foam brushes from Walmart tore off the side down to a manageable width and went for broke... dont think it turned out bad so far. I still intend to make the higher stones actually look like the stone floor than the blacked charcoal they look like now with some dark grey - white transition. But i think i will leave the charcoal look for the lower more central... not completely sure yet. My biggest issue is still knowing when the hell to STOP applying... someone once said "paintings arent finished, they escape" and so far i dont think any of mine have got out in time. Next up in this trial run is a wizard mini for my son that i want to try Pingo's initial priming technique on... this should be interesting
  12. Anyone have any tips for making good bases for miniatures?
  13. So I have Kahnjira and it's slowly coming together my big problem though is it just will not stand straight up on the base. Whenever I attach the model to the base it just tips over. I've tried boiling the base to make sure it was flat and as far as I can tell it is as flat as I can get it. So my question is, is there a way to use something to put up under on the inside of the base or something to mount the base to that will help? Any suggestions as to what I might use to do either of these is greatly appreciated as well.
  14. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1701708364/warlocks-tower-wargaming-bases Calling all wargamers! We’re introducing a brand new range of scenic, plastic bases for round-based wargaming.
  15. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/dragonforge/oakk-wood-floors-base-sets?ref=category_newest Dragon Forge Design Brings you a new set of Wood Floor Round Lip Bases . Includes 30, 40, 50, 80 and 120 mm sizes plus Heroic Sets.
  16. More from the Memorial Day paint binge challenge. These are made by Scibor and I thought they were cool just by themselves. I painted them up to use as scatter terrain or objective markers. The bases are 1" square.
  17. In a gaming Facebook group I'm a part of, someone asked a question - do you prefer plain black bases, or detailed terrain bases? The question seemed obvious to me. When I started painting miniatures, bases were either broccoli or square, and a plain black base was looked at as an unfinished base. At the very least you sanded and drybrushed or flocked them. The answers in the group surprised me. Out of dozens of answers, the overwhelming majority preferred plain bases. They felt that detailed bases took away from the miniature, and that it was counter-immersive to be playing a game and have a dwarf with a snow base, and elf with a forest base, and a fighter with a desert base wandering around in the same stone floored cave. It was also notable that the vast majority preferred round bases. Some of those that did didn't just prefer them, the vehemently hated square bases. I wonder if some of the change in views on bases are a result of the popularity of the pre-painted D&D minis line over hand painted miniatures over the past decade? Anyway, it was an interesting enough discussion that I thought I'd bring it here and see what people had to say.
  18. This thread is a place to share images of and ideas for materials to use on bases and dioramas. Remember, no commercial links. The goal is to share ideas and show what we have on hand. INDEX Aryanun's photo of basing supplies. George's flock and grass thread.
  19. I've had a few people asking me about how I based my Bones in my W.I.P. thread, so tutorial time! Although this is a tutorial, I'm still new to the World of minis and mini painting and basing myself, and this is just things I've learned through tinkering and looking at things other people have done. You may have a better way of doing things, this is just how I've been basing my new Bones minis. I have two tutorials here, one for basing Bones onto pre-made bases with pins and one to incorporate the existing broccoli base onto a plain plastic base with green stuff. Pinning Bones onto pre-made bases: You will need: - Wire cutters (or something to cut the mini off of the base) - Push Drill / Pin Vice - Tweezers or Pliers - Sharp x-acto knife or scalpel for cleaning up the last of the base from around your mini's feet - Super glue - Thin wire or paperclips - Bones minis - Pre-made bases. I used some Micro Arts Studio 25mm resin bases - Sharpie Start by taking your wire cutters and cutting notches around the broccoli base, this will make it easier to trim off without damaging your mini's legs. I save most of my Bones base off-cuts, because I've found it handy to use as rocks and other things. After you've removed the bulk of the base remove the stuff in the middle. Don't worry if there's still a bit of base stuck to their feet. The feet are a bit messy, this is when you take your very sharp knife and gently clean up the edges. After I clean up the sides I'm often left with these big heels, to remove those I carefully insert my knife just under where the feet end and slice. Now we have nice clean feet! Drilling time! Take your time with this, keep pulling your drill out and cleaning the plastic out of it before putting it back in. The legs are very bendy but you shouldn't have too much trouble drilling a 2 - 3mm deep hole in each foot. Be careful to drill from where you know the drill can go up the leg, the last thing you want is to drill through the top of your mini's toes. I cut 2 5 - 6 mm long piece of wire to go in each foot. I know many people put a strand of wire in first, then cut it. It doesn't really matter which order you do it in. Apply a single drop of glue to the bottom of each foot, and using your tweezers or pliers push the wire into the hole you've drilled half-way. To to figure out where the holes will go in your base! I place the mini on the base and mark with a Sharpie where I should drill each hole in the base. Drill the hole in the resin base where you've placed the dots. Put another dot of glue in each hole you've just drilled in the base and insert your mini. Sometimes you'll need to hold your mini in the desired pose for a few minutes until the glue is dry enough for your mini to stand up on their own. Sometimes you'll be left with a small gap like this where you can see part of the pin under the foot. If this bothers you you can cover it with green stuff. Filled-in with green stuff! Now we're all done! Your mini is now secured firmly on a pre-made base and ready to go kill some Goblins. Sculpting your own base with green stuff: You will need: - Green stuff - Water and lubricant of some kind for the green stuff. (I use water based lubricant, but stuff like Vaseline works well too.) - Super glue - Sculpting tools - A bumpy rock - Bones base off-cuts or kitty litter to be used as small rocks - Bones mini - Plain base I'm using a small Fairy Dragon for this tutorial, but you can use anything. If your broccoli base over-laps the edge of your plain base a bit, just trim off the excess. To attach your mini to the base, put a few drops of super glue on the base and hold your mini there for a few minutes. I haven't covered the slot here because we're be covering it over with green stuff when the glue is dry anyhow. Mix some green stuff. I find while I'm mixing the green and yellow parts together, it helps to occasionally dip it in some water to stop it from sticking to my fingers. Then roughly place the green stuff onto your base around your mini. Now clean up the green stuff a bit more. When using sculpting tools with green stuff, dip them in lubricant first before applying them to the green stuff! If you don't your tools will stick to the green stuff, and you'll often end up pulling more material off than you put down. After the green stuff is dried any excess lubricant around can be wiped off with a cloth, so don't worry about using too much or having your paint not stick. I've never had a problem. No need to be too careful here, since we're about to add texture with our rock. Take your bumpy rock and push it into your prepared green stuff in fast, random motions. We're not going for uniformity here, so turn your rock around and make as much of a mess as you want. Texture added! Sometimes if I want things more random and chunky, you can add more holes with toothpicks or the end of a pencil. Now add some kitty litter or Bones base cut-offs as small rocks and viola; you're done! When I sculpt my own green stuff bases I don't tend to be too worried about covering the entirety of the original broccoli base, since they usually have a nice texture to them any way. I like re-basing my figures for stability and because I like the look of them mostly. After your green stuff has dried you can all sorts of things to make your base more interesting; like more rocks, small leafy bits, the sky is the limit. Let me know if you have any questions, I'll do my best to answer them.
  20. Here are some cool PDF files for basing: News Papers, Magazines, Beer Cans, Waning Signs On page 55: more News Papers, Magazines, Cans, DVD's and others Oh, important, on page 54 you can see how you can make Coke Cans with a Q-Tip!!!! Different Police Lines and Warning Signs (does not work anymore) If you do know more similiar Documents or Pictures, please post them!!!
  21. almost funded.. 13 days left https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/poweredplaygaming/poweredbases-plugandplay-led-kits-for-minis-and-sc/posts Our kits make it super simple to add the effects you want. Just drill your holes, run your wires, and plug it in. No more soldering! No more electrical engineering. Just simple lighting options to make your pieces stand out without the headache. Got something that you’ve always wanted to light, but it can only fit a watch battery? We’re building upon our past successful LED launches, and filling the gap for small vehicle and model lighting kits. What Are You Offering? PoweredBase Kit Unwrapped PoweredBases are the first plug and play option for lighting small models that sit on bases of 40mm or larger. It works with your existing bases, so there’s no need to swap out all of your beautifully modeled pieces The basic kit comes with: Round PC Board with attached watch battery connector (battery not included) 3 single-bulb LED strings with pins attached Several LED Connectors Matching diameter concealer ring 3M Mounting Square Quick Start Guide Simply put, all you have to do is drill the holes in your model and base, route the wires and plug them in. We kept the connectors off of the wires, to ensure that you only needed to drill the smallest hole possible. Then you just stick the mounting to PC Board and base; and slip the concealer ring over to hide everything. The first size we're creating is 40mm round bases. You’ll be able to customize your color options to match your army’s color scheme. Currently, we’re developing Red, Orange, Yellow, Blue and Green LED strings but have the stretch goal to expand those color options. Hey all! We just got confirmation from Misterjustin at Secret Weapon miniatures for cost of the translucent resin bases. True to his word of finding an economical price point, we'll be offering them at $10 for a set of 5 bases - either round lip or flat edge. The only catch, is we have to hit our goal to make them available! You can up your pledge now, or wait to add on, but we have to hit our goal to make sure that we get everything out! Secret Weapon Bases lit with PoweredBases Want to get yours? Share and share alike!
  22. Every Friday night the family ... Grandmother (my mother), my family (me: 44, the fiancee, and my two kids: 22/20 yo), and my Sister's family (her: 42 and possibly her two kids: 19/10) ... get together and play board games (or dice games/card games). Last week after a two-night Talisman event where everyone was duking it out for the Crown at the end ... I decided to take the figures from the game home with me and set to work on them. So first, I dipped into my bucket o' tiles and ensured all of the figures were stabilized. Each of the included bases were warped in some fashion. So super glue and a few minutes resulted in: I left the original bases attached because these miniatures while nicely detailed are no where as sturdy as Bones and are smaller of scale. Hmm. I best get out Garrick of Scale for a comparison shot. Once they were all settled on their new plastic plinths it was time to merge original and new bases. BRING FORTH THE SAND AND BALLAST AND GREEN PUTTY! All of the bases received some sand to cut the distance betwixt base levels. The Ghoul who had a nice textured base received ballast to match the original base. Some will stick with sand, the Sage, and most will get at least some green putty to bring the bases more even. For most of the figures I plan to give their bases the look of their starting places. The Troll and Dwarf will have some larger rocks sticking up for the Crags. Most will get painted with grass mainly. Some few will have "cobbles" or similar treatments for the village or city. Perhaps a keg and a stool for the Tavern. However, whatever their scenery, I must keep in mind that the figures will be in a board game box and not treated any differently then before. Thus begins the journey to the Crown of Command. We'll see where it leads and which of these figures will fall to Death. Speaking of which ... where's the Reaper? *looks about* Damn, he's sitting over at mom's on the game cabinet. Yeah, we have the Reaper expansion. Figures involved: And of course:
  23. I've been considering different and cost effective means to base the 500 or so figures I am getting next month from the Bones Kickstarter. I have a ton of tile samples from an architect that cleared out their old stuff. However the majority aren't square or are smaller than 1" square. I have access to slate from sidewalks breaking apart around the neighborhood. Seriously. Got about 5-10 pounds of the stuff of varying thicknesses. Makes a nice display base for the figures. You can see it on my two posted show off miniatures; Stone Giant Warrior & Thornback Troll. But 500+ figures is a lot of bases. Okay so some don't fit on 1" square bases for use with fantasy games. But I did find a product that gets me a ton of bases for cheap. 5 cents a base cheap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F8T9B8 It's a learning aid. $19.95 for 400 one-inch plastic tiles. The colors don't matter, they'll get painted along with the figure. It's plastic so I can drill into it for pinning, etc. I am sure there are alternatives, but for the price and my Prime free two-day shipping I said, "why not?" Limited supplies are available, but for those of us who've bought in for multiples of the Vampire level it could be your answer to basing all those minis. Assuming you want to. Mine will be here Friday. I'll add one to my Bones Garrick or Barnabas when I get them and post a picture of it with notes about it.
  24. I did a rough tabletop paint job on this guy while I was building bases. I decided to base him up in an equally quick fashion, since I am not a big fan of broccoli bases. So, in the spirit of spreading what little knowledge I possess I will do a build along WIP on some quick and dirty graveyard bases. I will do two bases out of different materials, and I will list all materials and steps so anyone who wants can build along. You don't need all the materials I list, and you can make this work with pretty much anything you have on hand. C&C encouraged. Materials: Square or round base Super glue or Tacky Glue Acrylic Gesso Cork Baked Sculpey Popsicle sticks X-acto/craft knife/scalpel Paint Once all the materials are gathered up it's time to make bases.
  25. Loim

    Basing with Loim

    I agreed to show a couple of people how I build my not-quite-stunning bases during the con. If anyone else wishes to partake I don't have any problem showing as many people as are interested. I will be bringing my entire basing kit with me. I will try to bring a good amount of cork, and broken Sculpey with me. However, if you wish to do some putty bases (Green Stuff, Miliput, etc) please bring your own, since I have a limited amount with me. Also bring any bases you wish to use, since again I will only be bringing a limited number with me. I will be demonstrating on 30mm round and 1" square bases. I also have a fair few tools that people are welcome to borrow, given that they are all returned. This is not an official Reaper class, though I will be more than happy to accept payment in the form of hugs and shameless flattery. If you are interested your best bet is either to catch me, or better yet coordinate with Cutebutpsycho, since this is all her idea anyway.
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