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Found 3 results

  1. so.... I have an idea. Yes, my precious I do! Ahem. This is probably a crazy idea, but I wanted to take one of my favorite visual artist's work and apply it to my miniature hobby. First, a bit of info for those not familiar with art nouveau: Alphonse Mucha was a Czech painter with a really cool linear style. Feel free to Wikipedia him. He's fairly distinct. I happen to own a Mucha print book, which made it much easier to plot out my evil plan. The idea is to take one of his prints, create a demi-rond (like a flat only thicker and closer to a bas relief, and have it becoming more 3-D as it approaches the edges of the picture frame that surrounds it. I'll create fully 3-D elements within the frame as well. Then paint the whole thing. Hard to describe, but hopefully the WIP will get there! First, I spent a great deal of time trying to figure out which print I wanted to tackle. My main goal was something not too complicated, since I don't do a great deal of this type of sculpting. I suck at sculpting faces, and I've learned symmetry is hard. Have you ever noticed how sometimes the eyes in a given mini are different? Yeah. Mine would be even more different! So, in order to avoid the not-quite-symmetrical trap, I knew I needed either a profile or a 3/4 face, to make my stress level reasonable. After much hemming and hawing, I chose this one: See- look at all those nice lines! Such a friendly pattern to follow. Many paintings are softer, with less obvious transitions. I'd thought about using a Brom, but this should be easier, and since it's an ambitious project, I need all the help I can get! Then, I used my trusty book: I picked out a picture frame from my local hobby store, and the little cardboard backing is to the right in the above pic. It's the perfect size! Plus, it was on sale 70% off... I liked this frame because it had curly lines and looked organic, and my style is organic and I plan to do a bunch of vines and leaves per usual! So I printed out the Summer and darkened the copy to make the lines stand out more: I cut out an additional copy: ...And applied it directly to a rolled out slab of fimo. First, if anyone tries this again, a few fimo caveats. One, the stuff is firm! I bruised my poor hands kneading it. I may have to invest in a pasta machine! Two, I tried rolling it out originally on a styrene sheet and it stuck. So I had to peel it off, re-knead it (curses) and re-roll it out (used a spare rolling pin) and this time place it on a piece of parchment paper. It should be easy to sculpt on the styrene sheet to keep it flat and the parchment should peel off. Or I can bake it on the parchment and peel it off after. At any rate, if has a firmer consistency than my sculpey, so i'm hoping I can get nice hard edges, though my style is softer in general. The reason I put the cut-out on top is that I can use it to transfer the lines to the fimo. I used a pin tool (ceramics tool, similar to an industrial strength paint pokey tool) and presed it along each line, letting the clay pick up the impression through the paper: So you can see the lines- much easier to follow as I sculpt! Then I started sculpting! Hard to see with white on white, but the nice thing about these clays are that they are to some degree compressible. Which means unlike wood or plaster where I have to carve away, I can compress the edges to get the relief. I do still carve some away though. So, still in progress, but it's been fun experimenting with this. I'm hoping to make some more progress this weekend!
  2. Corporea

    Plant Tutorial

    Recently I added some foliage elements to my Narthrax. I'll share how I made them here! First, materials: For this, I only used the greenstuff, Vaseline and the purple tool Andy made for me. (Shameless plug for Andy Pieper's Sculpting Classes at Reapercon- take them!!) But, those are my favorite tools to use when sculpting in general. They are a pin tool from my ceramics set, a narrow flat wax shaper and two of the extra firm clay shapers. The plastic surface I use for this is the insert from the reaper paint caddy- the little dividers I always end up taking out to stuff more paint in when I travel! they make a nice surface when I'm mass-producing leaves. First, I take a small piece of greenstuff and flatten it into a leaf-like shape. Next, I use a tool to create a central vein Like so: Then I create the fern-like shape by placing the tool parallel to the surface of the greenstuff and pulling outwards. Almost a plucking motion, but not quite. It is much easier to do this step and get this effect when the greestuff is fresh. ie, as time passes after the mixing, I tend to change to a different technique and just cut tiny side veins in instead because the greestuff is not as soft and sticky anymore. I play around with different techniques to create different styles of foliage, but this was what I used for narthrax. So, here's the finished leaf. While it's still soft, I slide the tool underneath and curl the leaves up off the surface a bit in different ways to make them more organic. Flat is do-able, but I like to have curls and twists for realism. Leave some of the leaf touching the surface. Here are two completed leaves and a variety of flattened "blanks." See how some blanks curl one direction or the other? How some are shaped differently? This also helps create more realistic foliage. Plus it's fun making tiny leaf shapes. So, here are the leaves! Notice how a few are done with the cut veins and look different. And a sideways shot to show the 3-D effect. All unique! Next step- making the leaves turn into a reasonable plant form. Generally, I'm sticking these directly on a base, so I'll glue already hardened leaves where I want them and then add in fresh greenstuff on top to finish the plant. But here, I'll just demo and use a ball of greenstuff to hold them together. I stuck several hardened leaves on the flattened ball. I don't set them flat, but slightly angled. Then I add some fresh greenstuff and I'll turn it into smaller leaflets. And finally, a plant! Remember, I'm only sculpting one side of the leaves, so the flat smooth side needs to remain hidden. I cheat by sticking plant in a rocky bed and making sure I paint the underside of the leaf dark to avoid drawing attention to it. Also, If I really want a nice plant, I'll use the etched brass foliage because it is much thinner and I can shape it anyway I wish. You can buy etched brass from Scalelink ltd or Hasselfree Miniatures. I used the etched brass for Finari and the Green Witch. There's a big different in the delicacy of the leaves which is far superior to greenstuff in most cases. I've also used paper and wire to create leaves. Let me know if you all want any other specific plant types or whatnot. Thanks, and have fun planting!!
  3. Hey all, I'm trying to obtain some etched brass foliage. I've found the following useful information sites: Derek's site from his lizardman: Squadron Information from hasselfree, although I can't find that they sell them anymore... wait, I found it... here! The website hasselfree used: Scale Link And the Wampstore. After perusing them, I have a question about the scale. Scale link lists multiple scales- I want the 1/32 (gauge 1), right? I know that sounds like a crazy question, but I want to make sure I order the right stuff. Also, does anyone else have an etched brass hookup they want to share? Thanks!!!
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