Jump to content


Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'translucent'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Reaper Discussion
    • FAQs 'n Stuff
    • News
    • Reaper General
    • RVC: Reaper Video Channel
    • Chronoscope
    • Bones Miniatures & Legendary Encounters
    • ReaperCon
  • Craft Corner
    • Show Off
    • Painting Tips & Advice
    • Works In Progress
    • Shutterbug
    • Sculpting
    • Speed / Army / Tabletop Techniques
    • Conversions, Presentation, and Terrain
    • Mini Exchanges and Paint Contests
  • Reaper Games
    • CAV
    • Warlord
  • General Discussion
    • General Fantasy
    • General Sci-Fi
    • General Modern / Historical
    • Kickstarter
    • Off-Topic Rampancy
  • The Sandbox
    • The Gathering
    • The Playing
    • Fiction, Poetry, and Other Abuses

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 55 results

  1. Chris Palmer

    Bones 4 Translucent Ghost Pirates

    I recently painted a pack of passed-away pea-green pirates that you can practically peer through, and posed the party for some pictures. Pithy painting prose on the particulars posted for perusal: http://allbonesabout.blogspot.com/2019/05/ghost-pirates-bones-4-figures.html I ordered an additional set of the pirates so i could have a unit of 10 for gaming purposes.
  2. In a post Bones IV world there are lot more translucent miniatures in circulation. You may have had the same reaction I had, where I thought they were neat, but had no idea what to do with these things. Well, today was the day I decided I was going to try a few different experiments with painting these things to see what would happen. I did try an experiment once before with some purple translucent modes from bones 3, where I put a black wash over them. I was not happy with those results. They turned out looking opaque black with purple highlights from a distance, and translucent against a light or if you looked real close. Not a strong enough effect for table play. So this time, I did a bunch of research (mostly on this forum) and was told about using a clear coat and ink to add definition and maintain translucency. Looked good in the pictures, so I thought I would try some variations on that. First thing I wanted to experiment with was testing something I read here that said something to the effect of "the clear coat actually makes them more translucent, because it changes how they reflect light" so I thought I would try a matte clear coat and a gloss clear coat and see how they compared. The following are a very light black ink wash (from the Reaper Ink triad) and then Tamiya X-22 gloss clear (on the left) and Tamiya XF86 gloss matte (on the right). These models were not very translucent to begin with, but both coats did really make them appear more clear. The gloss was very shiny, had a distinctive wet look, and makes the model look like a clear piece of hard candy. The matte coated model appears to let about the same amount of light through, but is less reflective than it was before I coated with anything. With less reflection the model looks a little less ethereal, but also less like a plastic toy. I decided that I didn't want wet looking spirits, so I decided to go with a black ink wash and the matte coat. Here are those results: Much better than my last attempt, which were only transparent when held against a light. They are still reflective, but less than out of the box. I also tried a red ink instead and it had a very striking effect of red against the blue (the colors didn't blend at all like I thought they would) but it wasn't what I was looking for, so I washed it off. Here is a comparison of a painted and unpainted model: So really, I would say not painting them at all is totally viable. I like having the details show, but if they are ghosts, maybe it is okay that it is hard to see without taking a very close look. I also did a matte coat on some crystals (no ink) and it improved the translucency greatly, though it is hard to capture in a photograph. I learned I prefer that matte coat to clear, (but both are cool). Inks work well, where standard acrylics did not last time. Clear coats do make them more clear. and they transparent models look ghostly and cool already, so painting them isn't giving you that much really, if they are only intended for table play. maybe this information will be useful to someone. I wish I could have found it all in one place when I was puzzling over what to do and what to purchase.
  3. Doug Sundseth

    Wizkids Translucent Hell Hound

    Here's a WizKids translucent Hell Hound: Primed with gloss acrylic medium. Base colors with Badger Ghost Tints. Spine, claws, teeth, metallics, and eyes done with various opaques. Some black used to pick out details in the flames.
  4. odinsgrandson

    Lots of Arena Rex

    At this point, I've done enough Arena Rex that I should probably just dedicate a single thread to collecting them. So here we go.
  5. Metalchaos

    77636, Death Shroud

    Here's my 2018 Ghoulie Bag translucent smoky grey 77636, Death Shroud. I simply did a blueish highlight and painted the base on this Dark Heaven Bones model sculpted by Julie Guthrie.
  6. Metalchaos

    77096, Labella DeMornay the Banshee

    Hi everyone, here's a simple paint job on a translucent version of 77096, Labella DeMornay. This model was sculpted by Julie Guthrie. I painted it with green ink and acrylics.
  7. Metalchaos

    77369, Shadow

    While you enter the dark corridor leading in a gloomy room, you feel your strength slowly drains from your arms. You realize with terror that you are not alone here. Shadows dance around you and dark grimacing faces appear to torment you... Here's a translucent 77369, Shadow, Dark Heaven Bones sculpted by Dennis Mize.
  8. This past week I decided to paint the Kristianna figure from the Bones 2 "Heroes I" set. I had recently seem someone post online somewhere (was it here?) some figures they had done with the clear weapons from Bones 3 weapon sprues; where they had painted parts of the clear piece, and left others see-through; and I had decided I wanted to try something similar with this figure. I'm really happy with the results. For the full conversion and painting article, please see my blog: Kristianna Conversion
  9. kristof65

    77310: Water Weird & Tamiya Clears

    The next round of my experiments with Bones Translucents and the Tamiya Clears. The blue translucent Bones are not as receptive to the Tamiya Clears as the clear and purple are. First up, untouched. You'll note there are two here. That's because Reaper changed their color slightly at some point. The one on the left is the older color, the one on the left is the current one. The reason I post both is because my Water Weird done with the Tamiya Clear blue was done on the older color. All the other clears used the newer figures. First up is the Clear Blue: Here's my original Weird with the Blue, and the two untouched minis before I used the Clear Gloss on them: Here's the two previously untouched after I hit them with the Clear Gloss: With Clear Yellow. As you can see, unlike the purple of the shadow demon, the blue still shows through, meaning I got more of a greenish tint: Likewise with the Orange. It's rather ugly: And the Clear Red. I like this effect - it makes it look like blood. This water weird is going work well when paired with a demon: The Green came out well: Here's with the Smoke: Here's my four favorites - Blue, the two clear gloss and the smoke. These will work well together - all look like water, and yet are different enough that it will be easy enough to tell them apart: And finally, here is all of them together: Final assessment on the Clears and Blues - the Blue and Clear Gloss work well. The Green and Yellow will give a nice green, at least on smaller pieces, thinner pieces, I don't think it will work well for thicker pieces. Orange is ugly. Red works well on the Water Weird if you want some sort of Blood Weird. I'd avoid Red on the larger pieces.
  10. Howdy, Here is one of the slimes with different color glitter paper cut to the foot print... Kev!
  11. TripleH

    77098 - Spirit

    As a test of the clear paints, I am attempting to work on some of the green and purple translucent figures. Here is the Spirit #77098. I used the Clear Green for the main part of the body. The head and hands were done with Skeleton Bone & Sepia Wash. I'm not sure if I can call this done or if further detailing needs to be done with the "body". Suggestions?
  12. Howdy, Sh!t's on fire, yo!... Kev! P.S. This is fine...
  13. Howdy, Something stirs at the waters edge... Kev! P.S. Gurgle...
  14. I purchased the Shadow Hound in Kentucky and was painting bits of it while in the hotel. The initial plan for the mini was to paint half of it and leave the other half translucent. Now that I have a base coat and some colors on it, I'm not too sure. Perhaps if it was clear translucent instead of purple it could work? Please let me know your thoughts.
  15. Citrine

    Invisible Heroes

    All I did was cut off the integral base and glue them on painted bases from CMON. Another 4 done! Reaper Bones: Invisible Rogue 77449 Invisible Wizard 77450 Invisible Cleric 77451 Invisible Warrior 77453
  16. I'm getting ready to paint my Kyphryxis Dragon in the Translucent Bones, and wanted to test how the different colors of the Tamiya Clears looked on the Bones translucent material. So I picked up some of the 77306 Translucent Slimes. These are literally quick paints - I just slopped on the Tamiya Clear on each one. I'm posting them here not to show off, but for your convenience and reference. Warning - Pic heavy First off, a plain, untouched translucent Bones slime: The Tamiya Clear Gloss really makes the Slime translucent: The effect is much more noticeable when you see them side by side: Next, painted in Tamiya Clear Yellow: Next in Tamiya Clear Blue: Tamiya Clear Green: Tamiya Clear Smoke: Tamiya Clear Red: Tamiya Clear Orange: And finally, my actual test piece, which I'm calling a "Fire Slime". I will probably be using a similar scheme for my Kyphrixis: As you can see, the Tamiya Clears are really good at literally changing the color of the translucent Bones material, while maintaining the translucency. At some point, i think I'm going to try and pick up multiples of some of the other translucent colors, and do similar test pieces. I already know from the fire elementals that it will change the tones of the red/orange Bones.
  17. This will be the last of my experiments, at least until the Grey Ooze in Bones IV is released in retail. First off, as it appeared in the Burning Sphere ones - the Orange translucents are not as friendly to the Tamiya Clears as the other colors. Also, I didn't do a full color range test with this one. The only reason I did it is my FLGS had one in stock when I was there on Saturday. Again, I'll start off with untouched: The three of these here are part of my original experiments with Tamiya Clears a couple years back. I'm showing them all together, because I honestly don't remember which was painted with which. I'm not sure if there is one of each - Yellow, Orange and Red, or if I did one in Orange, and two in Red. The Red, Yellow and Orange clears do work fairly well with the orange Bones - I used them to tint my large fire elementals originally. But the tinting is subtle. Since I only had the one untouched figure to experiment with, I chose to see what the blue would do with it. Not real pleased with the results: It doesn't really retain the translucence, unless you hold it up to the light, in which case I ended up with a sort of purple splotchiness. I tried to get a shot of that, but it doesn't show up on the camera very well: Assessment of Tamiya Clears and the orange translucents - you're not going to get the nice color changing effects that the clear, green and purple Bones get. Stick with the Red, Orange and Yellow Tamiya Clears for these Bones.
  18. Next up in my Tamiya Clears experiments - the Green. The Green behaves much like the purple does, meaning that the clears can almost completely recolor it, if the piece is thin enough. First up, untouched: With the Clear Gloss. Again, it really brings out the translucence: With the Smoke. Out of all the colors I've tested so far, the smoke works best on the green. With the Green: With the Red: With the orange: With the Yellow. This one seems to have the hardest time with the green: With the blue: And all of them together:
  19. This one is cool, IMO. Ever wished that Shadow Demon came in a different color than Purple? Once again, presenting my experiments with translucent Bones and Tamiya Clears. Warning Pic Heavy First off, an untouched Shadow Demon: With Tamiya Clear Gloss: Untouched next to the one with the clear gloss: Tamiya Clear Red: Tamiya Clear Orange: Tamiya Clear Yellow: Tamiya Clear Green: Tamiya Clear Blue: Tamiya Clear Smoke: All of them, in all their glory: As you can see, the Tamiya clears can actually change the color while maintaining the translucency on the smaller and thinner parts. The only one that doesn't do this to the same degree as the others is the Smoke. Hope people find this useful.
  20. In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one. Reiterating how to paint translucent minis: Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought! From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints. So anyway: The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so: When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. I use Army Painter Anti Shine Spray for this. (I find all Army Painter sprays (and Vallejo acrylic primers for airbrush) work fine on Bones material, be aware that some brands are to be avoided as they will not cure properly and remain sticky). This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat. Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this. Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop. I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone. The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white. Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila. I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there. I opted for a relatively heavy stain. To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result. Kyphrixis (clear variant) Reaper Bones KS3 Translucent bones 125mm x 90mm oval base
  21. So I see a lot of people painting the translucent mini's like the slimes and grave wraith with Tamiya clear colors, but I do not want to have a second setup for their paint formulation, so I am wondering if the Reaper Clears (like 9099 clear purple) give the same effect? Would be nice to just go straight to the color instead of having to throw down a clear coat and then doing a wash onto the translucent mini's (like how I did my grave wraith). Any help or suggestions is appreciated.
  22. Dan Goodchild

    77310 - Water Weird

    Used Tamiya clear blue to coat the Water Weird and Reaper paints for the well and highlights.
  23. Dan Goodchild

    77310 - Water Weird

    So, I wanted to try my Tamiya clear blue on one of the Bones translucent blue elementals and I chose the Water Weird. So far, so good but I'm not sure how to finish it off from here. I'm thinking of trying to get a curly-wave-white-foam effect at the extremities but I'm not sure. What do you think hive mind?
  24. wdmartin

    Bones 3 Air Elementals

    I used Tamiya Clear Smoke as a base coat, then highlighted the edges with Misty Gray. A couple of Clear Red dots for eyes,some basic grass-plus-flowers on the medium one, and then sealed with Crystal Clear and glued 'em to their bases. Quick, easy, ready for the tabletop.
  25. My elementals. I'm going to need to redo a few pics for inspiration gallery submission, but good for now. These have only been cropped, unlike most of my pics. WIP
×