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07068 Landol Griswold, Human Wizard


MiniPainterDMan89
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4 hours ago, Grand Slam said:

Big week for this mini 🙂

 

Really interesting color scheme and particularly nice work on the cream-colored sleeves. His skin-tone is amazing...that face looks like it came right off of an old oil painting!

 

 Agreed. Great work on the shading/highlights... 👍

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This is great! I really like how he came out. Very specific question: I was trying to see how you achieved such crisp color separation (for lack of a better word) and noticed that you have often have a dark line between colors. The hat band and the rest of the hat, his hand and the staff, etc. Do you just put down dark base coats and layer up, leaving the dark color or do you come back and hit those areas with a controlled dark wash, or something else? 

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On 10/22/2022 at 3:14 PM, RogaDanar said:

This is great! I really like how he came out. Very specific question: I was trying to see how you achieved such crisp color separation (for lack of a better word) and noticed that you have often have a dark line between colors. The hat band and the rest of the hat, his hand and the staff, etc. Do you just put down dark base coats and layer up, leaving the dark color or do you come back and hit those areas with a controlled dark wash, or something else? 

Thank you all for your kind words.

 

I do usually basecoat the miniatures black. I usually start with the dark colors and paint up through the lighter colors.  I do go back and "black line" areas to separate them.  I do not use a dark wash to "black line" areas only thin black paint and a very small brush..

On 10/23/2022 at 5:49 AM, Samedi said:

Is that nmm or tmm? Can't really tell from the pictures. Outstanding!

It is both.  The bracers I wanted to be metal like say magical Bracers +3.  Used Scale 75 golds paints on them.  On the hat I wanted it to look like gold but not metal.  More like it was embroidery.  So, that was NMM using various Citadel browns and yellow wash.  

 

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4 hours ago, MiniPainterDMan89 said:

 

 I do go back and "black line" areas to separate them.  I do not use a dark wash to "black line" areas only thin black paint and a very small brush..

 

 

 Reaper's liner colors are specially formulated for this type of thing, as they contain a bit of extra flow improver...

 

Spoiler

 

   Different folks have different preferences for how and when they black-line - If you're not just priming the whole figure black, you can either roughly block in all your edges with your liner color first before painting the basecoat, which gives you the advantage of being able to control the width of the line by how much of it you choose to paint over, but has the down side of possibly being a bit obscured by later activity (washes, drybrushing, etc.), or you can do your lining after painting, which has the downside of requiring a great amount of care in order to not screw up things you've already painted.

And like a lot of other things, sometimes the timing and method of your lining is going to be determined by how hard the figure's sculptor made that particular area to reach with your brush... :rolleyes:

The important thing to remember is to think of the dark-line as sort of an enhanced shadow, or like the black outlines around things in a comic book illustration - it always goes on the "flat" surface (whatever is underneath the thing you want to make stand out)... If you're dark-lining a belt, the line goes above and below the belt, on the surface of the tunic or armor under the belt. If you're dark-lining around a bracer, you'd put one line on the figure's sleeve and another on the figure's wrist. Etc.

 

 Helpful Illustration

 

  It's a particularly useful technique when using a limited pallette or multiple shades of similar colors, and when figures are wearing lots of armor plates that are all going to end up the same color.

 

 

 

 

 

                                                      

 

Edited by Mad Jack
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