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Wreckmaster

reaper silk and satin

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For your dictionary: www.dictionary.com

 

As for more elaborate descriptions, well satins have more of a satiny like finish. Both silks and satins have a slightly transparent quality when used over other paints. That help?

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I think this was supposed to be a joke. I hope so.

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As for more elaborate descriptions, well satins have more of a satiny like finish.

No offense, but I don't think you can use a word to define itself.

 

I can't speak for reaper satin paints, as I've never used them. However, I do use Satin varnishes from time to time. A satin finish is a very low, mild gloss. It doesn't quite look glossy, but it has a little shine to it.

 

I'm still not sure exactly what Reapers silk paints are.

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I know on principle what they are, but does anyone here use them on minis and do you have pics of the final product? I would love to see how to correctly apply them when I get some in the future.

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This is what comes to mind, so if anyone can correct my thinking, please do. This is why I have basically never had use for such things.

 

Two factors have been mentioned, type of finish and transparency.

 

For finish, I've never had the need for anything but standard matte paint. After I finish a mini, I apply an overcoat for protection. I consider this to be a necessary step. Now, if I use a satin paint and then put Dull Cote on it, I've now turned it matte and have defeated the purpose of the satin paint. If I don't overcoat, then the paint won't last long and certainly can't be used for gaming. So, I've always used brush on varnishes. I can overcoat the mini and then selectively apply satin or gloss varishes to the areas that need them. These varishes in themselves are protective and the mini has already been coated. So, I see no benefit to satin paint unless I was not going to overcoat a mini, which I can't see myself doing.

 

As for transparent paints, how is this different from from heavily thinning with water and various blending and flow aid mediums? I can easily make a transparent glaze with my normal thinning mediums. Am I just paying for a prethinned color? Also, when I thin myself, I am free to create any shade I want. With transparent, or I should say translucent paints, I can only work with the more limited selection available unless I mix them with regular paints, which defeats the purpose of using a special paint in the first place. Am I missing something?

 

If anyone can shed light on this, please do. Thanks.

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Now this is just an educated guess based on my experience as a printer and working with ink but if you just thin a paint you are also deluting the pigment, a transparent paint would still retain the original color strength.

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The advantage of a transparent paint is that it would still maintain all of the binding qualities of a full strength paint, but be transparent. When thinning with water and other aids, you change the consistency of the paint. I think a transparent paint would simply be easier to work with, especially for beginners. It would probably also have some advantages with regards to brush control, when layering too, I should think...

 

Damon.

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As for more elaborate descriptions, well satins have more of a satiny like finish.

No offense, but I don't think you can use a word to define itself.

 

No, but I also am figuring that most people here know that a satin finish is only slightly glossy, therefore I felt I didn't need to define it.

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