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Some steel NMM:

 

Basecoat with 9066 Blue Liner

Highlight with 9019 Midnight Blue

Highlight with 9020 Twilight Blue

Highlight with 9021 Snow Shadow

Highlight with 9063 Ghost White

Final Highlight 9039 Pure White

 

Optional -- glaze with 9081 Pale Indigo.

 

Example

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I copied this from another thread, and thought it would be a good addition here. I'm changing the recipe posted elsewhere just a bit, with the addition of paint to the mix.

 

Don't forget your base coat for the metals. How you do it depends on how much time you want to spend layering. Mix 3 drops water, 3 drops gloss varnish (Vallejo is great but Plaid will do), one drop of DARK metallic, one drop dark paint and one drop of ink. For silver/pewter, use Adimantine Black, Pure Black and Black Ink. For gold/bronze, use one drop Scortched Metal, one drop Brown/Black and one drop brown ink.

 

There will be very little metal flake in this mix, but that's fine. Put a coat or two of this on the metallic areas and allow to dry.

 

If you want to be really over the top, gradually mix lighter metallics into your original color and layer up just as you would for any layered technique. If you are in more of a hurry, just drybrush from dark to light (such as Blackened Steel to True Silver.) Your metals will look far, far better than they would if you just glopped undiluted metallic paint down.

 

If you're wondering how I came up with this, here's the story. Last year I went to Gen Con and met Richard (can't remember the last name ATM). Richard had this fantastic way of layering metals. He would start with a very thin mix of inks and metal over black primer. There was very little metalic particle in the base coat. He would add in more, lighter colored metal and layer up. The end result was absolutely gorgeous.

 

Problem is, I don't always want to take that much time when using metallic paint. Also, I prefer to use a white primer. So I looked for a way to simplify Richard's method. The method above is it.

 

If you wish to try the more eleaborate method, start with more additive/ink/paint and less metalic. Layer up as you would in painting from dark to light using regular paints. Use lots of layers, more glazing than painting, and take your time. The end result is astonishing.

Edited by Cerridwyn1st
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Copied from a recent post I made on an NMM thread:

 

Basecoat a 5050 mix of Russet Brown and Palomino Gold

Darkest shadow Russet Brown

First highlight 75/25 mix of Palomino/Russet

Second Highlight pure Palomino...you may want to add a brushful of your previous mix to tone this down a little as pure Palomino is BRIGHT!

Third Highlight 50/50 Palomino/Clear Yellow with a drop of White added

Fourth Highlight keep adding white

Final highlight Pure White

If your gold is too yellow, glaze with Saffron Sunset to deepen and add compexity to the color.

 

For silver/steel, you can use any neutral or bluish greys, even some purple or greenish greys if you wish. The color should be mostly grey. Use Grey Liner for your darkest shadows and add Pure White in successive steps for highlights.

 

All NMM needs to go up to Pure White highlights. ::):

 

Hope that helps!

 

--Anne ::D:

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here's a new skin recipe I recently came up with:

 

Final(pop) Highlight: 1:1 of RMS Fair skin and Linen white

 

1st Highlight: 1:1:1/2 of RMS fair skin, Rosie Skin and a half drop of sunlight Yellow

 

Base coat: 1:1:1:1/2 of RMS Golden skin, Rosie Skin, Tanned skin, and a half drop of violet red

 

1st shadow: 1:1:1:1 of RMS Golden shadow, Rosie shadow, violet red and dusky grape

 

2nd shadow: 2:2:2:1:1/2 of RMS Golden shadow, Rosie shadow, violet red, dusky grape and a half drop of P3 Coal Black

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This is from a drow mini I'm working on at the moment. Little tricky to do, I haven't gotten it perfect yet, but here's a neutral drow skin.

 

Basecoat: RMS Ashen Brown

Highlight: Add Ghost White, then pure Ghost White

Shadow: Add Clouded Sea, then pure Clouded Sea. Then add Blue Liner to the basecoat and glaze that into the shadows. Then warm it up by glazing brown liner into the shadows.

 

Optional: highlight a point of pure white.

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African elephant skin(all colors are RMS colors unless specified):

 

Basecoat: 1:1:1 of shadowed stone, intense brown and weathered stone

 

Highlight: 1:1 of intense brown and weathered stone

 

Shadow: 1:1 of shadowed stone and intense brown

 

'Pop' Highlight: pure weathered stone

 

'Pop' Shadow: 1:1 of shadowed stone and intense brown and a tiny bit of P3 Coal Black

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Did I miss a recipe for albino flesh? I tried it once in my past. It worked well.

 

1. base coat pink

2. add white to pink and begin highlighting

3. add layers with additional white for each layer until you achieve pure white.

 

check it out

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8270529512/lightbox/

Edited by jdizzy001
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On 11/30/2004 at 1:14 PM, Gabe said:

Red Gems

Dark Flesh, Dark Flesh + Blood red, Blood Red, Blazing Orange, Fiery Orange, white dot (or bleached bone) for the light reflection. Scab red could be used in place of the Dark Flesh.

 

I wanted to try this, but couldn't find those color names, but I did find these:
Dark Skin, Blood Red, Burning Orange (assuming not Burnt Orange), and Fire Orange.

 

EDIT: These are probably wrong, after looking at the rest of the recipes, I believe these were all Citadel Classic Colors. I'll need to figure out the equivalent colors in Reaper MSP.

 

Edited by BeardedGamer
Better information.
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