Kheprera Posted December 31, 2002 Share Posted December 31, 2002 If you're desperate and the only lights you have in the house are those tungsten, yellow-cast houselamps, there is a solution. My recommendation for you, however, if you go this route is to use 400 or 800 speed film, as the filter is quite dark and requires more light than normal. Blue No. 80A: You will have to increase your exposure to compensate for the loss of light on this filter, and because light meters can sometimes be fooled when there is a predominance of a certain color, bracket your shots. Bracketing your shots is a good way to get at least one good shot that you can post, and here's how you do it: Say your camera is reading the light so that you're shooting at an f-stop of 8. Step up the f-stop and shoot the first picture at an f-4. The next shot at f-5.6, the third at f-8, the next at f-11, and the last at f-16. Some of these will end up darker, and some lighter, than what you intend, but in the end you will find a good exposure that works for you. Now, keep in mind that when doing this your depth of field will switch, too. Also, if you have Apeture Priority on your camera, your shots will all end up coming up pretty much equal (which is why I've always loved completely manual cameras.. you have more control over your shots) with only the depth of field changing. But when using filters, keep in mind that you have to be certain that the lights you're using are not the "natural light" ones or your colors will end up funky. This is also another reason I highly recommend a tripod. Longer exposure times will result in a higher rate of camera shake. Another note on filters. I highly recommend for ALL camera users (digital and film alike) to go get a UV filter for your camera if you don't already have one. The UV filter will block out some of the haze cause by UV light, and it also protects your lens from dirt, debris, and scratches and doesn't do anything to interfere with color or lighting. These are easily found just about anywhere for any size of lens and they're pretty cheap. I'll go on and end this post here, since I know I can go on forever. If there are more questions on filters and lighting setups, go on and post those here and I'll answer as best I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady Tam Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 O.K. So I am using those "reveal" light bulbs that claim they put everything in a natural light. Wrong! Pictures came out very yellow. So, will a high speed of film work? Or should I consider a blue filter? Hestiant on that because then things are too blue, which brings us back to film speed. Lady Tam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kheprera Posted February 18, 2003 Author Share Posted February 18, 2003 The higher your film speed, the more intense the yellow of those lights. I'd try a slower speed film and try to get some more lighting. If anything else, try and invest in an Ott-Light, which can now be found at most hobby or fabric stores. (Hancock Fabrics carries them I know). These definately have a "natural" light to them and will work a lot better. If you must use a higher speed film, then definately go for the blue filter and see how that works for you. In some cases you might not need such a strong blue filter, but that really depends on your lighting. Photo labs can correct for the yellow lighting (just don't ask a grocery store or Walmart to do it since they don't seem to know how). The problem with this is that the shadows and highlights will have a tendency to come out weird. Examples: Original Fixed for the yellow Notice how the shadows and highlights are almost too blue, and yet not all the yellow is removed? This is a common problem with higher speed film used to snap pics with indoor lighting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orsino Posted February 19, 2003 Share Posted February 19, 2003 Many high-end digital cameras have a "white balance" button, and are capable of correcting for tints in lighting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kheprera Posted February 19, 2003 Author Share Posted February 19, 2003 Many high-end digital cameras have a "white balance" button, and are capable of correcting for tints in lighting. True, but the question was in regard for film cameras. Also, those cameras have to be used properly. The above pictures, for example, were from a digital camera. Since they so closely resemble the problems of high speed film used with indoor lighting in film cameras, they make great examples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReaperIvy Posted February 19, 2003 Share Posted February 19, 2003 Many high-end digital cameras have a "white balance" button, and are capable of correcting for tints in lighting. True, but the question was in regard for film cameras. Also, those cameras have to be used properly. The above pictures, for example, were from a digital camera. Since they so closely resemble the problems of high speed film used with indoor lighting in film cameras, they make great examples. Digital camera or Web Cam? There's a huge difference in the picture quality between the two. The pose makes me think it's the latter. ReaperIvy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kheprera Posted February 19, 2003 Author Share Posted February 19, 2003 Actually I think it was a webcam, but I can't honestly be certain what she used. But webcams also have the option that was mentioned, at least I know my boyfriend's does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady Tam Posted February 21, 2003 Share Posted February 21, 2003 O.K. I have been using 200 speed film, Would 400 work better then? I am leery about going to 800 because of the "grainy" tecture that is so common in that speed. Lady Tam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kheprera Posted February 21, 2003 Author Share Posted February 21, 2003 O.K. I have been using 200 speed film, Would 400 work better then? I am leery about going to 800 because of the "grainy" tecture that is so common in that speed.Lady Tam Actually, with the improvements in film over the years, the grain isn't really all that noticeable until you start getting into enlargements. Also, that grain can produce some really cool results. Now, with that said, unless you greatly increase the amount of light you're using, I don't recommend higher than 200 speed film for shooting miniatures. Keep in mind that higher speed film is for two things: lower light situations and faster action. Since the miniature is static, you don't need a higher speed film to capture any action. For lighting, as long as you can get plenty of light for the film to accept for a good exposure, again you don't need that higher speed. I typically use 100 speed when shooting closeup, static scenes. In some instances I even used a 50 speed. The clarity of the fine grain and the eveness of the color, and the fact that it picks up less of the yellow cast by ambient light, for me, makes it a great choice. Again, I cannot stress enough shooting at least near a window where the outdoor lighting can help reduce some of the color cast that indoor lighting can produce on photographic film. Also, the Ott-Light is an awesome little gadget that helps as well. Another trick, and I know a lot of people advise against this, but I use a bounce flash. By using the diffused lighting of a bounced flash, I don't get the kind of glare from a direct flash, and I still get good exposures without massive shadow, and it takes care of that yellow cast like nobody's business. I'll never forget the first pics of minis I took. Black and white film, speed of 1600 that I pushed to 3200 (meaning that I told the camera it was 3200 speed film and not 1600 speed). Why did I do this? I wanted that grain effect. I'll see if I can dig out the pics from my tons and tons of pictures and scan them. They didn't quite turn out how I wanted since the photo lab I took them to (custom no less) didn't develop the film the way I wanted. *sigh* I'll have to try it again someday when I find the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady Tam Posted February 22, 2003 Share Posted February 22, 2003 O.K. will pick up a roll of 100 and see what I get. Thanks! lady Tam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crusoe the Painter Posted March 3, 2003 Share Posted March 3, 2003 I use 800 speed fujifilm. When I used tungsten lights and a blue filter, exposure times were on the order of several seconds... Then, I got a flash, and a diffuser hood that goes over it, and a cable so I can detach the flash, and hold it where I need it. Works great, since flashes put out color corrected light! That, and the Thru-The-Lens light meter on my Nikon, and I've never really had to bracket my exposures... -Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady Tam Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 O.k. why is it that sometime I get pictures that are too yellow, but another taken in the same location with the same lighting isn't? LadyTam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kheprera Posted June 3, 2003 Author Share Posted June 3, 2003 Hmmm. I'd have to say either 1) the lab color-corrected one and not the other or 2) the lighting conditions weren't EXACTLY the same. I'd have to see the actual pics in order to give you a firm diagnosis, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady Tam Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 Think I threw the bad ones away already. But they were taken one right after the other. I just picked one up and replaced it with the next one. Just started a "new" roll the other day. Will have to see how this roll turns out. Trying to keep notes on what I do when I snap the pictures so I can figure out what is going wrong. Lady Tam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kheprera Posted June 10, 2003 Author Share Posted June 10, 2003 If you're snapping them really fast, it could be your camera didn't have enough time to "re-adjust" to neutral mode, especially if a flash is involved. If the flash doesn't have time to regenerate, it won't give as great a power for fill. If you're not using flash, there are other things that can cause it, like the sun going behind clouds. :oo: If you are NOT in a studio setting, small factors such as someone else entering the room, the sun going behind the clouds, a light in another room turning on, even the tv flashing from commerical to commercial... all these little factors can change the color balance and lighting on film, which is why pros have studios with a lot of specific lighting and everything is set up in a static way. No one goes in and out all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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