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Glue


Morgramen
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I'm wondering what sort of glue everyone uses to assemble their minis?  Until recently, I've been using a brand called PM Hansen.  It bonds skin instantly, and comes in it's own plastic tube (secondary containment??)  

 

Anyway, I used this for many years to good effect, but when my first bottle finally bit the bullet, I bought a new one.  Same brand.  I used it a half dozen times perhaps before it turned into jello.  I assumed that perhaps I didn't seal it properly, and ran out to buy a new one.  By this time, the price had nearly tripled (now up to $8.75!), and used it ONCE.  It turned to jello sometime over the last few weeks.  (I tried to glue the arms onto my ogre last night.)

 

GROWL!

 

SO then I thought I'd try a $2.00 phial of Crazy Glue.  It wouldn't bond very well at all.  One arm seemed to stick fairly quickly, but the other sort of just got "tacky".  I may have put too much on however, but if anyone has tried Carzy Glue, do you have any tips?  The last thing I want is to have the mini shatter into pieces when I put it in play, and I can no longer afford to waste 9 bucks to glue one figure together.

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I have used Krazy Glue and other super glues and they do seem to be a bit brittle.  Using a super glue accelerant seems to make them a bit stronger though.  It works fine for me for display modles, but could cause a problem for table top pieces if they were dropped.

 

I have been using two part epoxy latley.  It seems to work fine, but it does take longer to set up.  I ususlly just prop up the mini so it doesn't move and work on something else while the epoxy dries.  I don't remember what brand I have or how much I paid for it.  I belive it was a fast setting type ( which means it is supposed to begin setting in about 5 minutes, but it takes about 24 hours to cure to full hardness)I got it at Lowe's or Home Depot and I don't think I paid over $5-$6 for it.  The tube should last awhile.  The only thing is that you can waste some of it if you just have one little piece to glue. I usually wind up throwing out some of what I mix up :(

 

I am still looking for the Perfect Glue. The one that only sticks where I want it, sets exactly when I want it to, and if I ever want it un-stuck it comes right off with no problem :D

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Try adding a very fine film of water to whatever you're gluing together, it mixes with the super glue and gives a really nice bond.

 

And since it's the easiest to get hold of, I use GW's superglue. Yes it's a tad expensive but with the water trick, a little goes a long way and it does glue stuff effectively (although not my hands).

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The BEST glue I've used is "Bob Smith Industries" Maxi-Cure.

 

They sell to hobby shops as a OEM. ( the hobby can send BSI a label to put over the bottle ).

 

It comes in a translucent squeezable bottle, with a metallic raspberry red label.

 

It's gap filling, has a good setting time ( not too fast or slow ) and bonds hard.

 

One thing, super glues bond best on freshly roughened surfaces. So use a knife point, emery paper, or a file to roughen surfaces before gluing. After I found this out, I rarely have glue bonds break anymore.... <:)

 

BSI also makes an accelerator called "insta-set" which has 2 good things going for it...

 

1) it smells like bad strawberry room freshener ( which is better than the dead fish smell of most accelerators )

 

2) it's safe on paint/sealer. So you can paint pieces seperately, then glue them together w/o worrying about the accelerator ruining the paint.

 

-Daniel

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I used Zap-a-gap a lot, now I'm using a similar grade cyanoacrylate, and then if I need stronger with more gap-filling ability i use epoxy glue, and for really bad gaps I use a hard-drying, sandable epoxy putty ( ie not Green Stuff).

 

Epoxy putty comes in a wondrous variety of hardness, fineness, and final properties (like sandable or not sandable). I was using some hardware-store stuff, but it comes packaged in such a way that you can't separate the two parts and over the couple of years I've had it it has gone quite stiff and has formed lumps. Now I use Milliput which comes in separate packaging and responds to water (it thins in water! Freaky!)

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I've used Zap-a-Gap as well and it does do a good job.  The best I have used though is SuperJet.  Never had any problems with that, but at least in my town it's become hard to find. Either way though you'll want the gel versions...the thin stuff is mainly for filling cracks, not bonding.

 

I also use a cyanoacrylate accellerator...the stuff I use is called Zip-Kicker.  The accelerators are very cool becase as soon as it hits the glue it induces a chemical reaction and the glue sets and hardens...no drying time.  If you use it though, be SURE you have your parts where you want them.   Another thing is at least for the Kicker it comes in a pump spray.  What I'll do is unscrew the top and use the lid and tube that goes into the bottle as an eye dropper.  Rather than spray a mist that gives you too much and onto everything, I'll put a drop right where I need it.

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Actually I should also add, I use a carbon based epoxy to fill my larger gaps in and to re-enforce and "pinning"/modifications I may make. The Zap-a-Gap (or a nother similar one I get from the hobby store) is about $ dollars and last a long time.

Lady Tam

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Superglue is worthless on anything but plastic or very small contact surfaces too hard to rig to stay in place while the glue sets: two-part epoxy is much better for every use, and depending on the exact type it even doubles as putty.
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Superglue is worthless on anything but plastic or very small contact surfaces too hard to rig to stay in place while the glue sets: two-part epoxy is much better for every use, and depending on the exact type it even doubles as putty.

Superglue holds things well enough in my experience and again I'll mention accelerator...when you use that there is no set time.  All you have to make sure of is that your parts are exactly how you want them before you add the accelerator.

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I have the Antagonists dragon that I painted about 10 years ago put together with superglue and I didn't pin it at all. No accelerator either. It has survived multiple moves, droppings and handling without a problem (except for the very bendable toes which are now weakened *sigh*).

 

I think a lot depends on how much glue you use (superglue doesn't require much to acquire a strong hold) and the material. If it's too porous, superglue won't hold it (which is why it doesn't work with material). Also, some materials it does react to, and those chemical reactions can cause some toxic fumes as well as melting things.

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Superglue holds things well enough in my experience and again I'll mention accelerator...

Not in my experience, and you cannot get accelerator in Finland where the potential national customer base for such products is maybe 3.

 

Anyway, for those joints I absolutely need the 5- to 30-second setting time of superglue, I don't mind holding the pieces in place with my hands. At times I even use a couple of blobs of CA on the sides of an epoxy joint to secure the joint while the epoxy dries. But in my general opinion, CA is worthless as an adhesive, and I've tried at least three different brands and at least two different types per brand. It just does not have any structural strength at all, when it comes to accidentally applying momentum to a joint - CA snaps off the second one looks at it funnily, epoxy holds.

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