Jump to content

Adding Soap


twjolson
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 10
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

For water to soap ratio...to prevent splotchiness...

 

Just a minute amount should do the trick.

 

Try this experiment to help "wrap your mind" around the concept. Once you see this in effect, then you might understand.

 

Take a brushfull of raw acrylic paint. Lay it down on your palette from your brush.

Now, take 5 brushfulls of water and add them to your paint on the palette.

 

You should have a nice, milky paint puddle.

 

Now, dip a #1 brush into a drop of dish soap. Place that amount of soap into your paint mix.

 

Marvel as the paint flows and is moved by the molecular change.

 

If you really want your surface tension to go away, try yoga...I hear that's great for tension! ::P:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can anyone give me a rough idea of how much soap to add to water; say for a cup of water or a liter or whatever?

 

And yes I know about other things other then soap to do this job, but I'm not asking about those.

depends on what you are trying to clean. Simple Green has nice dilution ratios for all kinds of things - carpet cleaning, glass, etc. ::P:

 

As for something to add to paint or inks (especially for washes) buy some acrylic flow release. It is available at art supply stores and some craft supply stores as well (I found some in my local Michael's while looking for Pink Soap brush cleaner, but no one there could find it when I was there actually trying to buy some a few months earlier. There are several brands to choose from - W&N, Golden, liquitex, etc.

 

Soap is not made to go into paint, and therefore will probably have all kinds of unintended side effects - the severity of which will be directly proportional to how satified you were with the paint job up until that moment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Reaper User

This is beyond weird, because I was just doing some research for the Reaper Painting Guide (it's only a rumor, mind you, might not happen at all, but if it does happen it might be showing up sometime toward the end of 2005...but you didn't hear me say that, can't prove a thing, really.), and I came across this weird fact...

 

Actually, soap *is* meant to go into paint. ::D:

 

Well, okay, not really. But (here's your useless trivia fact for the day), surfactants (which are a major ingrediant in soaps and cleansers) are what are used to get pigments with different chemical properties to bind together--like, if two different minerals and an organic compound make artists' Prussian Blue, surfactants are what make those compounds play nicely instead of resisting contact. So it's not surprising, in that light, that dish soap makes an okay flow improver if you can't get the other stuff--it's the surfactants in it that break the surface tension. Flow improvers, I suspect, are surfactants without all the additional junk that goes into dish soap added. It's the additional junk (colorants, sudsing agents, perfumes) that go into dish soap that keep it from being ideal, but okay in a pinch. ::):

 

My brain is full, I'm gonna stop now, it's too early in the morning for chemistry on the Painting forum. :;):

 

--Anne ::D:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Flow improvers, I suspect, are surfactants without all the additional junk that goes into dish soap added. It's the additional junk (colorants, sudsing agents, perfumes) that go into dish soap that keep it from being ideal,

Flow Aids are indeed surfactants without all the extra junk you find in soaps and detergents. I never could figure why people are so rersistant to using products specifically designed for painting. I'd rather use Flow Aid than dishsoap and Glossy/Matte Medium than Future. Strange, eh!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's wrong with Future? Its an acrylic clearcoat. It doesn't matter if you put it on your floors or your mini, it still does the same job. Besides, some of the top modellers in the plastic model hobby use Future in their projects.

 

UNless you're talking about using Future as an additive to washes or paints, at which point I agree.

 

Damon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

UNless you're talking about using Future as an additive to washes or paints, at which point I agree.

I think he was. For awhile, it became very popular to add a little future to your thinning mixture and for washes to help reduce surface tension. It acted very much like a flow improver, but not as good are a real flow improver, IMO.

 

Why do people do this? I guess it would be to save money. Future is very cheap. Dish Soap is cheap too and most people already have it in there house, so they don't have to go out and buy. I understand saving money when and where you can, but at the same time many flow improvers are pretty cheap. I think you can pick up a Folk Art flow improver for like $1.

 

I can't really comment on how effective Future is as a top coat. As a floor shine and protectant, I'm not sure it was designed to be permanent, but maybe. My only issue is it is may to shiny. I'd have to spend a lot of time putting Dull Cote on to get it flat. Since I don't have an airbrush, I'd have to hand paint the future. It's just easier for me to use sprays.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't really comment on how effective Future is as a top coat. As a floor shine and protectant, I'm not sure it was designed to be permanent, but maybe. My only issue is it is may to shiny. I'd have to spend a lot of time putting Dull Cote on to get it flat. Since I don't have an airbrush, I'd have to hand paint the future. It's just easier for me to use sprays.

Future can be removed using Ammonia. Unfortunately, that'll probably remove the paint too, or do bad things to it (like react with the pigments, etc). As far as permanency goes, its an Acrylic clearcoat...it's about as permanent as such products from Polly Scale, Testors, GW, Reaper, etc. Since I switched from using Testors Glosscote in the can to Future I find less instances of paint rubbing off...very tough stuff! Very airbrush friendly too, which was a major factor for me.

 

I personally use the shinyness to my advantage, leaving things such as plate armor and metals glossy while dulling other areas. Plus it provides a visual reference so I know the figure is fully coated or not. Finally, if you use decals they should always be applied over a glossy surface.

 

Damon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...