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Figure Holding


Santini
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We hot-glue them to wooden paddle-spoon things (like come with single-serve cups of ice cream), from the local Hobby Lobby. Their web site (URL below) shows them as $2 for 75, I thought they were about half that in the store, shrug.

OK, I'm not a Hobby Lobby Employee, but where I work at Michaels we have price regions. It may quote one price on the website, but depending on where you go in the Continental US or Canada you might find a different price on the item. For example, all of Canada is currently one price region. Most of the Eastern US is another region and so on. I'm going to say a lot of companies do this. What they charge in one store to another is going to vary on the cost of getting the product to the store, and the cost of living in an area. Last year near this time I was on a trip to some stores down in Long Island to help with a large project. I found that pricing there was higher on some items than back here at home. The reasoning? Tolls on the bridges to get to Long Island are phenomenal. I had one driver telling me he refused to do another load to Long Island after he was charged $60 to cross one bridge. (That's a total of $120 round trip.) Long Island is also a very affluent area. The cost of living down there is huge. Many stores see the cost of living as a reason to jack up prices. So my advice if you don't want to pay what a store may be asking for something, is to shop around.

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As an addition, yesterday we were at the local Hobby Lobby, and saw mini-size hot glue and cool glue guns for $1.99 each at the checkouts. We picked up one of the cool glue ones, and a bag of extra sticks for a whopping 77 cents, to give it a try. Works, and fits in the toolbox more politely than the big glue gun. In the back of my head I had the idea that cool glue is a little more flexible and weaker than the hot glue, we'll see when it comes time to get a plastic base off of a stick.

 

The trick is to hold the glue gun point on the underside of the mini for a few seconds so that it warms up, and the glue doesn't cool and set instantly or contact with the cold metal.

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The trick is to hold the glue gun point on the underside of the mini for a few seconds so that it warms up, and the glue doesn't cool and set instantly or contact with the cold metal.

Hey, that’s a good tip! Thanks!

 

After testing out several idea I like the dowel rods best. They’re easy to hold, but don’t get in the way when I’m painting the underside of things.

 

The minis with slotted bases are no prob, I just cut a slot in an oak dowel and pry it open with a screw driver and let it pinch the base.

 

But I was having problems with flat based ones, I was trying to hot glue them to the rod, but a lot of them were just falling off.

 

I’ll give the preheating the base a try though. I’m sure that it will make a difference.

 

Thanks all for the advice!

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I base my mini and then glue it to my patented Mini Holding Device: A small square of cardboard stuck to the top of a card tube - the type you might find in a roll of paper towel (or even... ehem... a "small" roll of paper towel is you know what I mean). I have another small square of card stuck to the bottom to allow it to stand up unassisted. I just like the dimensions of the card tube - very easy to hold for long periods and lightweight as well.

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Santini,

Hot glue a bottle cap to the top of a dowel. Then use poster tac, to stick your mini to the bottle cap. Works great. The poster tac doesn't seem to stick as well wood to metal as it does metal to metal. As long as you don't wave the mini on a stick around like it's a magic wand, it will stay in place for all your painting needs. Just make sure when you put down the sticky tack that you knead it in your hand for a few seconds to warm it up and make it sticky.

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I've tried the sticky tack and couldn't get it to work at all.

 

Then I found some wooden spools of ancient thread (great-grandmother's), took off the old, rotting thread and violá, instant mini holder.

 

Also, for the slotted minis, I used some wood-carving tools to put notches in some of the spools to hold the slot part. They are lightweight, come in a variety of sizes, are easy to hold, and stand up well (not to mention they were free). Just a little white glue (Elmer's) and I'm set.

 

I haven't tried, but you could also saw them in two and have two instant mini holders (but I've got plenty as it is).

 

Old plastic film cans also work. I use superglue for those, though, and even then the mini will have a small tendency to come unstuck.

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A 1-1/2 PVC FA---1.00

A 1-1/2 PVC PLUG--.60

A Large Cork--.50

 

Screw the 1-1/2 PVC Plug into the FA---this makes a nice ergonomically-sized gripping handle, that can be turned easily.

 

Superglue the cork to the top of this contraption.

 

Pin the mini to the cork.

 

This is a hybrid of Errex's solution. I just added a piece to give myself a better grip on the miniature.

 

This is the best solution I've found---

 

However, it requires that you pin the miniature.

 

I have found that if use extra long pins through the base, I can use the same holder to base my minis first, as opposed to later....and option I rarely use except when I'm working a sculpted base that allows me no other option.

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Another useful thing is if the miniature has an unstable base or you haven't attached one yet, put some of that foam stuff that blister packs are padded with (I know GW does this, not sure about others). I've got about 10 of them, and they're really useful to keep models intact when you aren't painting them.

Can't help with the other thing though. I don't really have that problem.

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The trick to poster tac/sticky tac goodness is to press the model down into a big glob and twist slightly.

 

I glue the model into/onto a base, and then I just tack it to a paint pot, the Iron Wind Metals ones that are a bit bigger and fit neatly in my hand. Occasionally the tac rides up the sides of the base, but you can pull it off quite easily. When I'm all done and have sealed my mini thoroughly, I either slide my knife through the tac or just slowly peel the mini back. To get the leftover tac off the base, just grab a blob of tac and press it against the leftovers and pick them up...sorta like using tape to get lint off of fabric

 

I've been using that method for a couple years now and I've never had problems. I love the ability to either leave the mini on the bottle or take it off and it's something easy to hold up and spray prime or seal.

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