Macro Focus Range

[twjolson]

I know what this means, Macro Focus Range, but what is a good number for it? My logic is that smaller is better, but not so close that the whole mini won't be in the picture. I half expect that it will depend on the particular camera; if so, can I at least get some ballpark numbers?

[Digital M@]

2-4 inches is good enough for miniature work, but you are right, lower the number, the better.

[Humansquish]

My cameras macro range is 2-50 cm. Don't know if this is really good or not, but I like it.

[Spike]

While being able to take a picture at close range is fine for almost-flat objects, you should also consider that a photo taken at the shorter ranges will have a shallower focus-field. What this means is that if your model has clothing or weapons that extend forward or behind the focus field, they will be very blurry.

 

The best way to get around this problem is to look for a camera that has a reasonably close macro-range as well as capacity to handle large-pixel photos. This will allow you the flexibility to make pictures of exceptionally three-dimensional models using a longer range and deeper focus field. This is also a good thing to take into consideration if you plan to be taking alot of pics of dioramas or detailed pics of your models in-game.

[Digital M@]

Spike, if I use the higher quality image (more memory) will it really make a difference for the size photos we are using? I ask because I always thought it only made a difference if you were going to be using the pics in a large print format.

[Kheprera]

Say you scan an image at 800 dpi for a 5x7 printed image.

 

It's going to be larger on your computer screen than a 300 dpi image.

 

So, the answer is, yes.

 

As far as close macro range and the depth of field, we've covered that in other posts already. As long as you've got control over your aperture, you're Macro focal length shouldn't be too much of a problem.

 

Now, if you're looking for versitality: 2-4 cm minimum with the ability to go up to 6 inches would be a good macro. Not only would you be able to get good images of your minis, but a diorama would be somewhat doable if it's not too large. Four centimeters to a foot would be excellent, giving you a good range and versitality, especially if you have control over your aperture.

 

Me, this is where I think manual film cameras shine, since you can add things like bellows, closeup lenses, and teleconverters to expand your capabilities. I've taken pictures of objects no larger than the head of a 28mm miniature and had that item fill the camera frame and still be crystal clear.

 

I wish... oh how I wish, I had that setup again.

[Spike]

The larger filesize is to allow you to take high-pixel-resolution photos from a further distance using more pixels. The photo can then be cropped to the desired pixel size, but unlike large images taken on lower resolution settings, the cropped photo will still have enough pixel density so as not to look grainy.

 

The only time I use the larger resolution settings to take the photos from further away is when I need more focus-field depth than I can get with macro or super-macro. It REALLY comes in handy when trying to get a close-up of a dragon's head without completely blurring the rest of the dragon.

 

This photo below was made with the largest pixel resolution taken from a tripod at a range of about a half a meter using the digital zoom. The bit of image that was left over after cropping was still almost 700 pixels wide, so no resolution was lost.

 

 

Faceless Horror is one of those models that takes the third-dimension to the extreme. When I made its pic using super-macro, no matter what I tried, parts of it were blurry (even at F 10, which is as far up as my camera's f-stop can be set while in macro-mode). In this pic, not only is the model clear, but the scenery around it is fairly clear too.

[claymoore]

Me, this is where I think manual film cameras shine, since you can add things like bellows, closeup lenses, and teleconverters to expand your capabilities.  I've taken pictures of objects no larger than the head of a 28mm miniature and had that item fill the camera frame and still be crystal clear.

 

I wish... oh how I wish, I had that setup again. 

I get what you are saying but digital SLRs work with all of those attachments as well. The Nikon D1X for example will easily fill the frame with the head of a 28mm fig.

 

With consumer cameras the aperature will usually only stop down to F10 granting minimal depth of field in macro mode. Spike's idea of increasing resolution, shooting from farther away and cropping is a valid method to get more of the model in focus. with F stop restrictions. If purchasing a digital cam with under 2/3 megapixels it would be more imortant to get a smaller minimum focus range like 5cm.

[Kheprera]

Yeah, but the cost of a digital SLR in comparison to a fully manual film SLR is about $1000 or more.

 

And I had not yet heard that you could use a bellows attachment with a digital, since so many of the digitals use auto/manual. Last time I used a bellows was with the long lost yet highly revered Pentax K1000.

 

I should have bought a K1000 when I had the chance. Had it on layaway and everything, but ended up paying for something else, instead. *sigh* I miss the days when you had to actually think when taking a picture.

[Demon]

Yeah, but the cost of a digital SLR in comparison to a fully manual film SLR is about $1000 or more.

Yeah.......best to be looking to buy a camera to take pictures OF a hobby and not to BECOME a hobby right now. At least not unless a really good load of money popped up. Otherwise to take regular old ma and pa pics stick to about the $200-300 USD range.

[eastman]

A lot of the accessories (like the bellows) won't work on the digi-SLRs since many of these cameras need the correct electrical contacts for automatic lenses. Most of my older K-mount lenses (used on my original K-1000s or my ME Supers) don't work on my current Pentax *ist D digi-SLR.

 

I was able to find a manual-focus only 100mm macro lens that works great on my camera. It is capable of greater than 1:1 on a digital SLR.

[Kheprera]

A lot of the accessories (like the bellows) won't work on the digi-SLRs since many of these cameras need the correct electrical contacts for automatic lenses. Most of my older K-mount lenses (used on my original K-1000s or my ME Supers) don't work on my current Pentax *ist D digi-SLR.

 

I was able to find a manual-focus only 100mm macro lens that works great on my camera. It is capable of greater than 1:1 on a digital SLR.

That's what I had figured since most of the bellows I have seen are a strange contraption with no electronic sensor arrays within them.

 

If anyone is curious as to what I'm talking about, a picture can be found here.

[claymoore]

I'm not advocating that anyone should purchase a digital slr system to make images of their minis.

BTW - The Nikon PB-6 bellows focusing system works on D series Digital SLR cameras like the D1X using manual or aperature priority for exposure and of course manual focus which is the point of using a bellows.

[Kheprera]

*sigh*

 

Another reason for the D1X.

 

The first being that all the lenses I already have for my N65 are compatible, which would save me money in the long run.

 

The second is that it's an SLR.

 

I just wish I had the money.

[Crusoe the Painter]

The D1s are supposed to be a pain to use ( In some ways, different enough from their film counterparts to be a little weird to use ). The D2H/D2X are good, and a bit more like film cameras. These problems are why Canon whooped their butt for a bit.

 

The D70, oh, the D70! Mana from heaven. $999 for the body, fantastic image quality, all around solid camera. One "problem", non-full size image sensor, so your focal lengths have 1.5x multiplier for non DX lenses. DX are Nikon's new line of D-SLR lenses that take this into account. One advantage is that lenses can be made smaller. My DX format 18-50mm has the same effective focal length of the pretty much standard 28-90, but is 60% of the size.

 

Quantaray ( Rebranded SIGMA for Ritz Camera ), Nikon, Tamron, and some others make DX compatible lenses. Most of your Nikon manual focus and AF lenses will work fine on a D70.

 

Now I just got to buy a CCD brush so I can clean the CCD, finally got some dust on it... :/

 

www.visibledust.net make a electrostatic brush for picking dust up safely off the CCD.