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Rastl

Airbrush + Primer = Happiness

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Hubby finally caved and gave me one of the airbrushes. I'll never prime a figure any other way again!

 

The even coat, the detail that remains, oh the joy!

 

Just sharing. ::):

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Hubby finally caved and gave me one of the airbrushes. I'll never prime a figure any other way again!

 

The even coat, the detail that remains, oh the joy!

 

Just sharing. ::):

I am trying to talk my wife ito letting me get one as well.. so far no go. but eventually I will perservere enough to get one and a nice compressor!! :)

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Welcome to the joys of the airbrush!

 

Pick up a bottle of Future Floor Polish and some Tamiya Flat Base, and chuck you glosscote and dullcote cans in the trash. Mix the Flat Base with the future about 1 part for 4 for a good dullcote that is fully airbrushable. Applied over a first cote of Future Gloss and your figure will be tough as nails (no need to thin the glossy Future either...spray as is!).

 

Damon.

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Pick up a bottle of Future Floor Polish and some Tamiya Flat Base, and chuck you glosscote and dullcote cans in the trash.

 

Lars, you just blew my mind. :blink:

 

I'm stoppin' at Michaels on the way home!

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Lol! Note to experiment first until you get comfortable with the mixes and ratios. Too much Flat Base causes the Future to gum up in the corners (plus you can "customize to get exactly the level of dullness you prefer...).

 

Damon.

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Yah... Rob/Jester primed a few figs for me last year...

 

This motivated me to wipe the dust off of my compressor and single action airbrush to prime many figures.

 

I used it to the point that it started making this "knock-knock-knock" sound. I thought I had blown it out, but it just needed some "time alone"

 

However, I really did like how quiet Rob's compressor was and thought his gravity fed dual action airbrush was kewl as well... Compressor/Airbrush envy?

 

To make a short story long: I've got an el-cheapo Iwata Revolution already acquired (to "learn me" how to use a dual action) and an Iwata Compressor showing up tomorrow (provided UPS cooperates).... Wheeee!!!!

 

The second use past priming will be to play with nifty camo-schemes for CAV.... wheee!!!

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Pick up some Windex to clean your airbrush with after you are done using the Future floor polish. :;):

 

You'll have the shiniest, cleanest smelling airbrush in your area! :lol:

 

Future is great for sealing... and I just LOVE the smell!

 

I will warn you not to overdo the sealing... Future self-levels and can start running VERY quickly if you apply too much on a surface. It's best to generally do a couple light coats over a period of time.

 

Also, don't handle the piece right away. Future has a bit of a curing period, and if you handle it before it is cured fully, the heat from your fingers can actually cause the Future to melt a bit and you can end up with a fingerprint on your surface... :lol: I've know quite a few modelers who's works were "fingerprinted" at one time or another, including myself. :blink:

 

Have fun with the airbrush!

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A question here about air brushing primer? Do you actually use a primer, or just use a mix of paint? I just picked up a paasche double action gun, and I am getting ready to begin my experimentations... but I am not sure if I need to get some primer or just use the paint itself.

 

Fallen

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A question here about air brushing primer? Do you actually use a primer, or just use a mix of paint? I just picked up a paasche double action gun, and I am getting ready to begin my experimentations... but I am not sure if I need to get some primer or just use the paint itself.

 

Fallen

It all depends on what you want to use, and have handy: Enamels, acrylics and laquers.

 

Enamels: Floquil, Testors, Model Masters Acryl

Acrylics: Tamiya, Gunze, Polly Scale

Lacquers: Model Masters, Mr Hobby Color

 

Lacquers are really the best paints to use in airbrushing. However, there are quite a few side effects/hazards involved in working with them - death, explosion, lung disease, etc. Enamels are slightly better than acrylics, but can be a pain to clean up if they dry too quickly in your airbrush, or if you spill them. Acrylics generally easier to clean up and you generally don't have to buy some expensive brand of thinner to make them work. Also, with lacquers, you sometimes need (depending on the brand) a retarder to slow down the curing process so it doesn't dry out in the space between your airbrush and the surface you are painting.

 

When priming a miniature the coat of your paint is called the "shell". Lacquer shells are the most durable, and so are enamels.

 

In terms of acrylics, the Gunze beats Tamiya by a mile and Polly Scale is a bit up from the Tamiya. The Model Masters Acryl seems to be a popular choice, and generally is readily available at most hobby shops. However, I don't like paying extra for thinning agents given the number of pieces that I do...

 

What you really are doing with the coats you are laying down is establishing a coating over the miniature on which to apply your paint. So in essence, your primed miniature is now your canvas.

 

Once you have your canvas, you paint your miniatures, and then you seal them. If you use a durable sealer - such as Dull Coat or Future/Flat Base, then you needn't worry about what's underneath, as you've created a transparent durable "shell" over your paint job.

 

Generally, it sometimes falls to what is available and what you can afford and what makes the most sense for your set-up situation. I would recommend finding a decent FLAT black and FLAT white (don't use gloss paints to prime with) to use for priming your miniatures. Try experimenting with those...

 

I hope that helps some...

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In terms of acrylics, the Gunze beats Tamiya by a mile and Polly Scale is a bit up from the Tamiya. The Model Masters Acryl seems to be a popular choice, and generally is readily available at most hobby shops. However, I don't like paying extra for thinning agents given the number of pieces that I do...

Try using Rubbing Alcohol. I thin ALL my current crop of acrylics I airbrush (Polly Scale, Testors Acryl, Tamiya) with it and get good results.

 

Damon.

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Well, the airbrush compressor came in and I'm all giddy... I had time to set it up... test it... prime a few figs... and that was about it... Real-Life's getting in the way... but at least I'm no longer trying to hear myself think above my compressor!!!

 

p.s. Windex and Rubbing Alcohol... I'll have to play with both of 'em... Weee!

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Guest madDdog67

Howdy all!

 

I just bought an airbrush last week. I used to have one years ago, then got rid of it...kinda got out of modeling/minis for a long stretch. I just picked up a single action Paasche. I decided to go the C02 route instead of a compressor....I have enough noise in he house from all the stuff I do w/o adding to it lol. I paid $80 for the 10lb tank, got the first fill up for free, and the regulator was another $70. I had to buy a small shut off valve as the regulator was set up to use with a Kegerator, and they use a hose clamp type deal. The Paasche just wants a 1/4" male end to connect to. Anyway, I got it running last night late, and barely had a chance to play with it.

 

The setup came witht he small tip installed, and using Tamiya flat black (only stuff I had laying around besides Citedel Chaos Black), and I had to bump the pressure up to about 35lbs to get a usuable amount of paint to come out. I switched out the small tip for the medium one, but didn't get a chance to use it before I went to bed....will try that tonight.

 

I'm mostly going to use this set up for priming minis, and the occasional AFV model camo job like the one being done on the Chimera. I'm interested in finding out the best combo of flat black and white you folks like for primer, and the ratios and PSIs you like to use. Thanks!

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@madDdog67

 

thin your paints. if you are having to run that pressure for a gun to suck paint with a fine nozzel, something is wrong. (bottom feed?) the paint should be a touch thicker than water. (skim milk). You should be painting at about 10 psi or so... more for priming.

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