tatsu Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 My very first attempt at NMM. Colors used were VGC Wolf Grey, Black, VGC Stonewall Grey, and VGC Ghost Grey for the blade. VGC Charred Brown, Cobra Leather, Filthy Brown, Sunblast Yellow and Skull White for the hilt. I'm asking for advice on the sword blade and gold ( ) hilt. Any would be really appreciated. At the moment, the NMM seems quite lacking to me. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twiztidjuggalo78 Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 tatsu i think that for a first try @ NMM it looks great. only thing that seems to be lacking is the brightness. im pretty sure that most of the NMM painters use white for the final highlight on everything gold, steel, etc.. but im not positive and im unable to do NMM. Jester has posted his reciepe for all kinds of NMM on his site. it really does look very good. maybe just one more highlight on the sword itself in white would make it perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Errex Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 If you look at both the gold and steel parts, you'll notice the gold seems a lot more convincing. That is because it clearly goss from very dark, to very bright. On the steel, the difference between the darker and lighter part is not enough to convey a sense of hardness. You need to work your gradients from almost black to pure white there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tatsu Posted March 30, 2005 Author Share Posted March 30, 2005 Alright, thanks alot of the advice! I will give the blade a few more white lines and hot spots. Do you think the shadow side of the blade should be darker? And I just noticed that I had erased most of my shadows for the gold hilt! Now there's only patches of shadow here and there. That's what I get for trying a new technique at 3 in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Errex Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 The thing with NMM is that practically every surface has to sport a gradient, even though not all have to go all the way from black to white. The shadow side could start almost black, and towards the tip you need to work a gradient just a bit above medium grey. The lighted side has to be worked from a ligth/mid grey up to white, but the edges have to be picked up as if they were a different surface, that is, the line should not be white all around, or the end result would be similar to a Tron prop. Basically, you'd want to go from, say, dark to light upwards on one surface, and the adjacent one should go dark to light downwards. Whenever having both gradients going in the same direction is a must, then you should make sure there is a slight warp in them, so as to depict the slight changes on the reflections from different angled surfaces. I do have some specific examples somewhere on these boards. One quick search for "threvus", "lightbringer" or "fianna" should do the trick, I think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tatsu Posted March 30, 2005 Author Share Posted March 30, 2005 Thank you very much! I was afraid of using alot of white due to the tron effect you desribed earlier. Your advice gave me a better understanding of NMM. I appreciate it. ~Tatsu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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