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illanthraen

Reaper Paints: Good?

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meh..lmao

 

either way, its not as horrible as you all make it out to be.

LOL,

 

I don't think it's horrible. I just don't want to pay more for lower quality ::):

I'm with Jenova on this one. There are a few colors that I continue to buy because I've been using them so long, I like to maintain a unified look amongst my models (Ie.. I started doing skeletons one way, I'm going to keep doing them that way).

 

I also haven't found any reds that I like as much as the GW reds - but that is just personal preference - and is also not to say I don't like any other reds.. just personal preference. I also really like the Graveyard Earth, Desert Yellow and Kommando Khaki. And I like to use scorched brown and dark flesh, with a highlight for a reddish leather color.

 

 

But I have found for the most part that I first reach for the Reaper Master Series of Vallejo model colors - depending on what I'm painting. I've also taken to painting my Imperial Guardsmen with the Muddy Olive and the olive highlight (which in my personal opinion is a bit too extreme of a change without being really thinned out, but works beautifully for armor and hard edges)

 

A good way to get people to switch is simply show someone the pricetag on a reaper bottle and a GW bottle, and then pour the GW paint into a dropper bottle. When people actually see it only fills half the bottle, and the prices are comperable - then they further understand the value. (Plus, they don't dry out as quickly in dropper bottles - and you can add a little bit of flow improver as you pour)

 

To me, the best paint to use is the one you like. I started out with craft paints, and I was happy (although a lousy painter.. also noone told me to prime the figures)... as I adapt and use new techniques, I find different paints fit my need and make me happy. I won't win any demons, but thats not why I paint.. I'm a gamer first and a painter second. I want to paint quickly to get my troops on the field and occasionally take some time to really do something nice as a change of pace. Right now the Reaper Master Series suit my needs perfectly because they are arranged in a triad and I don't need to think about mixing colors or what should I use as a highlight. The foundry paints are the same way - except they are hard for me to get, and I like supporting Reaper.

 

Thats just my rather lengthy $.02

if reaper could offer those specific colors that i keep buying, in the exact tint i need, then id probably switch... but you cant really fault them i suppose

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Anyone who paints with oils and stuff doesn't stuck to one manuafacturer for simply that reason. The same is true of acrylics and enamals.

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Tube acrylics are great, especially if you tend to waste paint. One of the tubes I use regularly (Payne's Grey) has lasted me 2 years.

 

You have to thin them out a lot because they are sooooo much thicker coming straight out of the tube.

 

I'm converting to MSP for the majority of my paints soon. I'll still keep using my tube paints for some things, since I know them best.

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Elouchard does wonderful work with his tubes, but he doesn't just use them, but the Vallejos and other stuff as well.

 

Yeah, he does fantastic work.

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With Acrylic Tube type paints the thicker paint is not necessarily an indication of pigment load. Thickening agents are added to produce the heavy paint consistancy some artist desire. Thinning the heavy body paints to a fluid consistancy for mini painting can produce paint with a lower pigment count than paints that were designed as fluid acrylics. This may not be a bad thing but something to keep in mind.

 

Also, thanks Anne for your work in the Reaper Paint area.

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Especially now that I've almost bugged Anne into getting all the good Pro Paint colors out in MSP's (Walnut->Brown Liner complete, still plucking away at Oiled Leather and a true Aged Red Brick).

Apparently my paint-indentured-servant (he keeps insisting he's not a paint-slave...) is smoking something. Mahogany Brown = Aged Red Brick. :;): Oiled Leather, now, that's coming up in the batch after #108!

 

--Anne

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This past week or so I've been using the MSP's to paint up some CAV stuff and I have to admit, I wish I had opened the MSP's earlier! They go on kind of thin and require more layers but wow! do they look smooth when they dry! They're easier to wash with too. My painting "ability" has leapt up since I started using them. ::):

 

good going Anne! ::):

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well, see i think thats where im at a bit of an advantage, i buy from alot of different companies, that way im not stuck to just one color/set

I dunno... I own the complete set of GW paints, the complete set of i-Kore paints. the complete set of Reaper Master Paints, about half the Foundry paints and half the Pro Paints, as well as a good number of Vallejo and Coat d'arms. I also have a few paints from other companies (Ironwind Metals and some I don't remember). Honestly I don't use most of them. I have a few favorites from GW and i-Kore that I'll continue buying (actually I think the i-Kore stuff is OOP), but most of them I never use.... oh well ^_^

I'm so glad to see I'm not the only one with this sickness. Full set of VGC. 30-odd bottles VMC. All the RMP up to #75. Most of the RPP. A scattering of GW, Adikolor, and others.

 

If having lots of figs is figmentia, what do we have? Paintmentia?

 

Obviously, the vinyl and other additives is going to our brains.

 

But seriously, I like the RMP skin tones very much. Still prefer my VMC reds. I've seen the RMP foam on the pallet, which is downright wierd. Blues all lines that I've seen are pretty nice.

 

Many of the sins of the RPP can be cured by putting FRESH bottles of paint into droppers. Apparently much of the problem with these paints isn't the formula, it's packaging that allows too much exposure to air (are you listening, Bryan and Anne?)

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on me next order, im probably going to be buying alot of pro paint bottles and transferring some paints... starting to not like the new GW bottle

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With Acrylic Tube type paints the thicker paint is not necessarily an indication of pigment load. Thickening agents are added to produce the heavy paint consistancy some artist desire. Thinning the heavy body paints to a fluid consistancy for mini painting can produce paint with a lower pigment count than paints that were designed as fluid acrylics. This may not be a bad thing but something to keep in mind.

 

Also, thanks Anne for your work in the Reaper Paint area.

I can certainly vouch for this issue as well.

There have been times where I've probably had to double or triple my layers to get the coverage I wanted. Which means waiting for drying or being impatient, adding new layers too soon and giving yourself brush strokes on the mini :angry:

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So I went ahead and started ordering paints from the reaper store. ((couldn't get to a store that had MSP or anything reaper for that matter. Ah well))

 

Couldn't choose what i wanted so i bought the first 54 as there seems to be a good mix of colours. My bank account hurts but I'm pretty excited.

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I felt that same burning sensation coming from my wallet about a month ago now.

Since I have gotten my first 90, I have been pleased as punch. And haven't regretted a dime spent. Now I am just patiently (okay, maybe not so patient) waiting for the next 18.

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