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ladystorm

Paints, reaper and others.

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Does anyone but me use Magic Color paints?  I really like the consistency, but because they are not very opaque, my methods are almost backwards from every one else I've talked to.

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Guys FYI Iron Wind Metals is Ral Partha. The Ral Partha product line was bought by former Ral Partha employees from Wiz Kids back at the begining of the year.  From what i have heard they plan on using the same formula for the paints.

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Ahh! I'm late on this topic, it seems!

 

I use an eclectic mix of paints. Mostly Citadel Paints, Partha Paints, Reaper Paints, and Polly Scale model railroad paints.  The Partha's are slowly running out, and as the pots empty, I replace them with the Reaper pro paints.

 

I find that the Citadel paints seem to be a bit more vibrant, the Parthas and Reapers a bit more subdued. So I usually overlap colors qquite a bit (I've got about 8 shades of red between the 4 brands).

 

The Polly scale paints aren't bad. They're really thin, but I mostly use just the black, the white, and the varying flesh colors... They don't cover black primer at all...

 

As for Vallejo paints, I just found someone somewhat local that carrys them, so I'll be phoning in a review in a few weeks... If I but them now, I'll never get anything done before my vacation... I'd be painting all the time!

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I just got back into gaming and painting minis, I was using GW paints, and was very unhappy with the containers (and their yellow), when my local shop started carrying Vallejo paints. I'm sold! Big time. Coverage is excellent, even white ivory or yellow over black primer. The eyedropper bottles are fantastic.

 I still use some GW paints (there is no substitute for Liche Purple), but aside from a few exceptions I will be replacing my paints with Vallejo.

 

Chris

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As a professional, I have learned to use whichever does the best job. My "pallet" (4 tangerine crates) contains Ral Partha, Reaper, CeramCoat by Delta, Polly-S, some old Armory (the few that haven't dried up), a couple of Badger Air Opaque, and a tube of art paint (brand forgotten and unreadable) 'Naphthol Crimson'. As for primers, I mentioned my choice under the 'Primers' post; Rust Curb 'Snap Gloss' available at the Family Dollar chain of stores ($2 for a 19 oz. can, top quality). Now, for those who are having problems with ruboff, try Krylon #1311 'Spray Matte Sealer'. That's the only clear coat I will bother with. Non-yellowing, non-globbing, and a smooth, perfect coat every time. Glossiness can result from multiple coats though, so be careful.

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I do have a minor gripe about Reaper's metallics; the Red & Green are a bit too faded looking. I added some of that 'Naphthol Crimson' to the red when I did my latest, Thorvald of the Black Gauntlett (I think that's the right name. I can't seem to find it on the site, and I don't have the blister card handy). He's a Werner Klocke piece, full plate armor with a battle axe in right hand and a heavy pick in left hand, with a huge fur cloak and 3 dragons' teeth hanging off the fron of his armor. With the crimson added, that red looks SOOO much more intense, while still being metallic and shiny.

I did the same thing for the green when I did the Amber Dragon for a client. I added some Armory green (sort of a glossy, intense dark green), which made the green metallic super intense and shiny. I used the same green on the wing membranes, and got many raves on it.

The blue is a bit faded looking too, but I have yet to use that one on a major scale.

The Gun Metal has far too strong of a blue tinge too it, also. Try to do more of a black, like Ral Partha 'Steel'. The Reaper Steel Plate that I picked up leaves a very rough feeling texture, which leads me to surmise that the metal flakes are a bit too large. Maybe a finer grade of flake would be in order.

There are a couple of colors that should be considered also, but that will be another topic.

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Hi all,

 

Like a lot of people I use a variety of different paints. Mostly I use Apple Barrel Craft paints. I've never had any unusual problems keeping the paint on the mini (half the time I suspect its the primer coat that's the real problem). OTOH I had lots of problems with RP paints coming off so I dunno...

 

I've used just about every paint out there and to be hones the craft paints give me the results I want, suit my technique, and do so cheaply. If I had to choose a commercial mini paint I'd probably go with Reaper with a bit of thinning...

 

Personally I dislike GW paints. Little too satiny for my tastes and don't take washes as well as I would like. Also they don't make too many colors that I want. Most look like they're straight from a Crayola box. Their metallics are good though.

 

Vallejo paints ARE top notch and because they are a little thicker and concentrated than others are really useful for overpainting details in one coat without the base showing through. Currently I use the paints (usually thinned a little) for "specialized" colors with historicals (i.e. Feldgrau for my WWII Germans). I would invest more into them but a) I have to mail order all of them and b) they are expensive ($2.75 per)!

 

Damon.

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Vallejo paints are $2.00 per bottle through www.albinorhino.com/hobby. At that price, they're cheaper by volume than any other specialty miniature paint on the market.

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