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Thinning MSP's

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SO, I've got the whole set of MSP's on it's way soon and I was looking for some feedback on thinning them.

 

Since they are different than what I normally use, which are VMC's and VGC's, I was wondering how much have people 'tweaked their gunk' to get the proper flow...

 

Or if most haven't changed their formula at all and are sticking to the old standard of extender/flow-aid/water.

 

I read as much as I could sift through about the new paints before I bought them, I did come up with the knowledge that people are generally adding "less" extender to their MSP's for thinning purpose, just wondering if anyone had any experiences to share?

 

 

A wise man learns from his mistakes, a wiser one learns from the mistakes of others... :poke:

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Actually I adsd the same amount of extender I added to my other paints, but no flow aid. So I have two little bottles of additives now. One is just extender for the MSP's, the other is 8/1/1 Extender/Flowaid/Water. And I always also add extra water to the mix in either case so it's usualy50% additive 50% water.

 

I know a lot of people use just water and are happy with that. I'm slow, so I like the extender for more open time.

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I'm one of the water-only folks... mainly because it's what I'm used to (and very very impatient when it comes to paint drying). I get my MSP in a ceramic palette, put some water next to it, and tweak consistency dependent on what I'm trying to do.

 

Every once and a while I will gunk out.. but mainly just extender when the humidity is low.

 

Speaking of which, climate affects the mix. Our Colorado brethren & sisters will attest to that (being so dry... they have super fast dry times)....

 

Rgds,

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I still add flow-aid to my MSP's along with extender, esp. since I paint multiple minis at a time usually. Depending upon the humidity and how the paint's behaving that day I'll lower my gunk and put more water in.

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Cool cool, thanks for the replies so far, it's good to hear everyone's take on it. At the current time with using my Vallejo's I'm almost using pure water at this point, with a touch of flow-aid to break the surface tension and the occasional drop of extender or matte medium depending on what I'm doing.

 

When I first started adding additives and whatnot to my paints I was using a LOT more than I do now, takes awhile to get used to the 'handle' of the paints. At this point mostly water is working for me, so I'm hoping to make the transition smoothly to MSP's using mostly water for a thinner. That idea is one of the main reasons I'm excited about these paints.

 

I've spent too much of my life on finding the perfect "dilution solution" and still haven't found it. Heck, sometimes I still use a little future in my paints depending...I'm hoping that the formulation of these MSP's is all that I've heard. I'm definately a "Layerer", and I've heard these paints are specifically formulated for that style, I even switch over to craft paints for certain colors because of their semi-opacity and the way it lends itself to working with many thin layers.

 

Sometimes VMC's get a bit chalky when they're thinned too far, too much binder or something...I'm not a paint scientist or anything, I just know what I likes and what I don't likes. :poke: And what I don't likes is chalky paint. I'm more of a fan of the "skin over" types of paint like VGC, but I have issues with the range of colors available and just the general overall quality of that paint.

 

For one, the reds have no real "mid range" red, it goes from Scab Red which is a beautiful color, to Gore Red, which is a very transparent magenta pink base red, which does NOT work well with trying to acheive a good mid for the next step which is Blood red, which is a nice red color in itself but they don't really make a highlight for it, it's the highest high of their red range, but you have to use it as a mid because Gore Red sucks as a mid. ::(:

 

Don't get me started on the VMC reds, I've wasted over 20 bucks at least buying and trying their vast range of reds. Here's a tip, if you like red that looks like the color Magenta, buy their Red. Totally lackluster mids and highlights as well, I've switched to craft paint and tube paint Cadmium reds to get a good red and I'm seriously hoping that the MSP's can cure this headache.

 

All of the hype sounds exactly like the answer to alot of my paint woes, I wouldn't have jumped in and bought them unless I had read all of your testimony here, pro and con. Alot of the "pro" statements were made by people who expressed things in a way that made me go "Yeah, that's something that I have an issue with, sounds good" and most of the "con" statements were made by people who said things that made me go "see...for me it's opposite, I prefer the exact opposite of that..." so, by deductive logic...

 

Gee I love talking about paint. :wub:

 

I'll holler back of course once I get my paints and have given them a thourough work through. I've got 3 Reaper Minis and a Limited Edition Freebooter mini from last year that I'm going to give the full treatment to as soon as my paints arrive.

 

~DS

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I do remember a few threads on the topic of additives for Master Series paints, I remember posting about it at least once myself... Anne listed her recipe there, and also in the latest Casket Works:

 

10% undiluted flow improver

30% extender or retarder

60% filtered or distilled water

 

I just thin with water for basecoats and some other applications, but the paints do dry quicker than others I've used, particularly back when it was colder and less humid. For layering and doing fine detail work I use the mix above, and it seems to work pretty well for me. I definitely found the paints to have a bit of a different 'feel' and that I had to experiment with different levels of dilution for different tasks, but as I've been working that out, I'm just liking these paints more and more.

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Yes, yes that does seem to be a bit less extender than the previously recommended 80% extender to 10% water to 10 % flow improver.

 

I wonder if Reaper ever plans on packaging their own "gunk". I'm sure I'm not the first person to think of this, but it would be nice to see in a bottle form pre-mixed. I'd change the name though, as "gunk" sounds like the last thing you'd want in your paints lol.

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With the vallejos I used to add a little flow improver at a time untill it felt right (when I actually did thin).

 

With the MSP - I find it's just as easy and convienant to simply add a little water in with no appreciable loss of pigmentation - which really is saying something for the paints.

 

Depending on your style, you might want to add a retardant or gel medium - but honestly, to get a nice thin flow - just water does the trick.

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Yes, yes that does seem to be a bit less extender than the previously recommended 80% extender to 10% water to 10 % flow improver.

 

I wonder if Reaper ever plans on packaging their own "gunk". I'm sure I'm not the first person to think of this, but it would be nice to see in a bottle form pre-mixed. I'd change the name though, as "gunk" sounds like the last thing you'd want in your paints lol.

All I know is that there's talk about it from owner type peoples and Anne-type peoples and John-type peoples and Freelance-painter-type peoples... I'm optimistic that once a good mix is found it'll become a reality... but I'm Mr. Unofficial

 

Rgds,

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I know that we plan on releasing our own extender, but we will probably not be pre-mixing it with water. You will be free to find a ratio that works for your style.

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Actually there is nothing weird about that at all. I am guessing that you layer Flynn? If so then the faster the paint dries the better. Me I layer but live in a humid area so sometimes it seems it takes forever for my previous layer to dry. I envy your climate.

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Yeah, I layer. And now I'm using a wet palette.

 

I found that if I thinned my paint too much, it would dry out even faster.

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Just a comment to add to your reds observations, Darkstar--MSP's will be getting another red, and a fantastic one, at the end of this month, in the Clear Brights Clear Red. It can be used to intensify the reds of the basic triads via mixing or glazing. ::): My favorite red with MSP's starts actually with the shadow of the Red Browns triad, 9070 Mahogany Brown, then works up through a 50/50 mix of Mahogany and Clear Red, then pure Clear Red (usually a couple of layers to really make it pop), maybe a layer of 9004 Fire Red if you want to introduce a cooler rather than a warmer tone, and if you take it up to yellow normally like I do then you just add in Clear Yellow in progressively larger amounts until you have a red that just screams. ::D:

 

--Anne, who loves her screaming-eyeball Red. ::):

p.s. Remember, you don't need to thin these paints much at all--my basecoat consistancy is usually 3:1 paint:water and layering usually ends up somewhere around 1:1. ::): Hope you like 'em!

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