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Priming suggestions?


Mojoman
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Cool. One thing I forgot to mention is to not prime you minis. I tried this once after reading a painting guide by one of the Games Workshup guys (Garth something or other...). He tried painting a skaven mini one day when he had run out of primer. He just painted it and it turned out great, after that he stopped priming his figures. His skaven army was totally sweet!! Any way the one I painted without primer turned out very well, (it was a dwarf) but I still like priming them better, but if your budget is super tight it is something to consider. Good luck!! ::):

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Thanks for the tip, ugluk... Seeing the mass of unpainted, unprimed minis glaring at me from across the room (*sniff* :unsure: mommy! *sob*), I might just give this a try. (shouts across the room) "I'll paint you minis, if it's the last thing I do!" :lol:

 

Mojo

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I don't think priming is supposed to have a dramatic effect on your paint job (except maybe for making it a tad easier with the right color base-coat).

 

I though priming was supposed to make the paint stick to the model better (i.e primer had better adhesion to metal and the actual paint-paint sticks to eh the primer).

 

Your pain job will be fine, but it will chip easier.

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Mojoman: make sure you do light, very light coats from several angles. Keep enough distance to not overwhelm the mini (this happens fast) but not so much as to have the paint hitting the mini already half-dried. Don't start or stop spraying with the can pointed at the mini, rather start spraying clear of the mini, then sweep across the mini, then stop spraying clear of the mini.

 

Don't flood detail trying to totally cover all the mini, just get a light, preferrably even coat over most of it.

 

Give it 48 hours to "cure". Theoretically it should be hard to scratch the primer off by then- harder than scratching off paint anyhow- but raised surfaces or bits you tend to hold on to will often get worn thru or chipped.

 

Finally, you do need to seal the whole finished paint job. Testors Dull Cote is ideal but a craft-brand clear spray sealer can work fine too. Make sure the mini is totally, totaly dry before you seal or it can foul up.

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