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Printing backgrounds


Mclimbin
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Hello,

 

Well, I've taken the plunge and spent all day putting together a light box a la Airhead:

 

http://www.dragon-miniatures.com/tips.php?page=diffusion

 

Though his looks better than mine. Might just be the photo though :lol::lol:

 

Gosh, I crack myself up sometimes.

 

Anyway, I am now in the process of printing out backgrounds. It was mentioned to me that it would be good to have three different ones: a light blue, a neutral grey, and a neutral brown. Does anyone know a good way to use Photoshop (or some other program) to produce documents like these?

 

I was able to get a light blue, but the grey is rather brownish, and the brown is rather reddish. Maybe there is a photoshop guru out there who knows the settings for these colors?

 

Thanks!

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I have difficulty printing them out on my inkjet, the calibration settings are hard to get for certain colors, especially browns...as you really need Hexachrome printing to get super accurate browns, it's hard to even get ballpark with certain colors on a 4 color printer, especially brown gradients.

 

Calibrating your monitor to your printer is a big time ordeal using the OLE tools in Photoshop, but it can be done...but you still won't get great matches with brown on a CMYK inkjet. Hexachrome printers include an Orange cartrige, which makes it much easier for browns to be reproduced.

 

Word of advice before you waste alot of ink, bring your gradient to a walk-in printshop or digital copy shop and have them make some laser prints for you on high quality stock. That way if the color doesn't match your file, you can have them eat the cost while they try to match it. You need to make this clear at the desk though, that you are interested in getting your colors reproduced accurately, as some business have expensive proof charges.

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I am not a print specialist, nor do I play one on TV, but here's an idea I have been kicking around. Place white, red, blue, and yellow squares off to the side of your gradient - when balancing colors after the shot, they can give you a "true" reference. The white is to help the cameras, some of which look for a pure white for auto corrections.

 

Any of you artsy types have an opinion on the effectiveness of this?

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