Are there Master paints must haves???

[Sash 0]

Hello,

I want to place an online-order of the new reaper master paints. I have all the citadel, Modelcolour/Gamecolours and Andrea Colours.

I do not know which colours I really need from the huge masterpaint line.

Are there any must haves?

 

Thanks for your answers

Sash

[Jubilee 469]

All of them!

 

But start with flesh.

 

Then...

 

Brown liner

Linen White

Breonne-Ashen-Templar Blue

Amethyst-Indigo Sky-Pale Indigo

Ocean Blues

Mahagony-Chestnut Brown-Rust

Jungle/Moss Green Triad

Bone Triad

Stone Gray

Stormy Gray

Blue liner

 

I like the browns and yellowy-browns, but I have trouble getting them to play nice together, even in triad form.

 

I have yet to use the orangey triads. I should try them some day. :)

[haldir 26254]

yes the fleshtones are must have paint, the liners are great as well, since they are great for blacklining & such

 

Randy M

[Mengu 71]

I don't normally repeat what other people have said, but this one I will.

 

FLESH TONES.

 

They are the best. My next favorite is probably the Bone triad. And I like the multitude of greys, brown and blue liners, linen white and pure white.

 

There is a buying guide in one of the Casketworks, I'll see if I can dig that out tonight.

[MinipainterUS 1]

I like the browns and yellowy-browns, but I have trouble getting them to play nice together, even in triad form.

Try adding them to each other, rather than trying to use each as a separate entity. For example; the distance between Palomino and Amber is a bit much for my painting style. Adding a small drop of Palomino to the Amber gives me something with less SHV difference, and by making more "smaller" color steps, I achieve a better result.

[Jubilee 469]

Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have a real problem maintaining consistency when mixing paints. =(

 

/ali

[Vaitalla 809]

Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have a real problem maintaining consistency when mixing paints. =(

 

/ali

 

You could do what I usually do and stick to 50/50 mixes, Ali; that would probably be better than nothing and I know you're not afraid to mix. But seriously, with the browns, a helpful tip is to actually layer in reverse. I got phenomenal results starting with Golden Blonde and shadowing down instead of starting dark and working light with 'em. Though the Palomino triad still works best for me starting with Palomino and working down, then up...weirdo paints, that's what I have given the world... ;P :D

 

--Anne

[Sash 0]

Thanks for your fast replies!

I have choosen already some paints from Annes` pdf file. :

 

Mossy Green Triad

Ocean Blue Triad

Ochre gold triad

Royal Purples Triad

Violet Reds Triad

Twilight Triad

 

Pine Green

Tanned Leather

Golden Blond

 

I hope that I could get some other questions I had:

May I ask why there are specially paints for outlining/surlignage/=darklining???/?

What are there for advantages with this? I never had problems with diluted standart paints to outline.

Are these linen colours matte to fix a non reflective shadow or shiny?

 

How matte is the complete masterpaints set without using additives.

Do I need to varnish when liking matte colours?

When Yes will there be problems to matte down the colours with glazes of the matte Liqitex paints

or other acrylic colours (Citadel, Andrea Paints etc.....)?

 

Are heavily diluted masterpaints fragile after dried when using diluted washes over them?

 

Anne may I ask witch colours you would recommend me from the masterpaints?

(I have all Vallejo Gamecolours,Modelcolours, Citadels and Andreacolours and want no colour

useless twice)

 

thanks again and best wishes

Sash

[Vaitalla 809]

May I ask why there are specially paints for outlining/surlignage/=darklining???/?

What are there for advantages with this? I never had problems with diluted standart paints to outline.

Are these linen colours matte to fix a non reflective shadow or shiny?

 

There are three reasons for the Liners:

 

1) They are a little more fluid than our other paints, though they still can be used normally

2) To make it easier for people to pick a color for lining because MSP's otherwise had no very dark colors

3) To give me the opportunity to put some extremely dark colors in the line!

 

How matte is the complete masterpaints set without using additives.

Do I need to varnish when liking matte colours?

When Yes will there be problems to matte down the colours with glazes of the matte Liqitex paints

or other acrylic colours (Citadel, Andrea Paints etc.....)?

 

Reasonably matte. I would compare them as being somewhere between Vallejo Model and Game Colors. Thinning them with water will, of course, cause them to go flatter. We are continually trying to find a way to make the paints go flatter without compromising smoothness or consistancy.

 

Using varnishes like Dullcote or brush-on matte sealer never hurt; I always do, especially when using dark colors, which tend to be more reflective.

 

You should be able to use Liquitex, Citadel, Vallejo and other companies' products easily with MSP's. The only company I would be wary of is Tamiya, since their Acrylics are not of the standard sort. I haven't used Andrea paints, so please tell me if you have any trouble with using MSP's with them.

 

Are heavily diluted masterpaints fragile after dried when using diluted washes over them?

 

Absolutely not. MSP's, if anything, sacrifice a little in one-coat coverage in order to attain very high adhesion. A vinyl base tends to cover better, but we decided to go with an acrylic latex instead because it doesn't rub off or come up even when heavily diluted. I can't *stand* paints that rub off; it's why I don't use my Vallejos any more.

 

Anne may I ask witch colours you would recommend me from the masterpaints?

(I have all Vallejo Gamecolours,Modelcolours, Citadels and Andreacolours and want no colour

useless twice)

 

Well, I'm not familiar with the Andrea colors, but the thing to remember about MSP's is that they are typically not quite as bright as the Citadels but not as muted as the Vallejos. You will rarely find a perfect color match and their consistancies are far different anyway; I would highly recommend picking up our Pure White, for example, even though I'm sure you already have white! Otherwise, colors which I use constantly (they hardly ever go back onto the paint spinner!):

 

For skintones:

Tanned Skin 9044

Rosy Shadow 9067

Golden Shadow 9091

 

For other colors:

Mahogany Brown 9070

Blue Liner (it's very close to traditional artists' Payne's Grey) 9066

Clear Red 9094

Clear Yellow 9095

Clear Blue 9097

Ashen Blue 9057

Nightshade Purple 9022

Stormy Grey 9088 or Cloudy Grey 9089

Palomino Gold 9074

Chestnut Gold 9073

Oiled Leather 9110

Aged Bone 9059

Brown Liner 9064

Muddy Brown 9028

Burnt Orange 9111

Linen White 9061

 

Hope that helps! In the above list, only Clear Yellow is close to a Citadel color--it's close to Bad Moon Yellow. The others should be pretty unique, though Ashen Blue may be similar to a Vallejo grey blue, I couldn't remember--Vallejo has so many grey blues!!

 

--Anne

[Jubilee 469]

Ashen blue is just a tad greenish compared to gray blue. I think you said one of the upcoming blues would be closer to gray blue in another thread, Anne.. :) And I don't know where you get the impression I am not afraid to mix paints - I hate mixing! I avoid it like the plague. ;)

 

Sash, I have a great deal of both vallejo game & model colors from before the RMS paints came out. The only paints from vallejo I feel compelled to use nowadays are the black & brown glaze, and the pale sand (Linen white as a color works good instead of pale sand, but sometimes pale sand is useful when I need to put down a very light color and I've accidently gotten something dark there instead - vallejo still has a slight advantage on coverage there). However, I always hated how VGC tended to separate & VMC is often too muted for my tastes.

 

I don't know about andrea paints, but Reaper flesh tones beat out vallejo fleshes hands down. Most of the vallejos have a horrible orange cast to them and Reaper fleshes look much more realistic.

 

Some additives (future floor wax) make reaper paints glossier than others. Also, the earlier paints tend to be glossier than the later releases, in my experience - I don't know if this is because I got a batch pre-forumaltion change, or if it's just the colors themselves.

[Sergeant_Crunch 7841]

Have you considered marketing a MSP starter kit? Nothing too big to keep the price point down, but enough to cover your basic painting needs like primary color triads, a flesh triad, a brown triad, black, white, a few metallics, and finish it with the brush on primer and sealant.

[MinipainterUS 1]

Well, I'm not familiar with the Andrea colors,

--Anne

Andrea paints are bottled by Vallejo. 'Nuff said.

[Sash 0]

Thank you all for your help! Well when I sold my MSP. I will paint a miniature and share my opinnion about these colour line in this forum.

For Anne:

I haven't used Andrea paints, so please tell me if you have any trouble with using MSP's with them.

Andrea Colours are bottled by Vallejo. They are completely the same ones like Modelcolours, the only difference is that they dry matte and there are not so many colours in the set. I will send you an personal message when tested how these paints work together!

 

Best wishes and thanks your

Sash