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Tips and advice?


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Here's a good tip: if your quitting smoking STOP PAINTING!!  Use the time to do more reading and research.  I found myself using my paint brush as a weapon to punish my poor miniature.  Soo angry at the little fella I had to step away.  I'm thinking its a good time to watch videos on paint theory, make some notes in my paint journal, read every post written in this forum lol....  I hope this will someday help someone else in a similar situation.

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 You really want to scrub them lightly with a toothbrush or something when you wash them to get the mold release off...

I personally then quickly prime them with one of the Reaper liner colors, either brown or grey. Experience here on the forum has shown that the Reaper brown liner works well as a primer for Bones. You really don't need to get a solidly opaque coat on, just enough to make sure the whole thing's covered.

 

 I've been using a mix of grey liner, a drop of flow improver and a tiny bit of matte medium to make it more translucent. It barely even tints the mini other than in the low spots so it doesn't affect the colors I use for basecoats. So far I haven't had any problems with it.

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Hi there guys! I am new to the airbrushing

 

This is almost the same situation as me... I just signed up, and i've also just recently gotten an airbrush kit. The airbrush in question i got was the Paasche VL-Set, and the Paasche D3000R compressor / Tank. Amazon had them on sale, and work chipped in for it for a special project. which was awesome!

 

so far i've used it mostly for basing minis or doing a main coat on large models. I'm just starting to get into masking minis to use the air brush on them. i'm starting with the red dragon from Wrath of Ashardalon... but due to it's construction there's alot of areas that will be challenging to get into with an air brush...

 

I'm really looking forward to the Khanjira model!! that one i'm likely going to break out the air brush to do the majority of the painting on it. maybe after i practice a bit more on some of the other dragons and stuff. so i'll be looking around on the forums for some air brushing tutorials and stuff so i can hopefully get better at it!

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@oldbeginner, welcome to the forums.  The Learn to Paint kits are a great place to start.

 

Most of the triads can be used to start you out on shading and highlighting.  Depending on your preferences, you can start with the midtone as a base coat, then wash or layer in the shade color, and then drybrush or layer in the highlight color.  I think most of these techniques are covered in the Bones Learn to Paint kit, but that's a kit I don't have.  I do have several of the older kits that Reaper has dropped from their line (unfortunately).  Depending on how smooth you want your blends, you'll need to mix up intermediate colors and perhaps extend the value range to darker and lighter colors that go beyond the triad.

 

Some of the triads are not intended to be used that way (three different liners or inks, for instance).  They are just related colors packaged together.

 

Since you're new, I'll point out you can find answers to almost anything if you search, but asking is often easier than figuring out what search terms to use.  You can also overload on information here since just about everything you can imagine gets discussed repeatedly.

 

I hope this helps you, and feel free to start your own threads, too.  The WIP forum is really nice for getting feedback and learning from what others have done.

 

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My sister sent me a box with about 20 little tins of Humbrol enamel. I remember using these to paint lead & pewter Starguard minis in the late 70s! A nice selection of colors.

 

Are these of any use painting Bones that would otherwise be getting hit with acrylics?

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Enamels: They might be good over a solid primer and basecoat, I remember the brights, like oranges, are amazing, and also they can be diluted to a wash for weathering... I think historicals guys do this a lot? But I wouldn't put them directly on Bonesium, and I WOULD test first!

 

EDIT TO ADD: to expand on the "oils and enamels versus acrylics" point made by DS, below, if you paint over acrylics before they're fully cured, with an enamel, the acrylic can heat up and boil itself. Also the moisture can just shmutz up the enamels no end. Enamels cure super-slow, so the most likely mistake there is to stick a brush into them when your acrylic-trained intuition tells you they're "dry", and cause a profound poopening of your paint job.

 

I give em 24 hours minimum between switching. Also don't share brushes between the two types, it only takes one water-wet brush going into your pot of enamel to wreck it.

Edited by smokingwreckage
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