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Vallejo Water Effects


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Hi guys. I have been lurking in the boards for some time and decided to come out of hiding to join you all.

 

Has anyone used the Water Effects from Vallejo yet?

 

If you have, any advice on using it?

 

I just got my shipment of "clear water effects" and am going to try it soon but was wondering if anyone had any results with this yet.

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

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Hi guys. I have been lurking in the boards for some time and decided to come out of hiding to join you all.

 

Has anyone used the Water Effects from Vallejo yet?

 

If you have, any advice on using it?

 

I just got my shipment of "clear water effects" and am going to try it soon but was wondering if anyone had any results with this yet.

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

Wish I could be of help.. but i have not used the Vellejo water effects as of yet.. but when I do if I do I can report how good it is here if you like ;)

-j

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The water effects (Vallejo, Woodland Scenics...) are just acrylic resin with a thickener added to make them a bit easier to form things with and more gel like. I've used a number of them over the years and have come to the conclusion that none are really better than hardware store acrylics (which you can buy three to four times as much for half the price). For flat water, clear polyurethane works great...again, hardware store variety is the same as products like Valejo Still Water.

 

Anywho - With the water effects I'll normally work on a teflon work mat I have. I can go ahead and get everything prepped how I want it, than once it dries it pops right off and I can add it to a base or piece of terrain quite easily. You can play around with different dies in the mix in order to create odd ball fluids (lava, toxic sludge, pristine blue stream...). If you want to do any form of geyser or similiar component, you can use thin wire as an armature and drip the gel down from the top. Watch closely for it to congeal a bit more and than work it into shape when it is about jello consistancy. It will stay in place than and makes pretty good geysers - as well as oozes and slimes too.

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Wanted to try it so Friday night had a chance for a quick experiment. Took about a 1 to 2 inch in diameter plastic bottle cap (half an inch deep). Waterdowned some Elmers wood glue and then added woodland scenic ballast. Also added two rocks from the garden one so that it would be sticking outside of the water another to give some diversity to the scenery and 4 small twigs sticking straight out of the edge. Again, this was as an experiment to see how the water-effects (WE) would turnout and was not looking to make anything pretty.

 

I have the transparent WE one. Vallego also makes some colored one. Joe is correct that is is a jelly type of material. It is white instead of transparent. No instructions on the bottle other than a descrpition of what it is suppose to do (dry to a clear finish).

 

After I had set up the scenery and made sure the glue dried (about 3 hours later) I added the WE over it. I noticed that it was a bit messy to apply because of the jelly like consistency. To me a pour would have worked much easier as the WE would probably work better for waterfalls, springs and fountains instead of transparent water.

 

Well I checked it this morning and other than some of the top edges the jell is still "white" and not transparent. I am starting to see some faint hints of the bottom but the color still remains a milky white despite being well over 48 hours. It has hardened but there is some slight give to it. The "experiment" is sitting on a desk in the house at room temperature. Maybe it is still curing and someone suggested that I stick it under a lamp to see what happens.

 

I'll keep you guys posted on any changes but so far I am not exactly thrilled with the results. Any advice would still be appreciated however.

 

Thanks

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I do my curing for stuff like this under a 250 watt heat lamp that gets the temperature up to around 150 degrees - generally will dry in under 4 hours for most things. However, when you use heat - the chances of bubbles forming goes up (small pockets of air trapped in the substrate expand and get trapped in the gel). In order to avoid this, I usually seal my substrate with a few coats of clear coat prior to pouring the water stuff.

 

The milkiness will clear up once fully dried, though drying time increases exponentially as the thickness does. Normal 24 hour cure applies to 1/8 inch thick pours. With a 1/2 inch pour you will likely see a clear dry in a week or so.

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Thanks for the advice Joe. Much appreciated. Working with these type of materials to achieve certain effects is all new to me so it is very much welcomed.

 

I have also ordered some EnviroTex Lite pour-on. I have heard some good things about it and people getting good results.

 

Thanks again.

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I've worked a little bit with Woodland Scenics Water Effects but found that the extreme malleability of the stuff annoys me. It's not stiff enough to really sculpt so the best you can do is approximate the shapes you want, and to be honest I've gotten visually better wave results with scenic water bases just sculpting the whole darn thing out of Sculpey--rocks, base, waves, and all! ::): On the other hand, if you're looking for a still pond, a swamp, or a river effect where you pour the liquid resin down the watercourse and you want it to flow around rocks and such and show clear to the bottom, I am a big fan of Woodland Scenics Realistic Water. ::): In all cases I found that, depending on humidity, thickness of the layer, and temperature, they would take twenty-four hours to five days to dry.

 

--Anne

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The water effects (Vallejo, Woodland Scenics...) are just acrylic resin with a thickener added to make them a bit easier to form things with and more gel like. I've used a number of them over the years and have come to the conclusion that none are really better than hardware store acrylics (which you can buy three to four times as much for half the price). For flat water, clear polyurethane works great...again, hardware store variety is the same as products like Valejo Still Water.

 

Anywho - With the water effects I'll normally work on a teflon work mat I have. I can go ahead and get everything prepped how I want it, than once it dries it pops right off and I can add it to a base or piece of terrain quite easily. You can play around with different dies in the mix in order to create odd ball fluids (lava, toxic sludge, pristine blue stream...). If you want to do any form of geyser or similiar component, you can use thin wire as an armature and drip the gel down from the top. Watch closely for it to congeal a bit more and than work it into shape when it is about jello consistancy. It will stay in place than and makes pretty good geysers - as well as oozes and slimes too.

 

Joe,

 

You wouldnt happen to have any of the stuff you use still lying around, and the mood to take some pics examples?

 

Just kinda interested in seeing how you work it. Your description sounds intriguing, in terms of working on a teflon surface instead of within the actual piece that you are gonna place it.

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I do...but can you hold on for...about a month? I am in the process of moving so the vast majority of my stuff is packed up and in boxes (or covered with boxes/bubble wrap...). Once I get settled in I've got a bunch of stuff that I need to get photos of and a handful of projects I want/need to do which I plan to do a photo log of.

 

It is important to remember though that water effects isn't like the scenic water and what not. It is kind of like liquid cement or about that consistancy which you string out and mold for things like water rapids, waves and ripples. There are other products which are meant for actual ponds, puddles and streams that are more liquid and less gel. With those you work in place nine times out of ten (if you want a pond on a piece of terrain...you pour directly on the terrain). If I am doing something like boats or a deep water base though I will use the teflon mat to do my basing using a thickened version of the regular water product. Once it dries I get a clear base which doesn't look nearly as out of place against water terrain features as a painted base generally does.

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It is important to remember though that water effects isn't like the scenic water and what not. It is kind of like liquid cement or about that consistancy which you string out and mold for things like water rapids, waves and ripples. There are other products which are meant for actual ponds, puddles and streams that are more liquid and less gel. With those you work in place nine times out of ten (if you want a pond on a piece of terrain...you pour directly on the terrain). If I am doing something like boats or a deep water base though I will use the teflon mat to do my basing using a thickened version of the regular water product. Once it dries I get a clear base which doesn't look nearly as out of place against water terrain features as a painted base generally does.

 

 

After doing my experiment this makes total sense. I kind of figured a pour would have worked much better in these circumstances (e.g. setting up the terrain and then covering it with the water effects) simply because of its consistency.

 

BTW, the experiment is still curing. I think you were also correct Joe that this will take about a week in order to clear up. Live an learn I guess. ::D:

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