Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I've seen the cracking problem, just recently too. In this case I believe it was because I'd used an enamel primer (for the first time). I've never had problems over acrylic primers but two triads (I can't remember which ones now but they were all browns) had massive cracking issues over the enamel.

 

I agree that it's not the paints themselves that had the problem cause I've used them for months (nearly a year) and have never seen that behaviour in any of the triads until now.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I've had crazing/crackling problems as well. But I think I know the problem

 

Reaper paints have retarder. When you paint a thinned layer of paint over a thicker layer, the thicker layer isn't entirely dry. The thinned paint will dry faster because it has less retarder in it. The underlayer appears dry, but it isn't 100% dry.

 

So you get a oil paint like crackle, because you're painting lean over fat. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

This tip came from Laszlo at this past RAC.

 

For any separating, one thing I've found that helps is to use an acrylic thinner. The one I found is by Delta Ceramcoat, got it at Michael's. It's usually more of a problem with VMCs, but my MSP Blackened Brown separates like Vallejo SS Black Brown, with a kind of orange coming to the top and has to be stirred pretty frequently. The Acrylic Thinner really helps that not to happen so much.

 

But don't lick your brush with this stuff in it, it'll burn your lips.

 

I've also found that the more flow improver you use the more the paint will separate on your pallette. Again not normally a problem with the MSPs I've used, but occasionally.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The MSP crackling is something I've seen on numerous occasions (with browns, reds, blues, and even flesh), and have talked with Anne about it a couple of times. She says the only time she has seen it was on a humid day when she think she didn't let her primer dry properly before applying paint. Personally, it seems to happen to me when the primer bottle is almost empty, or not shaken enough. I live in a very rainy part of the pacific northwest, and so it wouldn't surprise me if it's moisture in the air also causing problems.

 

/ali

Link to post
Share on other sites
Lots of things can lead to the cracking which are totally unrelated to the paint itself (primer, cleanliness, thickness of paint, thinners used...).

 

Right before I moved up here I bought every color that was out at the time, and although I haven't had a chance to paint a whole lot of minis with them, I did go ahead and paint my index (behind each bottle I have a paint chip for that color that way I can see what it looks like dry). They all were great right out of the bottle.

THe only problem I have had with my MSP's is that the dropper part of the bottle always seems to clog on me and I am constantly trying to unclog them. Eastman does not seem to have this problem with his though... any ideas as to what is causing this in my MSP's?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Lots of things can lead to the cracking which are totally unrelated to the paint itself (primer, cleanliness, thickness of paint, thinners used...).

 

Right before I moved up here I bought every color that was out at the time, and although I haven't had a chance to paint a whole lot of minis with them, I did go ahead and paint my index (behind each bottle I have a paint chip for that color that way I can see what it looks like dry). They all were great right out of the bottle.

THe only problem I have had with my MSP's is that the dropper part of the bottle always seems to clog on me and I am constantly trying to unclog them. Eastman does not seem to have this problem with his though... any ideas as to what is causing this in my MSP's?

I have had the same problem and it is annoying. Not all of my MSPs have clogged. It is just a few.

Link to post
Share on other sites
The MSP crackling is something I've seen on numerous occasions (with browns, reds, blues, and even flesh), and have talked with Anne about it a couple of times. She says the only time she has seen it was on a humid day when she think she didn't let her primer dry properly before applying paint. Personally, it seems to happen to me when the primer bottle is almost empty, or not shaken enough. I live in a very rainy part of the pacific northwest, and so it wouldn't surprise me if it's moisture in the air also causing problems.

I kept a set of ceramic heat lamps for this purpose down in Florida (100% humidity on a dry day). Between waiting for paint to dry and other things (water effects on terrain pieces, resin casts...), it just took too long to get a normal air cure. 15 or 20 minutes under a 200 watt heat lamp and almost everything was dry. I even went ahead and hooked it up to one of those timer things that you turn and it *dings* when it goes off so that I could do other things while it dried. You can get the heat lamps at pet stores and the timers at hardware stores - total spent...maybe $20ish. Considering the time it saved it was well worth it IMHO.

 

THe only problem I have had with my MSP's is that the dropper part of the bottle always seems to clog on me and I am constantly trying to unclog them. Eastman does not seem to have this problem with his though... any ideas as to what is causing this in my MSP's?

 

If I had to guess - I would think that maybe it was some bad casting on your particular bottles. If the dropper is too narrow, it will clog up quite quickly. You can ream it out with a small drill bit or a piece of wire heated up (be sure to pop the tip out though...you don't want plastic to fall into the bottle).

Link to post
Share on other sites
If I had to guess - I would think that maybe it was some bad casting on your particular bottles. If the dropper is too narrow, it will clog up quite quickly. You can ream it out with a small drill bit or a piece of wire heated up (be sure to pop the tip out though...you don't want plastic to fall into the bottle).

Thanks that is a good idea.. I might try that.. but.. there is alot more then just a few that do that to me though for some reason, then just a few. We shall see though :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Reaper User

The problem with dropper bottles in general (and this includes Vallejo) is that you're dealing with an aperture that needs to stay very small, so the paint doesn't dry out, and which is vacuum-formed, so mass-produced and thus prone to defective pieces. There's just no way we can go through and test all the of the little dropper tops, so the best I can say is that (after years of using Vallejo and now MSP's) I always keep one of those clay-sculpting tools around that looks like a needle on the end of a dowel (what, maybe 69 cents at Michael's?), or a pin or two, or my handy pin vice, and if I get a bottle that gives me a problem I use my Pokey Thingee <tm> to break the seal. ::): Also make sure that when you're squeezing paint out you're tilting the bottle on its side instead of completely upside-down, as the little skull-shakers inside of the bottle will gleefully fall down to obstruct the flow of paint if given the chance. :;):

 

--Anne

Link to post
Share on other sites
The problem with dropper bottles in general (and this includes Vallejo) is that you're dealing with an aperture that needs to stay very small, so the paint doesn't dry out, and which is vacuum-formed, so mass-produced and thus prone to defective pieces. There's just no way we can go through and test all the of the little dropper tops, so the best I can say is that (after years of using Vallejo and now MSP's) I always keep one of those clay-sculpting tools around that looks like a needle on the end of a dowel (what, maybe 69 cents at Michael's?), or a pin or two, or my handy pin vice, and if I get a bottle that gives me a problem I use my Pokey Thingee <tm> to break the seal. ::): Also make sure that when you're squeezing paint out you're tilting the bottle on its side instead of completely upside-down, as the little skull-shakers inside of the bottle will gleefully fall down to obstruct the flow of paint if given the chance. :;):

 

--Anne

Maybe that is what I was doing.. tipping it upside down. Hmmm thanks Ann :)

You are a Goddess! :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have most of the set, and have ran into some very clumpy colors. Marigold yellow really sticks out. I was going to contact Reaper for replacements but havent been through all my paints so I dont know which of my paints are bad.

 

I bought the majority of my set when the 2nd wave of colors came out, when the rust browns were the last of the set at the time.

 

Just this month added many of the newcolors and havent had problems with them yet but only used a couple so far.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Reaper User
I have most of the set, and have ran into some very clumpy colors. Marigold yellow really sticks out. I was going to contact Reaper for replacements but havent been through all my paints so I dont know which of my paints are bad.

 

I bought the majority of my set when the 2nd wave of colors came out, when the rust browns were the last of the set at the time.

 

Just this month added many of the newcolors and havent had problems with them yet but only used a couple so far.

 

 

Marigold Yellow had real pigmentation/coverage issues when it went out, and has since improved vastly. Pure Black had issues at the beginning as well. Other than that, there were some glossiness issues with a few colors, which we are now fixing once and for all as batches come up to be re-mixed. Can't think of any others off the top of my head that might have been real buggers. ::):

 

--Anne

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Marigold Yellow had real pigmentation/coverage issues when it went out, and has since improved vastly. Pure Black had issues at the beginning as well. Other than that, there were some glossiness issues with a few colors, which we are now fixing once and for all as batches come up to be re-mixed. Can't think of any others off the top of my head that might have been real buggers. ::):

 

--Anne

 

Thank you, does anyone know how to ask Reaper for replacements? Do I just email support?

 

Thank You,

 

-Eric

Link to post
Share on other sites

I read that all the paints which had the labels taped on were the first batch and problomatic. IS this true? Every single paint up to my original metallics have the labels taped on. So far most of those are thick but can be watered down, a few like marigold yellow cant even be watered down to use

Link to post
Share on other sites

The only taped-on label paints I had a problem with was the pure black. It was a little bit grainy. The marigold yellow I keep thinking I should test or ask for a replacement, but I don't usually paint with bright yellow/oranges, so I haven't bothered.

 

I bought the paints on the first batch and haven't had trouble with any of the others.

 

/ali

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...