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02347 : Prince Denethorr


Morgramen
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And here is Denethor! Still fidgiting (mostly trial & error) with the camera and photoshop. This guy has been reduced and sharpened in Photoshop. THe only lighting was one of those "articulated arm" lamps with a standard GE bulb. Can't remember if I had the flash on or not.... anyway, the pic is the best I've done so far, but still not a true representation of the mini itself.

post-93-1137262066.jpg

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And the booty shot. I'm still trying to find a good recipie for shading/highlighting white. I also wanted to add a dragonhead onto his tunic and cape, but freehand is beyond me at the moment. Instead, I went with pigmapen stripes along the bottom of the cloak. (They bled slightly, making a crisp edge on the lines nigh impossible).

 

Trying like a maniac to give up drybrushing, and have been doing highlights & shading exclusively for a few months now. (Just don't get to paint as much as I would like.) I also need to upgrade my paints! I suspect that would help lots. Anyway... on with the booty.

post-93-1137262781.jpg

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And the booty shot. I'm still trying to find a good recipie for shading/highlighting white. I also wanted to add a dragonhead onto his tunic and cape, but freehand is beyond me at the moment. Instead, I went with pigmapen stripes along the bottom of the cloak. (They bled slightly, making a crisp edge on the lines nigh impossible).

 

Trying like a maniac to give up drybrushing, and have been doing highlights & shading exclusively for a few months now. (Just don't get to paint as much as I would like.) I also need to upgrade my paints! I suspect that would help lots. Anyway... on with the booty.

 

White and black are both difficult to shade. White is a bit easier than black though. You have a couple basic options when shading white. You can choose a warm white or a cool white.

 

In my opinion, cool whites look better with cool colors and warm whites better with warm colors. For cool whites I use various shades of grey as a wash to help define the recesses, and mix these greys with white at different ratios to then build up highlights to pure white. Warm whites use the same technique except that a warm brown such as Reaper pro Hawkwood is used as a shade and as a mix with the white.

 

Here is a warm white recipe that I enjoy using:

1) Over a white primed figure paint a thinned down coat of paint which is 50/50 Hawkwood/ white. Usually 2 thinned coats are needed to give good uniform coverage

 

2) After coat 1 is dry paint a highlight coat on all areas except the recesses that is a thin 25/75 mix of Hawkwood / white and allow it to dry.

 

3) I keep a premade mix of Hawkwood glaze that is 2 parts paint, and 8 parts water ( there is a small amount of W&N flow improver in the water) but it can be mixed on the fly in this ratio. I use this to wash the entire area.

 

4) After the glaze is dry I carefully apply highlights with Hawkwood/ White mixes, changing to pure white for the final highlights. The ratios at this stage are heavily weighted towards more white than Hawkwood because we want the final product to be mostly white.

 

I work cools a litle different. I am at work right now. I will post a recipe for doing cool whites sometime later ::D:

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Look at you go Morg! Let me say his eyes look REALLY COOL. However, you need to give more depth to some areas of this piece. The metals look a bit flat as well, but still you've got the right idea. Keep working on it. Look forward to seeing you work on your skills and share more pics with us.

 

Rock on Brother Morg!

 

SK

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Thanks for the comments (and recipie!) guys. I must say that the pics I uploaded do bring out the mistakes and blotches, and such! (Rather like looking at a drawing in the mirror!) ::):

 

One of these times, I'll pull off a Stern, Kelcore, Jester, and the like! My problem though, is that when the mini is on the end of your nose, it looks shaded/highlighted, but when you put it on the table and look, those layers tend to disappear. I assume it's because I'm not using a strong enough contrast between each layer? On the armor here for example, I should have shaded darker and highlighted lighter. (It just looks sort of... fake and cartoony IMO when your eyes are 1/2" away.) :huh:

 

Hehehe.... I must also learn the Stern Base Fu, but baby steps I suppose. :rolleyes:

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