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Questions: Airbrishing Master Series Paints


Mr.Wizard
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Question One: Thinning and media

I presume Liquitex Airbrush Medium would work for these paints. Has anyone tried this? Also, has anyone tried airbrushing with the reaper flow aid and retarder? I would think retarder would come in handy to reduce tip drying.

 

Question Two: Metallics

Are the mica(?) particles in the metallic paints fine enough to pass through an airbrush? Do I need to worry about the particles eroding my needle? Would an external mix airbrush be preferable for the metallic paints?

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I know that Jester just uses Windex to thin his MSP's down to airbrushable consistancy; I have no idea how the Liquitex product would work, as I haven't tested it. We here at Reaper use Windex when we airbrush with the MSP's. The formula for the Windex would be between a 2:1 and 3:1 paint to Windex depending on the paint's own consistancy (some pigment mixes produce a thicker paint).

 

Reaper produces a Flow Improver, but does not currently produce a retarder. The retarder is due out toward the end of the year. All of the Master Series Paints contain flow improver already, but you could add more if you wished. ::):

 

I am unsure about the effects of mica on the airbrush, but if you can airbrush with other metallics you should be able to do so with ours. The mica is such fine particulate matter it actually "drifts" in the air when agitated. I would test it on a cheaper airbrush to be sure. ::):

 

--Anne

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Thanks Vaitalla and Spatula for the replies. I'll try the metallics through my beater Paasche before using the nice new Iwata.

 

Flynn, windex does not appear to alter the color of the paint being sprayed. My evidence is anecdotal; several of the lads in my model club use windex, with no color changes having been observed.

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Generally Windex works fine for thinning the MSPs for airbrushing. I've used both Golden and Liquitex airbrush mediums in conjunction with the MSPs and the Golden is not preferred in my book, and the Liquitex is slightly better... If you really need to add a small amount, then try the Liquitex... :devil:

 

Usually I go thru it so fast I don't worry about it drying in the airbrush...

 

As for the blue coloration, Flynn, it doesn't transfer over to the paint. I'm not a chemist, but in all the paints I've used Windex to thin with over the last five years - Gunze, Vallejos, MSPs, craft paints - I've never had a blue tint to even the whites.

 

I use Iwata airbrushes, and to paint the MSPs, I've found that since they do have a bit of a heavier body to them a larger needled airbrush is preferred... even when shooting the metallics. I use the Revolution CR with a .5 needle for the majority of the work, but if I need detailed work now, and am using MSPs, I'll switch over to my HP-C and thin at 1:1. ::D:

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I followed Jester's advice, and have been using Windex to thing both VGC and RMS paints for a while now. No tint change at all (that I've noticed).

 

The only shade that I've yet to spray with windex is yellow, but I figure if it doesn't tint the white then it won't mess with that either.

 

Coverage is pretty nice (comparable to the VJ Airbrush paint that I tried, so I don't bother buying them any more).

 

paint_01.jpg

Was basecoated with mix of Master Series "Midnight Blue" and "Sapphire Blue" and Windex.

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